Global Appetites: American Power and the Literature of Food PDF
Preview Global Appetites: American Power and the Literature of Food
more information – www.cambridge.org/9781107032828 GLOBAL APPETITES Global Appetites explores how industrial agriculture and countercul- tural food movements shape ideas of U.S. hegemony in the century since the First World War. Allison Carruth’s study centers on the “literatureoffood”–abodyofworkthatcomprisesliteraryrealism, latemodernism,andmagicalrealismalongwithculinarywriting,food memoir,andadvertising.ThroughanalysisoftextsrangingfromWilla Cather’s novel O Pioneers! (1913) to Novella Carpenter’s nonfiction work Farm City (2009), Carruth argues for the centrality of what she terms American food power to the history of globalization and examinesitsramificationsforregionalculturesandecosystems.Lively and accessible, this interdisciplinary study will appeal to scholars of Americanliteratureandcultureaswellasthoseworkinginthefieldsof foodstudies,agriculturehistory,scienceandtechnologystudies,and theenvironmentalhumanities. allisoncarruthisAssistantProfessorofEnglishattheUniversity ofCalifornia,LosAngeles,wheresheisaffiliatedwiththeCenterfor theStudyofWomen,InstituteforSocietyandGenetics,andInstitute of the Environment and Sustainability. Her research focuses on contemporaryAmericanliteratureandnewmedia,theenvironmental humanities, food studies, and science and technology studies. She receivedherPhDfromStanfordUniversity. GLOBAL APPETITES American Power and the Literature of Food ALLISON CARRUTH UniversityofCalifornia,LosAngeles cambridge university press Cambridge,NewYork,Melbourne,Madrid,CapeTown, Singapore,SãoPaulo,Delhi,MexicoCity CambridgeUniversityPress 32AvenueoftheAmericas,NewYork,ny10013-2473,usa www.cambridge.org Informationonthistitle:www.cambridge.org/9781107032828 ©AllisonCarruth2013 Thispublicationisincopyright.Subjecttostatutoryexception andtotheprovisionsofrelevantcollectivelicensingagreements, noreproductionofanypartmaytakeplacewithoutthewritten permissionofCambridgeUniversityPress. Firstpublished2013 PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica AcatalogrecordforthispublicationisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary. LibraryofCongressCataloginginPublicationData Carruth,Allison. Globalappetites:Americanpowerandtheliteratureoffood/AllisonCarruth, UniversityofCalifornia,LosAngeles. pages cm Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex. isbn978-1-107-03282-8 1. Agricultureinliterature. 2. Foodinliterature. 3. Americanliterature–20thcentury–Historyandcriticism. 4. Americanliterature–Womenauthors–Historyandcriticism. 5. Cather,Willa,1873–1947–Criticismandinterpretation. 6. Morrison,Toni.Tarbaby. 7. Ozeki,RuthL.–Criticismandinterpretation. 8. Foodwriting–UnitedStates. 9. Agriculturalindustries–UnitedStates. 10. Globalization. I. Title. ps228.a52c37 2013 810.903564–dc23 2012031891 isbn978-1-107-03282-8Hardback CambridgeUniversityPresshasnoresponsibilityforthepersistenceor accuracyofurlsforexternalorthird-partyInternetWebsitesreferredto inthispublicationanddoesnotguaranteethatanycontentonsuch Websitesis,orwillremain,accurateorappropriate. To Barron Bixler For the words in this book and the many meals that inspired them Contents ListofFigures pageviii Acknowledgments xi 1 Introduction:ThePowerofFood 1 2 RuralModernity:WillaCatherandtheRiseofAgribusiness 19 3 “LuxuryFeeding”andWarRations:FoodWritingat Midcentury 49 4 SupermarketsandExoticFoods:ToniMorrison’s“Chocolate Eater” 90 5 PostindustrialPastoral:RuthOzekiandtheNewMuckrakers 117 6 TheLocavoreMemoir:FoodWritingintheAgeof Information 154 Notes 169 Bibliography 213 Index 235 vii List of Figures 1 “StillLife#30.”1963.MuseumofModernArt,CounterSpace: DesignandtheModernKitchenExhibition.©EstateofTom Wesselmann/LicensedbyVAGA,NewYork.Reprintedwith thepermissionofVAGAandArtResource. page3 2 “ElectrifiedFarm.”1939–1940.NewYorkWorld’sFair Exhibition.CourtesyoftheNewYorkPublicLibrary, ManuscriptandArchivesDivision. 3 3 “FeedMill,California2008.”©BarronBixler.Reprintedwith thepermissionoftheartist. 13 4 “YourCountryCalls:Enlist–Plow–BuyBonds.”Circa1917– 1918.WorldWarIrecruitmentpostercreatedbyLloydMeyers andpublishedbyHamiltonPress.Reprintedwiththe permissionoftheWorldWarPostersCollection(Mss36), LiteraryManuscriptsCollection,UniversityofMinnesota Libraries,Minneapolis. 36 5 “SaveWasteFatsforExplosives.”1943.WorldWarIIfood rationingpostercreatedbyHenryKoernerandtheOfficeof WarInformationandpublishedbytheU.S.Government PrintingOffice.CourtesyoftheHennepinCountyLibrary, KittelsonWorldWarIICollection. 57 6 “RationingMeansaFairShareforAllofUs.”1943.WorldWar IIfoodrationingpostercreatedbytheOfficeofPrice AdministrationandpublishedbytheU.S.Government PrintingOffice.CourtesyoftheHennepinCountyLibrary, KittelsonWorldWarIICollection. 63 7 PhotographofHersheyRationDBarandTropicalChocolate Bar.Circa1942–1944.CourtesyoftheHersheyCommunity Archives,Hershey,PA. 74 viii
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