CULTURE SMART! GREECE Constantine Buhayer _CS GREECE NE Book FINAL 2.indd 1 22/06/2017 10:32 This book is available for special discounts for bulk purchases for sales promotions or premiums. Special editions, including personalized covers, excerpts of existing books, and corporate imprints, can be created in large quantities for special needs. For more information contact Kuperard publishers at the address below. ISBN 978 1 85733 870 6 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A CIP catalogue entry for this book is available from the British Library First published in Great Britain by Kuperard, an imprint of Bravo Ltd 59 Hutton Grove, London N12 8DS Tel: +44 (0) 20 8446 2440 Fax: +44 (0) 20 8446 2441 www.culturesmart.co.uk Inquiries: About the Author CONSTANTINE BUHAYER is an Anglo-Greek broadcaster, country analyst, and specialist in Greek and Balkan affairs. He was country and security analyst for Jane’s Information Group, specializing in Greece, Cyprus, and the Balkans from the start of the Yugoslav secession wars until 2002. He has worked as producer on the BBC2 flagship current affairs program “Correspondent” and with CBS’ “60 Minutes.” He has co-authored the book Alfred Nobel: His Life and Work, and contributed to others. As a weekly columnist for the Anglo-Greek and Cypriot media he has covered all aspects of the Greek Diaspora. He is a regular on the London-based Monocle radio and has been a specialist commentator on BBC TV and radio. His first edition of Culture Smart! Greece was used at university level in the US and Britain for its accessibility and the originality of its comparative perspectives. The Culture Smart! series is continuing to expand. All Culture Smart! guides are available as e-books, and many as audio books. For latest titles visit www.culturesmart.co.uk The publishers would like to thank CultureSmart!Consulting for its help in researching and developing the concept for this series. CultureSmart!Consulting creates tailor-made seminars and consultancy programs to meet a wide range of corporate, public-sector, and individual needs. Whether delivering courses on multicultural team building in the USA, preparing Chinese engineers for a posting in Europe, training call-center staff in India, or raising the awareness of police forces to the needs of diverse ethnic communities, it provides essential, practical, and powerful skills worldwide to an increasingly international workforce. For details, visit www.culturesmartconsulting.com CultureSmart!Consulting and CultureSmart! guides have both contributed to and featured regularly in the weekly travel program “Fast Track” on BBC World TV. _CS GREECE NE Book FINAL 2.indd 3 22/06/2017 10:32 contents contents Map of Greece 7 Introduction 8 Key Facts 10 Chapter 1: LAND AND PEOPLE 12 • Contradictions, Continuities, and Contributions 12 • Geographical Overview 14 • Helenic Republic or Grece? 17 • More Than Just a Language 19 • A Brief History 21 • Government and Politics 48 Chapter 2: VALUES AND ATTITUDES 58 • Romiosy´ni Intertwined with Hellenism 58 • Family First 59 • Hierarchy 62 • Personal Relationships 63 • Generosity 63 • Atitudes Toward Foreigners 65 • Conspiracy Theories 6 • Wealth, Money, and the Voleménos 69 • Patriotism 70 • Arpa-Cola: Last-Minute Culture 71 • The High Wire of Deadlines 71 • Women 72 • More Than Love 74 • Nostalgia: A Very Greek Condition 74 Chapter 3: CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS 76 • Holidays and Festivals 76 • To Remember: Saints’ Days 7 • The Greek Year 79 • The Grek Orthodox Church 83 • Other Religions 87 Chapter 4: MAKING FRIENDS 88 • Openes 8 • Distinguish Your Orders from Your Requests 89 • Gestures and Physical Contact 90 • Whispering 90 • Timekeping 91 • Hospitality 91 _CS GREECE NE Book FINAL 2.indd 4 22/06/2017 10:32 • Who Pays? 92 • Romance and the Foreigner 93 • Gift Giving 93 • Visiting 94 • Verbal Gretings: A Wish for Life 95 • Alcohol 96 • Philótimo 97 Chapter 5: DAILY LIFE 98 • Town and Country 98 • Water—A Vanishing Commodity 100 • The (Un)Civil Servant Mentality 100 • Growing Up in Greece 102 • Education 103 • The Daily Round 104 • Economic Priorities 107 • Banking and Payments 108 • Shipping 109 • Standards of Living 111 • For Richer, For Poorer 113 Chapter 6: TIME OUT 114 • Paréa: A Fraternity of Friendships 114 • Greek Cuisine 115 • Tavernas, Restaurants, and Coffeehouses 116 • Kouvendoúla: The Art of Idle Talk 120 • Smoking 120 • Shopping for Pleasure 121 • Theater and Cinema 122 • Museums 123 • Archaeological Sites 126 • The Parthenon 126 • Churches and Monasteries 127 • Open Markets 129 • The Exohikó—the Ancestral/Country Home 130 • Sports 130 • The Olympic Games 131 Chapter 7: TRAVEL, HEALTH, AND SECURITY 134 • Buses 134 • Taxis 135 _CS GREECE NE Book FINAL 2.indd 5 22/06/2017 10:32 contents contents • Trains—A Secret World 135 • The Metro and Trams 137 • Boats 137 • Cars: A Health Warning 138 • Walking, Not Walking 140 • Health 140 • Security 141 Chapter 8: BUSINESS BRIEFING 142 • The Greek Economy 142 • Busines Culture 144 • Teamwork 144 • Presentation and Listening Styles 146 • Meetings and Negotiations 147 • Leadership and Decision Making 149 • Etiquete 150 • Punctuality 150 • Eye Contact 151 • Contracts and Fulfilment 151 • Managing Disagreement 152 • Women In Busines 153 Chapter 9: COMMUNICATING 154 • Language 154 • Body Language 156 • The Media 156 • The Internet 159 • Telephone 159 • Mail 160 • Conclusion 160 Appendix 1: Key Comparative Values 162 Appendix 2: The Greek Alphabet 164 Further Reading 165 Index 166 Acknowledgments 168 _CS GREECE NE Book FINAL 2.indd 6 22/06/2017 10:32 7 Map of Greece _CS GREECE NE Book FINAL 2.indd 7 22/06/2017 10:32 map of greece MACEDONIA BULGARIA Serrai • Xanthi • • T HRACE • Kavalla Komotini ALBANIA MACEDONIA • Thessaloniki THASSOS SAMOTHRAKI 5MOUNT ATHOS 5MOUNT OLYMPUS LIMNOS Ioannina • THESSALY • Larisa CORFU • (KERKYRA) Trikkala • Volos PAXOS SKOPELOS LESBOS TURKEY LEVKAS STEREÁ ELLÁS • Lamia SKYROS AEGEAN • Agrinion EUBOEA SEA CHIOS • CEPHALONIA Patras Corinth • •• Athens (Athina) SAMOS Piraeus ATTICA MYKONOS ZAKYNTHOS • Olympia PELOPONNESE DELOS IONIAN SEA CYCLADES Kalamata • • Sparta NAXOS KALYMNOS KOS SANTORINI RHODES M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A Chania • • Iraklion CRETE (KRITI ) Gulf of Corinth Saronic Gulf SPORADES DODECANESE EPIRUS 8 introduction introduction …Why so quiet? Look into your heart, weren’t you happy as we left Greece behind? But what’s the point of fooling ourselves?— indeed, that wouldn’t be properly Hellenic. So let us admit the truth at last: we, too, are Greek by culture—what else are we?—but with tastes and feelings specific to our own country. Tastes and feelings that sometimes seem strange to the Hellenic values that shaped our world. C. Cavafy, “Returning from Greece,” 1901 (Adapted from the Greek by Constantine Buhayer) Greece is an electrifying experience, even more so when we set aside its ancient past. When we enter Greek space we are returning the cradle of Western civilization, where people designed our society, with its political, ethical, and scientific values. Across the ages, traders, scholars, theologians, and all types of teachers have traveled out of its lands to format, formulate, and reformat the world. Thus it was an Athenian scholar, Theodorus of Tarsus, who in 669 ce arrived in southern Britain as Archbishop of Canterbury and established a Greek and Latin school to unite its warring tribes into a single nation. He achieved this by implementing a Greek infrastructure, the parish system, which parceled _CS GREECE NE Book FINAL 2.indd 8 22/06/2017 10:32 culture smart! Greece 9 introduction the land into fixed and manageable civic units, centered upon a church. In a way, part of us forever belongs to the Hellenic world, and expectations are therefore high, so you could be in for a shock if you find yourself plunged into the living Greek reality. Greece arouses passions, prejudices, praises, and today’s visitor can develop responses to the country that range from unbridled fascination to vociferous objection. After all, it is a matter of observation to say that entire nations are still mobilized for and against the Greeks. Many chose to become “them.” When the recent global economic turmoil started, Greece was the central point of reference for governments fearful of its electoral choices, for political movements inspired by its initiatives, and for the world markets, apprehensive of its economic choices. Culture Smart! Greece sets out to equip travelers with essential information about the background, values, and attitudes of the people they will meet, and practical guidelines on how to understand and deal with unfamiliar situations. Even the vital historical section concentrates on relevant but unusual examples that say something about today’s Greeks. For those who connect with the inner life of this gifted people, there are riches aplenty. _CS GREECE NE Book FINAL 2.indd 9 22/06/2017 10:32 introduction