In memory of Chef Paul Haeberlin, L’Auberge de L’Ill, France And to my parents, Yvonne and Henri Keller “Memory is essential to what we are. We wouldn’t be able to talk to each other without memory, and what we think of as the present really is the past. It is made out of the past....The past is always one moment that happened three minutes ago, and one moment is what happened thirty years ago—and they flow into each other in ways we can’t predict....The idea that memory is somehow sentimental or nostalgic—nostalgia itself, the etymology of nostalgia is ‘homecoming.’ And homecoming is what we all believe in.” —The poet W. S. Merwin in a Fresh Air interview with host Terry Gross, aired when his book The Shadow of Sirius won the Pulitzer Prize in 2009. A note about the recipes ♣ You will find weights included as well as volume measures for ingredients in some of my recipes. I’ve done this for several reasons. First, I think we often buy ingredients by the pound and it’s helpful for a shopper to have some idea of what I mean, for instance, by a large onion. A second reason is that many of these recipes originate in professional kitchens where, if we measure at all, we most often weigh our ingredients. Another reason is the origin of some recipes. In Europe, even home cooks are in the habit of weighing ingredients. Especially in baking, precision is important; weights are more accurate than volume measurements and you will enjoy more consistent results if you weigh. Plus, it’s faster and less messy. Often, you can place your mixing bowl on the scale and simply add the ingredients directly instead of stopping to measure first. I encourage you, if you don’t have one already, to invest in a digital scale and to leave it out on your counter so you get in the habit of using it. Introduction C H A P T E R 1 Family Treasures Sunday Lunch in Ribeauvillé R E C I P E S Celery Root, Apple, and Walnut Salad Grandma’s Light Mayonnaise Pot-au-Feu with Marrow Dumplings Carrot Salad with Alsatian Vinaigrette Salade Vigneronne Mendiant/Henri’s Bread Pudding Stuffed Eggs with Smoked Salmon Pâtisserie Keller Kugelhopf Savory Kugelhopf Buns with Bacon, Onion, and Walnuts Baeckeoffe/Laundry Day Stew of Beef, Pork, and Lamb Rabbit in Mustard Sauce Bretzels Fleischschneke/Pasta Roulade Henri’s Breakfast Cake Spirited Sour Cherries Grandma’s Omelet Soufflé Meringues Glacées and Meringues Chantilly
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