Handbook of Enology, 2 Volume Set.

1184 Pages·2021·28.143 MB·English

by  Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, Denis Dubourdieu, Bernard B. Donèche, Aline A. Lonvaud

Handbook of Enology
Volume 1
Handbook of Enology
VOLUME 1
THE MICROBIOLOGY OF WINE AND
VINIFICATIONS
Third Edition
Pascal Ribéreau‐Gayon, Denis Dubourdieu,
Bernard B. Donèche and Aline A. Lonvaud
Research Unit in Enology, Institute of Vine
and Wine Sciences, University of Bordeaux,
Villenave d’Ornon, France
Coordinator: Philippe Darriet
Research Unit in Enology, Institute of Vine and
Wine Sciences, University of Bordeaux, Villenave
d’Ornon, France
Translator: John Towey
With assistance from Juliet Towey
Vista Translations LLC, Portland, OR, USA
This edition first published 2021
© 2021 John Wiley & Sons Ltd
Edition History
1e Wiley 2000
2e Wiley 2005
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The right of Pascal Ribéreau‐Gayon, Denis Dubourdieu, Bernard B. Donèche and Aline A. Lonvaud to be identified as the
authors of this work has been asserted in accordance with law.
Originally published in France as
Traité d’oenologie
Volume 1 – Microbiologie du Vin, Vinifications
By Pascal Ribéreau‐Gayon, Denis Dubourdieu, Bernard B. Donèche, Aline A. Lonvaud
© Dunod Editeur, 2017, Malakoff
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Library of Congress Cataloging‐in‐Publication Data
Names: Ribéreau-Gayon, Pascal, author. | Dubourdieu, Denis, author. |
Donèche, Bernard B., author. | Lonvaud, Aline A., author. | Glories,
Yves, author. | Maujean, Alain, author. | Towey, John, translator.
Title: Handbook of enology.
Other titles: Traite´ d’oenologie. English
Description: Third edition / coordinator, Philippe Darriet ; translator
John Towey. | Hoboken, NJ : Wiley, 2020-2021. | Includes bibliographical
references and indexes. | Contents: volume 1. The microbiology of wine
and vinifications / Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, Denis Dubourdieu, Bernard B.
Donèche and Aline A. Lonvaud – volume 2. The chemistry of wine
stabilization and treatments / Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, Denis Dubourdieu,
Yves Glories and Alain Maujean.
Identifiers: LCCN 2020033294 (print) | LCCN 2020033295 (ebook) | ISBN
9781119584681 (v. 1 ; hardback) | ISBN 9781119587767 (v. 2 ; hardback) |
ISBN 9781119584629 (v. 1 ; epub) | ISBN 9781119588498 (v. 2 ; epub) |
ISBN 9781119584698 (v. 1 ; adobe pdf) | ISBN 9781119588443 (v. 2 ; adobe pdf)
Subjects: LCSH: Wine and wine making–Handbooks, manuals, etc. | Wine and
wine making–Microbiology–Handbooks, manuals, etc. | Wine and wine
making–Chemistry–Handbooks, manuals, etc.
Classification: LCC TP548 .T7613 2020 (print) | LCC TP548 (ebook) | DDC
663/.2–dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020033294
LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020033295
Cover Design: Wiley
Cover Image: © Digoarpi/Shutterstock
Set in 10/12pt StixTwo Text by SPi Global, Pondicherry, India
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
CONTENTS
Foreword xi
Preface to the Second Edition xiii
Preface to the First Edition xv
Remarks Concerning the Expression of Certain
Parameters of Must and Wine Composition xix
Part I Microbiology of Wine 1
1 Yeasts 3
1.1 . Introduction 3
1.2 . The Cell Wall 5
1.3 . The Plasma Membrane 9
1.4 . The Cytoplasm and Its Organelles 15
1.5 . The Nucleus 18
1.6 . Reproduction and the Yeast Biological Cycle 19
1.7 . The Killer Phenomenon 23
1.8 . Classifi cation of Yeast Species 27
1.9 . Identifi cation of Wine Yeast Strains 49
1.10. Ecology of Grape and Wine Yeasts 57
References 67
2 Yeast Metabolism 73
2.1 . Introduction 73
2.2 . Sugar Degradation Pathways 74
2.3 . Regulation of Sugar-Utilizing Metabolic Pathways 82
2.4 . Metabolism of Nitrogen Compounds 93
References 101
vi Contents
3 Conditions of Yeast Development 103
3.1. Introduction 103
3.2. Monitoring and Controlling Fermentations 104
3.3. Yeast Growth Cycle and Fermentation Kinetics 108
3.4. Nutrition Requirements 110
3.5. Fermentation Activators 115
3.6. Inhibition of Fermentation 122
3.7. Physicochemical Factors Affecting Yeast Growth and
Fermentation Kinetics 126
3.8. Stuck Fermentations 135
References 142
4 Lactic Acid Bacteria 145
4.1. The Different Components of the Bacteria Cell 145
4.2. Taxonomy of Lactic Acid Bacteria 154
4.3. Identification of Lactic Acid Bacteria 156
4.4. The Oenococcus oeni Species 170
References 171
5 Metabolism of Lactic Acid Bacteria 175
5.1. Generalities: A Review 175
5.2. Metabolism of Sugars: Lactic Acid Fermentation 177
5.3. Metabolism of the Principal Organic Acids of Wine 182
5.4. Other Transformations Likely to Occur in Winemaking 189
5.5. Effect of the Metabolism of Lactic Acid Bacteria on
Wine Composition and Quality 195
References 197
6 Lactic Acid Bacteria Development in Wine 201
6.1. Lactic Acid Bacteria Nutrition in Wine 201
6.2. Physicochemical Factors of Bacterial Growth 204
6.3. Evolution of Lactic Acid Bacteria Microflora: Influence
on Wine Composition 210
6.4. Microbial Interactions During Winemaking 218
6.5. The Importance of Bacteriophages 224
References 226
Contents vii
7 Acetic Acid Bacteria 229
7.1. Principal Characteristics and Cytology 229
7.2. Classification and Identification 230
7.3. Principal Physiological Characteristics 232
7.4. Metabolism of Acetic Acid Bacteria 233
7.5. Acetic Acid Bacteria Development in Grape Musts 237
7.6. Evolution of Acetic Acid Bacteria During Winemaking and
Wine Aging and the Impact on Wine Quality 238
References 240
8 The Use of Sulfur Dioxide in Must and Wine
Treatment 243
8.1. Introduction 243
8.2. Physiological Effects 246
8.3. Chemistry of Sulfur Dioxide 248
8.4. Molecules Binding Sulfur Dioxide 252
8.5. Practical Consequences: The State of Sulfur Dioxide in Wines 261
8.6. Antimicrobial Properties of Sulfur Dioxide 262
8.7. The Role of Sulfur Dioxide in Winemaking 265
8.8. The Use of Sulfur Dioxide in the Winery 270
References 277
9 Products and Methods Complementing the Effect of
Sulfur Dioxide 279
9.1. Introduction 279
9.2. Sorbic Acid 280
9.3. Octanoic and Decanoic Acids (Saturated Short-Chain Fatty
Acids) 283
9.4. Dimethyl Dicarbonate (DMDC) 285
9.5. Lysozyme 286
9.6. Destruction of Yeasts by Heat (Pasteurization) 289
9.7. Ascorbic Acid 293
9.8. The Use of Inert Gases 297
References 301
viii Contents
Part II Vinification 303
Reflections on Global Taste and Typicity of Wines 305
10 The Grape and Its Maturation 309
10.1. Introduction 309
10.2. Description and Composition of the Mature Grape 310
10.3. Changes in the Grape During Maturation 322
10.4. Definition of Ripeness—Concept of Vintage 343
10.5. Impact of Various Other Factors on Maturation and Grape
Composition at Ripeness 366
10.6. Botrytis cinerea 375
References 391
11 Harvest and Pre-fermentation Treatments 399
11.1. Introduction 399
11.2. Improving Grape Quality by Overripening 400
11.3. Harvest Date and Operations 401
11.4. Acidity Adjustments of the Harvested Grapes 408
11.5. Increasing Sugar Concentrations 412
11.6. Enzymatic Transformations of the Grape After Harvest 418
11.7. Use of Commercial Enzymes in Winemaking 427
References 429
12 Red Winemaking 431
12.1. Generalities 431
12.2. Mechanical Processing of the Harvested Grapes 433
12.3. Tank Filling 440
12.4. Controlling Alcoholic Fermentation 446
12.5. Maceration 452
12.6. Draining Off the Skins and Pressing 469
12.7. Malolactic Fermentation 480
12.8. Automated Red Winemaking Methods 494
12.9. Carbonic Maceration 499
References 511
Contents ix
13 White Winemaking 513
13.1. Distinctive Characteristics of White Winemaking 513
13.2. White Grape Quality and Picking Criteria 517
13.3. Juice Extraction 526
13.4. Protecting Juice from Oxidation 538
13.5. Clarification 543
13.6. Juice Treatments and the Advisability of Bentonite Treatments 552
13.7. Fermentation Operations 552
13.8. Making Dry White Wines in Barrels 557
13.9. Controlling Reduction Off-Aromas During White Wine Aging 564
References 568
14 Other Winemaking Methods 571
14.1. Rosé Wines 571
14.2. Botrytized Sweet Wines (Sauternes and Tokaji) 577
14.3. Champagne and Sparkling Wines 588
14.4. Fortified Wines 602
14.5. Flor Wines 608
References 612
Index 615
FOREWORD
Over 70 years ago, in 1949, under the and wine, a greater understanding of
direction of Professor Jean Ribéreau‐Gayon, chemical and microbiological parameters,
the fi rst edition of T raité d’oenologie ( Hand- with the aim of ensuring satisfactory fer-
book of Enology ) appeared. That publication mentations and predicting the evolution of
aimed to gather scientifi c and technical wines, and better mastery of wine stabili-
knowledge in the main fi elds of a science zation processes. As a result, the purpose
still in its early stages, originating from the of this publication is to guide readers in
works of Louis Pasteur. Later on, the book their thought processes with a view to pre-
was regularly republished by integrating the serving and optimizing the identity and
most recent experimental results, especially taste of wine and its aging potential. In
those conducted at the Bordeaux School other words, this publication was meant, as
of Enology. In 1997, the fourth edition, pub- the late Professor Denis Dubourdieu wrote,
lished under the direction of Professor to help “. . .obtain original products that
Pascal Ribéreau‐Gayon and Professors are suffi ciently complex, fi ne, and appreci-
Denis Dubourdieu, Yves Glories, Aline A. ated by modern consumers. . .,” in a con-
Lonvaud, Bernard B. Donèche, and Alain text where grape ripeness characteristics
Maujean, was completely reshaped into are evolving and greater attention is being
two volumes. placed on chemical additives.
The current book, which is the seventh The outline of this edition of the Hand-
French edition (third in English) of the book of Enology does not diff er from the
Handbook of Enology , updates and enriches previous ones. Some of the chapters have
the knowledge found in the two‐volume been signifi cantly reworked in light of
edition that fi rst appeared 20 years ago. recent research, while others have been
Subsequent editions were printed in 2004 changed only slightly or not at all. This is a
and then in 2012. As Émile Peynaud said in collective work; it is the fruit of eff orts by
Le Vin et les Jours , “. . .enology is at the ser- the researchers and professors of the Enol-
vice of wine, it is a science in movement, ogy Research Unit at the I nstitut des Sciences
advancing both in its research and applica- de la Vigne et du Vin (ISVV), who provided
tions. . .” As an applied science, it is irri- their expertise to update this Volume 1:
gated by knowledge from the fundamental
sciences (chemistry, biochemistry, micro- • Patricia Ballestra, Associate Professor,
biology, bioengineering, psychophysics, IUT Périgueux, Université de Bor-
cognitive psychology, etc.) and nourished deaux, researcher in the Enology
by empirical observations. The approach Research Unit, ISVV, Université de
used in the H andbook of Enology is thus Bordeaux (Volume 1, Chapter  5 ),
still the same. It is about providing practi- regarding spoilage microorganisms
tioners, winemakers, technicians, and related to mousiness.
enology students with solid knowledge and • Philippe Darriet, Director of the Enol-
the most recent research results. This ogy Research Unit, Université de Bor-
knowledge can be used to contribute to a deaux (Volume 1, Chapters 1 0 and 1 3 ) ,
better defi nition of the quality of grapes regarding the biochemistry of aromas
xi