Harry's cosmeticology Volume 1 : focus books : handbook of skin anti-aging theories for cosmetic formulation development : anti-aging pathways

554 Pages·2015·7.71 MB·English

by  Ralph Gordon

NINTH EDITION
Harry’s Cosmeticology
Harry’s Cosmeticology 9th Edition © 2015 Chemical Publishing Co., Inc.
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or
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of the 1976 United Stated Copyright Act, without either the prior written
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addressed to the Publisher, Chemical Publishing Company, through email at
[email protected].
The publisher, editors and authors make no representations or warranties with
respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and
specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of
fitness for a particular purpose.
Volume One - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01762
Volume Two - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01779
Volume Three - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01786
eBook - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01793
First Edition
Chemical Publishing Company www.chemical-publishing.com Printed in the
United States of America
About the Editor-in-Chief
Meyer R. Rosen
CChem, CPC, CChE, CFEI, DABFE, DABFET, FAIC
Meyer R. Rosen is President of Interactive Consulting, Inc.
(www.chemicalconsult.com). He is a Thought-Leader and expert in the field of
Technical Marketing and multi-industry Technology Transfer Applications
including, but not limited to: cosmetics and personal care, applied rheology,
applied surface and interfacial chemistry, polymers, organosilicones,
professional editing and custom preparation of Mind-Maps® for the organization
and presentation of complex information.
Mr. Rosen is a Chartered Chemist and Fellow of the Royal Society of
Chemistry (London); a Fellow of the American Institute of Chemists and both a
Nationally Certified Professional Chemist and Certified Professional Chemical
Engineer. He is a member of the U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) &
the American Institute of Chemical Engineers. Meyer serves as an Advisor for
David Smith, Executive Director of the SCC Advisory Committee. He is also
Editor for U.S. & Canada and Editor-in-Chief for North and Latin America for
Euro Cosmetics Magazine in Germany. Mr. Rosen is Editor of the Delivery
System Handbook for Personal Care and Cosmetic Products and Editor-in-Chief
of Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9th Ed.
Meyer served for six years as the Chief Scientific Advisor and Director of
Technical Programming for United Business Media’s (UBM) HBA Technical
Conferences. He a former Director of the American Institute of Chemists, past
Vice President of the Association of Consulting Chemists and has served on the
Scientific Advisory Board of Supply Side West/East: Virgo Publications. Mr.
Rosen is also the Founder, Organizer and co-moderator for HBA’s Annual
International Safety, Regulatory and Certification Symposia.
Acknowledgements
I acknowledge the ongoing sense of calm thoughtfulness of Ben Carr, my
wonderful publisher and his confidence and trust in my judgment while
providing the special support that has meant so much to me, over the almost
three years it has taken to produce the book you are reading today.
I also acknowledge and thank the many authors of this book for their
commitment to making this the best Harry’s ever written. They have taught me
many things by their writings and provided superb networking contacts to people
who had the background to write about the areas I saw as needing to be in the
book. I am grateful for their growing friendship and relationship and providing
me the opportunity to interact with many of the finest minds/people; and their
thinking, as well as following my guidelines to achieve our goals.
I am also grateful for the many kind words from my authors and editors who
liked my professional editing skills and sharpening them as I went along. Their
patience in explaining-in writing-the answers to all of my seemingly endless
questions contributed much to my understanding our industry in a way that was
far more in depth than I brought to beginning this book. As I said to them, “If
you can’t explain it to me so I really understand it; then how will our readers
understand what you are saying?
I give special thanks to my Editors who took my thoughts and ideas and
worked with me to find authors who knew their subjects and could organize and
combine the thinking of-the- many to produce a unified-whole. Special thanks
also to Navin Geria, Howard Epstein, Chia Chen, Bruce Victor, Bozena
Michniak-Kohn, Ruud Overbeek, Manuel Gamez-Garcia, Michael Prencipe,
Chuck Warren, Lee Stapleton, Adam Friedman, M.D., Ray Rigoletto, Roger
McMullen, Randy Wickett, Martha Tate and so many others who have
contributed to this book.
Finally, I wish to thank my friend and colleague, Professor Doctor Johann
Wiechers, former President of the IFSCC (International Federation of the
Society of Cosmetic Chemists) who unfortunately, unexpectedly and oh-so-
quickly passed from this life while on one of his numerous visits to countries
around the world. Johann travelled to more countries than I can name, to
encourage and support the IFSCC in its mission to bring beauty and health to the
many through his clear thinking, close, objective, ever-questioning and
challenging examination of the “science” associated with cosmetics and personal
care. Once upon a time, he told me that while travelling the world, he always
stayed in the same type of room of his favorite hotel chain because “it always
made him feel like he was at home.”
A manager I once had told me that if “I had lemons, I should make
lemonade”. And so it was with Johann, who turned the enormous amount of time
he spent in travelling to producing an incredible volume of questioning,
challenging and probing scientific papers for us to read and think about for years
to come.
Wherever you are, Johann, I want you to know that your work and critical
thinking approach to cosmetic science has impacted us all-and we miss you
greatly.
Dedication
This book is dedicated to my wife Selma, my Soulmate, Committed Listener and
Partner in the Journey-of-Life.
She who knows, and reminds me, to put the past in the past in order to open
the doorway to the creation of new possibilities and generate new directions for
growth in areas we do not know that we do not know.
How remarkable it is When mere words on paper Grow together
Beyond themselves.
Such words as these Are tracks in time.
Memories of a mind Focused
A heart and soul
Ensconced.
—Meyer R. Rosen July 4, 2014