Hawaii. 2013

739 Pages·2012·264.77 MB·English

by  Foster, Jeanette

Hawaii
2013
by Jeanette Foster
John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Published by:
JOHN WILEY & SONS, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
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ISBN 978-1-118-28786-6 (paper); ISBN 978-1-118-33372-3 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-33141-5 (ebk);
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Editor: Cate Latting
Production Editor: Michael Brumitt
Cartographer: Andrew Dolan
Photo Editors: Cherie Cincilla & Alden Gewirtz
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Rocks on Sunset Beach on Oahu © Inge Johnsson / Alamy Images.
Back cover photo: Left: View of the ocean above the mountains, Makapuu Lighthouse, Honolulu
© Marco Garcia. Middle: Mauna Lani Golf Course, Big Island © Ryan Siphers. Right: Close-up of
exotic plant © Dana Nadeau, Garden Island Photography.
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CONTENTS
List of Maps vii
1
THE BEST OF HAWAII
1
The Best Beaches 2 The Best Moderately Priced
The Best Island Experiences 4 Accommodations 17
The Best of Natural Hawaii 7 The Best Places to Stay with the
Kids 19
The Best of Underwater Hawaii 9
The Best Resort Spas 21
The Best Golf Courses 10
PAMPERING IN PARADISE 22
The Best Ways to Immerse Yourself
in Hawaiian Culture 11 The Best Dining, Hawaii Style 23
THE WELCOMING LEI 13 The Best Restaurants 25
The Best Luxury Hotels & The Best Spots for Sunset
Resorts 14 Cocktails 28
2
HAWAII IN DEPTH
30
Hawaii Today 32 Hawaiian Culture 49
The Making of Hawaii 33 When to Go 50
IS EVERYONE HAWAIIAN IN HAWAII? 37 Hawaii’s Natural World 60
PIDGIN: ’EH FO’REAL, BRAH 38 Responsible Travel 69
DO YOU HAVE TO SPEAK HAWAIIAN IN Tours 71
HAWAII? 39 DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT YOUR
Hawaii—Present Day 41 GOLD CARD 77
Eating & Drinking in Hawaii 46
3
SUGGESTED HAWAII ITINERARIES
80
A Week on Oahu 81 A Week on Molokai 91
A Week on the Big Island of A Week on Lanai 93
Hawaii 85 A Week on Kauai 95
A Week on Maui 88
4
OAHU, THE GATHERING PLACE
99
The Best Oahu Experiences 100 Attractions in & Around Honolulu
Orientation 102 & Waikiki 116
Getting Around 112 ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS 117
FAST FACTS: OAHU 113 RAINY DAYS 121
ONE STOP FOR TICKETS AT PEARL A BIRD’S-EYE VIEW 189
HARBOR 125 ROLLING THROUGH WAIKIKI
OAHU’S VIBRANT ARTS SCENE 132 ON A SEGWAY 190
WALKING TOUR 1: HISTORIC Where to Eat 191
CHINATOWN 133 TASTY TOURS FOR THE HUNGRY
BARGAINING: A WAY OF LIFE IN TRAVELER 198
CHINATOWN 137 LOCAL CHAINS & FAMILIAR NAMES 209
WALKING TOUR 2: HISTORIC LUAU! 218
HONOLULU 140
Shopping A to Z 219
THE ALOHA TOWER 141
FISH MARKETS 222
THE PRESIDENT LIVED HERE . . .
FARMERS MARKETS 224
AND HERE . . . AND HERE . . .
AND . . . 146 HEALTH-FOOD STORES 225
Beyond Honolulu: Exploring the Oahu After Dark 232
Island by Car 149 GET DOWN WITH ARTAFTERDARK 234
Beaches 161 Where to Stay 237
Watersports 169 AFFORDABLE PARKING IN
EXPERIENCING JAWS: UP CLOSE & WAIKIKI 242
PERSONAL 172 IT’S NOT YOUR FATHER’S WAIKIKI
Nature Hikes 175 ANYMORE 246
Camping & Wilderness Cabins 180 A ROOM FOR EVERYONE IN WAIKIKI:
THE OUTRIGGER & OHANA
Golf & Other Outdoor
HOTELS DYNASTY 248
Activities 183
WAIKIKI BEACH WALK 250
Orientation Tours 188
5
HAWAII, THE BIG ISLAND
264
The Best Big Island IMILOA: EXPLORING THE
Experiences 265 UNKNOWN 294
Essentials 268 Beaches 304
The Island in Brief 270 Watersports 309
Getting Around 273 Hiking & Camping 315
FAST FACTS: THE BIG ISLAND 274 Golf & Other Outdoor
Exploring the Big Island 275 Activities 319
ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS 279 IMPROVE YOUR GOLF GAME
EXPERIENCING WHERE THE IN 21⁄2 HOURS 321
GODS LIVE 288 Where to Eat 325
EXPERIENCE HOW THE LOCALS LIVE Shops & Galleries 345
(AND EAT!) 325 AN EVENING UNDER THE STARS 356
A TASTY TOUR 328 Entertainment & Nightlife 356
KONA COFFEE CRAZE! 332 OLD-STYLE HAWAIIAN
A LUNCH FOR ALL FIVE SENSES 340 ENTERTAINMENT 358
BET YOU CAN’T EAT JUST ONE 342 Where to Stay 359
6
MAUI, THE VALLEY ISLE
383
The Best Maui Experiences 384 MORATORIUM ON BIKE TOURS IN
Orientation 387 HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK 444
Getting Around 394 ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS 446
FAST FACTS: MAUI 395 Where to Eat 447
Exploring Maui 396 THE TIKI TERRACE 458
STOP & SMELL THE LAVENDER 411 Shops & Galleries 478
Beaches 420 MAUI’S OWN: OCEAN VODKA 479
Watersports 427 Maui After Dark 489
AN EXPERT SHARES HIS SECRETS: A NIGHT TO REMEMBER: LUAU,
MAUI’S BEST DIVES 433 MAUI STYLE 492
Hiking & Camping 436 Where to Stay 493
Golf & Other Outdoor
Activities 441
7
MOLOKAI, THE MOST HAWAIIAN
ISLE
527
The Best Molokai Experiences 528 Where to Eat 552
Essentials 531 YOUR OWN PERSONAL CHEF—
Getting Around 534 ON MOLOKAI! 554
FAST FACTS: MOLOKAI 534 Shopping 556
Exploring Molokai 534 HALAWA VALLEY: A HIKE BACK
IN HISTORY 557
Beaches 544
THE PERFECT MOLOKAI SOUVENIR 558
Watersports 547
Entertainment & Nightlife 559
MOLOKAI’S BEST SNORKEL SPOTS 548
Where to Stay 560
Hiking & Camping 549
MOLOKAI’S MOST UNIQUE NIGHTLIFE—
Golf & Other Outdoor
THE HOT BREAD RUN 560
Activities 551
8
LANAI, A DIFFERENT KIND OF
PARADISE
564
The Best Lanai Experiences 568 Beaches 575
Essentials 568 Watersports 577
Getting Around 570 Hiking & Camping 578
FAST FACTS: LANAI 570 Golf & Other Outdoor Activities 579
Exploring Lanai 571 Where to Eat 581
ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS 571 Shopping 583
PERFECT FOR A RAINY DAY: LANAI Entertainment & Nightlife 585
ART CENTER 573 Where to Stay 585
9
KAUAI, THE GARDEN ISLE
588
The Best Kauai Experiences 589 Watersports 624
Orientation 592 ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS 630
NIIHAU: THE FORBIDDEN ISLAND 596 Hiking & Camping 631
Getting Around 598 Golf & Other Outdoor Activities 639
FAST FACTS: KAUAI 599 Where to Eat 642
Exploring Kauai 600 PLATE-LUNCH POINTERS 646
DISCOVER THE LEGENDARY LITTLE Shops & Galleries 663
PEOPLE 603 Entertainment & Nightlife 671
MAKE A PILGRIMAGE TO A HINDU Where to Stay 673
TEMPLE 608
THE KING OF CONDOS 677
HOLLYWOOD LOVES KAUAI 612
MOA BETTER: CHICKENS & ROOSTERS 681
BRIDGE ETIQUETTE: SHOWING ALOHA
CREEPING FEES AT
ON KAUAI'S ONE-LANE BRIDGES 614
ACCOMMODATIONS 686
Beaches 616
10
PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HAWAII
690
Getting There 691 FAST FACTS: HAWAII 698
Getting Around Hawaii 692 THE VALUE OF US$ VS. OTHER POPULAR
Tips on Where to Stay 694 CURRENCIES 705
Getting Married in the Islands 697 WHAT THINGS COST IN HAWAII 705
Index 711
LIST OF MAPS
The Hawaiian Islands 3 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on the Big
Island 305
Hawaii History and Legend 34
Restaurants on the Kona Coast 327
Oahu in 1 Week 83
Hotels on the Kona Coast 361
The Big Island in 1 Week 87
The Kohala Coast, North Kohala &
Maui in 1 Week 89
Waimea 369
Molokai in 1 Week 92
Hotels & Restaurants in the Volcano
Lanai in 1 Week 95 Area 381
Kaui in 1 Week 97 Maui 385
Oahu 103 Haleakala National Park 407
Honolulu Neighborhoods in Brief 106 Hana 418
Waikiki Orientation 108 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on
Maui 421
Downtown Honolulu 110
Restaurants in Lahaina & Kaanapali 453
TheBus 114
Hotels & Restaurants in West Maui 455
Honolulu Attractions 118
Hotels & Restaurants in South Maui 467
Walking Tour: Historic Chinatown 135
Upcountry & East Maui 473
Walking Tour: Historic Honolulu 143
Lahaina & Kaanapali Attractions &
Eastern Oahu & the Windward Coast 153
Hotels 497
Central & Leeward Oahu 157
Molokai 529
Oahu’s North Shore 160
Hotels & Restaurants on Molokai 553
Beaches & Outdoor Activities on
Lanai 567
Oahu 163
Kauai 591
Waikiki Restaurants 193
Beaches & Outdoor Activities on
Honolulu Restaurants Beyond
Kauai 617
Waikiki 202
Hotels & Restaurants in Lihue 645
Waikiki Hotels 239
Hotels & Restaurants in the Poipu Resort
The Big Island 267
Area 649
Kailua-Kona Town 277
Hotels & Restaurants on the Coconut
Hilo 295 Coast 657
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park 298 Hotels & Restaurants on Kauai’s North
Shore 661
vii
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
A resident of the Big Island, Jeanette Foster has
skied the slopes of Mauna Kea—during a Fourth
of July ski meet, no less—and gone scuba diving
with manta rays off the Kona Coast. A prolific
writer widely published in travel, sports, and
adventure magazines, she’s also the editor of
Zagat’s Survey to Hawaii’s Top Restaurants. In
addition to writing this guide, Jeanette is the
author of Frommer’s Maui; Frommer’s Kauai;
Frommer’s Hawaii with Kids; Frommer’s Portable
Big Island; Frommer’s Hawaii Day by Day;
Frommer’s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oahu; Frommer’s
Maui Day by Day; and Frommer’s Honolulu &
Oahu Day by Day.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I would like to thank my researcher, Priscilla Life, for her hard work on this project.
-Jeanette Foster
HOW TO CONTACT US
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Hawaii 2013
John Wiley & Sons Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
[email protected]
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