In Fashion: Culture, Commerce, Craft, and Identity PDF
Preview In Fashion: Culture, Commerce, Craft, and Identity
In Fashion: Culture, Commerce, Craft, and Identity At the Interface/ Probing the Boundaries Founding Editor Rob Fisher (Progressive Connexions) Advisory Board Peter Bray (University of Auckland) Robert Butler (Elmhurst College) Ioana Cartarescu (Independent Scholar) Seán Moran (Waterford Institute of Technology) Stephen Morris (Independent Scholar) John Parry (Lewis & Clark College) Natalia Kaloh Vid (University of Maribor) volume 135 The titles published in this series are listed at brill.com/ aipb In Fashion: Culture, Commerce, Craft, and Identity Edited by Jacque Lynn Foltyn and Laura Petican LEIDEN | BOSTON Cover illustration: Woman at the River, Eden, VT, 2014, by Jennifer Garza- Cuen. Image used with permission by the artist. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Foltyn, Jacque Lynn, editor. | Petican, Laura, 1972- editor. Title: In fashion : culture, commerce, craft, and identity / edited by Jacque Lynn Foltyn and Laura Petican. Other titles: In fashion (Brill Rodopi (Firm)) Description: Leiden ; Boston : Brill/Rodopi, 2022. | Series: At the interface / probing the boundaries, 1570-7113 ; volume 135 | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2021012436 (print) | LCCN 2021012437 (ebook) | ISBN 9789004446588 (paperback) | ISBN 9789004446595 (ebook) Subjects: LCSH: Fashion–Social aspects. | Fashion merchandising. | Advertising–Fashion. | Fashion design. | Clothing trade. Classification: LCC GT525 .I6 2022 (print) | LCC GT525 (ebook) | DDC 391–dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021012436 LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021012437 Typeface for the Latin, Greek, and Cyrillic scripts: “Brill”. See and download: brill.com/b rill- typeface. issn 1570-7 113 isbn 978-9 0-0 4-4 4658-8 (paperback) isbn 978-9 0-0 4-4 4659-5 (e- book) Copyright 2022 by Koninklijke Brill NV, Leiden, The Netherlands. Koninklijke Brill nv incorporates the imprints Brill, Brill Nijhoff, Brill Hotei, Brill Schöningh, Brill Fink, Brill mentis, Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht, Böhlau Verlag and V&R Unipress. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, translated, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission from the publisher. Requests for re- use and/ or translations must be addressed to Koninklijke Brill NV via brill.com or copyright.com. This book is printed on acid- free paper and produced in a sustainable manner. Contents L ist of Illustrations ix N otes on Contributors xii I ntroduction 1 Jacque Lynn Foltyn part 1 Fashioning Representations: Texts, Images, and Performances 1 S ara Gay Model Girl On Fashion Modelling in Four Girls’ Series Books in 1961 15 Erika Lunding 2 F rom the Drawer to the Public Eye Male Nudity in Fashion Photography 44 Leonardo Iuffrida 3 G one Before It Arrived The Legacy of the Nehru Jacket in Contemporary Anglo- American Literature 61 Michael A. Langkjær 4 C onversation with a Japanese Designer comme des garçons 83 Sean Ryan part 2 Fashionable: Shopping, Luxury, Vintage, and Packaging 5 D iscounting Dreams Depravity, Consumption, and Fashion in the Nineteenth-Century Department Store in France 99 Leonard R. Koos 6 T he Luxury, Social Media, and E- Commerce Conundrum How Can Luxury Brands Respond to the Digital World and Remain Exclusive, Aspirational, and Alluring? 113 Deidra Arrington vi Contents 7 F ashionable Vintage The Permeable Boundaries between Vintage Clothing and the Fashion System 133 Sarah Mole 8 F ashionable through Packaging Products with an ‘Exterior Shell’ 163 Cecilia Winterhalter part 3 Fashion’s Materials: Craft, Industry, and Innovation 9 T he Case of Fish Skin A Historical Material Assimilated as an Innovative Sustainable Material for Fashion 185 Katrín María Káradóttir and Elisa Palomino 10 T he Future of Customised Garment Fit 200 Antonia Glücksman 11 M aker and Merchant Identifying the Support Needs of New Fashion Business Models Emerging on the Margins of the Fashion Industry 212 Hilde Heim part 4 Museum Worthy: Fashion and the Archive 12 S tarched White Caps and Aprons Child Nurses’ and Nannies’ Dress in Fashion, Uniform, and Costume, 1850– 2015 237 Patricia Hunt- Hurst and Charlotte J. Headrick 13 M aterial Objects and the Fashion Imaginary The Multiple Lives of a Lobster Dress 265 Claire Eldred Contents vii 14 L ooking Back to Look Forward Lessons from the Archives? 284 Clare Rose part 5 Fashioning Cultural Identities: Case Studies 15 T hree Wedding Dresses Worn by Turkish Cypriots, and Their Stories 303 Noly Moyssi 16 A n Analysis of Japanese Fashion in Australian Print Media (Re)presentations in Newspapers and Fashion Magazines 324 Tets Kimura 17 F ashioning Indian Identity with Khadi Denim 338 Banhi Jha 18 F ashioning Identity – A Study from Urban India 349 Usha Narasimhan I ndex 361 Illustrations Figures 1.1 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl, World Distributors, Manchester and London, 1961. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 18 1.2 A FTER PARIS SHOWING – Marc Bohan, designer for the Dior line, is surrounded by models after today’s showing won wide acclaim in Paris. From left are: Kouka, holding her pet Yorkshire terrier, Muriel, Valeria, Laurence and Boly. The models are known only by a single name. 1961 © Erika Lunding 23 1.3 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl in Mayfair, World Distributors, Manchester and London, 1961. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 25 1.4 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl in New York, World Distributors, Manchester and London, 1961. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 30 1.5 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl in Monte Carlo, World Distributors, Manchester and London, 1961. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 35 1.6 D ora Shackell, The Young Girl’s Guide to Intelligent Dressing, Mills & Boon, London, 1960. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 38 1.7 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl series. Dust jacket illustrations, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 39 3.1 T elevision host Johnny Carson (1925–2 005) wore an Oleg Cassini- made Nehru suit with a turtleneck sweater when hosting his Tonight Show in February 1968, thus popularizing it for an American audience. Within a day, retailers throughout the country reported a phenomenal increase in Nehru suit and jacket sales. © Getty Images 63 3.2 B y 1969 the Nehru jacket was being ridiculed, as witnessed by Graham Round’s drawing for an article by Mordecai Richler satirizing with- it- professors “proudly wearing a Nehru jacket” at the height of the contemporary youth rebellion. Source: Saturday Night, Feb. 1969, p. 45. © Graham Round 65 7.1 M oschino – Runway – Milan Fashion Week Fall/ Winter 2018/ 19 © Photo by Victor virgile/ Gamma- Rapho via Getty Images 142 7.2 C alvin Klein Collection – Runway – September 2017 – New York Fashion Week © Photo by Victor virgile/ Gamma- Rapho via Getty Images 146 9.1 S almon Fish Skins at Atlantic Leather Tannery © 2019, Avigail Reiner 189
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