haute potato J P ACQUELINE HAM From Pommes Rissolées to Timbale with Roquefort, 75 Gourmet Potato Recipes In loving memory of Baji, an extraordinary and irreplaceable woman. Acknowledgments To Carole, for putting up with my crazy work habits and helping me put my best foot forward. You’re an amazing friend, and none of this would have happened without you. To Phoopi, Mina, Pali Apa, and Sara, thank you so much for your guidance and for teaching me how to prepare so many dishes! To Cô Nho, thank you so much for putting up with me making a mess in the kitchen. To Ross, I’m so happy you brought this project to me! Thanks for making it happen. And finally, to Lulu, My Girls, Daddy, and Chi Tine, you’re the most supportive family I could ever have hoped for. I love you all. Thank you so much for taking care of the baby while I cooked up a storm! Contents Introduction Chapter 1 Refreshing Vichyssoise Potato Frittata Coal-Cooked Sweet Potatoes with Pomegranate-Molasses Butter Cream of Rosemary Roasted Beet and Potato Soup Salade Niçoise Crab, Avocado, and PotatoSalad in Endive Cups Potato and Carrot Soufflé Vietnamese-Style Shrimp and Potato Salad Fava Bean and Pomegranate on Potato Bruschetta Patates Fingerling à l’Anglaise et à l’Orange Sanguine Chapter 2 Decadent Timbale with Roquefort Pommes Rissolées Tarte Pomme de Terre Pommes de Terre Fourrées aux Girolles Baked Bacon and Quail Eggs in Roasted Potato Cups Crêpes Vonnassiennes with Smoked Salmon Baked Potatoes Filled with Caviar and Tangerine Crème Fraîche Sauce Prosciutto-Wrapped Fig and Gnocchi Bites Goat Ricotta and Chorizo Filled Hash Browns Pommes de Terre Farcies à la Viennoise Pommes Château with Fried Calamari, Basil, and Tomato Cherry Relish Lobster Corn Chowder Chapter 3 Cheesy Cheesy Potato Croquette Appetizers with Harissa Sauce Pommes Duchesse Fourrées au Fromage Spinach Gnocchi Lasagna Pine Nut, Chèvre, and Potato Cigars with Lemon Caper Sauce Smoked Salmon Tartiflette Potato Quiche Lorraine Papaya, Stilton Cheese, and Shiitake Mushroom Potato Skins Salsify, Potato, and Cheese Gratin Pommes de Terre Chamonix Broccoli and Cheddar Pierogies Chapter 4 Crispy & Crunchy Hasselback Potatoes with Sauce Verte Parsley and Walnut Pesto Roasted Potatoes Pommes de Terre Rôties au Four Lyonnaise Potatoes with Green Olives and Sun-Dried Tomatoes Crispy Potato Wedges Oven Sweet Potato Fries with Pineapple-Mango Aioli Galettes de Pomme de Terre à l’Alsacienne Khoai Lan Chiên Tôm Pommes Parisiennes Moules Frites Mimolette Fines Herbes Pommes Pont-Neuf Chapter 5 Creamy Pomme Purée aux Olives Brie Cheese and Roasted-Garlic Mashed Potatoes Veal Hachis Parmentier (Shepherd’s Pie) Pesto Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes Gratin Dauphinois Truffle Pommes Purée Moussaka Pommes Biarritz Pommes Mousseline Sweet Mashed Potatoes with Maple Syrup Roasted Bananas Mashed Purple Potatoes with Herb Goat Cheese Ajvar Mashed Potatoes Chapter 6 Spicy Panipuri Kheema Cutlets Masala Potato Chips Cà Ri Khoai Tây Aloo Bonda Aloo Paratha Jeera Aloo Traditional Samosa Lamb Tagine Chorizo and Morel Mushroom Filled Samosa Aloo Tikki Chaat Chapter 7 Sweet Lavender Peruvian Purple Potato White Chocolate Torte Yam and Semolina Flan with Pistachio Spun Sugar Candied Yam Dessert Cup with Chocolate Ginger Mousse, Gingersnap, and Marshmallow BrÛlée Japanese White Sweet Potato Tiramisu Sweet Potato and Matcha Green Tea Crème BrÛlée Tarte Amandine aux Patates Douces Sweet Potato Brioche Potato Beignets with Chestnut Purée Filling Prince William’s Cake Introduction Potatoes get a bad rap. They’re used in popular culture to denote commonness (meat and potatoes) or laziness (couch potato). In everyday culinary use they’re most often found in the form of french fries in fast- food joints, potato chips from local supermarkets, or nondescript heaps of mashed potatoes in buffet lines. But their true nature, both in the kitchen and in our culture, is far more complex and fascinating than it may seem at first blush. How many vegetables have been the subject of international public relations campaigns, or can take credit for population booms, mass migrations, political upheaval, and outright war? The humble potato can take credit for all this, and much more. This book is my ode to the often-used but underappreciated potato. It’s a celebration of the myriad culinary possibilities that are just waiting to be discovered. There are few other vegetables dynamic enough to be roasted, boiled, steamed, baked, fried, or mashed. Multiply this diversity by the dozens of varieties now readily available and the opportunity to create unique dishes truly knows no bounds. The potato is also a passport of sorts, because it allows us to sample foods and flavors from around the world. Its use in America and Europe is well documented, but elegant and exquisite potato dishes can also be found in Africa, India, and the Far East. Not surprisingly, I have found four different variations on the potato pancake alone from opposite corners of the globe. In this book I’ve included one of my favorites, which hails from India: a spicy potato cutlet stuffed with ground beef, or kheema. To illustrate the versatility of potatoes, the book is separated into chapters based on the primary flavor profile or texture of the dish. Each section is an exploration of the ways in which the potato can be used. So, though it may start its life in the ground, when combined with the right techniques and ingredients the potato can truly be haute cuisine. I hope you’ll agree. Chapter 1 Refreshing Potato dishes can often turn out greasy or heavy, but that doesn’t have to be the case! Whether in starters, salads, or soups, a potato can be a bright and refreshing start to a dinner, or a perfectly balanced lunch that helps keep you going throughout the day. The key to creating light and elegant potato dishes is to select fresh ingredients that accentuate the flavor of the potato without overpowering it—citrus and green vegetables in particular are excellent options. In terms of protein, seafood pairs exquisitely with potatoes, and you’ll notice that several of the recipes in this chapter make use of tuna, shrimp, and crab.
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