Global Luxury: Organizational Change and Emerging Markets since the 1970s PDF
Preview Global Luxury: Organizational Change and Emerging Markets since the 1970s
Global Luxury (cid:129) Pierre-Yves Donzé Rika Fujioka Editors Global Luxury Organizational Change and Emerging Markets since the 1970s Editors Pierre-YvesDonzé RikaFujioka OsakaUniversity KansaiUniversity Toyonaka,Osaka Suita,Osaka Japan Japan ISBN978-981-10-5235-4 ISBN978-981-10-5236-1 (eBook) DOI10.1007/978-981-10-5236-1 LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2017950803 ©TheEditor(s)(ifapplicable)andTheAuthor(s)2018 Thisworkissubjecttocopyright.AllrightsaresolelyandexclusivelylicensedbythePublisher, whetherthewholeorpartofthematerialisconcerned,specificallytherightsoftranslation, reprinting,reuseofillustrations,recitation,broadcasting,reproductiononmicrofilmsorinany otherphysicalway,andtransmissionorinformationstorageandretrieval,electronicadaptation, computersoftware,orbysimilarordissimilarmethodologynowknownorhereafterdeveloped. Theuseofgeneraldescriptivenames,registerednames,trademarks,servicemarks,etc.inthis publicationdoesnotimply,evenintheabsenceofaspecificstatement,thatsuchnamesare exemptfromtherelevantprotectivelawsandregulationsandthereforefreeforgeneraluse. Thepublisher,theauthorsandtheeditorsaresafetoassumethattheadviceandinformationin thisbookarebelievedtobetrueandaccurateatthedateofpublication.Neitherthepublisher northeauthorsortheeditorsgiveawarranty,expressorimplied,withrespecttothematerial contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Coverillustration:©blackred/GettyImages Printedonacid-freepaper ThisPalgraveimprintispublishedbySpringerNature TheregisteredcompanyisSpringerNatureSingaporePteLtd. The registered company address is: 152 Beach Road, #21-01/04 Gateway East, Singapore 189721,Singapore P A REFACE AND CKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thisbookresultsfromseveralyearsofjointresearchonthebusinesshistoryof fashion,apparelandluxuryindustriesbythetwoeditors.Webenefittedfrom thesupportof severalinstitutions, particularly theCARIS Project(Competi- tiveAdvantageofRegionsandIndustries),fundedbytheJapaneseSocietyfor thePromotionofScience(Grant-in-AidforScientificResearch(A)23243055, ledbyTakafumiKurosawa,professoratKyotoUniversity,theDS-LABProject (Practicalscienceapproachesfordataminingbusinessapplications)atKansai University,supportedbytheJapaneseMinistryofEducation,Culture,Sports, ScienceandTechnologyforStrategicCollaborationbetweenPrivateUniver- sities,andtheUniversityofNeuch^atel(Switzerland). The editors have organized two meetings and gathered numerous scholarsfrom management and business history to discuss the process and challengesoftheglobalizationoftheluxuryindustrysincethe1970s.The first took place at the University of Neuch^atel in November 2014 and the second in Kyoto in August 2015, as a session of the World Economic History Congress (WEHC). We thank all the participants to these events fortheircontributiontolivelyandfruitfuldiscussions.Theeditorshavethen selected some of the papers given at these meetings and invited additional scholarstojointheteamandcontributewithaspecificchapterinorderto offer avolumethat tackleswith consistency themajor issuesrelatedtothe globalizationofluxurybusiness. March2017 OsakaandRotterdam v C ONTENTS 1 Introduction 1 Pierre-YvesDonzéandRikaFujioka PartI OrganizationalChange 17 2 TheBirthofLuxuryBigBusiness:LVMH, RichemontandKering 19 Pierre-YvesDonzé 3 ItalianLuxuryGoodsIndustryontheMove: SMEsandGlobalValueChains 39 ElisabettaMerlo 4 LuxuryBrandOutsiders:UnderstandingtheSuccess ofBritishandAmericanLuxuryBrands 65 StephenA.DoyleandChristopherM.Moore 5 Champagne,BetweenTerroirandLuxury,1945–2014 87 YvesTesson vii viii CONTENTS PartII Markets 109 6 ChristianDior-NewYork:FrenchFashion intheLuxuryUSMarket 111 VéroniquePouillard 7 TheDemocratisationofLuxuryandtheExpansion oftheJapaneseMarket,1960–2010 133 RikaFujioka,ZhenLi,andYutaKaneko 8 HowDuty-FreeShopsandDepartmentStoresExpanded theLuxuryMarketinSouthKorea,1980–2010 157 InsooBaekandRikaFujioka 9 HowtoEntertheChineseLuxuryMarket?TheExample ofSwatchGroup 177 Pierre-YvesDonzé PartIII NewStrategies 195 10 CraftingTime,MakingLuxury:TheHeritage SystemandArtisanRevivalintheSwissWatch Industry,1975–2015 197 HervéMunz 11 LuxuryBrandsandPublicMuseums:FromAnniversary ExhibitionstoCo-branding 219 KarinaPronitcheva 12 “ExclusivelyfortheHappyFew”:LuxuryHotels andGlobalisation:TheEmergenceofaNewSector (1980–2010)? 239 LaurentTissot CONTENTS ix 13 TheSurvivalStrategyoftheJapaneseKimonoIndustry 257 TomokoHashino 14 Conclusions 275 RikaFujiokaandPierre-YvesDonzé Index 281 N C OTES ON ONTRIBUTORS Insoo Baek is a retail specialist. He works at Electroland as an executive managingdirectorinKorea.PriortojoiningElectroland,hewastheDirec- tor of the Retail Strategy Institute at Lotte, which is the largest retail conglomerate in Korea, and served as a key member in developing pivotal businessmodelsincludingthelaunchingofnewretailoutletsandtheOmni Channel Project. He received his PhD from Waseda University, Japan, in 2003withadissertationon‘TheEvolutionaryProcessofRetailFormatin Korea’. He was a visiting Professor in the MBA program at Hanyang University in 2013 and Soongsil University in 2014–2015. He recently published the translated book Selling the Lifestyle, which introduces the managementoftheTsutayachaininJapan. Pierre-YvesDonzé isaProfessorofBusinessHistoryatOsakaUniversity (Japan)andavisitingprofessorattheUniversityofFribourg(Switzerland). HeismemberofthecouncilsoftheEuropeanBusinessHistoryAssociation and the Business History Society of Japan. His research focuses on the business history of fashion and luxury, the history of multinational enter- prises, and the business history of medicine. He recently published A Business History of the Swatch Group: The Rebirth of Swiss Watchmaking and the Globalization of the Luxury Industry (Palgrave Macmillan, 2014) andL’inventionduluxe:histoiredel’horlogerieàGenèvede1815ànosjours (2017). xi xii NOTESONCONTRIBUTORS StephenDoyle isaSeniorLecturerinFashionMarketingandSustainabil- ityLeadintheSchoolofMaterials,ManchesterUniversity.Priortothis,he has held positions at Glasgow Caledonian University, Edinburgh Napier University and Stirling University. Currently, his key areas of teaching are focusedupondigitalbranding,designandproductdevelopmentwithinthe fashionandluxurysectors.Currentresearchprojectsfocusupontheroleof thestoreinadigitalworldandmanifestationsofbrandoriginsandnation- ality.HesitsontheEditiorialBoardsoftheJournalofTextileEngineering andFashionTechnologyandtheJournalofTextileScienceandEngineering. Heisalsoafreelancebrandanddesignconsultant. Rika Fujioka is a Professor of Macro-marketing at Kansai University, Japan. She is a council member of both the Business History Society of Japan and the Japan Society of Marketing and Distribution. While her academic base lies in marketing, Rika’s research activities have extended into business history. She is now a principal investigator for a project on ‘Changing Competitiveness of Japanese Retailers and Fashion Industry under Globalisation’, which is supported by the Japan Society for the Promotion of Science. Her publications include ‘European luxury big business and emerging Asian markets, 1960–2010’, Business History (2015,withPierre-Yves Donzé), TheDevelopment ofDepartmentStoresin Japan (in Japanese), (Yuhikaku, 2006), and Comparative Responses to Globalization: Experiences of British and Japanese Enterprises (Palgrave Macmillan,2013,editedwithMakiUmemura). TomokoHashino isaProfessorofEconomicHistoryatKobeUniversity. Herresearchinterestsareintheevolutionaryprocessofthetextileindustry inJapanaswellasthedevelopmenthistoryofweavingdistrictsinJapan.Her recent articles have appeared in the Economic History Review, the Business HistoryReview,theAustralianEconomicHistoryReview,andtheJournalof the Japanese and International Economies. Professor Hashino received her PhD in economics from Hitotsubashi University in 2003. She has been a visitingfellowattheUniversityofNewSouthWales,theLondonSchoolof Economics and Political Science, George Washington University, and StanfordUniversity. Yuta Kaneko is a postdoctoral fellow at the Data Science Laboratory, Kansai University in Japan. He received his ME from Yokohama National University, Japan in 2010. He was awarded his PhD in science by the
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