2.0 The Evolution of Alexandra Palace History & Context 2.6 The Second Palace The park was designed by Alexander McKenzie with an informal approach to planting, the main feature being curved walks through shrubs and trees On 1 May 1875, the second Alexandra Palace was opened. Large crowds stretching out on the grassy slopes below. attended to view the many new features that had been introduced, including three lakes, a circus building in the grounds, a diving tank, trotting ring and bicycle track. The new Palace was ‘not so attractive as its It is perhaps difficult today to imagine the splendour and abundance of pre-decessor. More solid, heavy and functional, it was obviously designed visual, experiential and sensory entertainment that Alexandra Palace had to be less susceptible to fire’. 5 This Palace was of rectangular form, with to offer the general public. It was filled to overflowing with fascinating and a tower at each corner, topped with water tanks holding 16,000 gallons of exotic art and artefacts from around the globe and things to do, eat and water each. It was significantly different in layout to the first Palace; it was watch. The park also provided many entertainments and diverse shows. not open plan, but instead had a series of halls, courts and corridors of For one shilling per day one could be amazed, moved, entertained, varying sizes. These spaces were highly functional as well as assisting in educated and exercised. This was quite an accomplishment and fire proofing. demonstrates the entrepreneurial energy and ambition which came to typify Victorian culture. Externally the building was described as ‘combining the monumental with the festive’.6 White Huntingdon and yellow bricks combined with Portland cement mouldings and red bricks in a polychromatic scheme. The front and back elevations incorporated long ranges of two storey colonnades with central pedimented frontispieces. The four corner towers with lead turrets combined with the monumental glass roofs of the conservatories and the Great Hall to provide a striking roof-scape visible for miles around. Centre stage of the building was the Great Hall, which corresponded to the central transept of the original building and re-used the north and south frontispieces that had survived the fire. The hall was vast in scale, able to seat 12,000 people with a 2,000 person orchestra and a Willis organ powered by two steam engines. A barrel vault roof spanning 85 feet provided the ‘wow’ factor, supported by cast iron columns. Clerestory windows and roof lights were decorated with ornamental glazing and glazing bars. The main vault and aisles were painted with decorative ‘Italian Cinquecento’ designs and statues of the English monarchy. On either side of the Great Hall were courtyards; one roofed and used as a bazaar hall and one open to the elements as an Italian Garden. To the north of these courtyards was, on the east side, a large theatre with elaborate stage machinery and on the west side another concert hall. Centrally, to the far east and west were glass domed conservatories leading from the entrance foyers, the west conservatory was a Palm Court, the east conservatory was an Exhibition Hall. Connecting these spaces were long access corridors that also served as art galleries. Ranged around these principal spaces were lecture rooms, a small theatre, dining, resting and refreshment rooms, library and reading rooms, offices, storage and kitchens etc. An extensive ‘rabbit warren’ basement and first floor space were also in use. The building was heated via a hot water system, and the whole Palace was served by a dedicated branch line reaching a small station located at basement level on the north range. 5 Ron Carrington; Alexandra Park and Palace, a History 6 Building news 1875 7 From Alexandra Park Conservation and Management Plan Plan of Alexandra Palace 1875 published in the Builder page 13 2.0 The Evolution of Alexandra Palace History & Context 2.7 A Slow Decline 2.9 The 1920s Despite the energetic and widely reported efforts of a series of The Trustees quickly resumed an entertainments programme but, as management companies to keep the crowds ‘rolling in’, Alexandra the Great Hall was heavily damaged and unusable, they converted the Palace experienced a slow decline in popularity in the latter years of the East Court into a concert hall. The theatre was refurbished, and the 19th century. Commentators blamed different issues. In particular the programme of works included the addition of escape corridors, tip chairs, theatre was deemed to be a failure, being far too large and acoustically a bar and the decorative scheme seen today. In spite of its refurbishment, inadequate. Others criticised poor catering. But the main problem was the theatre was once again criticised and was eventually leased to Archie the cost of running and maintaining the Palace, especially during the Pitt as a rehearsal space. Roller skating and dances remained popular but low seasons and on weekdays. Such a vast and diverse operation was the condition of the rest of the Palace deteriorated. financially challenging, and it was a simple case of expenses exceeding income. 8 Janet Harris - Alexandra Palace - A Hidden History The Palace was closed for long periods, in particular between 1882-1886 and again 1889-1898. In 1901 the Palace was placed in public ownership under the 1900 Alexandra Park and Palace (Public Purposes Act) supported by a consortium of local authorities who nominated trustees to run the Palace. Various changes and adaptations were deployed in an attempt to increase revenue. These included a roller skating rink in the unused concert hall in 1901 and a cycle track or velodrome was installed in the Great Hall in 1902. The Trustees were again beset with financial problems, particularly so as the Palace was now starting to feel its age and needed repair and refurbishment; ‘from floor to roof the whole Palace is in a discreditable state’. 8 An economic depression accentuated an already troubled situation at the Palace. The arrival of trams to the Palace in 1905 revived fortunes somewhat and in 1907 the unpopular theatre was converted into a successful cinema; the upper balcony was removed and a projection box installed in its place. The period 1910-14 was relatively stable and some debts were paid off. Refurbished theatre 1922 The Great Hall as dormitory WW1 2.8 The Great War In 1914 the Local Government Board requisitioned the building to house Belgian refugees, the Palace being adapted to house 3,000 people in dormitories. In all, some 30,000 refugees passed through the Palace until 1915. From 1916 until the end of the war the Palace was used as an internment camp for prisoners of war. The Palace and part of the park were surrounded by barbed wire and much of the internal space was adapted into dormitories, workspaces, kitchens, laundries etc. In the park, allotments and poultry runs ravaged the neat Edwardian flower beds. After the War, the Palace was used by civil servants until 1922 when the government finally returned Alexandra Palace to the Trustees. The building had become dilapidated and requisition had seriously damaged the internal spaces. Some areas had been heavily adapted and in some cases vandalised (such as the Willis Organ). A protracted negotiation for damages from the government was initiated by the Trustees. The Palace grounds as allotments in World War 1 page 14 2.0 The Evolution of Alexandra Palace History & Context 2.10 The BBC at the Palace In 1934 the Palace entered the next significant phase of its history. With new technology being developed by EMI Marconi and the Baird Company, the government established an investigatory committee into high definition television that became the British Broadcasting Corporation. Television technology at the time required a certain height above sea level, and thus Alexandra Palace was chosen. The Trustees leased the east wing of the building to the BBC who commenced adaptation of the south-east tower into a television transmitter and offices. Studio A and B were carved out of the ‘hotel department’ of the old Palace. On 2 November 1936 television history was made as the first live transmission went out to the few hundred Londoners who owned televisions. From then on, two hours of programming per day continued until the beginning of the Second World War when it ceased for the BBC 1 duration of the war. The late 1930’s are characterised by much activity in the BBC areas of the Palace, juxtaposed against the continual slow May 1939 decline of the rest of the Palace and its entertainment offerings. 2.11 The Second World War and the 1940s Alexandra Palace was again requisitioned by the government during World War II, and became a reception and transit centre for refugees and troops. Along with the expected wear and tear of such a use and the accommodation of so many people again, further damage was wrought by a flying bomb which blew a hole in the Great Hall and damaged the organ. In 1945 the Palace was in a very poor condition; some areas were still under requisition by the government, others lay dormant and derelict. The BBC resumed programming but other uses of the Palace started to fragment. The ‘miserable business’ of damage claims dragged on. Studio A in working order Alexandra Palace, Transmitter Hall, February 1939 page 15 2.0 The Evolution of Alexandra Palace History & Context 2.12 From Bad to Worse The 1950s to the 1970s were the lowest ebb of the Palace’s fortunes. The BBC transmitted some programmes from there until 1956 (eventually moving out entirely in 1981) but otherwise the Palace was largely closed and the fabric of the building deteriorated. Passenger trains ceased in 1954, the race track was decommissioned and the 1865 Grandstand demolished. The Palace was placed under the control of the Greater London Council (GLC) under the terms of the Alexandra Palace and Park Order 1966. The popular roller skating rink (which had been refurbished at expense) was closed due to a dangerous roof in 1974, and the Banqueting Hall in the grounds was destroyed by fire. Due to financial constraints the GLC also took a decision not to initiate a programme of restoration. Even during this time of degeneration, those closest to and responsible for Alexandra Palace were still fighting to keep it going. Some small improvements were made in 1975 and plans to revitalise the Palace’s fortunes were always on the agenda at Trustee meetings. At no point was the Palace ever abandoned, which illustrates just how valued this building is to local communities. In fact, local action groups set up in the 1970’s included the Alexandra Palace Arts Society and the Alexandra Palace Fire 1980 Action Group. In 1980 Haringey Council assumed responsibility for the Palace with an £8.5m ‘dowry’ to help restoration and plans were again initiated to modestly refurbish some areas of the Palace. 2.13 Fire Fire once again consumed the Palace in 1980, reducing over half the building to smouldering ruins. A Development Group was set up and after an 18-month long public enquiry into the re-design, a programme of re- building and repair was commenced with contractors Taylor Woodrow. In particular, the Great Hall was rebuilt combining an ‘ingenious mixture of old and new’. 9 In 1988 the first phase of restoration (£37.5m) was complete, supervised by Dr Peter Smith and team. Much of the west Palace was re-designed, including a loading area on the footprint of the old concert hall. Various exhibition and conference spaces were created, including a renewed Palm Court. The ‘pièce de résistance’ was the Great Hall, which is now a vast exhibition and concert hall. New technologies for heat, light, water and fire protection were grafted onto the old brick structure and an ice rink was created in the East Court area. The eastern areas of the Palace (bar the East Court) which survived the fire, were left untouched by the restoration programme. Commercial considerations determined the schedule of work and resources were therefore focussed on re-building and re-launching the west side of the Palace. These spaces and venues have been in continual and successful use ever since. Aerial view 2009: Rebuilt west wing and central nave to left of frame; BBC Studios and transmitter, Victorian Theatre and East Court to right of frame 9 Janet Harris - Alexandra Palace - A Hidden History page 16 3.0 Understanding Alexandra Palace Today 3.1 Planning Policy Context 3.1.1 Statutory Designations • Highgate and Crouch End are located approximately a mile further The Palace today remains an impressive Victorian landmark and has south and west of the Palace and are both areas of high architectural become an indelible part of the local skyline. In function it is a strange importance with buildings ranging from the 17th to the 20th centuries. hybrid, half highly functional and successful, half disused and closed Both were once villages outside London, and the village centres are off. The extensive 20th century repairs and alterations have ensured characterised by older buildings and shops with historic frontages, that the west wing of the Palace is open and regularly used for diverse while the suburbs contain high quality residential areas with Victorian, public events and it is this success that has catalysed the ambition to Edwardian and early 20th century housing stock. Highgate occupies reinvigorate the east wing which has the greater historic significance. a prominent position on top of one of the ‘twin’ hills of north London (Alexandra Palace occupies the other). To fully understand the Palace today it is necessary to examine the various internal spaces, the condition of the building fabric and their individual values, be it evidential, historical, aesthetic or communal, before an overall significance can be articulated. For a detailed gazetteer survey of every space within the Palace, the Conservation Management Plan by Donald Insall Associates should be consulted. For brevity these details have been summarised in this report. 3.1.2 Location The Park is surrounded by the largely terraced 19th and 20th century suburbs of Muswell Hill, Crouch End, Haringey and Highgate. The Palace and Park lie adjacent to several Conservations Areas: • Muswell Hill to the north of the park is a notable and well preserved example of an Edwardian suburb of considerable consistency and quality and offers a vibrant shopping centre that contrasts with the leafy streetscapes surrounding it. • Wood Green and Wood Green Common to the east comprise Edwardian terraces and the shopping centre of Wood Green, and the ancient open space of the Common, adjacent to the railway lines running along the east of Alexandra Park. • The smaller areas of Campsbourne, Rookfield and Hillfield lie to the south. The Campsbourne Cottage Estate is an example of a very early municipal housing scheme with a distinct architectural style, while Hillfield’s Victorian and Edwardian terraces were designed by a local architect John Farrer, resulting in a consistency of style throughout this area. The Rookfield area is characterised by a streetscape of early 20th century semi-detached dwellings of a similar design. • The Hornsey Water and Filter Beds to the south lie adjacent to the boating lake at the southern edge of the Park and comprise an historic water filter site with filter beds and brick buildings dating from 1859 and 1879. page 17 3.0 Understanding Alexandra Palace Today 3.1 Planning Policy Context 3.1.3 Planning Policy Context The need to conserve, protect, restore and repair heritage assets in contribution towards the quality of life for this and future generations, as Policy SP11 requires that the designs of the proposed scheme are London is well established and recognised at national, regional and local well as supporting local strategies to improve social and cultural wellbeing developed with careful consideration of the historic character and level as a key planning objective. There is a range of national, regional and deliver community and cultural facilities and services to meet local heritage of the Palace and with respect for its local context and historic and local policy and guidance documents that outline the planning policy needs. significance, to contribute to the creation and enhancement of Haringey’s framework for the proposed development. A brief summary of the most sense of place and identity. relevant documents and policies is outlined below. Regional Planning Policy UPD Saved Policy OS4 encourages proposals for Alexandra Palace to National Planning Policy Regional Policy is defined by the London Plan (2011). facilitate the restoration of the building’s fabric as well as preserving and enhancing the special architectural and historic interest and setting. Within the overarching roles that the planning system ought to play, a set The repair and restoration of heritage assets, including those at risk, of core land-use planning principles should underpin both plan-making is supported by London Plan policy 7.8, which seeks that heritage It is considered that the scheme proposals respect the character and and decision-taking. assets are put to a suitable and viable use that is consistent with their historic significance of the building, and therefore complies with the conservation. principles of Policy SP12 and SP11 of the Local Plan, UPD Saved Policy Three of these core principles are: OS4 and London Plan Policy 7.8, as well as overarching guidance • To conserve heritage assets in a manner appropriate to their Alexandra Palace is the largest building on English Heritage’s ‘Buildings at contained within the NPPF. significance, so that they can be enjoyed for their contribution to the Risk’ Register, and the Theatre is also on the Theatre’s Trust’s ‘Theatres at quality of life of this and future generations. Risk’ Register. Saved Policies of the Unitary Development Plan (2006) • To take account of, and support, local strategies to improve health, The Haringey Unitary Development plan (UDP) was adopted by the social and cultural wellbeing for all London Plan policy 7.8 requires development affecting heritage assets Council on 17 July 2006. Following the adoption of LB Haringey’s Local • To deliver sufficient community and cultural facilities and services to and their settings to conserve their significance, by being sympathetic to Plan specific policies were saved in March 2013. meet local needs their form, scale, materials and architectural detail. • Saved Policy CSV4 Alterations and Extensions to Listed Buildings requires The National Planning Policy documents relevant are defined within the Policy 7.9 seeks that where possible, heritage assets including buildings that alterations to listed buildings: National Planning Policy Framework (NPPF), in particular paragraph 128. at risk should be repaired, restored and put to a suitable and viable use a) Are necessary and are not detrimental to the architectural and that is consistent with their conservation and the establishment and historical integrity and detailing of a listed building’s interior and exterior; Paragraph 128 of the NPPF requires applicants to describe the maintenance of sustainable communities and economic viability. b) Relate sensitively to the original building; and significance of any heritage assets affected by proposed development, c) Do not adversely affect the setting of a listed building. including any contribution made by their setting. The level of detail should Local Planning Policy be proportionate to the assets’ importance and no more than is sufficient Saved Policy CSV5 Alterations and Extensions in Conservation to understand the potential impact on their significance. London Borough of Haringey Local Plan: Strategic Policies (2013) Areas requires that alterations or extensions to buildings in Conservation Areas preserve or enhance the character of the Conservation Area and Paragraph 131 sets out what local authorities should take into account The Local Plan: Strategic Policies document was formerly adopted by LB retain or reinstate characteristic features such as doors, windows or when determining applications: Haringey in March 2013. The plan period for the local plan is up to 2026. materials of buildings. The plan is the central document in the Local Development Framework • The desirability of sustaining and enhancing the significance of (LDF) and sets out how the Council will deliver a better choice of high Access to heritage buildings heritage assets and putting them to viable uses consistent with their quality design, affordable housing, better community facilities, more The draft SPG on Accessible London states that having regard for the conservation schools and training opportunities, improved public transport and more opportunities to improve access to heritage assets without compromising attractive and safer streets and parks. the special interest of a historic building is recommended. • The positive contribution that conservation of heritage assets can make to sustainable communities including their economic viability Policy SP12 Conservation requires conservation of historic significance of Haringey’s heritage assets, their setting and the wider historic • The desirability of new development making a positive contribution to environment. The policy sets out that the historic environment should local character and distinctiveness be used as the basis for heritage-led regeneration as the basis for good design and positive change. Where possible, development should help The principle of the refurbishment of the eastern end of Alexandra increase accessibility to the historic environment. Palace is supported by core principles within the National Planning Policy Framework (NPPF) which include conserving heritage assets in a manner appropriate to their significance, so they can be enjoyed for their page 18 3.0 Understanding Alexandra Palace Today 3.2 The Setting of the Palace The Palace is set within Alexandra Park, which was first laid out in the 1860s, concurrent with the building of the first Palace. From the south, east and west of the site, the Palace façades, sited as they are at the top of Tottenham Hill, are clearly visible and embedded within the mature planting of the Park. The landscape architect Alexander Mackenzie was well known and his works include Finsbury Park and the Embankment Gardens. The style chosen for Alexandra Park was one of informality, in direct response to the formal layout of the grounds at Crystal Palace in south London. Curving informal walks passed through grassed areas set with specimen trees and shrubs. Additional planting in the 1970s and 1980s has further developed the landscape of the park, providing a green barrier between the upper and lower parts of the park. The north side of the Palace, which has suffered somewhat from fragmentation of the park (as land was sold off in the early 20th century) and the decline of the railway link to the Palace, presents a ‘blank wall’ to Panoramic view across London the nearby Edwardian housing and the ticket office (which is now used as a community hall). The north entrances to the Palace have lost purpose and contribute to the overall loss of significance of this façade. A service yard in the north-west corner is functional but also contributes to this loss. Car parks exist at the north, east and west of the Palace, and a South Terrace at the front of the Palace gives sweeping views to the parkland below and to panoramic views of London. The view of St. Paul’s from the South Terrace is protected by law. View of Alexandra Palace from the South This plan shows the Park and Palace just after the turn of the last century, largely surrounded by new Victorian and Edwardian suburbs page 19 3.0 Understanding Alexandra Palace Today 3.3 External Elevations The Palace was built on a symmetrical rectangular plan over 7.5 acres in Huntingdon white and yellow brick embellished with patterned red brickwork in the Italianate style. Classical mouldings and ornaments, such as cornices, volutes and keystones are made of Portland cement. The north and south elevations have a central frontispiece with gable and pediment and a large recessed rose window above arched entrance porches. The arch is flanked by tall three light windows separated by half columns with segmental pediment above. There is a two-storey 15- bay colonnade either side, divided into three sections and terminating in square towers, originally with lead turrets. The upper colonnade is arched with stone columns and these were once open balconies. The lower colonnade has flat arches resting on brick piers. Almost all of the roof coverings of the Palace have been renewed or repaired, except for the buildings flanking the east entrance. The majority of the original external elevations exist from 1875, and in the case of the north and south porticoes, these are of 1860’s origin. There have been extensive repairs to the south-west elevations following the 1980 fire, and there have been some 20th century insertions to the east entrance portico and other areas (for example fire escape stairs). Part of the north elevation is free standing due to the creation of the service yard. Obviously the south east tower has been extensively remodelled by the BBC and the adjacent colonnade loggias filled in. It is clear from this general overview that despite some alterations, primarily to the roof-scape and the south-east corner, the Palace retains the overall look of its original design. The survival of the vast majority of external brickwork and detail is highly significant, evidencing both the architectural credentials of the building as a large scale Victorian public building with impressive massing and the historical associations with its exhibition forebears and creators. It also has an aesthetic design value, again for its impressive scale and the formality, symmetry and beauty of the classical detailing and ornament, including the polychromatic scheme and the use of glass roofing. The Palace provides an impressive sight through the tree-lined roads of Muswell Hill. Alexandra Palace Elevations 1874 page 20 3.0 Understanding Alexandra Palace Today 3.4 Internal Spaces 3.4.1 Basements The warren of basements underneath Alexandra Palace originally supported the service functions of the Palace, such as the kitchens, laundry, bake-houses and workshops. In construction it was formed of a series of brick vaults and rooms, some with light wells, its function primarily to support the mass of monumental masonry at ground level. The north basements have mostly been re-excavated and rebuilt since the 1980 fire and therefore have neutral significance. However the sub structure to the north portico of the Great Hall is the original 1860’s construction and therefore is highly significant for its evidential value. In general terms the condition of the north basements is satisfactory. The south basements host a series of brick vaults and rooms with varying amounts of old machinery, equipment and rubbish deposited in them. The central portion of the south basements, supporting the south portico and Great Hall are the original first Palace construction of 1864-66 and are therefore evidentially significant, despite modern additions as the Palace adapted. Similarly, the south-west basement section is of 1875 construction (i.e the second Palace) and is therefore significant. In general terms the condition of the south basements is poor. In all areas there exist fragments of old services (for example cast iron pipework) and old adaptations (for example window bars during the World Wars) as well as the detritus of many years being used as a ‘dumping ground’. Some of these relics are obviously significant for their historic illustrative value. Alexandra Palace basement plan 10 From Listing Description, English Heritage A series of ovens in basement Basement page 21 3.0 Understanding Alexandra Palace Today 3.4 Internal Spaces 3.4.2 West Entrance and Palm Court area The West Entrance is a small foyer area between the entrance colonnades and the Palm Court. It has been modernised but is unaltered in form. The Palm Court, originally named the West Conservatory, is of 1875 construction, consisting of a large central domed glass roof with glass barrel vaults to the north, east and south. Brick piers and arches support the structure and the roofs, aided by square cast iron columns, four at each corner, topped with Corinthian columns and a 1980’s version of the original colours. The area survived the 1980 fire however, some modern additions and considerable restoration work has taken place to the walls and the roofs have been largely re-glazed. The condition of this area is good, and it functions successfully as grand foyer to the West Hall. This area retains its original structure, layout and a good proportion of original materials and is therefore of high evidential significance. The fact that the Palm Court still contains palm planting illustrates an historical value and tells the story of this space. The original West Palm Court The West Palm Court today page 22
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