Handbook of Sustainable Luxury Textiles and Fashion: Volume 2 PDF
Preview Handbook of Sustainable Luxury Textiles and Fashion: Volume 2
Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes Miguel Angel Gardetti Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu Editors Handbook of Sustainable Luxury Textiles and Fashion Volume 2 Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes Series editor Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu, Hong Kong, Hong Kong SAR More information about this series at http://www.springer.com/series/13340 Miguel Angel Gardetti Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu Editors Handbook of Sustainable Luxury Textiles and Fashion Volume 2 123 Editors Miguel AngelGardetti Subramanian SenthilkannanMuthu Centerfor Studies onSustainable Luxury Eco-design Consultant BuenosAires GlobalSustainability Services Argentina Hong Kong Hong KongSAR ISSN 2345-7651 ISSN 2345-766X (electronic) Environmental Footprints andEco-design of ProductsandProcesses ISBN978-981-287-741-3 ISBN978-981-287-742-0 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-981-287-742-0 LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2015943838 SpringerSingaporeHeidelbergNewYorkDordrechtLondon ©SpringerScience+BusinessMediaSingapore2016 Thisworkissubjecttocopyright.AllrightsarereservedbythePublisher,whetherthewholeorpart of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission orinformationstorageandretrieval,electronicadaptation,computersoftware,orbysimilarordissimilar methodologynowknownorhereafterdeveloped. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publicationdoesnotimply,evenintheabsenceofaspecificstatement,thatsuchnamesareexemptfrom therelevantprotectivelawsandregulationsandthereforefreeforgeneraluse. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authorsortheeditorsgiveawarranty,expressorimplied,withrespecttothematerialcontainedhereinor foranyerrorsoromissionsthatmayhavebeenmade. Printedonacid-freepaper SpringerScience+BusinessMediaSingaporePteLtd.ispartofSpringerScience+BusinessMedia (www.springer.com) Preface This book is Volume 2, which is the successor of our previous Volume 1 on Handbook of Sustainable luxury in Textiles and Fashion. This second volume comes out with eight important chapters to deal with the other new arenas of sustainable luxury in textiles and fashion, which were not covered in Volume 1. Chapter “Loewe: Luxury and Sustainable Management” introduces Loewe—a company from the luxury industry and their sustainable management principles. Thischapter deals with the model ofsustainable value creationthat integratesfour elements: environment, innovation, stakeholder management, economic value and potential of growth. Chapter “Long-Term Sustainable Sustainability in Luxury. Where Else?” deals withthepastandcurrentintersectionsofsustainableluxuryandattemptstodrawa conclusion on its future. This chapter includes interesting examples of luxury brands integrating themselves to sustainability and aims to put luxury and sus- tainability in the context of consumers and brands. Chapter “Pineapple Leaf Fibre—A Sustainable Luxury and Industrial Textiles” revolves around the exploration of pineapple leaffibre for sustainable luxury and industrial textiles applications. This chapter includes the discussions pertaining to the extraction methods of fibre and evaluation of fibre properties and importantly coversthesustainable utilization oftheby-productgeneratedduringtheprocessof fibre extraction. Chapter “Beyond Appearances: The Hidden Meanings of Sustainable Luxury” dealswiththedimensionsthatcharacterizesustainableluxuryandthesourcesofthe dialoguebetweenluxuryandsustainability.Theimportantaspectisdiscussedwith the aid offour Italian case studies. Chapter “Irreplaceable Luxury Garments” addresses the value of emotional engagement and the state of irreplaceability of luxury garments, as one way of approaching the topic of sustainable luxury fashion. This chapter also presents the concept of sustainable luxury fashion the framework on the user’s relationship to designproductsandalsodealswiththereframingluxuryfashionthroughtime and human presence. v vi Preface Chapter“TheDevilBuys(Fake)Prada:LuxuryConsumptionontheContinuum Between Sustainability and Counterfeits” deals with the determinants of the “dark side of luxury consumption”, one of the largest challenges in luxury brand man- agement: the increased demand for counterfeit branded product. An empirical investigation of a multidimensional framework of counterfeit risk perception and counterfeit shoppingbehaviourasperceivedbydistinctconsumersegments isalso discussed in this chapter to a greater extent. Chapter“TheLuxuryofSustainability:ExaminingValue-BasedDriversofFair Trade Consumption” includes the discussions pertaining to the examination of the luxuryofsustainabilityagainstthebackdropoftheresearchquestionsconcerninga proposed similarity of consumer associations between luxury and ethical products. Thischapterpresentsthedetailsonanempiricalinvestigationofamultidimensional framework of intrapersonal fair trade orientation, fair-trade-oriented luxury per- ception and fair-trade-oriented customer perceived value with reference to the recommendation offair trade products. Chapter “The Sustainable Luxury Craft of Bespoke Tailoring and Its’ Enduring Competitive Advantage” deals with how the luxury sector sustains its current consumption momentum and simultaneously espouses the logic of sustainable development.Thischapteralsodealswiththefollowingtopics:concisechronology of cultural and societal events of humanity’s affinity, slow fashion philosophy, the theory of the relational view and the importance of relational networks and the artisanalpracticesoftheSavileRowtailorsandtheirrelationalproductionnetwork and retail facades. We would like to take this wonderful opportunity to thank all the contributors ofthechapterspresentedinthisbookfortheirintensiveeffortsinbringingoutthis secondvolumeofthishandbooksosuccessfullywithenrichedtechnicalcontentin their chapters. We are very much confident that this handbook will certainly becomeasanimportantreferencefortheresearchersandstudents,industrialistsand sustainability professionals working in the textiles and fashion sector. Contents Loewe: Luxury and Sustainable Management. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Miguel Angel Gardetti Long-Term Sustainable Sustainability in Luxury. Where Else? . . . . . . 17 Coste-Manière Ivan, Ramchandani Mukta, Chhabra Sudeep and Cakmak Burak Pineapple Leaf Fibre—A Sustainable Luxury and Industrial Textiles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Sanjoy Debnath Beyond Appearances: The Hidden Meanings of Sustainable Luxury. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Silvia Ranfagni and Simone Guercini Irreplaceable Luxury Garments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Susanne Guldager The Devil Buys (Fake) Prada: Luxury Consumption on the Continuum Between Sustainability and Counterfeits. . . . . . . . . 99 Nadine Hennigs, Christiane Klarmann and Franziska Labenz The Luxury of Sustainability: Examining Value-Based Drivers of Fair Trade Consumption. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Steffen Schmidt, Nadine Hennigs, Stefan Behrens and Evmorfia Karampournioti The Sustainable Luxury Craft of Bespoke Tailoring and Its’ Enduring Competitive Advantage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 WenYing Claire Shih and Konstantinos Agrafiotis vii Loewe: Luxury and Sustainable Management Miguel Angel Gardetti Abstract Thesustainableluxury—theonethatrequiresfromorganizations,asocial andenvironmentalperformanceofrealexcellencethroughoutthevaluechain—local “contents” based on culture should not be absent. Thus, sustainable luxury also means craftsmanship and innovation of the different nationalities, preserving the localculturalheritage.Loewe,anorganizationbelongingtotheLVMHgroupsince 1996, is the leading brand of luxury leather in Spain and its name is related to the “mastersofleather.”Atagloballevel,Loeweisintheluxurysectorhavingstartedas aleathercraftsmanassociationindowntownMadridin1846.Thedevelopmentand manufactureofproductsofferedbyLoewearecarriedoutinSpainandshippedtothe mainmarketsinEurope,Japan,China,andtherestofAsia.Itsproductsalsoinclude, beyondfragrancesmadeatLVMHgroup,licensedsunglasses.Despitethefactthat this brand was given a recognition as Lifetime Contribution to sustainable luxury Development within the framework of the IE Award for Sustainability in the PremiumandLuxurySectorsonJuly2,2014,thiscaseanalyzesthecompanyunder themodelofsustainablevaluecreationdevelopedbyProfessorStuartL.Hart(Hart inHarvardBusRev75:66–76,1997;HartinCapitalismatthecrossroads.Wharton SchoolPublishing,UpperSladeRiver,2005;HartinCapitalismatthecrossroads— aligning business, earth, and humanity. Wharton School Publishing, Upper Slade River,2007;HartandMilsteininMITSloanManageRev41:23–33,1999;Hartand Milstein in Acad Manage Executive 17:56–67, 2003) that integrates four aspects: environment, innovation, stakeholder management, and potential for growth. To developthiscase,theauthorcollectedbackgroundandinformationofthecompany from corporate documents (2013 Sustainability Report and the document “Traditional Values and Commitment to the Future” from 2012). This source was M.A.Gardetti(&) CenterforStudiesonSustainableLuxury,Av.SanIsidro4166PB“A”, C1429ADP,BuenosAires,Argentina e-mail:[email protected] URL:http://www.lujosustentable.org ©SpringerScience+BusinessMediaSingapore2016 1 M.A.GardettiandS.S.Muthu(eds.),HandbookofSustainableLuxury TextilesandFashion,EnvironmentalFootprintsandEco-design ofProductsandProcesses,DOI10.1007/978-981-287-742-0_1 2 M.A.Gardetti supplemented withinterviewswith membersofthecompany’ssustainabilityteam. Loewe creates sustainable value through different sustainable practices that add value to the brand. They are energy efficiency, quality and environmental value products,supplychainmanagementanddialog,diversityintegration,acquisitionof new capabilities for sustainability, and at strategic level, Loewe develops a sus- tainablevision going forward realizing its growthpotential. (cid:1) (cid:1) (cid:1) (cid:1) Keywords Luxury Sustainable luxury Loewe Sustainable management Sustainable value creation 1 Introduction Sustainabledevelopmentisanewparadigm,andthisrequireslookingatthingsina differentway.Andwhileluxuryhasalwaysbeenimportantasasocialdeterminant, itiscurrentlystartingtogiveplaceforpeopletoexpresstheirdeepestvalues.Thus, sustainable luxury promotes the return to the essence of luxury with its ancestral meaning, the thoughtful purchase, the artisan manufacturing, the beauty of mate- rials in its broadest sense, and the respect for social and environmental issues (Gardetti2011). Therefore, sustainable luxury will require—from those companies in this sector—a social and environmental performance of true excellence, which means starting with an internal change process, encouraging sustainable business practiceacrosstheorganizationandthesupplychain.Consequently,firstofall,this chapterintroducesLoewe—acompanyfromtheluxuryindustrycreatedbyEnrique Loewe Roessberg in 1846, which currently belongs to the LVMH group. Then, it shows the model of sustainable value creation that integrates four elements: envi- ronment,innovation,stakeholdermanagement,andpotentialofgrowth(Hart1997, 2005,2007;HartandMilstein1999,2003),toendwithananalysisofthecompany in light of the above model and a few conclusions. 2 Methodology To develop this case, the author collected background and information of the company from corporate documents. Among them, I can mention the 2013 Sustainability Report, and the document “Traditional Values and Commitment to the Future” from 2012, addressing the current relationship between the company and sustainability. Moreover, this source was supplemented with interviews with members of the company’s sustainability team.
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