Global Production: The Apparel Industry in the Pacific Rim

402 Pages·1994·23.15 MB·English

by  Edna Bonacich

GLfOBAL PRODUCTION

Global
Production
The Apparel Industry
in the Pacific Rim
EDITED BY
Edna Bonacich Lucie Cheng,
J,
Norma Chinchilla, Nora Hamnton,
and Paul Ong
iii
Temple UniversityPress I Philadelphia
TempleUniversityPress,Philadelphia19122
Copyright©1994byTempleUniversity
Published1994
PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica
ThepaperusedinthispublicationmeetstheminimumrequirementsofAmerican
NationalStandardforInformationSciences- PermanenceofPaperforPrintedLibrary
Materials,ANSIZ39.48-1984@
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData
Globalproduction:theapparelindustryinthePacificRim/edited
byEdnaBonacich... [eta1.].
p. cm.
Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.
ISBN1-56639-168-7.-ISBN1-56639-169-5(pbk.)
1. Womenclothingworkers-PacificArea. 2. Clothingworkers
PacificArea. 3. Clothingtrade-PacificArea. 4. Womenclothing
workers-Developingcountries. 5. Clothingworkers-Developing
countries. 6. Clothingtrade-Developingcountries. 7. Women
clothingworkers- UnitedStates. 8. Clothingworkers- United
States. 9. Clothingtrade-UnitedStates. I. Bonacich,Edna.
HD6073.C62P164 1994
331.4'87'099-dc20 93-36974
Contents
Acknowledgments ix
Introduction
1 The GarmentIndustryinthe Restru(:turingGlobal
Economy 3
Edna Bonacich, Lucie Cheng, Norrrra Chinchilla,
Nora Hamilton, andPaul Ong
I Patterns and Linl~ages
2 Mapping a Global Industry: ApparelProductioninthe
Pacific RimTriangle 21
Edna Bonacich andDavid V. Waller
3 Powerand Profitsinthe Apparel COlnmodityChain 42
RichardP. Appelbaum and GaryGereffi
4 U.S. Retailers and Asian GarmentProduction 63
LucieChengandGaryGereffi
5 TheRole ofU.S. ApparelManufactulrersinthe
Globalizationofthe IndustryintheF'acific Rim 80
Edna Bonacich andDavid V. Waller
II Asia
6 TheDevelopmentProcessofthe HonJ~Kong Garment
Industry: AMatureIndustryin a Ne1MlyIndustrialized
Economy 105
Ho-FukLau andChi-Fai Chan
I'
vi / Contents
7 TheGlobalizationofTaiwan's GarmentIndustry 126
GaryGereffiandMei-Lin Pan
8 TheKorean GarmentIndustry: FromAuthoritarian
Patriarchismto IndustrialPaternalism 147
SeungHoon LeeandHo Keun Song
9 ThePhilippineGarmentIndustry 162
Rosalinda Pineda Ofreneo
10 Thailand inthe Pacific Rim GarmentIndustry 180
RichardF. DonerandAnsilRamsay
11 The GarmentIndustryinSingapore:Clothesfor the
Emperor 197
Sara U. Douglas, Stephen A. Douglas, and
ThomasJ. Finn
III Mexico, CentralAmerica, andtheCaribbean
12 TheApparelMaquiladoraIndustryattheMexican
Border 217
Jorge Carrillo V.
13 Industrial OrganizationandMexico-U.S. FreeTrade:
Evidencefrom theMexican GarmentIndustry 230
Gordon H. Hanson
14 ExportManufacturing, StatePolicy, andWomenWorkers
intheDominicanRepublic 247
Helen 1. Safa
15 TheMaquilaRevolutioninGuatemala 268
Kurt Petersen
16 The GarmentIndustryandEconomicRestructuringin
Mexico andCentralAmerica 287
Norma Chinchilla andNora Hamilton
Contents I vii
IV TheUnitedStates
17 LaborSqueezeandEthniclRacialRecompositioninthe
U.S. ApparelIndustry 309
Evelyn BlumenbergandPaul Ong
18 RecentManufacturingChangesintine U.S. Apparel
Industry:TheCaseofNorthCarolina 328
Ian M. Taplin
19 ImmigrantEnterprise and Laborin1heLos Angeles
GarmentIndustry 345
James Loucky, Maria Soldatenko, (Jregory Scott, and
Edna Bonacich
Conclusion
20 The GarmentIndustry, NationalDe"elopment, and
LaborOrganizing 365
Edna Bonacich, Lucie Cheng, Norlna Chinchilla,
Nora Hamilton, andPaul Ong
List ofContributors 375
Index 377

l'ckno-wledgDlents
This volume grew out ofa grant from the University ofCalifornia's
Pacific Rim Research Program. The grant enabled us to call together
two meetings ofscholars studyingthis industry: an organizingmeet
ing, in May 1991, and a conference, The Globalization of the Gar
ment Industry in the Pacific Rim, to present final reports, in May
1992. In addition, the grant supported research assistance for the
University ofCaliforniafaculty (Bonacicl:L, Cheng, and Ong).
The grant was administered through tIle UCLA Center for Pacific
Rim Studies, whose able staff (including Fauolegogo Tanielu, Sue
Fan,andScottGruber) didallthe organizingworkforbothmeetings.
In addition, they kept our books in order. The editing ofthe manu
scriptwas organizedby LeslieEvans ofthleCenterand implemented
byPatriciaRyan. We are grateful to all these people for their invalu
able assistance.
Several people made important contributions to the conference,
either as participants or as discussants. ~rhey include David Young
and Steve Nutter of the International Ladies' Garment Workers
Union,garmentworkersRicardoZaladaandAliciaZamora,andpro
fessors Elizabeth Petras, Roger Waldinger, Raoul Hinojosa, Eun-Mee
Kim, and Nancy Wiegersma. We would like to thank all of them,
particularly Betty Petras and Nan Wiegersma, who participated ac
tivelythroughout the conference.