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Q US II I · '• ISBN 97 8 - 0 - 393-05069 -l I ' ,,' 'I ' ,.) CA 5 0 I ~ 11 I , Marice! E. Presilla's Gron Coc i ,,1,:- 'iino ''!!1'l ' provides encyclopedic knowledge or thing i:1 '•,11;,.1•11 necessary to master and enjoy the full richness of Latin American cuisine. She leads armchair travel ers, home cooks, and curious food professionals on an epic voyage from the golden cities of colo nial Mexico to the southernmost tip of Argentina's Patagonia ... tasting, sampling, learning each step along the way. T h e beating heart of t his spect acular collec tion of recipes an d tec hniques is an edt1cati on in how Latin Americans ..:ook an d eat . P res illa expertly sorts throug h the as t ounding varieties of local foods and disl1-es to savor th e essential fl avors t h at both uni fy an d disting ui sh Latin foo ds. S h e in tro d L1ces u s to a philosophy of cooking (and eating) t hat in son1e cases start ed w ith pre-Co lt1mbian techniqu es like tl1-e origir1al barbacoa and in othe rs res ts on fl avor bases going all the way back to me d i eva l Spain . Sl1e shows h ow these becam e fu sed with a pan oply of O ld and New World ingre di en ts . l n close to thirty years of research, Presilla traveled to e, ery co unt 1-y of tl1e Spani s h- and P ortug u ese-s peaking 1 Am er icas. Sh e h as feas t ed on g utsy Braz ilian l1on1e n1eal s w ith l1 er favorite t axi driver in Salva dor da Bal1-ia, cooke d in t he SOL1t hern Ect1adoria n And es witl1- m a tr iar cl1s wh o rul e th eir kit chen s with tl1eir regal so up s poons (c ucbaramamas), a nd ea t en inn ovati ve ce bi ch es by lea ding ch efs o n Peru 's vi bran t res t au ran t sce n e . N ow s he brings h er d eep und er standing of mul t ilayered Latin cui si nes to the United St ates , today's privileged n1eeting place for all Lat in cultures . Gran Cor in a Lat i11a is in every way Pres illa's mag·- 11um opus , dest ine d to end L1re as the defi n itive refere n ce for decad es to con1 e . Its m o re th an rec ipes l1 ave bee n 5 00 carefully selecte d to illustrate representative techniques and approacl1es from indi vidua l region s as '~'ell as t o draw atten t io n to recurrent them es lin king 111an y aspects of th e Latin America n culin ary n1 ap . T h ey cove r d is h es ra ngi ng fr o m empanadas an d tamales to sa lads , breads , an d desserts . address ing both the novice ho1ne cook and the seaso ned ch ef You wi ll enter the world of Lat in t ab le co nd i1n en ts , co lor ft1l inft1sed oils , "big soups," and u11iq ue hot pe pper pots . I [ wi learn tl1e basics of dealing witl1 yt1ca, cocon uts. and \ OLl lime t1·e ated Andean corn (1no te) . Yot1 w ill d iscove r new to tl1i s cot1ntry- flavo1·s like go lden 1r1ira~·o l dried ppn pers. tl1 e lL1s ciot1s n1a n1ev frt1 it . tl1e st1bt le An d.ea n •,·ab le 1,, 1 \ 1'1.1 ./ '\ ca ll ed .1rracacha , and the m c1ny wonde1·ft1l var1 1· 1 1rti - , 1 · ,, .'l,1n,1l Latin brown loaf sugar. Yot1 can sa n1p le str, , ,·, \ke 1 .S,1lv,1doriar1 ht,t c tl1e cob witl1 a w l1olc ,1rsena 1.r ir11 011 , ,11, \l C> ,-.J [INl Ill <>N ll .~lls. 11 /\1'1 • • • m e r 1 c a Photographs by Gentl & Hyers/ Edge Food Styling by Andrea Gentl Drawings by Julio Figueroa W. W . NORTON & COMPANY LONDON NEW YORK • Copyright © 2012 by Marice] E. Presilla Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Pl1otograph copyright© 2012 by Gentl & H ers 11 Presilla, Marice! E. Illu strations copyright© 2012 by Julio Figu eroa Gran cocina latina : the food of Latin America / Maricel E. Presilla ; photography by Gent] & Hyers11Edge; illustrations by All rights reser·v-ed Julio Figueroa. - 1st ed. Pri11ted in the U11ited States of America Fir t Edition p. cm. Includes index. For information about perrr1ission to reproduce selections from ISBN 978-0-393-05069-1 (hardcover) this book, ,,_,rite to Permissions. W. W. Norton & Company, Inc., :)/10 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110 1. Cooking, Latin A1nerican. 2. Cooking, Caribbean. 3. Cooking, Mexican. I. Title. For i11forn1at1on about special discounts for bulk purchases, TX716.AIP746 2012 please contact W. W. Nortor1 Special Sales 641.5972-dc23 at pecialsales@w\\' norcon.com or 800-233-4830 2012017701 Manufacturi11g by Courier Kendallville Book design by Beth Tondreau W. W. Norton & Con1pany, Inc. C artographl' by Adrian Kitzinger 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10110 Prodt1ct1on manager: A11na Oler www.wwnorton.com W. W. Norton & Con1pai1y Led. Castle House, 75/76 Wells Street, Londo11 Wl T 3QT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 To 111y l1usband, Aleja11d1·0 Presilla, n1y No1·tl1 Stai· i11 all \1/eatl1er, for l,elievi11.g i11 this 1ife-c11.a11ging jol1rney. Witl1 gratitude to 111y pare11ts, Angelica Pa1·lade a11d Isn1ael Espinosa , fo1· t-eeding 11Jy curiousity a11d 111akir1g n1e believe even s0111eor1e 601·n on a11 island co11ld eat tl1e ,vorld . To the taxi drivers of Lati11 An1erica, tl1-e best ct1lina1·y tot1r gl1ides in tl1e world. • JOURNEY OF THE SAPOARA FOREWORD • 1 MAPS OF LATIN AMERICA 3 WHAT IS LATIN AMERICA? CHAPTER 1 • 7 THE LATIN KITCHEN CHAPTER 2 • 15 3 • THE LAYERS OF LATIN FLAVOR 35 CHAPTER 4 • TABLE CON DIM ENTS CHAPTER 107 5 • TROPICAL ROOTS AND CHAPTER STARCHY VEGET'ABLES 157 6 • SQUASHES, CORN, QUINOA, CHAPTER AND BEANS 217 7 • RICE CHAPTER 285 8 • DRINKS CHAPTER 325 g • LITTLE LATIN DISHES CHAPTER 369 • \ ' I • EMPANADAS 405 CHAPTER 10 • THE TAMAL FAMILY 439 CHAPTER 11 • CEBICHES 477 CHAPTER 12 • 13 • LA OLLA: Soups and Hearty Potages 497 CHAPTER 14 • SALADS 541 CHAPTER 15 • BREADS 565 CHAPTER 16 • FISH AND SEAFOOD 601 CHAPTER 17 • POULTRY 647 CHAPTER 18 • MEAT 689 CHAPTER 19 • HOT PEPPER POTS: Secos, Saices, Adobos, CHAPTER Picantes, Sajtas, Pepianes, and Moles 741 20 • DULCE LATINO 787 CHAPTER 859 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 865 INDEX 896 INDEX TO RECIPES IN SPANISH • • CONTE NT S • Vll