geographic indications in greece

16 Pages·2011·0.33 MB·English

ALTERNATIVE AGRI-FOOD GEOGRAPHIES?
GEOGRAPHIC INDICATIONS IN GREECE
tesg_612220..235
THANASISKIZOS*&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS**
*DepartmentofGeography,UniversityoftheAegean,UniversityHill,Mitilini81100,Greece.E-mail:
[email protected]
**AParodosAp.Apostolou12,Varia-Mytilini81100,Greece.E-mail:[email protected]
Received:August2009;revisedDecember2009
ABSTRACT
The discussion about alternative agri-food products has led some researchers to proclaim the
emergenceofalternativeagri-foodgeographies.Thispaperfocusesonthegeographyofcertified
geographicalindicationsinGreece.Wefocusonanumberofkeycharacteristicsoftheproducts
(e.g.areaofproduction,productioninlessfavouredareas)andanalysespecificcasestudiesof
products, in order to understand their importance and impact (e.g. volume of production,
numberofbusinessesthatproducethem)andinvestigatethechoicesofthisgeography.Evidence
suggeststhatsomeGreekgeographicalindications(GIs)existonly‘onpaper’andthereforehave
zero impact on their delimited areas. Furthermore, the impact of GIs depends not only on the
characteristicsoftheproductbutonthecharacteristicsoftheenterprisesthatproducethemas
well.Anew,althoughnotalternative,agri-foodgeographyisemerging.
Keywords: Protecteddesignationoforigin(PDO),protectedgeographicindication(PGI),short
foodsupplychains(SFSCs),alternativefoodnetworks(AFNs),qualitywineproducedinspecified
regions(QWPSR)
ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOOD sociallyconstructednotion,ischaracterisedby
PRODUCTSANDALTERNATIVE continuous change, as people in different
AGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES spatialandtemporalsettingsperceiveitdiffer-
ently. To fully understand quality agri-food
Inthelastfewyears,agri-foodproducts,which products, researchers turned to alternative
are differentiated positively on a basis of envi- food networks (AFNs) and short food supply
ronmental (e.g. organic products), hygiene chains(SFSCs)(Marsdenetal.2000).1Alterna-
(e.g. nutritional, wholesome products) and tive food networks are variously and loosely
socio-cultural characteristics (e.g. local, tradi- defined as networks that are in some ways dif-
tional products) have been at the forefront ferentfromconventionalones(Ilbery&Maye
(Ilbery & Kneafsey 2000). In this context, the 2005a; Sonnino & Marsden 2006). ‘The term
focus of many consumers shifts away from AFNs is used as a broad embracing term to
price, packaging and appearance and towards cover newly emerging networks of producers,
obtaining food products that can be traced to consumers,andotheractorsthatembodyalter-
particular people and places (Ilbery & Maye natives to the more standardized industrial
2005b). mode of food supply’ (Renting etal. 2003, p.
This turn towards healthy, local, and tradi- 394). Some of the common features of AFNs
tionalagri-foodproductshasbeenapproached arethat:(a)theyredistributevaluethroughthe
using the notion of quality. Quality, being a foodchainagainstthelogicofbulkcommodity
TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie–2011,DOI:10.1111/j.1467-9663.2010.00612.x,Vol.102,No.2,pp.220–235.
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ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 221
production;(b)theyreconvene‘trust’between spatially removed from the ‘hot spots’ of pro-
foodproducersandconsumers;(c)theyarticu- ductivist farming. According to Murdoch etal.
late new forms of political association and (2000),thoseareasthathavelargelyremained
market governance (Whatmore etal. 2003; marginal to industrialised agriculture are the
DuPuis & Goodman 2005). However, binary very areas where quality production might
opposites,suchaslocalfood/globalfood,short thrive. Attempts to record those alternative
food supply chains/long food supply chains, geographies include organic farming (Ilbery
arenotassimpleandclearcutand,therefore, etal. 1999), local products (Ilbery etal. 2006),
the distinctions between conventional and protected designation of origin (PDO) and
alternativeagri-foodproductsisblurred(Ilbery protectedgeographicalindication(PGI)prod-
&Maye2005a). ucts (Ilbery & Kneafsey 2000; Parrott etal.
Thishasledtotheemergenceofshortfood 2002),SFSCs(Rentingetal.2003)andinterna-
supply chains (SFSCs) as a more analytic and tional movements, such as fair trade (Renard
clear way to describe AFNs, avoiding the 2003).
unspecified adjectives ‘new’ and ‘alternative’ The content and extent of these alternative
(Renting etal. 2003). ‘The defining character- geographiesdiffersacrossEuropeancountries
istic of a SFSC is the ability to engender some with a clear distinction between southern and
form of connection between food consumer northern EU countries which is based on dif-
andfoodproducer[...]AllSFSCsoperate,in ferent perceptions of quality. In the northern
part at least, on the principle that the more EUcountriesmodern‘quality’definitions(e.g.
embedded a product becomes, the scarcer it foodsafety,traceabilityandanimalwelfare)are
becomesinthemarket’(Marsdenetal.2000,p. used,whileinthesoutherncountries(France,
425).FurtherworkonSFSCs(Wattsetal.2005) Spain, Portugal, Italy, Greece) ‘quality’ is
suggests that their defining features are that understoodinamuchwidersensereferringto
they form social (e.g. local food) and spatial sensorial characteristics of products, which in
(e.g.farmers’markets)alternativestothecon- turn are related to the geographical and
ventionalfoodchains.Moreover,SFSCscanbe human environment and their specificity/
alternative economically (e.g. reduction in typicity(Barjolle&Sylvander2000).Addition-
foodmiles)andtheycanprovideawiderrange ally, in the northern countries the de-
of produce. Ilbery and Maye (2005a) suggest spatialisation and de-socialisation of food was
also that one defining feature of the SFSCs is almost complete and the recent turn towards
the‘turntoquality’(e.g.specialisedandniche ‘quality’ food, which is characterised by a
markets). ‘spatial’ dimension, is considered to be a turn
Inreality,agri-foodbusinessesarenoteasily towardsnewagri-foodproducts(Marsdenetal.
labelledas‘alternative’or‘conventional’since 2000). However, in the southern countries
they‘dipinandout’ofdifferentsupplychains these products have never ceased to be pro-
according to the environmental context, the duced and were always linked to particular
market forces and the development of their placesandsocieties(Verhaegen&vanHuylen-
business(Ilbery&Maye2005b)andtherefore, broeck2001).AccordingtoParrottetal.(2002)
SFSCs can be viewed as hybridised (Ilbery & ‘quality’agri-foodproductsareassociatedwith
Maye2005a;Winter2005). marginaland/orperipheralregionsintermsof
SinceAFNsandSFSCscanbe‘spatiallyalter- their suitability for agriculture because such
native’ researchers started to investigate the regionshave,foravarietyofreasons,failedto
so-called alternative geographies of food fully engage with the productivist agricultural
(Whatmore&Thorne1997;Parrottetal.2002; model. To prove their point the same authors
Rentingetal.2003;Sonnino&Marsden2006). acknowledgethat70percentofPDOsandPGIs
These geographies revolve around changing in the EU 15 originate in less favoured areas
production and consumption relations and (LFAs2).
result in new regional and local food com- Onecategoryof‘quality’agri-foodproducts
plexes. Such complexes may, at least partially, arethosethatarelinkedtoaterritoryandare
develop into what Ilbery & Kneafsey (1998) characterised by a certification as a proof of
describe as ‘quality production areas’ that are thatlink.Thesearetheprotecteddesignations
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222 THANASISKIZOS&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS
oforigin(PDOs3),theprotectedgeographical to some extent to cultural and environmental
indications(PGIs)andthequalitywineswhich biodiversity (Berard & Marchenay 1998).
areproducedinspecifiedregions(QWPSRs4). Another benefit is the shifting of production
These certifications of quality are widely out of the ‘industrial mode’ (Marsden etal.
accepted,althoughunevenly,amongEUcoun- 2000) and the potential re-embedding of
tries. The number of PDO, PGI products and farmingtowardsmoreenvironmentallysustain-
QWPSRwinesisincreasing.Onthe1Septem- able modes of production (Tregear 2003;
ber 2004 there were 669 products in the Rentingetal.2003).
EU-25 (385 PDOs and 283 PGIs; <http:// Therefore,theassessmentoftheoveralleco-
ec.europa.eu/agriculture/agrista/2004/table_ nomicandsocialimpactsofgeographicalindi-
en/42491.pdf>accessedon7December2006), cations on their delimited areas needs to
whileby26January2009thenumberincreased addressthefollowingissues:(a)theeconomic
to 820 (453 PDOs and 367 PGIs; <http://ec. success of the product in the market, usually
europa.eu/agriculture/agrista/2008/table_ indicated by a higher market price compared
en/42491s1.pdf> accessed on 23 April 2009). tosimilarproducts;(b)thescaleofproduction,
From the total number of 820 PDO and PGI as economically successful products produced
products, 655 (79.9%) come from the five insmallquantitieshaveonlymarginalimpacts
southerncountries.Asfaras‘quality’winesare on their delimited areas, while others may be
concerned there are more than 10,000 geo- lesssuccessfulbuthavegreaterimpactsdueto
graphic indications (QWPSR and table wines their large production scale which involves
with geographic indications) in the various more people in the area; and (c) the distribu-
MemberStates(EuropeanCommission2006). tion of value along the supply chain, as some
As far as the certified products ‘impact is successful products may have very limited
concerned,thereareindicationsthattheycan impactsontheirdelimitedareasifthegreatest
improve the farmers’ incomes through the part of this success is yielded by extra local
localisation of production (Arfini etal. 2003). actors(e.g.supermarkets).Thehigherpriceof
This localisation can potentially be translated a PDO means little for its producers in the
intoretainingagreaterpartofthevalueadded delimitedareawhentheirprofitsaresmalland
by eliminating intermediaries (Van der Ploeg the largest share of the end-price is reaped by
etal. 2000) that typically receive an important thesupermarkets.
part of the overall value of a product, or by ThispaperfocusesonthegeographyofPDO,
creating rarity and scarcity (remuneration of PGIproductsandQWPSRwinesofGreece.We
locked-in resources) that theoretically can willfirstpresentthisgeographyandlinkittoa
increasethepriceandagainintheoryprovide number of key characteristics of the products
greater value to producers (Banks & Bristow (e.g. area of production, production in LFAs)
1999; and the case of the PDO Roquefort andthenfocusonspecificcasestudiesofprod-
cheese,Quetieretal.2005).Inmanycasesthese ucts to understand their importance and
products are produced on traditional small- impactontheirdelimitedareasofproduction
scalefarmsintraditionalwaysandintraditional (e.g. volume of production, number of busi-
landscapes. Therefore, the growing demand nesses that produce them). More specifically,
for those products can be used to sustain the wepresentthegeographyofthePDO,PGIand
traditional way of life and landscapes of QWPSR products in Greece in the following
Europe’s marginal farming areas (Gilg & Bat- section. The third section presents some find-
tershill 1998; European Commission 2004). ings from four case studies which are used to
Other social benefits include the preservation address their impact and importance in
of traditional know-how, cultural (Tregear Greece.Finallysomeconclusionsaredrawnin
2003),aswellasculinarytradition(Committee thelastsection.
of the Regions 1996). The continuation of
farminginthosemarginalareascanbeconsid- PDOS,PGISANDQWPSRSINGREECE
eredanenvironmentalbenefitinitself(Belletti
& Marescotti 2003). Moreover, human input On7April2005,therewere61PDOand23PGI
intotraditionalproductionsystemscontributes products in Greece. Moreover there were 28
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ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 223
QWPSRwines(20DOSQsandeightRDOs).All Prefecture. More examples7 prove that this
these products and their delimited areas5 are overlap between delimited areas of similar (if
presentedinTable1. notidentical)productsisnotaccidental,buta
The size of the delimited areas varies: some resultofdivergingstrategiesandgoalsofdiffer-
oftheproductsarecharacterisedbylargeorby ent local actors that fail to realise that these
verysmalldelimitedareas(e.g.theareaforFeta productsarecommonresourcesoftheareas.
PDO cheese is 114,379Km2, while for San
MichaliPDOcheeseis90Km2).Asmanyas11 CASESTUDIES:METHODANDFINDINGS
products are produced in just one community
(NUTS 56). The olive oil Thrapsano PDO is This general discussion provides an overall
characterised by the smallest delimited area framework for the geography of certified
(11Km2). As noted elsewhere (Zampounis quality agri-food products in Greece. What
2001), many of these areas, as well as their followsisananalysisoffourcasestudies,which
products, are unknown to the average Greek shedmorelightonthedifferencesamongdif-
consumer. ferent product types, production practices,
Regarding the type of the delimited areas supplychainsandimpactoftheseproductson
only three products are not produced in less theirdelimitedareas.
favoured areas (LFAs; Syka Vravronas Marko- The first refers to the four PDO olive oils
poulou Mesogeion PGI, Fistiki Aeginas PDO, (ArchanesIraklioKritis,ViannosIraklioKritis,
Fistiki Megaron PDO). Moreover, 54 products Thrapsano, Peza Iraklio Kritis) and three
(48.2%ofthetotal)areproducedexclusivelyin DOSQ wines (Peza Iraklio, Archanes Iraklio,
LFAs(Table1).Additionally,33ofthe84PDO DafnesIraklio),whichareproducedinthePre-
and PGI products (23 PDOs and 10 PGIs) are fecture of Iraklio, in Crete. We investigate the
produced exclusively on island territories, 36 relativesuccessofmanydifferentdesignations
(23 PDOs and 13 PGIs) on continental areas inasmallarea.Dataaboutthevolumesofpro-
and29(allPDOs)onbothislandandcontinen- ductionandtheenterpriseswhichproducethe
tal areas. From the 28 QWPSRs, 14 are pro- productswerecollectedviadirectcommunica-
duced exclusively on island territories and 14 tionwiththeDirectorateofRuralDevelopment
oncontinentalones.Theresultisthatalthough andFoodofIraklioPrefecturein2006.
islandterritoriesrepresentonly18.8percentof The second case study refers to the RDO
Greece’sterritory,67.8percentofthecertified wineproducedonSamosIsland,whilethethird
‘quality’ agri-food products are produced case study focuses on the Mastiha PDO resin,
there. The delimited areas of 21 products are ontheMastihelaioPDOessentialoilandonthe
not continuous geographically (Table1), as Tsikla PDO gum, produced on Chios Island
some products are produced on continental (Figure1). Both Mastihelaio PDO and Tsikla
areas and islands (e.g. Feta PDO) or on more PDO are products derived from the Mastiha
than one island (e.g. Kopanisti PDO in the PDO resin. In both of these cases, only one
wholeCycladesPrefecture),orduetothedefi- company produces the products mentioned,
nitions in their codes of practice (e.g. Mila but they are very different in terms of the
DeliciousPilafaTripoleosPDOisproducedin successoftheirproductsandtheirimpactson
all communities of the Prefecture of Arkadia thedelimitedareas,withthecertifiedproducts
withanaltitudehigherthan600metres). ofChiosbeinganexampleofbothsuccessand
In some cases, the designations are overlap- positiveimpacts,whilethoseofSamosaresuc-
ping, raising questions about the effectiveness cessful but with less positive impacts locally. A
ofthesedesignationsandtherationalebehind numberofkeyinformantswereinterviewedin
them.Astrikingexampleisthecaseoftheolive both cases in order to gain an insight into
oils Krokees Lakonias PDO and Petrina Lako- the volumes of production, the number of
niasPDO,whichareproducedintwoadjoining employedpersonnelandotherindicatorsthat
communities (one product in each commu- deal with the impact of the products on the
nity) of the Prefecture of Lakonia. These two areasofproduction.Interviewswereconducted
oliveoilscanalsobemarketedasLakoniaPGI duringAugust-October2005.FinallytheCodes
olive oil, a product produced throughout the of Practice of all products were examined to
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224 THANASISKIZOS&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS
Table1. PDOs,PGIsandQWPSsinGreece.
Category A/A Product Certification Delimitationarea Territorial %LFA Production
denomination continuity area(km2)
Cheeses 1 Anevato PDO PrefectureofGrevena,partofthe Yes 94.8 3,306
Pref.ofKozani
2 Galotyri PDO Epirus&ThessalyRegions Yes 76.9 23,212
3 GravieraAgrafon PDO PartofthePrefectureofEvritania Yes 80.6 1,641
4 GravieraKritis PDO CreteIsland Yes 87.5 8,342
5 GravieraNaxou PDO NaxosIsland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 431
ofCyclades)
6 KalathakiLimnou PDO LimnosIsland(partofthe Yes 100.0 478
PrefectureofLesvos)
7 Kasseri PDO Macedonia,ThessalyReg.,Lesvos, No 80.9 52,227
XanthiPref.
8 KatikiDomokou PDO PartofthePrefectureofFthiotida Yes 96.6 583
9 Kefalograviera PDO W.Maced.,EpirusReg.,Aitoloak., Yes 90.2 25,921
EvritaniaPref.
10 Kopanisti PDO PrefectureofCyclades No 100.0 2,600
11 LadotyriMytilinis PDO LesvosIsland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 1,639
ofLesvos)
12 Manouri PDO Thessaly,CentralandWest Yes 79.3 42,682
MacedoniaRegions
13 Metsovone PDO PartofthePrefectureofIoannina Yes 100.0 273
14 Batzos PDO WestandCentralMacedonia Yes 85.2 28,633
Regions
15 XynomyzithraKritis PDO CreteIsland Yes 87.5 8,342
16 PichtogaloChanion PDO PrefectureofChania Yes 97.9 2,377
17 SanMichali PDO SyrosIsland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 84
ofCyclades)
18 Sfela PDO PrefecturesofLakoniaandMessinia Yes 75.8 6,636
19 Feta PDO MainlandGreece,Prefectureof No 79.7 114,379
Lesvos
20 FormaellaArachovas PDO ArachovaMunicipality(partofthe Yes 100.0 138
Parnassou PrefofViotia)
Oliveoils 21 ApokoronasHanionKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofChania Yes 93.9 321
22 ArchanesIraklioKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 100.0 31
23 ViannosIraklioKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 100.0 164
24 VoriosMylopotamos PDO PartofthePrefectureofRethymno Yes 100.0 149
RethimnisKritis
25 Thrapsano PDO ThrapsanoCommunity(Prefecture Yes 100.0 11
ofIraklio)
26 Zakynthos PGI ZakynthosPrefecture Yes 100.0 407
27 Thassos PGI Thasosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 385
PrefectureofKavala)
28 Kalamata PDO PartofMessiniaPrefecture Yes 86.8 844
29 Kefalonia PGI PrefectureofKefalonia No 100.0 904
30 KolymvariHanionKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofChania Yes 94.5 214
31 KranidiArgolidas PDO PartofthePrefectureofArgolida Yes 100.0 421
32 KrokeesLakonias PDO KrokeesCommunity(partofthe Yes 100.0 61
PrefofLakonia)
33 Lakonia PGI PrefectureofLakonia Yes 85.3 3,639
34 Lesbos PGI PrefectureofLesvos No 100.0 2,159
35 LygourioAsklipiou PDO PartofthePrefectureofArgolida Yes 100.0 180
36 Olympia PGI PartoftheIleiaandAchaia Yes 69.3 1,714
Prefectures
37 PezaIraklioKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 98.0 127
38 PetrinaLakonias PDO PetrinaCommunity(partofthe Yes 100.0 29
Pref.ofLakonia)
39 Preveza PGI PartofthePrefectureofPreveza Yes 47.0 237
40 Rhodos PGI PrefectureofDodekanisa No 99.2 2,717
41 Samos PGI Samos&Ikariaislands(partofthe No 100.0 734
PrefofSamos)
42 SitiaLasithiKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofLasithi Yes 100.0 728
43 FinikiLakonias PDO FinikiCommunity(partofthePref. Yes 100.0 14
ofLakonia)
44 HaniaKritis PGI PrefectureofChania Yes 82.9 2,377
45 AgiosMathaiosKerkiras PGI AgiosMathaiosCommunity(partof Yes 100.0 22
KerkiraPref)
TableOlives 46 Kalamata PDO PrefectureofMesinia Yes 64.2 2,997
47 KonservoliaAmfissis PDO PartofthePrefectureofFokida Yes 82.1 416
48 KonservoliaArtas PGI PrefectureofArta Yes 73.2 1,609
49 KonservoliaAtalantis PDO PartofthePrefectureofFthiotida Yes 69.5 957
50 KonservoliaPiliouVolou PDO PartofthePrefectureofMagnisia Yes 97.8 573
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ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 225
Table1. Continued.
Category A/A Product Certification Delimitationarea Territorial %LFA Production
denomination continuity area(km2)
51 KonservoliaRovion PDO RoviaCommunity(partofthePref. Yes 100.0 57
ofEvia)
52 KonservoliaStilidas PDO PartofthePrefectureofFthiotida Yes 73.6 520
53 Trumba-Ambadia PDO PartofthePrefectureofRethymno Yes 100.0 181
RethimnoCrete
54 TrumbaThasu PDO Thasosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 385
PrefectureofKavala)
55 TrumbaChios PDO Chiosisland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 844
ofChios)
Fruit,vegetables, 56 MeliElatisMenalou PDO PartofthePrefectureofArkadia Yes 100.0 734
cereals,bread, Vanilia
pastry,cakes, 57 AktinidioPierias PGI PartofthePrefectureofPieria Yes 26.0 906
confectionery, 58 AktinidioSperchiou PDO PrefectureofFthiotida Yes 73.4 4,440
biscuitsand 59 KelifotoFistikiPhtiotidas PDO PartofthePrefectureofFthiotida No 68.0 3,712
otherbaker’s 60 KerasiaTragana PDO RodochoriCommunity(partofthe Yes 100.0 31
wares,fresh Rodochoriou ImathiaPref.)
fish,molluscs, 61 CorinthiakiStafida PDO PartofthePrefectureofAchaia Yes 86.0 536
crustaceansand Vostitsa
otherproducts 62 KumquatKerkyras PGI PrefectureofKerkyra No 94.7 640
63 MilaZagoraPiliou PDO PartofthePrefectureofMagnisia Yes 100.0 96
ofanimal
64 MilaDeliciousPilafa PDO PartofthePrefectureofArkadia No 98.6 728
origin
Tripoleos
65 MiloKastorias PGI PrefectureofKastoria Yes 98.5 1,724
66 XeraSykaKymis PDO PartofthePrefectureofEvia Yes 86.6 241
67 PatataKatoNevrokopiou PGI PartofthePrefectureofDrama Yes 100.0 872
68 PortokaliaMaleme PDO PartofthePrefectureofChania Yes 48.3 149
HanionKritis
69 RodakinaNaoussas PDO PartofthePrefectureofImathia No 70.5 112
70 SykaVravronas PGI MesogiaCommunity(partofthe Yes 0.0 82
Markopoulou Pref.ofAttica)
Mesogion
71 TsakonikiMelintzana PDO LeonidioCommunity(partofthe Yes 100.0 103
Leonidiou PrefofArkadia)
72 FasoliaGigantesElef. PGI PartofthePrefectureofFlorina Yes 100.0 293
PresponFlorinas
73 FasoliaPlakeMegalosp. PGI PartofthePrefectureofFlorina Yes 100.0 293
PresponFlorinas
74 FasoliaGigantesElefantes PGI PartofthePrefectureofKastoria Yes 100.0 995
Kastorias
75 FasoliaGigantesElef. PGI PartofthePrefectureofDrama Yes 100.0 872
KatoNevrokopiou
76 FasoliaKoinaMesosp. PGI PartofthePrefectureofDrama Yes 100.0 872
KatoNevrokopiou
77 FistikiAeginas PDO Aeginaisland(partofthe Yes 0.0 88
PrefectureofAttica)
78 FistikiMegaron PDO PartofthePrefectureofAttica Yes 0.0 330
79 Avgotaracho PDO PartofthePrefectureof Yes 35.0 461
Messolonghiou Aitoloakarnania
80 KritikoPaximadi PGI Creteisland Yes 87.5 8,342
Nonfood 81 MastihaChiou PDO PartofChiosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 323
productsand Pref.ofChios)
others 82 TsiklaChiou PDO PartofChiosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 323
Pref.ofChios)
83 MastihelaioChiou PDO PartofChiosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 323
Pref.ofChios)
84 KrokosKozanis PDO PartofthePrefectureofKozani No 94.7 651
Wines 85 Samos RDO PartofSamosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 356
Pref.ofSamos)
86 MuscatofLimnos RDO Limnosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 478
PrefectureofLesvos)
87 MuscatofRhodes RDO PartofRhodesisland(partof No 94.4 348
DodekanisaPref.)
88 MuscatofKefalonia RDO PartofthePrefectureofKefalonia No 100.0 47
89 MuscatofPatras RDO PartofthePrefectureofAchaia No 56.1 390
90 MuscatofRion/Patras RDO PartofthePrefectureofAchaia Yes 54.1 192
91 SitiaKritis DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofLasithi Yes 100.0 412
92 Rhodes DOSQ Rhodesisland(partofthePref.of Yes 98.6 1,408
Dodekanisa)
93 RobolaKefalonias DOSQ PartofKefaloniaisland(partof Yes 100.0 155
KefaloniaPref.)
94 PezaIraklioKritis DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 97.5 97
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226 THANASISKIZOS&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS
Table1. Continued.
Category A/A Product Certification Delimitationarea Territorial %LFA Production
denomination continuity area(km2)
95 ArchanesIraklioKritis DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 52.1 87
96 DafnesIraklioKritis DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 76.8 227
97 Santorini DOSQ Thira&Thirasiaislands(partofthe No 100.0 90
CycladesPr.)
98 Paros DOSQ Parosisland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 198
ofCyclades)
99 Limnos DOSQ Limnosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 478
PrefectureofLesvos)
100 MavrodafniofPatras RDO PartofthePrefectureofAchaia No 70.3 395
101 Patras DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofAchaia No 97.2 443
102 MavrodafniofKefalonias RDO PartofthePrefectureofKefalonia No 100.0 194
103 Naousa DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofImathia Yes 86.4 348
104 Nemea DOSQ PartsofthePrefecturesofCorinthia Yes 85.4 387
andArgolida
105 Rapsani DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofLarisa Yes 80.1 158
106 Mantineia DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofArkadia No 95.9 710
107 Zitsa DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofIoannina Yes 100.0 91
108 Amyntaio DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofFlorina Yes 100.0 392
109 Goumenissa DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofKilkis Yes 100.0 209
110 Angchialos DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofMagnisia No 55.3 107
111 CotesofMelitona DOSQ N.MarmarasCommunity(Pref.of Yes 100.0 119
Chalkidiki)
112 Mesenicola DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofKarditsa Yes 100.0 58
identifypossiblerestrictions,environmentalor end, different data sources are used for each
otherwise, in the products’ production tech- product(fordetailsseeTable2).
niquesandprocesses. Inthecaseofoliveoils,theproducts’codes
Thefourthcasestudyisamoregeneralone of practice (Table3) mostly deal with the
andreferstosomecheesePDOproducts:one description of the production process and are
of national importance, Feta PDO; one of notsubstantiallydifferentfromonecasetothe
regional importance, Ladotyri Mytilinis PDO; other. The only environmental restrictions
and one of local importance, Graviera Naxou refertotheprotectionoftheolivetreesbythe
PDO(Figure1). olivefly(dacusoleae).Inthecaseofwines,the
The indicators that are used initially were codesofpracticearemoredetailedbuttheonly
intendedtofollowsuggestionsalreadyexisting environmentalrestrictionsdealwithproductiv-
in the literature (e.g. Renting etal. 2003) for ity per hectare and irrigation practices. In the
farmers and producers and information on caseofcheeses,theonlyrestrictionsrefertothe
consumers and their choices and behaviour. raw material, milk, which must be produced
However, the absence of official or secondary from sheep and goats traditionally fed and
datamadetheuseoftheseindicatorsnotpos- adapted to the delimited areas of production.
sible. Moreover, the quantity and type of data Moreover, the diet of the animals must be
over the case studies varies due to either the basedonthefloraofthearea.
absence of data and/or the unwillingness of
various actors to assist us in collecting the PDO olive oils, DOSQ and RDO wines pro-
requireddata(e.g.insomecasestudiessuchas ducedinthePrefectureofIraklio,Crete–Four
the Mastiha products, wines of Samos and PDOoliveoils(ArchanesIraklioKritis,Viannos
Ladotyrialltheactorsinvolvedintheprocess- Iraklio Kritis, Thrapsano, Peza Iraklio Kritis),
ingwereinterviewedastheywerefew,whilein three DOSQs (Peza Iraklio, Archanes Iraklio,
otherssuchasFetaonlyafewwerecontactedas DafnesIraklio)andoneRDO(DafnesIraklio)
theactorsweremanyandfromthosecontacted winesarefoundinthePrefectureofIraklioon
less co-operated). Nevertheless, we attempted theislandofCrete(Figure1).
to use for the specific case studies what was Regarding the PDO olive oils, two of them
availableorcouldbecollected.Moreinforma- have not been bottled or marketed as PDOs –
tion would benefit the analysis greatly. In the upto2005(ViannosIraklioKritis,Thrapsano).
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ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 227
Figure1. Locationofcasestudyareas.
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228 THANASISKIZOS&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS
ndardisedPGI/totaldardised 0000n.a. n.a.n.a.n.a.60.97 14.81n.a.63.91 000000 registeris
%staPDO-stan 1 111 ethis
%standardised/otalproductionofPDO-PGI 000.4617.54 20202017.95 100100100 100100100 ngcompanies.Sinc edon7July2009)
Table2.Potentialproducersandprocessorsofselectedcertifiedproducts,producedandprocessedquantities. +++StandardisedTypeofProductDesignationPotentialProcessorsProcessorsProduction(cid:2)quantityintproductproducersintonnestonnes(years)(years) 5727n.a./02/0650(01)0(02–04)OliveoilThrapsanoPDO4424747n.a./05/11,631(89–91)0(02–04)ViannosIraklioKritisPDO2912727n.a./12/21,800(01)8.3(02–04)ArchanesIraklioKritisPDO1,0404797n.a./211/105,000(05)877.3(02–04)PezaIraklioKritisPDO2,93627784–1,491.9(02–04)298.3(02–04)WinePezaIraklioKritisDOSQ1,32227782–114.5(02–04)22.9(02–04)ArchanesIraklioKritisDOSQ1,03927783–128.7(02–04)25.6(02–04)DafnesIraklioKritisDOSQ/RDO2,26611131–5,788(96–02)1,039(05)SamosRDO2,2372111179520(01–04)520(01–04)CheeseLadotyriMytilinisPDO4,391211101036223981,781(94–03)81,781(94–03)FetaPDO206,3262101037909(88–03)909(88–03)GravieraNaxouPDO988611111115(98–04)115(98–04)MasticMastihaChiouPDO4,850611111186(05)186(05)TsiklaChiouPDO4,8506111110.22(05)0.22(2005)MastihelaioChiouPDO4,850 n.a.:notavailabledata(cid:2):Thisfigurereferstoallproducersthathavethelegalrighttoproducetheproduct.+:Authors’research.Foroliveoilsthefirstvaluereferstotheolivemillsandthesecondvaluetothebottlingcompanies.++:DataoftheregisterofAGROCERT(29/7/2009).Foroliveoils,thefirstvaluereferstotheolivemillsandthesecondvaluetothebottliincomplete,weprovidealsothosedata(processors,column5)thatcameupaspartofourownresearch.1.Vakoufaris(2007).<>2.EstimationbasedondatabytheNationalStatisticalServiceofGreece(2001,Availableatwww.statistics.gr.).3.EstimationbasedondatabytheUnionofViniculturalCo-operativesofSamos(2005).<>4.DOORdatabase(http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/database/index_en.htm).<>5.OfficialJournaloftheEuropeanCommunities,C241/12(29.08.2001).Availableathttp://eur-lex.europa.eu/en/index.htm.6.Vakoufarisetal.(2007).7.VakoufarisandKizos(2008).8.EstimationoftheDirectorateofRuralDevelopmentandFoodofthePrefectureofIraklio(2005).<>9.PASEGES(PanhellenicofUnionsofAgriculturalCo-operatives).Availableathttp://www.paseges.gr/portal/homePage.jsf.<>10.MinistryofRuralDevelopmentandFood(dataavailableathttp://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/database/index_en.htm;access<>11.ELOG(HellenicMilkOrganisation)(2008).Availableathttp://www.elog.gr/.
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ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 229
Table3. Restrictionsinthecodesofpracticeoftheproductsunderinvestigation.
Typeof Product Restrictions
product
Wine PezaIraklioKritis Theannualyieldcannotbemorethan12tonnes/ha.The
DOSQ irrigationofthevinesisnotpermitted.Agriculturalpracticesnot
traditionallypracticedarenotallowed.OnlytheKatsifaliand
Mandilarivarietiesarepermitted.
ArchanesIraklioKritis Theannualyieldcannotbemorethan10tonnes/ha.Onlythe
DOSQ KatsifaliandMandilarivarietiesarepermitted.
DafnesIraklioKritis Theannualyieldcannotbemorethan8tonnes/ha.Onlythe
DOSQandRDO Liatikovarietyispermitted.
SamosRDO Theannualyieldcannotbemorethan10tonnes/ha(ormore
than5.3tonnes/haforthenaturalsweetwine-grandcru).The
irrigationofthevinesisnotpermitted.Agriculturalpracticesnot
traditionallypracticedarenotallowed.OnlytheMuscatvarietyis
permitted.
Oliveoil ViannosIraklioKritis Theabatementoftheoliveflyhappensbysprayingthebait/
PDO insecticidemixfromthegroundorbyusingorganicfarming
PezaIraklioKritis methodsornoabatementatalltakesplace.Theolivesare
PDO collectedbyhittingthetreeswithsticksorwiththeuseof
ArchanesIraklio olive-harvestingmachines.OnlytheKoroneikivarietyis
KritisPDO permitted.Theoliveoilmustbeextravirgin.
ThrapsanoPDO Theabatementoftheoliveflyhappensbysprayingthebait/
insecticidemixfromthegroundorbyusingorganicfarming
methodsornoabatementatalltakesplace.Theolivesare
collectedbyhittingthetreeswithsticksorwiththeuseof
olive-harvestingmachines.OnlytheKoroneikivarietyis
permitted.Theoliveoilmustbeextravirgin.
Resin MastihaChiouPDO MastihaChiouisproducedfromthePistachiaLentiscusvar.Chia
(andTsikla tree.Theabatementofinsectshappensbysprayingfromthe
ChiouPDO, groundorbyusingorganicfarmingmethods.Sprayingis
MastihelaioChiou prohibitedduringthecollectionofMastiha.
PDO)
Cheese FetaPDO ThemilkusedfortheproductionofFetamustcomefromsheep
andgoatstraditionallyfedandadaptedtothedelimitedareaof
production.Theirdietmustbebasedonthefloraofthearea.
GravieraNaxouPDO ThemilkusedfortheproductionofGravieraNaxoumustcome
fromcows,sheepandgoatstraditionallyfedandadaptedtothe
delimitedareaofproduction.Theirdietmustbebasedonthe
floraofthearea.
LadotyriMytilinis ThemilkusedfortheproductionofLadotyriMytilinismustcome
PDO fromsheepandgoatstraditionallyfedandadaptedtothe
delimitedareaofproduction.Theirdietmustbebasedonthe
floraofthearea.
Archanes Iraklio Kritis PDO is bottled by just co-operative(UnionofCo-operativesofPeza–
one private enterprise in very small quantities UCP) and one private enterprise. The UCP, a
of about ten (2002–2003) to 15 (2004–2005) second degree co-operative of roughly 3,000
tonnes.During2003–2004theproductwasnot members that produces olive oil and wine, is
bottled at all. The only PDO olive oil with a comprisedof19firstdegreeco-operativeswith
mentionable production is Peza Iraklio Kritis around 6,000 hectares of olive oil trees and a
PDO which is bottled by two companies; one totaloliveoilproductionof5,000tonnesannu-
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