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Global Luxury Trends: Innovative Strategies for Emerging Markets PDF

276 Pages·2013·1.63 MB·English
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GLOBAL LUXURY TRENDS This page intentionally left blank GLOBAL LUXURY TRENDS Innovative Strategies for Emerging Markets Edited by Jonas Hoffmann Associate Professor of Marketing, SKEMA Business School, France and Ivan Coste-Manière Professor of Marketing, SKEMA Business School, France Selectionandeditorialmatter©JonasHoffmannand IvanCoste-Manière2013 Individualchapters©individualcontributors2013 Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 2013 978-1-137-28738-0 Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthis publicationmaybemadewithoutwrittenpermission. Noportionofthispublicationmaybereproduced,copiedortransmitted savewithwrittenpermissionorinaccordancewiththeprovisionsofthe Copyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988,orunderthetermsofanylicence permittinglimitedcopyingissuedbytheCopyrightLicensingAgency, SaffronHouse,6–10KirbyStreet,LondonEC1N8TS. Anypersonwhodoesanyunauthorizedactinrelationtothispublication maybeliabletocriminalprosecutionandcivilclaimsfordamages. Theauthorshaveassertedtheirrightstobeidentifiedastheauthorsofthis workinaccordancewiththeCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988. Firstpublished2013by PALGRAVEMACMILLAN PalgraveMacmillanintheUKisanimprintofMacmillanPublishersLimited, registeredinEngland,companynumber785998,ofHoundmills,Basingstoke, HampshireRG216XS. PalgraveMacmillanintheUSisadivisionofStMartin’sPressLLC, 175FifthAvenue,NewYork,NY10010. PalgraveMacmillanistheglobalacademicimprintoftheabovecompanies andhascompaniesandrepresentativesthroughouttheworld. Palgrave®andMacmillan®areregisteredtrademarksintheUnitedStates, theUnitedKingdom,Europeandothercountries. ISBN 978-1-349-44968-2 ISBN 978-1-137-28739-7 (eBook) DOI 10.1057/9781137287397 Thisbookisprintedonpapersuitableforrecyclingandmadefromfully managedandsustainedforestsources.Logging,pulpingandmanufacturing processesareexpectedtoconformtotheenvironmentalregulationsofthe countryoforigin. AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary. AcatalogrecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheLibraryofCongress. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 CONTENTS ListofFiguresandTables vii NotesonContributors ix INTRODUCTION 1 JonasHoffmannandIvanCoste-Manière 1 ON LUXURY STRATEGIZING 6 JonasHoffmann 2 PATHS FOR THE EMERGENCE OF GLOBAL CHINESE LUXURY BRANDS 23 JonasHoffmannandBetinaHoffmann 3 LUXO BRASIL AND OSKLEN’S NEW LUXURY 37 JonasHoffmann 4 ÜBER LUXURY: FOR BILLIONAIRES ONLY 51 AlessandroQuintavalle 5 OCCUPATION FASHION BLOGGING: RELATION BETWEEN BLOGS AND LUXURY FASHION BRANDS 77 RasaStankeviciute 6 ENGAGINGWITHTHELUXURYCONSUMERIN CHINA 89 KatrinaPanchout 7 LUXURYANDARTSINCHINA:THEISLAND6CASE 101 CamilleJaganathen v CONTENTS 8 LUXURY SHOPPING PLACES IN CHINA 114 JoannaChen 9 PERSPECTIVES ON LUXURY OPERATIONS IN CHINA 126 YvesR.LuckyandFrancescoGilibertiBirindelli 10 LUXURY CONSUMER TRIBES IN ASIA: INSIGHTS FROM SOUTH KOREA 138 BernardCovaandTaeYounKim 11 LUXURY IN RUSSIA AND IN COUNTRIES OF EASTERN EUROPE 155 LaurentLecamp 12 LUXURY IN INDIA: SEDUCTION BY HYPNOTIC SUBTLETY 171 SandeepVij 13 POLO AS A VEHICLE FOR COMMUNICATING LUXURY 185 IvanCoste-Manière,AnnaHoarauandCedricLaforge 14 MIMESIS AND THE NEXUS OF LUXURY INDUSTRY IN INDIA 201 MuktaRamchandani 15 TESLA MOTORS, THE REINVENTION OF THE LUXURY SPORTS CAR INDUSTRY 209 DanielaMilosheska 16 WHY BUY LUXURY? INSIGHTS FROM CONSUMER RESEARCH 224 MaureenMorrin 17 ELIE SAAB: STRATEGIC PRESENCE IN THE DIGITAL LUXURY SPACE 242 RasaStankeviciute Index 259 vi FIGURES AND TABLES FIGURES I.1 Globalluxurytrends 2 1.1 Componentsofabusinessmodel 7 2.1 Orientationofluxuryvaluepropositions 25 2.2 Cyruslogo 29 4.1 LuxurymarketversusfinancialwealthandHNWIsgrowth(base 100in2000) 53 4.2 HNWIsversusbillionaires’growth(base100in2000) 54 4.3 Billionaires’distributionbyregion(2012) 55 4.4 Mainwatch-exportingcountries 63 4.5 HAGITopIndexversusS&P500growth(base100in1980) 66 4.6 HAGITopandotherassetclasses(base100in1980) 66 7.1 CharlestonCraze 106 8.1 LuxuryshoppingareaalongNangjingXiroad,Shanghai 117 13.1 Backes&StraussClockduringtheBritishPoloDayinSingapore 188 13.2 Backes&StraussRegentFancyCanary 189 14.1 Processofmimeticdesire 202 15.1 TeslaRoadster 211 15.2 DriverimageryoftheTeslabrand 212 15.3 Tesla’slogo 217 15.4 Tesla’snewestmodel:TheModelS 218 15.5 Tesla’spatents 219 17.1 ThegrowthofELIESAABFacebookfans-base 244 17.2 ThegrowthofELIESAABTwitterfollowers-base 245 17.3 ELIESAABstoriesintheformofvideos:BaladeÀParis(I) 250 17.4 ELIESAABstoriesintheformofvideos:BaladeÀParis(II) 250 vii 17.5 ELIESAABstoriesintheformofvideos:ELIESAABshowthrough theeyesofRosarioDawson,KarlieKloss,ReneCelestin 251 17.6 ELIESAABstoriesintheformofvideos:Againstthefallofthenight 251 17.7 ThedifferenceinaveragetimespentonELIESAABwebsitebynew andreturningvisitors 252 17.8 Thecomparisonoftheuserengagementrates(C-Rate)for commentsforCHRISTIANDIOR,BURBERRYandELIESAAB 255 17.9 Thecomparisonoftheuserengagementrates(P-Rates)for post-likesforCHRISTIANDIOR,BURBERRYandELIESAAB 256 TABLES 3.1 TRACESassessmentofOskleneproductslifecycledonebythe ItalianMinistryfortheEnvironment,LandandSea(IMELS), Institutoe,ForumdasAmericasandwiththecollaborationof Senai-Cetiqt 46 10.1 Famousconsumertribesstudiedinmarketing 140 10.2 Famousbrandcommunitiesstudiedinmarketing 141 10.3 TribalmanagementmodelatDucati 142 viii CONTRIBUTORS EDITORS Dr. Jonas Hoffmann is Associate Professor of Marketing at SKEMA Business School in France. He has extensive experience in consulting and executive training, and has been a speaker at inter- national luxury events. He has written several articles about mar- ketingandinnovationintheluxuryindustry.Heistheco-editorof LuxuryStrategyinAction. Dr. Ivan Coste-Manière has extensive experience in the luxury industry; he has created eight companies in the fragrance, watches and marketing sector. He is Professor of Marketing and Director of the Master of Science in Luxury and Fashion Management at SKEMA Business School in France. He is the co-editor of Luxury StrategyinAction. CO-AUTHORS Joanna Chen holds a master’s degree in Fashion Strategy Manage- ment. She is an expert in luxury retail-network improvement and luxury-malls creation in China. Based in Shanghai, China, she is nowinchargeofanewprojectofHangLungProperties. Bernard Cova is Professor of Marketing at Euromed Management, Marseilles, France, and Visiting Professor at Università Bocconi, Milan, Italy. A pioneer in the consumer tribes field since the early 1990s,hisinternationallyinfluentialresearchhasemphasizedwhat hecalls“theMediterraneanapproach”oftribalmarketing. ix

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