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1 Music & Arts Groove Korea Magazine / December 2012 • Issue 74 3 Music & Arts Groove Korea Magazine / December 2012 • Issue 74 CREDITS KOREA 4th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea. 010 5348 0212 / 02 6925 5057 / [email protected] EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Matthew Lamers [email protected] CEO Steve Seung-Jin Lee [email protected] Editorial Desk Art & Design TRAVEL & FOOD EDITOR Josh Foreman ART DIRECTOR Daniel Sanchez [email protected] [email protected] MUSIC EDITOR Ethan Thomas DESIGNERS Jumi Leem [email protected] [email protected] COMMUNITY EDITOR Jenny Na Danielle Potgieter [email protected] [email protected] INSIGHT EDITOR Matthew Lamers Adela Ordoñez [email protected] [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITOR Elaine Ramirez [email protected] Advertising EDITOR-AT-LARGE John M. Rodgers [email protected] DIRECTOR Doyi Kim [email protected] EDITOR-AT-LARGE John Burton MANAGER Sang-hyuk Lee [email protected] [email protected] COPY EDITOR Lisa Pollack ASSISTANT MANAGER Claire Jung [email protected] [email protected] Marketing & Administration Web MARKETING EXECUTIVE Jay Park WEBMASTER Dan Himes [email protected] [email protected] MARKETING DIRECTOR Peter Chong [email protected] ACCOUNTING Jang Eun-young Contributors WRITERS, PROOFREADERS PHOTOGRAPHERS R.M. Adamson, Ben Landau, Belle Nachmann, Lisa Pollack, Michelle James Little, Colin Roohan, Rayiaz Khan, Duk-hwa, Dylan Goldby, Farnsworth, Nathan Schwartzman, Read Urban, Ara Cho, Daniel Romin Lee Johnson, Mike Hurt, Seok Oh-yu, Luc Forsyth, Galvin Hin- Vorderstrasse, Paloma Julian, Elaine Knight, Dean Crawford, ton, Victoria Burgamy, Gwen Devera Waden, Ryan Noel, Oh Ju-seok, Conor O’Reilly, Rajnesh Sharma, George Kim, Melissa Hubley, Elizabeth Papile, Gavin Hinton. Tighe Burke, Gwen Devera Waden, Colin Owen Griffin. PUBLISHER Sean Choi [email protected] To contact Groove Korea for advertising, submissions or general comments, please email: [email protected]. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE KOREA. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE KOREA. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Issue Date: Dec. 1, 2012 Registration Date: January 25, 2008 Registration No.: Seoul Ra 11806 © All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2012 Groove Korea Magazine / December 2012 • Issue 74 7 GrooveK_210x297_GIVEN.indd 1 12. 9. 24. �� 7:12 CONTENTS N. 74 CONTENTS D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2 page 36 Into the real Korea: Pilgrimage diaries When Tony MacGregor and his group of pilgrims embarked on a trek across the peninsula, they inadvertently discovered the “real Korea.” page Winter wonderland 54 Groove Korea found six of the best lensmen in the country who braved the snow and sub-zero temperatures to share with you some of the best snowy destinations around the republic. welcome Insight destinations food & Drink 12 22 64 72 Editorial: Christmas dinner in Korea Interview: Gregg A. Brazinsky Leisure cycling at a Korean flash Ho, ho, hold the kimchi Whatever you choose for Christmas dinner Korea specialist and associate professor at point In the mood for a Christmas feast? Groove this year, remember the important part: George Washington University compares Baengnyeong Island is the westernmost brings you a list of Seoul’s best holiday spend it with people you love. the Korean and American political systems. point in South Korea. Locating the island dinners. on a map is an alarming experience when 16 25 you finally find it, tucked only 13 74 kilometers away from North Korea, but Must Reads Koreans head to the polls over 220 kilometers from the South The best fish ‘n’ chips in Seoul Our editor’s picks for December. On Dec. 19, Koreans will choose their It doesn’t get any better than Battered Korean mainland. president for the sixth time since free Sole. 17 elections began in 1987. The importance of 68 this election cannot be understated: While 76 The Inbox on the surface the two remaining candidates A new view of Daegu What our readers have to say. have produced platforms with more similarities Despite some of its unique cultural What you want, at Fugetsu The best of Osaka, in Myeong-dong. than differences, their philosophies and visions activities, many Koreans and expats alike 18 couldn’t be more different. still scoff at the idea of spending a night 78 in Daegu. “Ugly”; “gray”; “why Daegu?” — SKaolraeciao uBse naetws from around Korea. 30 tell a Korean that you’re going to Daegu After-dinner delight that’s easy & for the weekend and that’s what you can 20 4W veo staet rdso wspne waikth uKporeans from across the expect to hear in response. rReelciaipbel:e Red wine-poached pears. Calendar political spectrum to talk about politics and 70 80 December’s best events. the problems facing the country. 52 WHwinatcehreyo ne’ss caanpnueal ice festival When cooking eggs once isn’t enough Recipe: Conchita’s triple-cooked eggs Lost in distraction 71 Back in the American classroom. 82 Polar bear swim Busan’s annual Polar Bear Festival Comfort with a side of gravy Recipe: Braised chicken, pear, onion gravy Groove Korea Magazine / December 2012 • Issue 74 CONTENTS N. 74 CONTENTS D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2 page 96 Long road to recovery Friends and family of an injured climber launch an online fundraiser. page The frontier: Paju 114 There’s more to Paju than barbed wire and army bases. It’s a sparsely populated city that has plenty of beautiful (if small) mountains, lakes and massive shopping malls. arts community Distractions 86 92 100 104 The Artist’s Journey The season of giving Challenge accepted Itaewon finds Groove Korea is teaming up with Artist’s For some, it’s the ringing of a bell and the Groove begins its analysis of the best Journey to bring you insights on Korea’s little red kettles from the Salvation Army international schools in Korea by taking art community. This month we interview that signal the season of giving has a look at Daegu International School, 106 Cho Sun-young, an inner portrait artist. begun. For others, there are invitations which has quickly become one of the to holiday benefits and charity events. top educational institutions in the Comics 88 This month, Groove Korea brings you country. three stories about three causes that At the Box Office need your support. 102 107 “The Hobbit” (Dec. 13) and “Les Misérables” (Dec. 20) 92 Chocolate lovers unite Crossword & sudoku For the first time ever, the world’s largest 89 Helping North Koreans through event dedicated to chocolate is coming 108 song to Korea. Thousands of lovers of Korean DVD Corner PSCORE’s charity concert will be held chocolate, chocolatiers and patissiers “White: The Melody of the Curse” and “The Photo Challenge in Hongdae in mid-December. will descend on the COEX convention Cat” center in southern Seoul from Jan. 17 90 94 to Jan. 20 for the Salon du Chocolat. 109 Seoul’s favorite Christmas tradition JFuresteicdeo fmor fNoorr tNh oKrothre aK ohroestasn a d heofleidcatyo rs Horoscope is back benefit to raise money and awareness. For the second year in a row, Probationary 110 Theatre will stage “SantaLand Diaries” by David Sedaris on Dec. 21. Hotel specials Groove Korea Magazine / December 2012 • Issue 74