Get a PERFECT FIT Tools & Techniques for Great-Fitting Garments Your Fitting Questions Answered! PDF
Preview Get a PERFECT FIT Tools & Techniques for Great-Fitting Garments Your Fitting Questions Answered!
TH E B Your Fitting Questions Answered! EST O thF THE BEST OF r e a d s SP R IN G 20 13 Get a PERFECT FIT Tools & Techniques for Great-Fitting Garments Choose the RIGHT PATTERN SIZE for YOU Sew the Best-Fitting Pants—EVER! How to FIT KEY AREAS—Shoulders, Arms, Back, Waist & More SPRING 2013 Threads is now THREADSMAGAZINE.COM available on tablets TTTTHHHH111166666666aaaaAAAAddddpppp2222....iiiinnnndddddddd 2222////22228888////11113333 11110000::::00008888 AAAAMMMM ppppgggg 2222 ---- ((((CMYBelyaaalglconeKw)n))ta) TTTTHHHH111166666666aaaaAAAAddddpppp3333....iiiinnnndddddddd 2222////22222222////11113333 3333::::55559999 PPPPMMMM ppppgggg 3333 ---- ((((CMYBelyaaalglconeKw)n))ta) presents... a revolutionary approach to fitting SMART FITTING Kenneth D. King with This new video series introduces his foolproof way to fi t any garment. Couture designer Kenneth D. King demonstrates his unique fi tting method of net gain, net loss, and no-net change. Everyone can benefi t from his versatile techniques and master them because they are: • logical and straightforward • easily applied to any garment • so simple anyone can do it Learn Smart Fitting from Kenneth D. King, who is also a professor at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, and do it at your own pace, in your own home, and review any part at any time. Now professional instruction can be yours at a fraction of the cost. A terrific value! The complete lesson-packed series is yours for ONLY $149.95 3 DVDs PLUS ALL THESE EXTRAS • 4 bonus articles • Extra sidebars with Prof. King • Behind-the-scenes interview • Expert tips, tricks, and secrets • And so much more To order call toll free 800-888-8286 Use code: MF800112 Or go online: ThreadsMagazine.com/SMART NEW Item Number: 031038 ©2013 The Taunton Press Inc. THE BEST OF SSPPRRIINNGG 22001133 FFeeaattuurreess GOOD MEASURES 31 14 Measure It Right Adaptable dress form Precise and accurate measurements yield a better-fi tting garment BY BARBARA EMODI 20 Measuring and Marking Notions Tools that help you fi t and fi nish garments BY MARY ROEHR 26 Does Your Pattern Fit? Before cutting, check your pattern’s measurements against your own BY BARBARA EMODI 31 Fit for Everyone Sew removable covers to make your dress form work for multiple fi gures BY KENNETH D. KING FIT STRATEGIES ps; hilli P 38 Muslin Refined Scott nt, o A couture method leads to exquisite garments n fr o BY SUSAN KHALJE ers h 44 Smart Fitting all ot d; A simple way to assess and solve your fi t challenges war o BY KENNETH D. KING n H a o 51 Fine-tune the Tissue nt) Sl o B ToY a MudAiRtiCoYn yToIuLTr OpaNttern, pin it together and try it on easure, frward mo 5 6 BT DYoh nCe’tL BaAlUteeDsr EtsTo CTmEue GbsotRdoAyNm eTls Pe’sa pnatttsern—draft your own Cover photos: (tape (back cover) Sloan H SIP29_CT_Contents.indd 4 2/28/13 2:39 PM 64 shoulder focus FOCUSED FITTING 64 Start at the Shoulders 86 Your shoulder slope a≠ ects the fi t of every outfi t, so alter patterns to match your body space for a BY JUDITH NEUKAM AND CAROL FRESIA midsection 70 G et the Right Armhole Use a muslin to adjust bust, back, and shoulder— and your armhole almost takes care of itself BY SARAH VEBLEN 76 The Perfect Sleeve Start with two simple measurements and correct the sleeve cap BY SARAH VEBLEN 56 82 Add a Bust Dart draft This adjustment for a full bust dart a pants pattern fl atters the entire silhouette BY LOUISE CUTTING 86 Full & Fabulous How to accommodate a large midsection BY KATHLEEN CHEETHAM 92 Scale It Down ps; hilli Fitting petite fi gures requires more than ott P a size change ont, Sc BY KATHLEEN CHEETHAM 38 n fr o hers Departments perfecting all ot the muslin d; ar ow EDITOR’S NOTE 6 H n oa Q & A 8 Sl ont) THREADSMAGAZINE.COM 10 easure, frward mo Cover photos: (tape (back cover) Sloan H TTbpphuhrAirtonBe ttsao Lesd aEugsrTb’ac nlsh lEceearwDrbiipel IedtsTi .ioa gIDOnnito daoNw lrf uneSTdllh loF irotaeRifdoa Ei ndntEhsst eeaITnr raOaespci d ttpShie vaUere t o s BeTanxhSmltirCnreeaeaR si dn mIlsiBskMepeEmia r3Ragb6tSae0iozr-sindnhaeeilpg.,c .ironemfeo /gramaprapmtsie.v Anetc i csvesieusswe siss ,y fvorieude el oowvsie, ta,h n ad threadsmagazine.com SIP29_CT_Contents.indd 5 3/6/13 2:47 PM EDITOR’S NOTE Sewing perfection is a garment that fi ts THE BEST OF A sk garment sewers why they make their own clothes, and a great fi t is inevitably a part of their answer. None of us is a standard size— and vive la di≠ érence! Our variety of beautiful shapes From the Publisher of means that getting a good fi t from an o≠ -the-rack garment or an out-of-the-package pattern is not a ® reality for most. However, with knowledge about how to sew for fi t, you can create garments that make you look and feel spectacular. Editor Deana Tierney May Deana Tierney May To help you do that, this issue brings together some Art Director Rosann Berry Editor of the best fitting articles from Threads’ 27-year his- Senior Technical Editor Judith Neukam tory, written by renowned fitting experts. Whether Special Issues Carol Fresia you’re new to garment fitting or you want to tackle a Technical Editor particularly challenging problem, you’ll find answers Senior Editor Sarah McFarland *we’d love on the following pages. Associate Editor Stephani L. Miller Get started by taking good measurements and dis- to hear covering the best tools for the job. Learn how to iden- Central Sta≠ Editor Sarah Opdahl from you! tify and solve fitting issues. (You’ll see that there’s Senior Copy/ Jeannine Clegg often more than one way to fix a problem.) Make a Production Editor muslin to experiment freely, and learn what methods Assistant Art Director Gloria Melfi Send your letters to: work best for you. Or, draft a pattern directly to your Threads Letters Administrative April Mohr PO Box 5506 measurements, eliminating a lot of fitting adjust- Assistant Newtown, CT 06470-5506 ments right off the bat. Finally, learn how to fine-tune Contributing Editors Louise Cutting or via email the fit on the areas that need adjusting. We cover Susan Khalje [email protected] Kenneth D. King shoulders, armholes, sleeves, bust, waist, how to scale Mary Ray down a pattern, and more. Seamstress Norma Bucko With this issue in hand, you can create and sew gar- Interns Courtney Campbell ments that fit like a dream in no time! Emily Berube Happy sewing and happy fitting! Dana Finkle —Deana Tierney May Executive Editor, Books Shawna Mullen Editor For more fi tting ThreadsMagazine.com advice: Executive Web Producer Victoria North Threads magazine Web Producer Evamarie Gomez (ThreadsMagazine.com) covers garment fi tting regularly. Also look for Taunton’s SewStylish: (ISSN: 1935-8482) is published by The aal S Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Telephone 203-426- a ouarnTs apeduwo DnpiVntuoDglan-srcS arfita votfartteiisnl.a.chgbot blmmeo /alotk s ygWThoo u rrteirota setdua sabu inmns taaios rrnstei.iocacnodlemse. r fT/-owtohr r lrTieetahtaerdrnnes a/hmpdoaawsgg aetozs/i pnthreo_, paanoudsthe w oaren waretliccolem, e 8P1r7i1n. tCeadna idnia tnh GeS UT pSaAid registration #123210981. eutsch, stylist: Jessic D guidelines.asp. ack o: J ot h P 6 THREADS SIP29_LT.indd 6 3/1/13 3:08 PM TTTTHHHH111166666666aaaaAAAAddddpppp7777....iiiinnnndddddddd 2222////22221111////11113333 1111::::33334444 PPPPMMMM ppppgggg 7777 ---- ((((CMYBelyaaalglconeKw)n))ta) ® Shop Our Online Store BOOKS, DVDs, & MORE See how tailoring improves CCoouuttuurree IInnccsslluutteeddppee--ssbb ccyy--oossmmtteeppppaa nnDDiiVVooWDDnn ! everything you sew SSeewwiinngg N E Learn the tailoring techniques and sewing secrets of renowned European TTaaiilloorriinngg TTeecchhnniiqquueess designers in Couture Sewing Tailoring Techniques, a tailoring workshop taught by Claire B. Shaeffer. This popular author-instructor demonstrates garment-tailoring techniques, construction methods, and even shortcuts used in the finest ateliers of Paris, Rome, and London. Lessons come alive in the 90-minute DVD and the companion book reinforces the instruction with step-by-step images of each technique. Whether you want to learn high-fashion sewing techniques or just want to improve your skills, Couture Sewing Tailoring Techniques fits like a finely tailored suit. Order your copy today. Couture Sewing Tailoring Techniques Claire B. Shaeffer Paperback with DVD Product #071390, $24.95 Threads Threads Fitting Threads Fitting For DVD Series Industry Insider Every Figure DVD Boxed Set Techniques, Vol. 5 Paperback Product #031011 DVD Product #071349 $99.95 Product #061104 $21.95 $29.95 BASIC TRA●I NSPINRIGN TGO 2 U0N1L3E AFSAHSH YIOOUNR S CEWREIANTGIV GITUYIDE C o SeuwtteRcuevihisendn & rUipqdautgeedes CTeP$eB1rooc7oudh.ot9unuk9cirqte u# S0ee7sw78in6g5 THREADSFROM THE EDITORS OF SPRING 2013 TAUNTON’S T● F S EA N DFP CSL EeF HTAPtsOLT ioN&gUAT nISME Qp FRW&SUUISE NSNEeGrHSWw ! iInOgNS DP E●●● CI E NAA LFRDFSLSUFuTaLSKeSIROGnxRTYvITEIReceCDONS EETyP rHSSREREsE RTie Rl!PNrkO iAIm L JpLE OpClWiTqSué SSSP$o6rpeo.fwr9tdic9nSuotgcvyt e2l #ir0s 0Mh13 3a4g0a2z8ine TADP$9rhrVoc9rDdhe.9uai5vcdets # 2M003a11g20a3z5ine ● Ewmitbhe LlAlisChE ● Uwsiteh Y CoOuNr SFEIDREGNECRE ClaiRe B. s haeffeR SewStylish.comSSTBD$FaPeur6ARenwo.TItS9moNES9en G t 2wPt y r0h2CoSl0edA0itu N8s1eyc 3ht$dl #8.iic3.ts94ooh90rm2.s8c oofm Threads Tnohnorw teaa abdvlsea tiislsable ThreadsMagazine.com/ShopNow Your destination for trusted sewing know-how Simply search by product number or call 800-888-8286, use code M3800088 Call Monday-Friday 9AM - 9PM EST and Saturday 9AM - 5PM EST • International customers, call 203-702-2204 Prices are subject to change. © 2013 The Taunton Press Q How you lengthen a skirt A pattern depends on the style & Q I’ve heard that most patterns are sized for a 5-foot, Group Publisher Maria Taylor 6-inch-tall body. I’m taller. What’s the best way to [email protected] add length to a skirt pattern? VP, Advertising Sales Rick Straface —J.R. Laurie, Portland, Oregon [email protected] Advertising Sales Clare Liberis Karen Howland responds: Adding length to patterns and to ready-to-wear is Director 203-304-3532 A [email protected] something with which I am familiar; I’m 6 feet 2 inches tall. At first thought, the solution appears to be as simple as adding extra length to the bottom. However, if a Custom Solutions Brenden Delaney Manager 203-304-3590 silhouette tapers or flares, it’s not that simple. [email protected] When you add significant length to a skirt by extending the side seams, a flared skirt Associate Advertising Tracey Lenahan can end up with a hem that’s wider than your fabric; and a tapered skirt can end up Sales Manager 203-304-3540 [email protected] with a hem edge that is so narrow you can’t walk. Advertising Sales Diana Mackey The style of your skirt determines whether it’s best to add length at the lower edge Assistant or at the lengthen/shorten lines printed (or added) on your pattern. When you spread a skirt in the middle of its length, you have to true the seams, which means straight- Senior Advertising Karen Lutjen Marketing and ening the jagged seamline that forms when the seamlines are broken between the pat- Operations Manager tern segments. There may be other fit considerations, as well, when spreading pattern Assistant Advertising Kandace Doyle segments. Here are general guidelines for lengthening skirts. Marketing Manager Member Audit Adapted from the Threads Fitting Department, no. 117, by Karen Howland. Bureau of Circulation T117 FG a Digital Marketing Sara Ezrin Larsen Director Lengthen straight styLes at the hem Senior Consumer Melissa Robinson Marketing Manager On straight-cut skirt patterns, usually you can add Draw a new hem- the desired extra length successfully at the hem. line and hem Director, eCommerce Michael Stoltz allowance at an Extend the seams by continuing the line from equal distance the upper section, retaining the angle of the from the original seams. If there is a slight flare, the lower edge will hemline to estab- be fuller than the original. lish the new length. Independent publishers since 1975 Founders, Paul & Jan Roman President Timothy Rahr Lengthen FLared and tapered garments above the hemLine CFO Richard Browning Group Publisher Anatole Burkin Don’t just add length to the hem edge of flared or tapered sTk1i1rt7s FoGr ybo-u1 could end up with a hem thatT’s1 1w7 FiGd 4e-ar than your fabric or one that’s too narrow to walk in. Group Publisher Maria Taylor T117 FG 4b SVP, Creative & Editorial Susan Edelman Flared skirt SVP, Operations Thomas Luxeder VP, Single Copy Sales Jay Annis To add length Cut the pattern to a flared skirt VP, Consumer Marketing Nancy Hallberg piece along the pattern, produce lengthen/shorten VP, Advertising Sales Rick Straface a better-fitting line. VP & Controller Wayne Reynolds pattern, and True the VP, Finance Kathy Worth retain the lower seams. ola edge’s original VP, Human Resources Carol Marotti azz M dimension, add VP, Fulfillment Patricia Williamson n bi length at the Ro Abovottiodm ad odfi nthge lseen sgttyhle ast. the llpeinantegtset phrnrei,n na/tsse hsdho oorntwe tnnh .e Spthpieerce aea ddtdh teehd ae l mepnaogtuttnehrt.n o f PublTiFshihnreeear Wsd osof o •md Fwwaingowearkw zGiin.natgeard su •e, nb n Ftoioinnongke.s c H•,o v o mFimdineeeob sCu, oaiolndkdiin noggn l ine Illustrations: 8 THREADS SIP29_Fitting_QA.indd 8 2/28/13 12:20 PM SSSSIIIIPPPP22229999____FFFFiiiittttttttiiiinnnngggg____QQQQAAAA....iiiinnnndddddddd 2222////22228888////11113333 3333::::00001111 PPPPMMMM ppppgggg 9999 ---- ((((CMYBelyaaalglconeKw)n))ta) T117 FG b-2 T117 FG b-3 Tapered skirt Adjusting the pattern piece on a tapered skirt changes the dart and maintains the way the fabric drapes. If you are using an unforgiving fabric or adding significant length to a tapered skirt, the following dart adjustment will improve your results: 1. Cut along the lengthen/shorten line and separate 1⁄2 inch the pattern the amount of the additional length. Cut here. 2. Lay a straightedge (ruler) from the widest point on the upper pattern segment to the hem at the side seam, to indicate the new side seamline. Be Dart shape Spread the sure to keep the center front/back of both segments pattern piece in alignment. Notice the dart shape between the to fill the dart. side seam and the straightedge. 3. Draw a line parallel to the center line from the waist dart point down to the lower edge of the upper skirt pattern segment. Slash along this line True the seams. to 1⁄2 inch from the dart point, and spread the slash until the side seam meets the straightedge between the hip and hem. The waist dart will close slightly. Spread the pattern (This adjustment isn’t necessary on minimally piece the amount of tapered skirts.) the added length. 4. Fill the void formed by cutting and spreading with new tissue paper, and tape it in place. Sewing Pattern Software Fabric, Fashion, and Fabulosity. Designers All in one neat package. and www.gorgeousfabrics.com Costumers Sewing and Crafts The world’s most innovative Educators fabrics since 1912 and Students Linton Tweeds design and a azzol weave fabric for the world's M n most exclusive fashion bi Ro houses, buy yours online ns: FIND OUT MORE at wildginger.com o ustrati www.lintondirect.co.uk 888.929.9453 Ill www.threadsmagazine.com Spring 2013 9 ThreadsMagazine.com TECHNIQUES • COMMUNITY • PROJECTS • SEWING NEWS • CONTESTS & MORE Expert Fitting Advice and More! By following the detailed steps, you’ll have your own pattern in no time. Accurate measure- MEASUREMENTS FROM ments are a must for MY FAVORITE CLOTHES Ease achieving a good fit. Preferred ease for fitted clothes You can get them Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4 = _________ total = _________ total by measuring your Preferred ease for semifitted clothes Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4 favorite, well-fitting = _________ total = ____ _____ total Preferred ease for loosely fit clothes clothes. Download Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4 = _________ total = _________ total Susan Lazear’s print- Preferred ease for nonfitted clothes able measurement Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4 = _________ total = _________ total chart to learn how. Preferred ease for ______________ clothes Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4 = _________ total = _________ total Preferred ease for fitted sleeves: ___________ inch pinch X 2 = ___________ total Preferred ease for nonfitted sleeves: ___________ inch pinch X 2 = __________ total Once you have proper body measure- ments, try your hand at pattern drafting. BOdY dIMENSIONS Measure the clothes Head circumference** ___________ In this online video, Senior Technical you like to wear the Chest circumference ___________ Waist circumference ___________ Editor Judith Neukam demonstrates how most. Hip circumference ___________ to draft the front and back of a bodice Bicep ___________ Wrist ___________ pattern at lightning speed. Download the Other ___________ ** For judging neck openings on pullover garments printable article for detailed instructions. All New DVD! Smart Fitting with ok; o Kenneth D. King eb Icno nthtriisb tuhtrieneg- peadritt oDr,V fiDt tsienrgie esx, pTehrrte,a adnsd mark of Fac e d couturier Kenneth D. King shares his a Waccitehs sa tToh: reads Insider Membership you get unnetiq louses fi, attnindg n por ninecti pchleasn ogfe n. Yeot ug’alli nle, arn gistered trgan. Follo•••••w 8 T Od E Sa xp0auubcet-rlaplc useeblisuatx a iolscevs mldeesune isedtwii:movoiwennb sTgne ha rlto nridpaedidass cddsao isnogu Ifdinn to atstuesild crias ehpnsrnoud pipe qmausutltoeaersrre vna!ir dteicoles sTM hfiagmWtitnorlaotos-u tirwpdotuimsnhue sl lgit pereeKnoc artnte, hsh arhtan an ,pweni ns pnp hdeuieittlon tepyhyahw-r poodfit’vsheuu jtit ure,esrto s i mwsa ctmteehno avp apedppkaan ly regleltdiuo t nut c aeawohceoprtdiosernepparswr slertwy e tohca-!sotoatec oriwrcc os fikhovonh.tir, .d seAd yoY ensioofono nuatugsh ’’a blllweyll o . b intehu a stb,h TleAteho prtr eoeapn aclfioydhtw s iKb eIneonvendsedini dca eieen tgsrsh,so t s’rhsolu eaducev ntfveoiie tqres.. xu,V cneilse uficstikt iTvtlaiiennu eagnsc t,cpo sernksinSisr tcttoisopr, eaale.nncs od m Twitter is a registered trademark of Twitter Inc.; Facebook is a rePinterest logo was designed by Michael Deal and Juan Carlos Pa 10 THREADS SIP29_WW.indd 10 3/1/13 3:09 PM The Threads Annual Index can be found at ThreadsMagazine.com.
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