Geotrekking in Southeastern Arabia A Guide to Locations of World-Class Geology Benjamin R. Jordan Published under the aegis of the AGU Books Board Kenneth R. Minschwaner, Chair; Gray E. Bebout, Kenneth H. Brink, Jiasong Fang, Ralf R. Haese, Yonggang Liu, W. Berry Lyons, Laurent Montési, Nancy N. Rabalais, Todd C. Rasmussen, A. Surjalal Sharma, David E. Siskind, Rigobert Tibi, and Peter E. van Keken, members. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Jordan, Benjamin R., 1972- Geotrekking in Southeast Arabia : a guide to locations of world-class geology / Benjamin R. Jordan. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-87590-735-2 1. Geology—United Arab Emirates. 2. Geology—Oman. I. Title. QE291.U5J67 2012 555.35—dc23 2012027599 ISBN: 978-0-87590-735-2 Book doi: 10.1029/SP065 Copyright 2012 by the American Geophysical Union 2000 Florida Avenue, NW Washington, DC 20009 Front cover: Examples of the geological variety of southeastern Arabia. (top) Erosional pillars rising above the Abu Dhabi, UAE, sabkha and (bottom) the coastal cliffs and drowned river valleys of Oman’s Musandam Peninsula. Figures, tables, and short excerpts may be reprinted in scientific books and journals if the source is properly cited. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by the American Geophysical Union for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center (CCC). This consent does not extend to other kinds of copying, such as copying for creating new collective works or for resale. The reproduction of multiple copies and the use of full articles or the use of extracts, including figures and tables, for commercial purposes requires permission from the American Geophysical Union. geopress is an imprint of the American Geophysical Union. Printed in the United States of America. CONTENTS Preface ........................................................................................................v Introduction .................................................................................................1 Route 1: Abu Dhabi Sabkha, United Arab Emirates .................................16 Route 2: Liwa, United Arab Emirates .......................................................38 Route 3: Al Ain and Jebel Hafeet, United Arab Emirates ..........................60 Route 4: Jebel Huwayya (Fossil Valley), Oman .......................................90 Route 5: Wadi Madbah, Oman .............................................................102 Route 6: Wadi Al Jizzi, Oman ...............................................................120 Route 7: Rustaq Area, Oman .................................................................148 Route 8: Hatta to Khalba, United Arab Emirates ....................................168 Route 9: Musandam, Oman ..................................................................190 Appendix A: Overview ............................................................................205 Bibliography ............................................................................................245 Index .......................................................................................................249 Preface Whenwritingabooksuchasthisonanareaasgeologicallyfantasticanddiverseas theUnitedArabEmirates(UAE)andtheSultanateofOman(Oman),therearebound tobemanyquestionsalongthelinesof“Butwhatabout...?”or“Whydidn’tyou include...?”Thespectaculargeologyoftheregioncannotbecontainedinonebook. Ididnotevenremotelydecidetotrysuchanundertaking.Thisbookwaswrittento providespecificandclearlocationinformationonaselectfewsitesthatrepresentthe mosteasilyaccessible,yetpremierexamplesofthegeologyoftheregion. Ihighlyencourageexplorationoutsidetheconfinesofthisbook.Thereismuchto seeanddiscoveronyourown,whetheryouareatouristwantingtoknowalittleof thegeologichistoryofthearea,aresearcherwantingtostudytheareaindetail,ora residentcuriousaboutthegeologicheritageoftheareainwhichyoulive.Thebook canbeastart,butitcertainlyisnottheend. Theemphasisinthisbookisongettingtothelocationsthatmanywouldliketosee, butdonotknowhowtoreach,especiallyiftheyarefromoutsidetheUAEorOman. Thereisnocomparableguideavailable.Thereareseveralotherguidestothegeology of the area, but the most recent and up-to-date examples do not have location information,onlygeneral(butverygood)descriptionsofthegeologyofthearea.The actualdescriptionsinthisbookarefairlybrief,andforthoseinterestedIrecommend thatyouseekoutthoseadditionalresources(whicharelistedinthisbook). Itishopedthatthisbookwillserveasaguideandahelpfulintroductiontoafewof thelocationsintheUAEandOmanthatareexamplesofsomeoftheworld’sfinest geology. It is written for anyone interested in understanding the Earth and its processes. Each route includes directions, photographs, and explanations of why a particularlocationisspecial.Also,becauseitishopedthattheuserwillseemorethan thebookcanpossiblycover,ahandyidentificationguidetothemostcommonrocks, minerals, and fossils likelytobe seenisincluded in the back, alongwithpages for notes.Thisbookismeanttobebothusefulandused.Itismyhopethatitwillbe. Manypeoplehavecontributedtothecompletionofthisbook.Iwouldfirstliketo expressmygratitudetomycolleaguesatUnitedArabEmiratesUniversity(UAEU) v Geotrekking in Southeastern Arabia who introduced me to the region: Fadhil Sadooni (now at Environmental Studies Center, University of Qatar), Ahmed Murad, Haydar Baker, Esam Abdelgawad, Abdallah Musallam, Osman Abdelghany, Abdurrahman Tom Fowler, Sulaiman Alabed, Salem Essa, Fares Howari (now at Abu Dhabi University), Bahaa Mahmoud, Wahid Abdel Hafez, Ayman El-saiy, Amir Gabr, Mahmoud Abu- Saima, Mostafa Lotfy (no longer at UAEU), Gaber Lattif, Hamdi Kandil, Wajeeh Kittana, and Omer Al-Basher. IwouldalsoliketothankWarrenWood,TomVogel,DavidHyndman,andPaulo Hidalgo of Michigan State University, along with Gary Byerly of Louisiana State UniversityandTomTaylorofShellOilCompanyfortheirinformativediscussions ofthegeologyoftheUnitedArabEmiratesandOmanandtheirencouragementto preparethisguide. A special thanks goes to Dennis Dahl, my frequent traveling companion and fellowexplorer,whospentmanydayswithme,discoveringmostofthelocationsin thisbook.AnothergoodfriendandfellowexplorerisJarodGardner,whowillingly traveled with me to the Middle East to help me confirm my routes. We are both grateful to Jonathon and Wendy Penny, who opened their home to us during our travels.Iwouldalsoliketothankmysister,JulieJones,whosecuriosityledtothe discoveryofthesaltpondonRoute1andthedesertrosesofRoute2. Manyothershavegenerouslyallowedmetousetheirmapsandillustrations,and IamverygratefulthatIdidnothaveto“reinventthewheel.”EricChristiansen,of Brigham Young University, let me use many figures from his and Kenneth Ham- blin’s highly regarded geology text; Ron Blakey, of Northern Arizona University, allowed me the use of his fantastic illustrations of Earth’s ancient geography; ChristopherKendall,oftheUniversityofSouthCarolina,graciouslyletmerepro- ducehisgeologicmapoftheAbuDhabisabkha;andRichardLillyreadilyallowed metheuseofhisgeologicmapoftheHatta(UAE)area. IcannotsayenoughaboutLindaMitchell,whopreparedor“touchedup”almost every figure in the book, and Robert Holman, who prepared all of the route maps. SomeofmyfieldworkwasgenerouslyfundedbytheBYU-IdahoThomasE.Ricks facultyresearchfundoffice,alongwiththeBYU-IdahoCollegeofPhysicalSciences andEngineeringandtheBYU-IdahoDepartmentofGeology.Mythankstheregoto DanMoore,KendallPeck,DonetteRingel,GracieHill,andPhillipAllred. I express gratitude to AGU Books staff for encouragement and for seeing the bookthroughfromthebeginningtotheend. Iespeciallythankmywife,Michelle,whosupportedmethroughoutthisendeavor. Mychildren,Katherine, Colin,andStephanie,whooftenexploredthelocationsin this book with me, were a pleasure to travel with. To all my other friends and associates in the Middle East I express my love and appreciation. They made my family’stimetheretrulywonderful. BenjaminR.Jordan Oahu,Hawaii vi Introduction TherearemanyguidebookstothecountriesoftheSultanateofOman(Oman)and the United Arab Emirates (UAE). There is a good reason for this: there are numerous tourists that visit these countries and there is a lot to see and do. Most ofthetouristscomeforthecultureandtheshopping.However,asmallbutregular groupoftouristscomestotheregionforacompletelydifferentreason–tolookat rocks. That is because the rocks of southeast Arabia are special and unique. Geologistscomefromallpartsoftheworldseethemfirsthand,tostudythem,and gainagreaterunderstandingoftheprocessesthathaveshapedthewholeEarth.The HajarMountainsoftheUAEandOmanaretheworld’slargestandbestpreserved ophiolite – a slice of the deep ocean crust that has been forced by tectonic forces onto a continent. Within these mountains are sections of the deep Earth, rarely exposedanywhere–piecesoftheEarth’smantleandthelowerpartsofitsoceanic crust; deep sea sediments and volcanic rocks that were erupted by submarine volcanoes; and copper deposits formed at ancient, deep sea, hydrothermal vents. Inaddition,groundwaterflowingoutofophioliterocksreactswiththeatmosphere to precipitate calcite and form pools that appear as blue as any man-made swim- mingpool. Iftheophiolitewasallthatwashereitwouldbeenoughtosatisfyanygeologist. However,theshallowlandandhighevaporationconditionsinthewesternregionof the UAE forms giant, salt-lined mudcracks and the growth of gypsum clusters called“desertroses.”Inthisregiontherearestromatolites–coloniesofcyanobac- teriathatareprobablysomeoftheoldestlivingspeciesonEarth.Thentherearethe dunes of Liwa, UAE, some of which rise 160 m above evaporative salt plains. Theseandmanyothergeologicmarvelsexistinaregionknownmoreforitsoiland gas geology. Oil and gas are found in many places, but few places on Earth have 100 million-year-old pillow lavas, which form underwater, preserved as if they wereeruptedyesterday,ormudcracksthatarethesizeofacar. 1 Geotrekking in Southeastern Arabia Geologic Structure InordertounderstandthegeologyofsoutheastArabiaitisimportanttounderstand thestructureoftheEarth.TheEarthismuchlikeanegg,withahard,brittle,outer shellandasoft,butsolid,interior.Theshell,inasense,“floats”onthehot,“plastic” rocksbelow.However,unlikeanegg,theinterioroftheEarthcanbedescribedby geologistsbyeitheritschemicalorphysicalcharacteristics.Whenitisdescribedby its chemical characteristics it only has three layers: a core, mantle, and crust. The Coreismadeofiron(Fe)andnickel(Ni),withalittlebitofsulfur(S).TheMantle consistsofmostlyiron(Fe),magnesium(Mg),andsilica(Si).TheCrustismostly silica(Si)withlotsofaluminum(Al)andcalcium(Ca).WhentheEarthisdescribed byitsphysicalcharacteristicsithasaninnercore,outercore,mesosphere,astheno- sphere, and lithosphere. The lithosphere thus includes both the upper part of the mantleandthecrustandishardandbrittle.Theboundarybetweenthecrustandthe mantleiscalledthe“Moho,”whichisshortfor“Mohorovičićdiscontinuity”andis namedafterAndrijaMohorovičić,aCroatianseismologistwhofirstdescribeditin 1909. The lithosphere “floats” on the asthenosphere, which is solid, but soft, like modelingclay.SeeFigureI.1. The lithosphere is broken into vast regions of the Earth’s surface called plates (Figure I.2). These plates of the lithosphere move in relation to one another in a processcalledPlateTectonics.Insomeareastheymoveapartinlargerifts,which splittheEarthandallowmagmageneratedintherisingasthenospheretoreachthe Earth’ssurface,formingvolcanoesandnewrocks.Inotherareastheplatescollide Figure I.1. Cross-section of the earth illustrating the layers within the Earth, which are definedeitherbytheirchemicalortheirphysicalcompositions.Theyellowsquareindicates theapproximateregionofsoutheastArabiacoveredbythisguide. 2 Introduction FigureI.2.AgeneralizedmapofEarth’smajortectonicplates.TheArabianplateislocated ontherightandismovingnortheast–collidingwithpresent-dayIranandformingtheZagros MountainsalongthewesternedgeofIran.TheriftcreatedasArabiamovesawayfromAfrica iswhatformstheRedSea.IllustrationbyLindaMitchell[afterHamblinandChristiansen, 2004]. FigureI.3.Mostoftheworld’svolcanismtakesplacewhereplatesareeithermovingapartor colliding.Usuallytherocksformedatamid-oceanridgesinkbackintotheEarth.Sometimes, however, slices of oceanic crust will be thrust onto continental crust during collision and subduction. The Hajar Mountains of the United Arab Emirates and Oman are the best preservedexampleofoneoftheseslices.IllustrationbyLindaMitchell(figurenottoscale). 3 Geotrekking in Southeastern Arabia FigureI.4.Across-sectionthroughamid-oceanridgeillustratingtheprocessesthatproduce the stratigraphyillustrated inFigure I.6.Illustration by Linda Mitchell[after Murck etal., 2008]. andpushupmountains,oronewillsinkasitispulledbygravitybeneathanother. This sinking is called subduction and leads to volcanoes as water, which was absorbed from the ocean by rocks underlying the seafloor, is released from the sinkingplateandlowersthemeltingtemperatureoftheasthenosphereitissinking through (much like salt lowers the melting temperature of ice). This causes the asthenospheric rock to melt and form a magma that rises to the surface where it eruptsthroughtheoverlyinglithosphereandcrust[TatsumiandEggins,1995].See FigureI.3.Finally,plateswillalsoslidepasteachotherandformlonglinesoffaults suchasthosethatgeneratethefamousearthquakesofCaliforniaorTurkey,aswell asthelesserknownfaultsintheMasafiandFujairahregionoftheUAE.Overtime, new crust is formed at mid-ocean ridges as plates move apart, allow melting and risingofmagmafromthemantle,andthencoolingandsolidifyingofthatmagmato makenewcrust(FiguresI.4andI.5).Theresultisthatoceaniccrust/lithospherehas Figure I.5. A cross-section of the formation of oceanic crust/lithosphere through time. IllustrationbyLindaMitchell[afterHamblinandChristiansen,2004]. 4
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