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Global Appetites: American Power and the Literature of Food PDF

262 Pages·2013·5.53 MB·English
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more information – www.cambridge.org/9781107032828 GLOBAL APPETITES Global Appetites explores how industrial agriculture and countercul- tural food movements shape ideas of U.S. hegemony in the century since the First World War. Allison Carruth’s study centers on the “literatureoffood”–abodyofworkthatcomprisesliteraryrealism, latemodernism,andmagicalrealismalongwithculinarywriting,food memoir,andadvertising.ThroughanalysisoftextsrangingfromWilla Cather’s novel O Pioneers! (1913) to Novella Carpenter’s nonfiction work Farm City (2009), Carruth argues for the centrality of what she terms American food power to the history of globalization and examinesitsramificationsforregionalculturesandecosystems.Lively and accessible, this interdisciplinary study will appeal to scholars of Americanliteratureandcultureaswellasthoseworkinginthefieldsof foodstudies,agriculturehistory,scienceandtechnologystudies,and theenvironmentalhumanities. allisoncarruthisAssistantProfessorofEnglishattheUniversity ofCalifornia,LosAngeles,wheresheisaffiliatedwiththeCenterfor theStudyofWomen,InstituteforSocietyandGenetics,andInstitute of the Environment and Sustainability. Her research focuses on contemporaryAmericanliteratureandnewmedia,theenvironmental humanities, food studies, and science and technology studies. She receivedherPhDfromStanfordUniversity. GLOBAL APPETITES American Power and the Literature of Food ALLISON CARRUTH UniversityofCalifornia,LosAngeles cambridge university press Cambridge,NewYork,Melbourne,Madrid,CapeTown, Singapore,SãoPaulo,Delhi,MexicoCity CambridgeUniversityPress 32AvenueoftheAmericas,NewYork,ny10013-2473,usa www.cambridge.org Informationonthistitle:www.cambridge.org/9781107032828 ©AllisonCarruth2013 Thispublicationisincopyright.Subjecttostatutoryexception andtotheprovisionsofrelevantcollectivelicensingagreements, noreproductionofanypartmaytakeplacewithoutthewritten permissionofCambridgeUniversityPress. Firstpublished2013 PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica AcatalogrecordforthispublicationisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary. LibraryofCongressCataloginginPublicationData Carruth,Allison. Globalappetites:Americanpowerandtheliteratureoffood/AllisonCarruth, UniversityofCalifornia,LosAngeles. pages cm Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex. isbn978-1-107-03282-8 1. Agricultureinliterature. 2. Foodinliterature. 3. Americanliterature–20thcentury–Historyandcriticism. 4. Americanliterature–Womenauthors–Historyandcriticism. 5. Cather,Willa,1873–1947–Criticismandinterpretation. 6. Morrison,Toni.Tarbaby. 7. Ozeki,RuthL.–Criticismandinterpretation. 8. Foodwriting–UnitedStates. 9. Agriculturalindustries–UnitedStates. 10. Globalization. I. Title. ps228.a52c37 2013 810.903564–dc23 2012031891 isbn978-1-107-03282-8Hardback CambridgeUniversityPresshasnoresponsibilityforthepersistenceor accuracyofurlsforexternalorthird-partyInternetWebsitesreferredto inthispublicationanddoesnotguaranteethatanycontentonsuch Websitesis,orwillremain,accurateorappropriate. To Barron Bixler For the words in this book and the many meals that inspired them Contents ListofFigures pageviii Acknowledgments xi 1 Introduction:ThePowerofFood 1 2 RuralModernity:WillaCatherandtheRiseofAgribusiness 19 3 “LuxuryFeeding”andWarRations:FoodWritingat Midcentury 49 4 SupermarketsandExoticFoods:ToniMorrison’s“Chocolate Eater” 90 5 PostindustrialPastoral:RuthOzekiandtheNewMuckrakers 117 6 TheLocavoreMemoir:FoodWritingintheAgeof Information 154 Notes 169 Bibliography 213 Index 235 vii List of Figures 1 “StillLife#30.”1963.MuseumofModernArt,CounterSpace: DesignandtheModernKitchenExhibition.©EstateofTom Wesselmann/LicensedbyVAGA,NewYork.Reprintedwith thepermissionofVAGAandArtResource. page3 2 “ElectrifiedFarm.”1939–1940.NewYorkWorld’sFair Exhibition.CourtesyoftheNewYorkPublicLibrary, ManuscriptandArchivesDivision. 3 3 “FeedMill,California2008.”©BarronBixler.Reprintedwith thepermissionoftheartist. 13 4 “YourCountryCalls:Enlist–Plow–BuyBonds.”Circa1917– 1918.WorldWarIrecruitmentpostercreatedbyLloydMeyers andpublishedbyHamiltonPress.Reprintedwiththe permissionoftheWorldWarPostersCollection(Mss36), LiteraryManuscriptsCollection,UniversityofMinnesota Libraries,Minneapolis. 36 5 “SaveWasteFatsforExplosives.”1943.WorldWarIIfood rationingpostercreatedbyHenryKoernerandtheOfficeof WarInformationandpublishedbytheU.S.Government PrintingOffice.CourtesyoftheHennepinCountyLibrary, KittelsonWorldWarIICollection. 57 6 “RationingMeansaFairShareforAllofUs.”1943.WorldWar IIfoodrationingpostercreatedbytheOfficeofPrice AdministrationandpublishedbytheU.S.Government PrintingOffice.CourtesyoftheHennepinCountyLibrary, KittelsonWorldWarIICollection. 63 7 PhotographofHersheyRationDBarandTropicalChocolate Bar.Circa1942–1944.CourtesyoftheHersheyCommunity Archives,Hershey,PA. 74 viii

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Global Appetites explores the importance of industrial agriculture and countercultural food movements to globalization, and argues that the modern food system is crucial to conceptions of U.S. global power since the First World War. The book centers on the "literature of food" - a body of work that
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