Hello, WI N E The Most MELANIE WAGNER ESSENTIAL THINGS Illustrations by You Need to Know LUCY ENGELMAN ABOUT WINE CHRONICLE BOOKS SAN FRANCISCO for Christian CONTENTS Little Wine Love Notes 8 Grape to Glass 44 Grow, Baby, Grow 45 Welcome to Wine 10 Vineyard Vocabulary 46 Wine Is Big: Get Cozy with It 11 The Annual Cycle of a Vine 49 Baby Steps 15 Winemaking 101 54 Get Gear 15 Vine Math 58 Decoding the Pomp and Circumstance 19 Terroir: There’s No Place Like Home 61 Know Your ABTs 21 Grapes Love a Good Fight 62 Become a Savvy Shopper 24 Label Language 27 Evaluating What’s Nine Secrets for Ordering Wine in the Glass 64 on a Restaurant List 28 See 65 The Taste Test 30 Color Confidential 66 Little Wine Lies 32 Smell 67 The Aroma Wheel 68 #1: Expensive Wine Is Great Wine 33 Awful Aromas 70 #2: Screw Caps Are for Cheap Wine 34 Taste 73 #3: You’re Allergic to the Sulfites in Wine 35 Wine Talk 74 #4: Blends Are Better 36 What Makes a Wine Exceptional? 78 #5: Voluptuous Legs Are Raveworthy 37 Vintage Variation 79 #6: It’s OK for Anybody to Use the C-Word 38 #7: Pink Is Passé 42 The Great Divide 80 How Old Is Old? 81 Rules and Regulations 83 The Name Game 86 Wine Label Anatomy 87 The Greatest Division of All 90 Old World/New World Cheat Sheet 92 Grapes to Know 94 Wine and Food 142 Sauvignon Blanc: The Acid Queen 98 General Guidelines for Pairing 143 Chardonnay: Miss Popularity 101 Cheese Matters 147 Riesling: The Nerd 105 Cheese Pairing Guide: Twenty-Nine Top Pinot Noir: The Seductress 108 Cheeses and Their Perfect Wine Partners 148 Cabernet Sauvignon: The King 111 Decadent Debauchery: A Map for Your Sweet Tooth 151 Merlot: The Wallflower 114 Wine + Chocolate = Fake Friends 154 Sangiovese: The Italian All-Star 116 Other Tricky Foods to Pair 155 Zinfandel: The Good-Time Grape 119 Great Wines for Pairing 156 Syrah: The Dark and Mysterious One 121 Wines for Cooking 157 Take Care and Drink This, Eat That 158 Always Share 124 Eat This, Drink That 168 Take Good Care of Your Babies 125 What Next? 180 Wine’s Lifeline 127 Serving Secrets 130 Go to Tastings and Wine Events 181 Wine 911 134 Start a Wine Tasting Group 181 How Much? A Wine Buying Guide 137 Homework Six-Packs 183 Throw a Wine Party 186 The After-Party Isn’t Really a Party After All 138 Visit Wineries 191 Bring Out the Big Guns 139 Join Wine Clubs 194 Great Wine Gifts 140 Read On! 195 Twenty-Five Reliable Grocery Store Brands 197 Twenty-Five Wines on a Dime 198 Online Wine Retailers 199 Glossary of Wines 200 Index 218 Acknowledgments 228 HELLO, WINE Little Wine Love Notes 8 I set out to be a teacher; the wine part was My bumpkin status did come with a perk a surprise turn. Postcollege, with one psych- though. Because I was hobnobbing with ology degree and two years of teaching top winemakers, importers, and restau- adorable but exhausting four-year-olds rateurs, my aha moments with wine under my belt, I felt restless. I was living were bittersweet—bitterly humbling as in a dump in San Francisco, scraping by I was constantly reminded of how little I on a steady diet of ramen noodles, when knew, yet sweet because I usually had the idea of working with wine entered my an incredible glass of wine in my hand. consciousness. Thankfully, passion and curiosity always seemed to conquer my pride. Maybe it One afternoon on the playground I asked was self-preservation, or the patience I the mother of one of my students what she had developed tending to those preschool did for a living. When she answered that tots, but I turned frustration with my own she sold fine wine, bells went off in my ignorance into an unrelenting drive to head and my eyes got wide and sparkly. I understand wine, and then to assist others remember thinking, “Selling wine is a job?” in getting there on a (fingers crossed) less It had never occurred to me. I had always painful path. loved drinking wine (when I could afford it). A career in wine sounded irresistibly During the past ten years, as a Certified glamorous. I left my preschool gig giddy Sommelier, writer, speaker, and teacher, with the vision of a chic new life. However, I’ve had the opportunity to educate many my real-world adventures on the way to wine professionals and connoisseurs. My becoming a wine guru were rarely idyllic. favorite students, however, are the ones who are just beginning to dive in: people Promptly after my epiphany, I talked my who’ve had enough experience with wine to way into a job I was thoroughly under- know that they are hooked and are eager to qualified for—selling fine wine for a top learn more. Of course, they want to under- distributor. Seemingly overnight, I was stand why wine tastes like it does, but they knee-deep in elite circles of the industry, also become empowered when I can pro- and I knew nothing about wine except that vide them with practical, applicable wine it was wet and it tasted good. If there had info—things like how long a bottle stays been a boot camp for wine, I would have fresh after opening, what screw caps say eagerly enlisted; the road would have been about the quality of the wine, and how much more predictable and I would have at least money you need to spend to get a decent had comrades to suffer alongside. Sadly, I bottle of pinot noir. It is my passion and was alone: a misfit. I still remember how privilege to champion this group on the embarrassing and uncomfortable it felt to road to becoming aficionados. be mocked by the snob sect. LITTLE WINE LOVE NOTES My calling to write this book emerged Think of this book as a gateway to wine. because my own school of hard knocks left Just as preschool prepares you for the me empathetic with wine rookies, and also rough-and-tumble world of elementary 9 because I saw a huge gap in the information education, consider this book a precursor being touted as an “Introduction to Wine.” to your forthcoming wine adventures. Most often in this category, you find beauti- These pages are the culmination of every- ful, articulate books that are insightful and thing I’ve learned during my years of mis- accurate, but overwhelming to the beginner. haps and enlightenment on the wine route, I remember picking up some of them in my condensed into what I feel are the most early days, and then promptly putting them essential lessons you need to know now—at back on the shelf. They were just too techni- the beginning of your journey. Think of each cal, too soon. On the flip side are pocket- chapter as a little wine love note from me to size works that do an injustice to wine by you. Together, they contain the most impor- oversimplifying it, setting the reader up for tant nuggets of wine truth that I’ve learned disappointment by promising them expert along the way, the secrets I wish someone status in one hundred petite pages. had handed me when I was just starting There’s a fine line between simplifying wine out. I hope this book makes you smarter and reducing it to something less than it and more confident. I hope it makes you is, and also between respecting tradition think and laugh, and that it ignites a desire and getting way too serious. I believe it’s to always continue learning more, so that possible to enjoy wine, study it in easily your life is rich with the joy of wine. digestible chunks, and celebrate its end- less intrigue all at the same time. Welcome to Wine Maybe you are brand new to wine, or maybe you‘ve been drinking for years and have just decided that it‘s time to step up your know-how. Either way, I’m glad you’re here, and the first thing I want to do is give you a big warm welcome into the wine world. It’s exciting and delicious—you are in for a treat. As I see it, my job is to empower you with meaningful wine information (the stuff you’re going to actually use) and to encourage you to feed your passion for learning about wine, so that it far outlasts this book. We begin with a little pre- game prep; the first chapter lays out my plan for how to approach the enormity of the subject, and essential first steps to get started. WELCOME TO WINE WINE IS BIG: 1. WINE IS THE MOST INTERESTING GET COZY WITH IT CONSUMABLE SUBJECT IN THE WORLD. 11 Wine is truly fascinating. I’m not just Wine has a justifiable reputation for being talking about being intrigued by what’s in intimidating: there’s a lot to know. All that the glass, but also the way in which it opens knowledge can seem big and scary, and doors to learning about so many other leave us feeling insecure. It might sound things. A single bottle can inspire us to pick funny, but the first, most essential step to up a history book, learn about another becoming confident with wine is to embrace culture, contemplate a scientific principle, that vulnerability, and prepare for a lifetime enthuse over maps, or venture off to a new of learning. The sooner you can get com- place. And the best part . . . you drink it! fortable with the magnitude of what there is to know—and content that you, in fact, do Wine is one of the only things I can think of not need to master wine to relish it—the that combines intellect with pure, unadul- more you will enjoy your overall experience. terated sensory hedonism. Reading alone You do not need to memorize all the com- will never make you winewise; no book can munes in Bordeaux or which grapes are duplicate the ultrasexy texture of pinot noir grown in Romania in order to properly or the purely animalistic aroma of South swoon over a great bottle; thankfully, the Africa’s signature grape, pinotage. To truly pleasure of wine is not reserved for experts. absorb wine, you have to absorb it, which is While I am here to help you develop a sense pretty much the best homework ever. of intimacy and comfort with wine, I’ll also be the first to tell you that getting too 2. WINE IS ALIVE. technical can suck the romance right out of Real wine comes from a farm, not a factory. your glass. As you begin your education, I Although some wine companies churn out urge you to celebrate wine’s complexity and cases of widget wine so formulated and intrigue, and also to savor the trip. If you fall fixed up in a chemistry lab that it becomes in love, you will be challenged, as much as you as predictable and tasty as plastic, true like, for the rest of your wine drinking days. wine—artisan wine—is highly affected by the annual cycle of the vineyard, and by the Here are just some of the ways in which care that is taken in growing the sweet little this moving target will keep you curious, baby grapes that deliver it. This dynamic once she’s captured your heart. beverage, once bottled, still breathes and evolves. It remains extremely sensitive to time, temperature, travel, and context (like what mood you’re in when you experience it, who you’re with, or what you’re eating). Did You Know? Danish researchers at the Institute of Preventive Medicine say that wine drinkers have a higher IQ than beer and spirits drinkers or abstainers. HELLO, WINE Buy a dozen bottles of a stellar cabernet I’m a beer advocate, and I love a handcrafted and taste one every year for twelve years. cocktail, too, but neither seems to have the You’ll surely notice it keeps changing on contemplative trigger that wine does. 12 you. Like anything with a soul, wine is hard Of course, not all wines will change your to capture. It is never the same twice, but life and not all of your wine experiences that’s part of its elusive charm. will be thoughtful. But, often, drinking good wine reminds you to be a more mind- 3. WINE GROUNDS YOU. ful human and can make everyday life You may have already discovered . . . wine more vivid. has a spiritual side; if you let it, it has a way of brightening your awareness. One MORAL OF THE STORY of the things that first attracted me to wine Wine is big, deep, and mysterious. It’s was that when I drank it, I noticed that I going to take a long time, and a lot of felt more connected to the earth and to the drinking, for you to feel like you really people I shared it with. In a world where know wine. And, typically, as soon as you people are increasingly detached—despite, think you’ve got it, it surprises you with and perhaps because of, a tsunami of a fascinating twist. Just keep repeating technology—wine demands you sit still. It this mantra: Learning about wine is sexy, helps you tune out distraction and be more not scary. present in the moment. It effortlessly initiates meaningful conversation and carves pathways that link you to the person across the table, even if you start out as strangers.
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