How to Use, Adapt, and Design Knitting Patterns: How to knit exactly what you want, every time—with confidence!

145 Pages·2010·18.58 MB·English

by  Sam Elliott

How to Use, Adapt and Design
Knitting Patterns
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How to Use, Adapt and Design
Knitting Patterns
Sam Elliott and Sidney Bryan
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Conceived, designed and produced by:
Published in 2010 by
Quarto Publishing plc
A&C Black Publishers
The Old Brewery
36 Soho Square
6 Blundell Street
London W1D 3QY
London N7 9BH
www.acblack.com
Senior editor: Lindsay Kaubi
ISBN 978-1-408-12761-2
Technical editor: Betty Barnden
Copy editor: Claire Waite Brown
Copyright © 2010 Quarto plc
Art editor and designer: Julie Francis
Art director: Caroline Guest
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may
Design assistant: Saffron Stocker
be reproduced in any form or by any means –
Photographer: Philip Wilkins
graphic, electronic or mechanical, including
Illustrators: Kuo Kang Chen and
photocopying, recording, taping, information
Terry Evans
storage and retrieval systems – without the prior
Picture researcher: Sarah Bell
permission in writing of the publisher.
Creative director: Moira Clinch
Publisher: Paul Carslake
A CIP record for this book is available from the
British Library.
Colour separation in Singapore by PICA
Digital Pte Ltd
QUAR.KNP Printed in Singapore by Star Standard
Industries (PTE) Ltd
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
Introduction 6 PART 3: How to adapt the pattern 62
About this book 8
Changing necklines 64
PART 1: Using knitting patterns 10 Design options: Necklines 64
Necklines: Adapting the toile 66
All about knitting patterns 12
Necklines: Adapting the paper pattern 68
Sources of patterns 12
Necklines: Adapting the written pattern 70
Anatomy of a knitting pattern 14
Design details: Necklines 72
Common abbreviations 16
Shaping shoulders 74
Common symbols 17
Changing sleeves 76
The importance of tension 18
Design options: Sleeves 76
Why make a tension swatch? 18
Sleeves: Adapting the toile 78
Making and measuring a tension swatch 20
Sleeves: Adapting the paper pattern 80
How needle size and yarn affect tension 22
Sleeves: Adapting the written pattern 82
Your measurements 26
Design details: Sleeves 84
Collecting measurements 26
Changing body shapes 88
Design options: Body shape 88
PART 2: Designing patterns from scratch 28
Body shape: Adapting the toile 90
Body shape: Adapting the written pattern 92
Making a pattern from an existing garment 30
Design details: Body shapes 94
Measuring an existing garment 30
Using stitches 98
Converting the measurements 34
New stitch tension swatches 98
Making a paper pattern 36
Allover textures 100
Calculating shaping 38
Shaping with stitches 104
Making and fitting a toile 42
How to alter a toile 46
PART 4: Embellishments 106
Altering the patterns 48
Rewriting the instructions 52
Embroidery 108
Constructing the garment 58
Appliqué 112
Blocking and seaming 58
Trims and fastenings 114
Pom-poms, tassels and fringes 116
Adding beads and sequins to knitting 118
PART 5: Basic knitting know-how 120
Choosing a yarn 122
Materials and equipment 124
Essential techniques 128
Useful information and resources 136
Web resources 137
Glossary 138
Index 140
Credits 144
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6
Introduction
Sid and I have been knitting both individually and as a team for the last 14 years; knitting is a passion that
has grown alongside our friendship. We met at university and we both chose to specialize in constructed
textile design, otherwise known as knitting. After graduation Sid continued his studies at the Royal
College of Art in London and I started a design business selling knitted fashion swatches in Europe,
Japan and the USA. Our careers have developed in different ways, teaching at highly
regarded English universities, and working with some of the most compelling
contemporary fashion designers currently practising. Through the years
we have continued to share a design studio, and a love for
progressive knitwear. We now work together on creative design
projects, alongside Sid’s successful menswear line.

Through discussion and practice we identified a real need
for a knitting book that included techniques and methods
to assist and support design and creativity in knitwear,
enabling the reader to use, adapt and design their
own knitting patterns. It was important to us that the
book be written in a language that could be easily
understood, allowing the reader to familiarize
him or herself with the ‘code’ that is embedded
in the world of knitting books.

The book combines both knitting and dressmaking methods in a practical and
efficient way to inform and develop the skills needed to design an original knitted
garment. The reader is guided through the process of creating and fitting a toile, a
method that is frequently used in dressmaking but often overlooked by knitters. The
benefits of creating a toile are that elements of the design can be checked before
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I n t r o d u c t i o n 7
time is spent on writing a pattern and knitting large pieces, alleviating a disappointing
outcome relating to fit or style and wasted expense. Designs are often changed at toile
stage, because we’re able to consider how the knitted fabric, choice of yarn and stitch
will complement the silhouette. The extra time spent at the planning stages helps to
ensure a successful and considered garment.
The reader is introduced methodically to the processes involved in
using, adapting and designing a knitted garment from scratch.
Useful tools such as charts and blank patterns that the reader
can use to develop original knitting patterns support each
process. The text is illustrated with step-by-step
photography to make the techniques clear, and
handy hints relating to each section help
readers as they work through the design
process and pattern-writing process.

Throughout the book, creative
knitwear designed and made by Sid and
me has been photographed and included,
demonstrating the enormous range of
possibilities of knitwear design, with the hope
that this will inspire readers to create their own
unique designs with confidence.
&
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8
About this book
Sources of patterns 13
ALL ABOUT KNITTING PATTERNS
Design your own knitting Knitting patterns are available from a number of different
sources, but all tend to use the same language. Here, we
explain how to get hold of a pattern and what to do with it
once you have it.
pattern from scratch or adapt
an existing pattern to get
exactly what you want. OThnelrien ea rseo au rncuemsber of pattern sites that fmasahgiaozni njoeusr nfoarl sfr eaen dp astpteercnias liaznedd kknniittttiinngg
are easily accessible online. Knitting has projects; they can be great for getting
become very social, and knitters are ideas on new ways to use knitting.
This book guides you through SpTohboaetarueitn ta rearce kr enani tsvstian rogie ptfya ottfe wrna.ys to hpsbpbMwaaereoa fptaovtbgepperlraeeyr nhy m ztys ioinho ns ttehub,es la ol psosotrftg nuatihn lra yte i afonay yrrd ndhop .peaur Toro v ahjesteorit sec c f ct oei.enh emxfedoppcbreklmea rpitcaeeaktndi toact,e nibonr norgc sua tn SMtScfnhoupeherasee oisntrcdopo yiolameus wclsri rscy naatia n fsnltrig hnnds oehsv, .psioi nf C spotya hsofo g apufatere aria tentpytr eaenshr tohanltuewovscrpe n kad ssyun e, cn davyau enaynsldrao unb rpba.ne iolns go.g rk esa, t
With the surge of interest in craft Vintage patterns knitted in modern types
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are lots of publications to help you.
then goes on to explain how to There has also been a huge
resurgence in the knitting circle,
with knitting clubs and groups
mscaraktec hy.o Yuor uo’lwl lne akrnni tthinogw ptoa tatedran pfrt oam eTefineoxxfl lipokosrentwmirniti e gakcn ntabicointoetn et,n h rawos ng whadloe n brbtdeeea c sylahlhyo n asuaiorq neccuda iea nlslo .m caelelyt. SWFoiEnneE dp bA ao LrguSeetOs ao1b3uo7rc.uet suseful websites Ipno rpeucleanritty y, emaarsk iknngi tktinnigtt igngro au psso chiaavl ee vseonatr ethda itn
can take place anywhere.
pattern, whether it be the sleeves,
neckline or body shape, and you’ll Using knitting patterns (10–27)
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discover how you can embellish your This section of the book is a guide to
knitted pieces using stitch patterns, using commercial knitting patterns,
trims, embroidery and more. discussing everything from where
to buy a pattern, right down to how
to create and use a tension swatch.
3344 Designing patterns from scratch Converting the measurements 3355
You’ll also find out about reading
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Shape sleeve head Repeat these 5 rows, 3 more times.
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Designing patterns from scratch Keep a note of the changes you make
to the toile because you will need to
adjust your paper pattern to match.
(28–61) Twhreit tepna ppeart tpearntt,e arnn dw tihll ein kfonritmte dth pei ece
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take initial measurements; convert
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finally, assemble the garment.
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KNP p006-009UK_.indd 8 8/11/10 9:10:11 PM
A b o u t t h i s b o o k 9
Design options: Sleeves 77
Set in Cap Batwing
This classic This neat short A classic shape that
shape sits neatly sleeve works works well for both day
CHANGING SLEEVES on the shoulder well for a and evening styles, this
and may be a summer sleeve is knitted integrally
Choosing a sleeve design for your garment can be as simple sshleoervt eo.r I tl oisn ga gtoapr mdeesnitg, noer do nto a winittehr ethsetin bgo edfyfe; scotsm cea n
alwesna gcy,ht hiat, n iwsg iiimdntgph otahrneta dlne ttnh tgeht ahwt, aioty rw iato sirs kc aso tmwtaipcthlhe etxhd ae t sor e ctshhtae on bfg otihndegy . g tEhaietrhm seher antp, e, stkhtroinaam-ivnwttpisenolldegark tssae sth nilitaenc epehtoaev, se tthy oc-e a p and armhole. bjbusatseeicti cnkwahegdo,t .dart rnDe idm deuit fmnabfediyilrn eecgrna atnt h e edge with a bsTftoihined eic sea ohwscnelheatdrieyeo vswvle etfih rtdihose m b anfyu orc lkrilubnmnfbefiat settilosdnly. g c c uuffff. How to adapt the pattern (62–105)
and suits the purpose of the piece you are making. Ocaftsehnm uesreed g ianr lmigehntwtse, itghhet soimr plicity dorif fweritehn lta sctyit chho olers t.i pItp cianng aolfs coo bloeu r,
cfaasnh iboen ehdig shhliagphtinegd owri twh iftuhl la- contrast ubsaeladn ocen aa nc oemvepnliincagt egda rnmeecknlti ntoe . Learn to adapt patterns to suit your
stitch at the seams to add design
innotevircees tk. nTihttiesr ,s hoar pfoer ias ggaoormd efonrt wthieth tastes and body shape. Patterns
DSAsgoHtamahahlad paeseabsalvar itertakeemeewi pmoiylv natipaoseneisegnenlu elssc agcnil yv o meg soatccvym ,leuaaaio easnsnrpreuy rn ioteys lcevrhi w cohe tfapcyeauu,oaoa d otiraloinerctl dnytn fdtedpe p. sdset, rio nlrinn stedtaw rei.utegyi eecchWs ovnkttrreeeo.il he ci n y nnIwteafsa yo eunyctphl,u s s oh eetuuirouinsne: ss g ve eae , CWaislsgislCTgsasrnetiaghlh lllcaalhheeeewncshgehocrreeeelooogeummlei tualvvvvw oootlndstlh eeeenhdeevbss sie.; . ane nne ii ewswicnnWttCggrd tthoo oa sokggioh awwa htlanlnauhten tlphpe ttiis il ellsystvhhtdenllyveiti iadiveenoalbbdee shenemrerdgk reee nyo iloirrre n bce r a .iiiuywars nggh;actonmo keyhfld.ophhowfiuo u tnoeFoarwt rttdtreoa;ogrcn fl tlsoe l ptbpnr e ,ysa(eh yc noa rpdalinsndobaenaalrtee yngd uteepsccpseb dtdt utvtre hawrheykih s enflncsaw ennelf the.h;h,hlpt i c het eePrloyoteeeoeanaeovnoiu, n)rcgegd t cu s l eoagtdf;lhyst h ua h,fi hteaisno cehlbnytslahrra hi ,ol,c;;na evo epbeuc e r au t o tp f ; RlTsagwdusitmfafleanehioehiptasroe tatfhserrcomsneeteoccomap oe vgd sdrhrsgidghirenmnet lrl alse peoleamtio atasanwpogpehealdntlsenn hee rlvlverc idaiaa, ncegetene /aas n acagsovratl sflsro. tae ne tu-.flairsuwea soelm dOtllnlatidehnosvlino ld fele ieeetwl tgs n ee nuv b w gsemdnanetse sca eo e f a,okcmr r ylmkrki nislebriee nraewno.es tres .e – hilTml oahrinifapge ge hbtdeoto s patth o noo daff BTshdlefgwgwiwonahlxaieaeehoio sbticansrsehterkrlemi nt lniv, nalilcs dinye.caeg s rttwv Ttsnnhe haisehvowtdithrepel rwifelsi ayi es nts ehp .stgiiehegn a hgpt eco ttrtaonns, laorte as ybaersnt DsTsrciawwfltiswstnenyouehhallh eepnaeht -lrnliaelnaawsee ooelgeyularp x vvssrbtprepusminheeeeena. lera oedldp. a I eybd itwwrbfesI ost eetswaeyol e v iinorvhclliadndetlln or e oahooord dh rrink nrwfkrn ayar t. , as fv boaa peoenne la cdk oey n crw lie yatctahgesoeraudtntnan o,i tlnnw,tly h ea,ote halr lek se y-d LmrTsbiieruttcinnnhhiihloxebpeebttteeinteoou segen eftbrs sro vtnktp a doilhetue denodrtsiome ssheeediiicftnli tnet rv y niaa ebtn ge hc/ghnredyc mleou t cl tohpbi wavfhcelonfeapuo wm gi.fln ef,Y u.okcnuhi t w etoiall s cneoe mwedpill l etgotoe nwtpainheapiceletpll tutdesloidherninildo'nets w g,b.t op Teny ah aoesepncueseky te hr liip nnopca ewhasrsattt ot, ye nonsorgfheu nteo h s–csu eaa ltc dhnngaei dasner r sawcmb,hs erseiail tlyntepe taet,ne vd rea sp t
Ttdohr aeum sdeae tasicing gneaexrram goegf nethtr.ai sTt ehcdea tbkwinsaihtlktoe ppd i esfaclebeer vihcea gso anct hhteohrissse n asecthiol meahmmnipgp lehfeliengl ynmth sedt e ctefhnoksatlrii g ntea necateot.c ednAhn t istrmoialote hsntetoe. var eu nr,sa dpet hi cekr a bdSrsutoeeiftTmltfclehl;eh erel; me d tpsgueihon rtoanasefsp di lumi e bopb iurol;yi ttr fdti hoeotrholsanl e w;wef opds strulhgt ertfeeihefne .evcgde u;c fauiefs nfl iafsod is fn dttbeicecanlisuzt iwdegednin ;er gidb. .; and body shapes.
elegantly at the wrist, and works well with the
choice of lightweight yarn.
SDSeEexeEeas mAipgLapnSglO edeses o t8af 4ivl–as8:r i7So lufeoser svklenesiettveed t ypes.
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108 Embellishments Embroidery 109
Embroidery You will need Freestyle Swiss darning
Embroidered embellishments can add interest •• KEmnibtterodi dgearrym heonotp o (ro spatimonpalel) Smwixis os f dyaarrnnisn go nc aan f ibnee dknointtee dw bitha sae .
and texture to your knitted garments. •• BYalurnnt, ytharrena nde oerd rliebbon Tvherey efrmeeb rwoiadye, rwy ictha nth bee s utitscehde sin a
Ekmnitbterodi dsetirtcyh c,a onr bae s iunsgeled maso atifn c aalnl- odvrearw d aesttiegnnt itoon e tnoh oannec ea rae a of • Sharp scissors being carried up and to the side.
a garment, and can work well with other types of embellishment
such as beads or sequins. Necklines and cuffs, in particular, can
be highlighted and enhanced by the use of embroidery.
The demonstrations featured here will introduce you to
some of the basic stitches that you may want to use on
your own designs. Note the unusual placement of
Embellishments (106–119) SSstwwruiiscsstsu drdeaa ronrnfi naing kg (nailtsteod k sntoitwchn. Iat sis d buepslitc uastee ds tfiotcrh o) uetxliancet ldy ecsoipginess the tthoe t heem bbarockid oerf yt,h aed gdainrmg einntte.rest
because large areas of duplicate stitch can thicken the knitted
fabric, making it less flexible.
Once mastered, Swiss darning can be used to great effect,
Learn how to embellish your garments atencdh nciaqnu ere wphlaecne uinsteadrs wiai tohr d Fiaffier rIesnlet. wIt eciagnh tbs eo ra t evextruy rderda ymaarntisc. Using a graphed image
Here duplicate stitch has been used to create an
using stitch patterns, embroidery, ibmy acghea rwtinitgh inth teh ed eksnigittneedd s itmitcahg. eTh oisn tios bgeraspt ha cphaiepveerd.
In this example each stitch is represented by one
square on the graph paper.
appliqué, trims and fastenings,
pom-poms and fringes, and beads
and sequins. 1 Bring the needle out at the base of the 2 Insert the needle again at the base
knitted stitch to be duplicated. Pass the of the same knitted stitch where it first
needle behind the two ‘legs’ of the stitch emerged, and bring it out at the base of
above. Pull through. the next knitted stitch to be duplicated.
Here, a line of Swiss darning is being
worked from right to left. Repeat as
required, counting the stitches carefully.
Et1cdtehr1meciess2hab i)gsnt rewwoniq i etedouhraeeneetrs eytcs hr (.toasermien kfedirbn o pgianna peth gpdooel ifrqt soue é TTsSkflhtneaoiteimtnct t ahiesennefi gfokdse n incmenitt n tawaeisstrnucissl lhr euefb imtne ehthd sbema r itotteo ihtndrheesee liprr oysefn tuaih tlloc oitshfoo teti phcps el tiafdo kct ohnke eein tte tohinpte g it.
pull too tight.
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128 Basic knitting know-how Ends Essential techniques 129
The end of yarn left after casting on should be a reasonable length
SEIaaafl mlniypls doktbhsn umioet’erit oeainu nyafsbo tenrsim teaeitwacvlhet i koentnsn eei.t ytnceooru,hu ygnonheu eit oqwd aitulolt tfi e egnmedstp hst teamrreot erde LTksadbcboohnofaeet le hiirnotstvnhrituen g eeaucrrddd- tays c t i stehituahen tcaisse ndiaealn g gamfnlgcuo e oeaolnbs f sftgiefsloin..if kt.rEuEag - eUnncs ols oededsaenvedss a ne rlalfmreeeooi nffberw tt o glsdwwur eu olnhhrewpotfie- l iewapgnnim o gn awaeip dnr onuntet erdpeeprk .rfdwi oer nT osnct ghacttd e iitopotahu clnes oehmcassu e.wt,morr ss yrtieui o sfna cnaajeohngprei e napdes eslibllideda eeae s sftiw ot natetriok crn sw d dhdthaa oacerrurna dnelind nen gdadb l eiislnne o. f t KCnftkwshefseeieotnveohniinetleemgelcolidls tnp ehdnoim eio n sr lesti. epnatt gofee iCisrm ntks dot ctotehtigho nd ohnt ecee oi uv httow r (i iycnyskaonmtawhea u)lgrodr iofroicg onfsn eu hutra tt,hv –nht esiaraeet de tv tbernn the oyhhrylldareay wro as o t.wrmu– tnsnuiTist ra od cyago ,ayl ho iyhftnt o.ubtyk ld eo ne u it 1fMrii rgIsanhtks tes ei tnrsittt ucotrhh ete h o ietrn i gg ftrhohoteen sn tl eeforfetofd mtnlhee e elie ndsftttloe itt .cot hh e. u2p T aaknidn ga rtohuen yda trhne b reighhintd n, eberdinleg. it STowopspsaSoltpnfaullioi ipi tetprpdprsctlpk weee lhpnioeiaprcn ienidsnwrr ngeaeeas ei edgna). li l snik lcsrTt eatethsineihon ftqettf.ice goiteurithw t c ciw.k(t r atihiehnV ssante ia eeyhstdt wr o teos iy(iomt sitosfcphuliuean1haes na,esr os mylssSwl ri plestii1tot tt h,aihf trbo scooue1hdm tp s ,
or S1p)
Slipping a stitch knitwise causes
it to twist.
Basic knitting know-how (120–135)
3 Using the tip of the right 4 Slip the stitch off the left
needle, draw a loop of yarn needle. There is now a new stitch
through the stitch. on the right needle. Here you’ll find a useful guide to all of the
1CTamofetttihhh hnnn Paaeeesgd.iusk bme Llyle tooorlamtoseooosinrno ppn o etogptch ,.ottf a hahe actptnh , osah.f sde iettedrDlc - isl ppy aohiltupeauk snsfs trlnttlthnte ihoiichet tsetac a et brhotnhnowda ndreouolg le,onft u heedt dtghnehn.l eeh teden w i ebnecoodateaf o lldsle tle-s , antbt2dihga ePphll utnreeolelnn detd hdtu hetlceoe ee. bknsnrd ionstg .o Ttf hitgehh ekt neynoa trt nhu epto t o 1tcntuImnih maenLsaesedeeed tdelar-seetlrov ef tttoint.hn hh hn,Hege ea p to lnanhuyeldnedaetn e,r igane tndth tnga shlaued kl itnm ope hiadnf keb tb nt hu.thoyhoepaeuet wr lt eron leatofn htqreo drtnutephhsdie r.ueje um idns bt 2mlenionne oaUtdepkhds ei teslooe af .wtfc h Cktlaeohnyo sei.bnt e atts ihltntlh uiuteemcen hs dbm,t .iso taPclfik hputi nhpllu geitpnh gy setat o itrtyh cntaehh rt eeno s PHimsonsoosntmtfupfuoio attakbpcrlchokdnlh bok eoik ins ilstt nntiy htsgshiai tigea ttes t ncVa thsm siydhs- ttetcakilii e tidt phnkc(rce penehw iuhxtt). ,or. aak salAp ntcnytpilrhttit dco rteae ooh dsrs npdn.tfu irepftuaAococeocti nhrendpes t g luoi reta eornsanl w dths ea 1fMfir roIsanmtks es er trisigttu chtrhhte et ooi tnr igl getohhftete. s nl eeinfett donl eeth einedt lesot. itthceh l2o oTpak iitn agr othuen dy atrhne troig thhte n feroendtle, . ItsoSoWitnhl nrlisreihp tepSe oe ms ir1 ntottt )ia hfnttarciheeon hes smr p t iarigu tuistgchnhr hhtltiewf.w t i tslniioess efs tetkeel inndpd(sie.pltel e1ei tdipd nal ,et pnoS ud lr1 lwp,i se, batroeasifl rseaei.c s l Tihkshente roitr tfcei now igush rtaasoletso yoloso n aua n’enll s dinns eedmenisadtpita eetolr nik amsnlasiatb taiklneesg aw ell
techniques that serves not only as a great
n3e Leodwlee, rt athkein gtip it oafw thaey rfrigohmt you n4e Sedliple .t hTeh esrteit cish nooffw th ae nleefwt stitch guide for beginners but also as a useful
to draw a loop of yarn through on the right needle.
the stitch.
1oyh oanMun oard nkeleeedf t)na. he Isnaelsndipedlekr n t(a ioftn htyd eow uhoit othahl dreae r t srhnihgiesohe ritdnt- l tea il nTl2ewe fSteo ldn ipsleet eit thidcnelh e ten.hsee w adr iesre tnictoctihwo n oo nsnth otoh tweh ne. left 3bslote oiNttcpwoh)e,we ews ni nr( anstpheoe rttt h ttthwehr oeoy aurprgigrnheh vatti shon eube sees dtfoitlecre h 4lfaersof tSmr enli pqes euttedihrpelee d 3 na. easws s mtsetapitn c2yh. toRimnetpeose tahte CA2lif thss ttiamhiticenph fl eeicrs sak.t*n s siWttt--itosictthfhift c tohhve ec lrae stfhtt -eno esffee.d cKloenn,i td . Twthooe rc kca askstn toi-to ffof fri n rpo puwar lt atsestr itntch,h eseyims w apolloyun ldg Itstnhhliseepe sriritttg iftthrchothe.m ar istgh hieft tlnoeef tpe undrelele idtin laeton od n to go-to source for experienced knitters.
as if to knit, wrap the yarn from and pull through to make Knit the next stitch. Repeat from * occur in the stitch pattern.
the ball anticlockwise around the another stitch. until one stitch remains. Break the
tip and pull the new stitch yarn, take the end through this
through the first loop. stitch and tighten.
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