Gone to the Swamp You are reading copyrighted material published by the University of Alabama Press. Any posting, copying, or distributing of this work beyond fair use as defined under U.S. Copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. For permission to reuse this work, contact the University of Alabama Press. Map of some logging relics. 1. Hubbard Landing; 2. Bryant’s Upper Landing; 3. Mast Tree; 4. Champion Cypress; 5. Boat Ways; 6. Pullboat; 7. Bryant’s Lower Landing; 8. Hubbard Landing Rangia Stratum (Courtesy of Robert Leslie Smith) You are reading copyrighted material published by the University of Alabama Press. Any posting, copying, or distributing of this work beyond fair use as defined under U.S. Copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. For permission to reuse this work, contact the University of Alabama Press. Gone to the Swamp Raw Materials for the Good Life in the M obile- Tensaw Delta Robert Leslie Smith THE UNIVERSITY OF ALABAMA PRESS Tuscaloosa You are reading copyrighted material published by the University of Alabama Press. Any posting, copying, or distributing of this work beyond fair use as defined under U.S. Copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. For permission to reuse this work, contact the University of Alabama Press. Publication of this book is made possible by a grant from the Snook Foundation Copyright © 2008 Stockton Civic Club The University of Alabama Press Tuscaloosa, Alabama 35487-0380 All rights reserved Manufactured in the United States of America Typeface: ACaslon ∞ The paper on which this book is printed meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information S ciences- Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI Z39.48-1984. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Smith, Robert Leslie, 1918– Gone to the swamp : raw materials for the good life in the Mobile-Tensaw Delta / Robert Leslie Smith. p. cm. “Fire Ant Books.” ISBN 978-0-8173-5494-7 (pbk. : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8173-8069-4 (electronic) 1. Smith, Robert Leslie, 1918– 2. Smith, Robert Leslie, 1918–— Family. 3. Pioneers—Alabama—Baldwin County—Biography. 4. Baldwin County (Ala.)—Social life and customs. 5. Mobile-Tensaw Delta (Ala.)—Social life and customs. 6. Country life—Alabama—Mobile-Tensaw Delta. 7. Outdoor life— Alabama—Mobile-Tensaw Delta. 8. Swamps—Alabama—Mobile-Tensaw Delta. 9. Baldwin County (Ala.)—Biography. 10. Mobile-Tensaw Delta (Ala.)—Biography. I. Title. F332.B2S63 2008 975.8′57304—dc22 2007050824 Photographs Photographs appearing in this work have been collected from various sources. When known, credit is given to the photographer. Any time period shown directly in the caption refers to the central subject of the photograph. To public timber inspectors G reat- Uncle Hector Augustus Smith and Uncle John Wesley Smith who left me a legacy of integrity and public trust, and to my father, Robert Augustus Smith, who taught me to cherish this legacy. You are reading copyrighted material published by the University of Alabama Press. Any posting, copying, or distributing of this work beyond fair use as defined under U.S. Copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. For permission to reuse this work, contact the University of Alabama Press. Contents Preface vii Acknowledgments ix Introduction xi Gone to the Swamp 1 The Skin Game 15 The Public Timber Inspector 19 Oxen and the Men Who Drove Them 29 High Water Logging 42 Rafting and Loading Gunboats 48 Work of the Blacksmith 54 A Personal Note 59 Work of the Sawyer 61 Camp Life 66 Night Rafting 74 Kingfi sher 77 The Yupon 81 Aunt Violet Boston 86 River Tale 88 Wildcats 92 Lost in the Swamp 94 Fear Strikes the Bend 96 You are reading copyrighted material published by the University of Alabama Press. Any posting, copying, or distributing of this work beyond fair use as defined under U.S. Copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. For permission to reuse this work, contact the University of Alabama Press. vi / Contents Swamp Tale 98 The Kennedy Mills 102 Sawmill Tales 109 Sawmill Tales Continued 111 Logging in Blakeley Battleground 113 Mechanized Logging 115 Flatboats 131 Stockton Boat Ways 146 Latter Day Watermen 149 Latter Day Pullboating 151 The Last Watermen 154 Other Swamp Stories 159 Recovery of a Union Mortar in the Delta 163 Famous Trees 170 Oil in the Delta 182 Hubbard Landing 185 An Alabama State Treasure 198 The Old Ways 206 County Surveyor 215 Hunting Camp Life 217 The McGowan Compass 219 Dixie Landing 222 The Art and Practice of Hollering 230 United States Reserve Fleet 233 Delta Elementary School 238 How to Build a Double Ender 241 Construction of a Flatboat 248 Glossary 253 You are reading copyrighted material published by the University of Alabama Press. Any posting, copying, or distributing of this work beyond fair use as defined under U.S. Copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. For permission to reuse this work, contact the University of Alabama Press. Preface Latham, Alabama Winter 2002–2003 My Family and Friends: An era has passed in which most of the families of North Baldwin County took their living directly from the land. They sowed seeds in the earth, harvested wild animals for food and skins, grazed their do- mestic animals on the wild grass, cut virgin timber, and transported its products to markets which were necessarily downstream. They were dependent on and at the mercy of seasons, weather, and chance. The M obile- Tensaw River Delta, “The Swamp,” was a rich source of raw materials for the good life, but it exacted its price from those who came to claim them— yellow fever, malaria, exposure to the elements, and backbreaking toil. My parents and their forebears were of those who took from the swamp and paid its price. I took another path in life but observed and remembered some of what I saw. Today the delta bids fair to become a playground, a recreation area for those with leisure. I fi nd this prospect fi tting and proper. Lately, I have felt the need to record—f or those to come— some re- membrances of a time when the delta was not a playground. The remem- brances fi ll these pages. Sincerely, Robert Leslie Smith You are reading copyrighted material published by the University of Alabama Press. Any posting, copying, or distributing of this work beyond fair use as defined under U.S. Copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. For permission to reuse this work, contact the University of Alabama Press. You are reading copyrighted material published by the University of Alabama Press. Any posting, copying, or distributing of this work beyond fair use as defined under U.S. Copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. For permission to reuse this work, contact the University of Alabama Press. Acknowledgments Even a modest publication such as this one requires the help of many people, and I thank them for that help. I can name many but not all: Dr. Sue Brannan Walker, who caused me to do this writing in the fi rst place; Joyce Eloise Sutton, who in a struggle with my longhand, typed and constructed the book; her sister, Mary Katherine Steedley, retired Supervisor of English and Social Studies for Baldwin County Board of Education, who undangled my participles and did sister Joyce’s house- work to free her to “make book”; Dalton James Smith, Harry Davis Smith, William Edward Slaughter, and William E. “Red” Long, who contributed chapters; Thomas Hastie Gause who wrote comments; James Arthur Bryars III, who recalled swamp stories of Baldwin County Hunt- ing Club days; Robert Bryant, Davida Richerson Hastie, and Tom Gandy, who read drafts and offered suggestions and comments; Raymond Rich Kennedy, who told the Ghost Fleet story; Floyd Morris, who told Mary Rine’s story; Jerry Sherrell, Claudia Slaughter Campbell and her sister, Marilyn Slaughter Davidson, R. L. “Dick” Cox and his wife Margaret, Percy Bryars Cox and his wife Edith, Randolph McGowan and his wife Janice, Mac M. Chastang, and Hattie Smith, who provided many photo- graphs and much encouragement; Shirley Mathews for key pieces of in- formation; Dr. Carl M. Booth, Kenneth Bohnenstiehl, and Dr. Kathryn “Kitty” Barchard Callaway for critical reading and encouragement; and Dianne Crabtree for technical assistance. I wish especially to thank W. Keith Gauldin for interest he showed by reading my material andi for his assistance and encouragement and pro- viding photographs. You are reading copyrighted material published by the University of Alabama Press. Any posting, copying, or distributing of this work beyond fair use as defined under U.S. Copyright law is illegal and injures the author and publisher. For permission to reuse this work, contact the University of Alabama Press.
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