Granite, Fire, & Fog TO M W E S S E L S THE NATURAL AND CULTURAL HISTORY OF A C A D I A Granite, Fire, & Fog T h e N aT u r a l a N d C u lT u r a l h i sT o r y o f a C a d i a • • • uNiversiTy Press of New eNglaNd haNover & loNdoN T o m W e s s e l s Granite, Fire, & Fog University Press of New England www.upne.com © 2017 University Press of New England All rights reserved For permission to reproduce any of the material in this book, contact Permissions, University Press of New England, One Court Street, Suite 250, Lebanon NH 03766; or visit www.upne.com Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data names: Wessels, Tom, 1951– , author. title: Granite, fire, and fog: the natural and cultural history of Acadia / Tom Wessels. description: Hanover: University Press of New England, 2017. | Includes bibliographical references and index. identifiers: lccn 2016038459 (print) | lccn 2016043914 (ebook) | isbn 9781512600087 (pbk.: alk. paper) | isbn 9781512600452 (epub, mobi & pdf) Subjects: lcsh: Natural history —Maine —Acadia National Park. | Natural history — Maine —Mount Desert Island. | Acadia National Park (Me.) — History. | Mount Desert Island (Me.) —History. classification: lcc qh105.m2 w47 2017 (print) | lcc qh105. m2 (ebook) | ddc 508.741/45 —dc23 lc record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016038459 dedicated to friends of acadia and all its volunteers who work for the well-being of the park c o n t e n t s List of Illustrations viii Acknowledgments xi Introduction 1 1 • The Rock of Ages 5 2 • Life Returns 25 3 • The Dawn Land 49 4 • Fire and Fog 59 5 • Pathmakers 74 6 • The 1947 Fire 99 7 • A Look to the Future 110 8 • Let’s Take a Hike 127 appendix a • List of Species 149 appendix b • Glossary 153 Notes 159 Index 161 i l l u s t r at i o n s 10 The Bubbles, classic granite domes 15 Glacial polish on the North Ridge Trail of Champlain Mountain 16 Glacial striations along the Shore Path in Bar Harbor 17 Two crescentic gouges, where the glacial ice advanced from left to right 18 The Beehive 19 A small roche moutonnée with its quarried side on the right 20 A small glacial notch between the summits of Dorr and Cadillac Mountains 22 Balance Rock, a glacial erratic along the Shore Path in Bar Harbor 32 Green map lichen on both sides of a drainage on the north slope of Dorr Mountain 33 Cinder lichen on a diabase dike 34 Black-on-black lichen on the wind-exposed north side of Champlain Mountain 35 Target lichen on the right-hand side of the step 36 Toad skin lichen and plated rock tripe 37 The pincushion-shaped sea foam lichen growing on granite 38 Alpine, green, and common reindeer lichen 40 A crevice community composed of moss, reindeer lichen, and sedges 42 A wind-blasted crevice community composed solely of three-toothed cinquefoil 43 A well-developed lichen outcrop community 57 The Rodick House and formal lawn 61 Advection fog rising over the Beehive and Gorham Mountain 62 Old man’s beard lichen 63 Lungwort lichen on an unusual substrate —granite 64 A flagged red spruce 68 Serotinous cones on a jack pine 69 Jack pine and pitch pine 75 The Eyrie 79 Bates cairns 80 George Bucknam Dorr 81 Sieur de Monts Spring in 1916 83 A section of the granite-slab “sidewalk” on the Beechcroft Path 84 A stairway on the Homans Path 86 The 1916 boundary of Sieur de Monts National Monument 89 John D. Rockefeller Jr. 91 Hemlock Bridge, one of the seventeen carriage road bridges 93 A section of the carriage road built across the talus slope on the northwest side of Jordan Pond 94 Acquisitions making up Acadia National Park between 1916 and 1941 97 Wabanaki summer encampment near Cromwell Brook 102 The De Gregoire Hotel prior to the 1947 fire 103 After the fire: The site where the De Gregoire Hotel once stood
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