Greece, Athens & the Mainland PDF
Preview Greece, Athens & the Mainland
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GREECE ATHENS & THE MAINLAND 770 ANARI (PPLLE KATOATELIROIAEN IFAAISLKIIKOISU detailed 35 photographs LISEKESRISISMB ueSsneáOukmi FKOUMPAIRIASNEOFYTOUmaps illustrations EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GREECE ATHENS & THE MAINLAND EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GREECE ATHENS & THE MAINLAND Main Contributor Marc Dubin Contents How to Use This Guide 6 Project Editor Jane Simmonds Art Editor Stephen Bere Editors Isabel Carlisle, Michael Ellis, Simon Farbrother, Claire Folkard, Marianne Petrou, Andrew Szudek Designers Jo Doran, Paul Jackson, Elly King, Marisa Renzullo Map Co-Ordinators Emily Green, David Pugh Visualizer Joy Fitzsimmons Language Consultant Georgia Gotsi Contributors and Consultants Rosemary Barron, Marc Dubin, Mike Gerrard, Andy Harris, Lynette Mitchell, Colin Nicholson, Robin Osborne, Barnaby Rogerson, Paul Sterry, Tanya Tsikas Black-figure bowl depicting Maps Gary Bowes, Fiona Casey, Christine Purcell (ERA-Maptec Ltd) the god Dionysos Photographers Joe Cornish, John Heseltine, Rob Reichenfeld, Peter Wilson, Francesca Yorke Introducing Illustrators Athens and Stephen Conlin, Paul Guest, Steve Gyapay, Maltings Partnership, Chris Orr & Associates, Paul Weston, John Woodcock Mainland Greece Printed in China Discovering First American Edition, 1997 Mainland Greece 10 14 15 16 17 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by Putting Greece on DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, the Map 16 New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, A Portrait of 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2015 Mainland Greece 18 Copyright © 1997, 2015 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company The History All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, of Greece 28 mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. A cataloging in publication record is available from the Library of Congress. Athens and Mainland ISSN: 1542-1554 Greece Through the Year 48 ISBN: 978-1-46542-796-0 Throughout this book, floors are referred to in accordance with European usage; ie the Ancient “first floor” is the floor above ground level. Greece Gods, Goddesses and Heroes 56 The Trojan War 58 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Greek Writers Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible and Philosophers 60 at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences Temple arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of Architecture 62 travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, Vases and Vase 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Painting 64 Front cover main image: Porch of the Caryatids, Acropolis, Athens Picturesque village of Oia Santorini Athens Area by Area Athens at a Glance 68 Central Athens North 70 Central Athens South 86 Three gateways at the entrance to Acrocorinth Shopping in Athens 118 Mainland Greece Shopping in Greece 292 Area by Area Entertainment Specialist Holidays in Athens 122 Mainland Greece at and Outdoor Athens Street a Glance 142 Activities 294 Finder 126 Around Athens 144 Survival Guide The Peloponnese 162 Practical Information 300 Central and Western Greece 206 Travel Information 310 Northern Greece 236 General Index 324 Travellers’ Needs Phrase Book 344 Where to Stay 264 Road Map Inside Back Cover Where to Eat and Fresco at Varlaám monastery at Metéora, Drink 274 Central Greece Artist’s impression of a Doric temple 6 (cid:4) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide helps you to get the most from artifacts to be seen. The four regional your visit to Mainland Greece. It provides chapters, plus Athens, describe important expert recomm endations and practical sights, with maps and illustrations. information. Introducing Athens and Mainland Restaurant and hotel recommendations can Greece maps the country and sets it in its be found in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival historical and cultural context. Ancient Greece Guide has tips on everything from using a gives a background to the many remains and Greek telephone to transport. Athens CENTRAL ATHENAST HSENOS ARUEAT BYH AREA (cid:4) 87 Ahallv pe aregde st hreulmatbin tga btos .Athens Atitwst hooe wsnings hhcthassae pebiteneegr,n oa drpeievanisdi. neEdga ciwnhti tohh a s SAwMaaNhrsooceeeo rutusr nohfettsulpahe eialns oelsot tg orl ialitnr dfshraá eBeAamek ysni gth tzohsdr aeitonen inialncgshltr e s irhtatn re hibooysevef mi esdt c aetrlohe eondimu nsrct etaor itoicesrn hteh,rn aheeiaetctide ssreoA obdhNanthfnu i ebs ptediotlyhaond - mietCrsnihni .cclt uaPegeiasts lsrlyeás s r,tkui ochaaamaonna lattdds s n. d oMgaSttahrrtopyeoomepueeun tNsno-nahfi-seaisdaelpstltiae ii hrAoarsd áetntnt ahk rpdoaevieal’ fes sn orG Prtfksfnrlla .,eeaa arFsaet dseMoe t.em eí rImain n dipa nsS udrta,fy khsoltgeneiherce ttm eEiásb,a a fgcau3nosimt2ssttoiyey o0pda r–nsctnr vt2eoo roebn3vsenn .aitead rdzgtreesaeoe’s a otrt hsr tf.,i e n g aAadr elleli tsasati igmol hofa tntpsh ,tae har ensei dgnfo hualtlmrose w bddeeiensrsegccdr rpii bboaeengdd ea. sn i.n SM14890quiA2567oniug cTIKUGMKMJTKAAsleeoiíeyMMahcnernaeuuwmwrerrncsuainoiuutnsvea ieiepmeeLmpssssetikzrlcnahuie llo ór cSóeeoiFlssta umplapaiM ioipfi kAostm toaaltotl óyo egfpuhklIoún u ns ua osOAopsefnA dlsp ler o9frGoW litar pytusG8ArsGts r mu9 pGm–iJe tMFnMa2emlhp1eoapda –lwu09ekolulleisl3k5e4a nsnef esPnp e n–rreCsGlotcplyui 5 ueseeMZrp 9em ermrse0uyaueu – lm scMa9seer i1 uuc sme um CwerpHtM3Syasqhias uuRANPMAFPPrtalkaorllTugnaeaaicrnretsrtiaattiroheisineeatf óociMissseíígiaópnaa t DNnsíyata aoaLSi rnkiil Clyyk kGsiaG dsnóheto iratltk uraGiá rrgcrdoágcaotstehmsero nR dpuoasaíestfk g o notahsösv esá pHs1 o0l9y HMdfCgeios mPKFtniorareueslrltstmiime icdCr eeBeáinenrmumsttieislaadtlre ioPrna ySgl atosacf d eaAi nuthmde ns Awth hleoe rcreeas ttyo ooruf m Aatrahepe i nnsh sr.eolwatsi oyno uto ScsSCiaqihggtuuhehartgtcrssoeh: asrMei,tz s uPea aasd Gner kuldlisasm nHta csnois edfat on tgGhrdiivaec eGr cdBsah eualalni elpsdr;ti ieen srg;’s s . 00 ymaerdtrseVsASILEIRSMAAPOOGST.O AULOSUO M TPA5A D VThL IOO0UPN i50sY0LeO0íoUSARDRI IOMNAYRDSKRREOOIAORUKV MOUEUROETRECHTHEIOOUUAURATHGINVEASKOEIAPKLAIAOLLOOUIG UPIAMTNOoDURnOaSsOtUiráAkcirMóIpTRoOliPVOOULISLEONIKISSL EOLSF. EYSVOANýS.PFA TnN.LAAA tAPVMGAaFTASAILMEAgSE OSSImAA. TOaOLSGASLEOF. AVRLASDOPTSLIAFIRTAO.DOUOD TTATTISKOUIEOSOLODIPAEUIUKAFAOARIAFIR.AMR CCYVHHSEEIOARMNUMASIIITISpDOLTDSRIEeOGpILTOTLISHeOUU1EOSNS 2a VOPUPPUKA6LlPROKLLLsSOAURO–AAAoSNRNTT3T RASEESII9RDTIIVtIAAAAArAEONLPFeFNEROAeAATOIUGNtNAFON TKEFORLOOROFiSRnUASUTO OTdYRSIZIAS CeORI SrVPUHYROU MEm RKIOYUGRIEDFEMaOROIpOUTR NAT GSTYDAMIANTOOSIOOUUU B 1ATltooohhrnnceee atp acshta eiiMegtgdy heAa costtps ehn1 na2e art6ne r–mes n3 Saa9utrp.rmee. Saebiltegs oFrhei ntsdshd iaoennwr dn Gateway to the magn8ifi8cen t A(cid:4)c ropAoliTsHENS AREA BY AREA For keys to symbols see back flap CENTRAL ATHENS SOUTH (cid:4) 89 Street-by-Street: Monastiráki 2STtTifnuhhth rleiwelsee kegirnte thiduvy- embe tashsyr bc e-eareS ainaprtsi rrtno eeiinogvaee n cmtors ehnM ante hptatahra pdaaetln fvmAodietl althwohpew e not .isfe . s TmOaTotabtaHmobhhrnnhhffoaete oieetddatierxrls ogh lndaen ra e Ftmoemaealesrcnhesemi ls riotKnadietaetsashhre y i nant’suntakseiirriht tyc rennigyA Or aaee erot wis tziutaqi t n hnsnMRmóto iautoon eg opPfattoeo fmnseh mEllo i sl satnTsrwesmquhpa t,oa c seMnlubMeihnwploteío eahea ceposloAecl zr irainaMtMnrtkiganoch nysa.oaaogr out edMssst rf.r Hnu . sta te aRettieoikararhvr hxoraáunáesdeecoemnktkmsarir i uWti Tdyiirsi.ae aan ,tzittT snsinmishikidnnrh s t ’sníáisitidaconeetnn akallnisn ugiulfgraimb,lld át. udrs ahf rTke oer eaae ohoia fssnrsfm me yr cMro efee omjomsu tr so nmitqn hktued hetreeo e l,hri thjbseet oaloawezmrf te as eulaol ernf r kGye.E n O RGIOU KARAEISKRAKIMOPLUAITREIOAONMIAOULI ATHINASERMOAGUIAS EIRINPmtotseohiafatI o eustShnh tnaaat esatráveie sdenDdta eeabo ior tseroysmpse f Aa(nI pnmPOiL atocO libUamoohstuinnueteie alí.rot as cA tf it hhnMiltrsh e áotbo ehk mneki eV)lna o ewii1sroMOttngt0 rhwcirgouitrniio1hagcnTe s,snk h zemdi citnaíitt ua os efKc asgaturittmun seoioyliaatCsn olhr.t tHyrmvre taueshnáioe ehu aoomrrkoa ,f eyamaczu pioruGs.il hóom sclen Ig rMetuuipsones hi tdirn vcooeesohcpt e d dkruihMseanir qg l Fr 8i oGunttuio0n hssr oel01eak ee,Ff 9 te ftuAtooii7hcnnhmrll4eidgkeets.., LSeoec AatChtEoeCNnrETsN R MSTAtRLraeA AepLTt AH FTEiHnNEdSNe SrSO mNUOaTRHpTsH 2, 6 Ais sshuogwgnes itne rde dro.ute for a walk 03K Pttso0hht lynmeraerae y oetFrS edetf Sulurlstíeueeagsnsgaa. h dAg ImMt eavt sihyisaastsee srrp.dky ksae nreurotíttr5,au ir0wcsto5e u0iuhslna itcrdhhlyie n e phgxoe tepanurtdl aosr f IHmnfaaeemíptsahteloa dciu sraat ifAosftt sensD,r mat AhmRareMmneeI gosesdA,ntho r taoaidhNps fst et.ito erOaA áwftrk ir foiUeai nrore sg a oinsd d. 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POIKILIA(Snsec3iee pnSsppt 9A4g–po5rtaa) oertcrDwinicgtpPiEyncOinPoaALhiureMYu ifvEdGBl oINt aNolttmOaeOaoh ihv arr svr NngxTimipD ebiOPidsnAAeUNl dOeSei feegesA aoscPuA EdrhdtL httrOsaaistPth i oI,e .IDhgnfl oAneloonahyedfnfr pc .lan i ocsgwhoA eos rhr Sdn hmenitate dinercrnnaeereetgetter lradyic sntSssoh.th sihe tiFgiMnoneoaoasihnsr gucuinTatrs,drsl r.hp daati isetnbe e cd hmrdrael ceam eTswvAt2sihtnahaniraendueti cdts.f seec1 irup órts be u nrtTcngadsy rnuolicsie o kteswe ohcsuwn.ktheseratsa o ruhalK a,s enrosy eos byrtdfc rru B eotatow iahCisaln tt gteven. oeatooa msWstlns hinarhaeniiesn lr cr sdn eseoeiet o sr HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE (cid:4) 7 1 Introduction MAINLAND GREECE AREA BY AREA (cid:4) 163 Mainland Greece THE PELOPONNESE An introduction covers Area by Area the history, character PELOPONNESE Ote(v4hann-eromei ePr miodelef lo so)t cuhpweseoin d pnpetenrrhinyem oisaneafn s rtiduyhsl emtash t,C roewoon knhrueigincmrhhtnhoe ef nlalid stlftlssrsho a osmmnnhdu otw shrb,ht eaa oi tclmsfth lobea tfeihhniieaenllas dgm nss ado oonm.df ieetshrl aonenf G 1dth8r eb2eey 1mk –t h3sote1sat mtR seepe gverorecel tu6wa-tc.ki ouTmhnla i,r s l y arengdi ogne,o sghroawphinyg o hf oewac h Mintaoin floaunrd r eGgreioencse, ehaacs hb oeef nw hdiicvhid hedas TPbwwbbTtctawrpCBeohootheylyyrrIeohhavwoeundzln eTontiirol aosn va ethAlnatpntdasnradyh tn e areodasoi o,ltgie ca ts” nimftdei,nfsnat o nnh waIgwe riNl elwlsed o teneim mpo c hedcá saí“diairao tsifPo, niors tipr hn-t,hncvear eism dhirel chleicdnlpigteisoeoleiehriiyiee i ip trygplr.ftaosteeelnnaah a hsriono Acgottt t eelithwnii , tfcenuo tailo utmeeAnyrancensnofer,grle t idred. aenmesr meftasR,e pons h enew nmm.eaigr ia xetd”sTet isa iwutmlne aoOv hauyshslsddisesorn e rnlee Nf ltyrnivoauey ee eae lmfeeg tfuddtvna csm hnooatMsu a mptshtFh tfme-el obo“ iur Cyeakod isda scsfcer tlii, u,nat leitano Chestaeaehnssskh’ga nenovnslse icyseas saa dric goitc, ih nlee anae aofo-d.ntl t l d f h t s, CaawbSaKVolPtgmSpoodtnpteeofoeohIas e o nlntdota rcrpltormdhehóng rloer utAipttemenenakeotnhnalrosi eissasi acbr.ie íoctt fnt ar Itnasheemoe es úmhnrnMudsarreanett-eidee ch,ispce mtdd eaO hdas ioehscoM.d,ree r ior thaM-asaeeapdi, tfo tptAitusnro vlne leo auin afetreandmtrrg rchsyehMdworlgeg h ha esamiVe mae neomnoálpe ne y acdhLnrrvmes u snonelotco a aida.horc enl uubsreúbnep aefteaítlnrl s iai optry Metghapiiweitm ao svean aieaB hoynsasaosli rraylensfi;n tetrot floogztsesclr s ,-rwftai srafel drtoácwhi atinooffM oesli rteonffavhtm,sw-edin ifidcaes Gnomr o sinalG t t d lsete mdhfhetwshee re riae,óeyeaoá de o elnesre nikn skrt tpcciriet seo ,ii e s e .en t towvhivsheeita roat tr rihe tt aeoh dhacseaa ysnt .otdu eorviffeeeslr oa tpnheded aacor seveaepsr a coraafn tte hb eceh bfaEoopauoctnhek d.rr.e Aigni omsinda cepa ntoh bfe et hfreosnet identified by its colour coding, shown on the inside front cover. 164 (cid:4) MAINLAND GREECE AREA BY AREA THE PELOPONNESE (cid:4) 165 Exploring the Peloponnese 3RestaOuDurtAvanWiadnotno tre tirraruealbsclefeeli so lvoi tinemterl tt oaho flalkrohi nwigea mtrsibh-iseten rselertwa,nee Me e s toarneieeermtdm ,d vtNAtodaatewTfwaotGMmttPybP(MKK Fadáisoohrhhosaoeennnhefcarffeeníerperieaoaowre iieeynolluýt edddedstvlhekoocjsitnhitr h MRMMSMRo o i’narone gP M oeiptlksppgtlcoe KIMelie te raoaanislt o lPI eeeei3ececgnaiooh hopteimnjieaaunet rnnnlnodá1oiom rloeofs oonnatícpoldvgitdrs ri n rd9agtctrnór vtsaun anir v rannwaar elrr epy ahi)o,ennoaolnraasogsmie taad e nhoeerlas dlAdnsadsowcsaóuneetg sei ur ybssodsso esudet,íbesar odniirann dastr toeeore r,anberetl ryc p st eeo u irsnLdicvh, fba c ainmds ghttn,weotano isea enaieuo einenno rúebkn.ttno latngu a r iseasrtlhwri deTaovtgotnsogi .trArsvade,eo thprrda eauhTac tr r s eaeidaeiNt,u ntdvf s ari nhhn iroGhml htsGeacecatit in daeorrosoeasel .ttbuetsvnenila giurlássa amoaun rwsng rniyaaget mde aa oplsnnigeo dbPsshfe nnsilaht sbi eo n g oeiná onppsooprl sdya sautmlues2 .mttl fariuou n h oyn, r.7hsAfaron t itCttairnbso0dn enhedsneeetlve oo–a aru uato s l edrtfiP7LyumG nrr rdasehst i 1aiáo ogn rnldrbro e ioyrtt aaa etútelttaerrsnyd n yahnllrhehatanis s d seecnhoe ac i e at ,vleoKi ip nrdfeehbntfrt i p iAes rr,tayo.d ,ae u 2aom tF w. tr Gtte 8 hCinfwege o nt7ssao eoiodar,K–hot t.o i rol CCisrrni8nBaiyniRnil nhingtegielHAnonu oldahefsíecaohtrnLSstotr w ohs ta ietiETfloochyyrlha.nesML oud nn eG Ss tdEoltlmtsoeesi aOofn , n .L shc os CTgtÚegklAoyuoLich nPe onTmádinúthceytrhrpkSnarhdA mirv ao afIneii Rtg arnmwisjafhenotoiráooKos hsayemsorsi lA-; 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1 s e,iiB leuTi l ewstvlhla s i elay4 e h treee i 7r a nlk.d slt ee see h g 3 drreee 174(cid:4)MAINLAND GREECE AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp270–71 and pp287–8 0ΟAtesiDMtscEtteohaaomsstoom nnet λmhthrepu AcchiSapυeiapttenseavmuulnμtlrte neenoocaa ssOπ cto rrrral aeeia tyyl(cid:7)nsccHnuydsn α ffaamsiada lldimbcuo dr rre qptyyeeuesrph ueoillnr3oaoiienicgigscs0fnriru reheiitt0O oo lht(a dwea oAuulBned yr ofaDssC cO m bs t rieaam. nihs 1utpB nnh ede1ioMlyiddli aa7dpwrr y tyet i–pai evhenaoc 3toHenmseeshgf8lr j entilZsnose)teol, a ieany wlAtct epeuetmidhaclenhafds lesereoin e,i sce iocdas f ióa c t geacvfe.tiso tmhnhnneMr emeaarteciref orncrt 1iiewrsacutnrde,.e ea0c( agh TisdK tn0gre eoheyo l0cnlaeásroa ef ,h sedy poub.at a eethpfago hd pao3beRhrer rsa0 obo so ,tt– medhceo3geee fa1 us on)sn,n Aerial view south over the Olympia site today LaaTcthqeeup it inaehrer xettdih sos teSattfiha nt 3wvadegrad ihd tuusihi tulmccataihertemdd n deOsi utn Elulcauymtnreirrmvdtayi ilr w vnipoaBneciuanCgasestc.,., e oGO8PPT88p8T@Veearaafurap IamamlmltbmoS ehn2c∑£lp–––nieI6tescTo38i3 2p s Hc1hpnpp:O4 ooa0iTomnmm0sldraetlR e tsIo2m y lTns.dd S2rs2eu&fy–aa7s.6’oe ii5e4Roll2C–ryypu2fom4-S.; Hm. st0C auNhO.a cdnl Eo2eotMpu7. 9 iv mCsO7oelo1–tennKlua1nMy dM pr9,m AL lae.im u pmBrI.pg:sSr4 aii–ecrt.iTneuO d mc.t : A Visitors’ Checklist provides DTPwowhhfeha iZescseie odrmwueria iasana sdt( d’ssiheve ouw.eewg opwe r2is ki4s nspt5hada)toorutpwe o f O(sleyem pp1i7a6 M)useum Main entrance Thius nsdhROeoerwl Ztytc(hsiewcmmo eOsudoatn eseRnlaptsy ,dhspoa t tmtaiauttiemrhnachteri epe adgn dteua ( ioht aiw oaAhnnOeecfemm in dgsoattDs lh.yh c i r esttaiAomseln oeesoi1h tat hman w gps hit0rwputuho tiiepeaom0 graadoordleneeefs)t)ff.,; twhiell pnreaecdti ctoa lp inlafno rymoautri ovnis iyt.ou 4 KEY Greece’s Top Sights For hotels and restaurants see pp270–71 and pp287–8 PTbccoohaoluilxosaer nwetr 00nssha ymtaaasardens raadt edrb set ewsrloaehinnnigc irnh-ejg ucs omucnerprnsoettrurruesn.c dfMtoeerudd wc.th5rh0e eo5s0 ftc lteehrnest, ral Thougainnhdrd oeoi cmtnfaBu TlttyCamehe i mcin Dsbto ,h lo5plteeuthrldh iemecg - s yorctnea eefc cn bmnlZtedaiteopaeusurnleurleyysssr. 1d2bM3to4vs5t678hO90caohtlcoloeyolada ecyt dtu tvPcTTTTTTiTeom SAShev7iesehschhhhhhhmaoeseeltrtpdati,-heneeeeee ul, ap somitltiow po cceehtTTLrHPMcBrfnh to fe modeaereaSIoheoueiIe ek-pda smnoe,Hrf tiuOprae ahtnilena otntonOirallrdpushltod pea eyoiögkyealudr aeln tslpmuliöe wyndsneinr e takoi ste i n.hnf Bgpanoiedueeehurio sotCosi ftiasrnwGoraemsn. rism,,tnHktnuo rra a,iwi-eotni sn, snenngw s hg tecfeohg oriha, caeooiac tdawiutnore eh cethdmdDd ,iuerh ianse. rbde yoi hcnr m tondsneeehsore tfai ,sgo aei ocdu tsstlsenru tsrh n ostgaRemionyheco.rudhr i rnpoi lee ni cnelfsaie tedt.sys ..- TfdMriisnuehi fscsaloelseon persenymecan s togaat etreftrodu eistod ch. t gntaHoee iy avi dr.saebet ntovnoocer u iioascetlnu n tbtephthu peesoil liidrsetr ei mimtinnse geo taaesnrrsr eeta ii o tr e r s .
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