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ALTERNATIVE AGRI-FOOD GEOGRAPHIES? GEOGRAPHIC INDICATIONS IN GREECE tesg_612220..235 THANASISKIZOS*&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS** *DepartmentofGeography,UniversityoftheAegean,UniversityHill,Mitilini81100,Greece.E-mail: [email protected] **AParodosAp.Apostolou12,Varia-Mytilini81100,Greece.E-mail:[email protected] Received:August2009;revisedDecember2009 ABSTRACT The discussion about alternative agri-food products has led some researchers to proclaim the emergenceofalternativeagri-foodgeographies.Thispaperfocusesonthegeographyofcertified geographicalindicationsinGreece.Wefocusonanumberofkeycharacteristicsoftheproducts (e.g.areaofproduction,productioninlessfavouredareas)andanalysespecificcasestudiesof products, in order to understand their importance and impact (e.g. volume of production, numberofbusinessesthatproducethem)andinvestigatethechoicesofthisgeography.Evidence suggeststhatsomeGreekgeographicalindications(GIs)existonly‘onpaper’andthereforehave zero impact on their delimited areas. Furthermore, the impact of GIs depends not only on the characteristicsoftheproductbutonthecharacteristicsoftheenterprisesthatproducethemas well.Anew,althoughnotalternative,agri-foodgeographyisemerging. Keywords: Protecteddesignationoforigin(PDO),protectedgeographicindication(PGI),short foodsupplychains(SFSCs),alternativefoodnetworks(AFNs),qualitywineproducedinspecified regions(QWPSR) ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOOD sociallyconstructednotion,ischaracterisedby PRODUCTSANDALTERNATIVE continuous change, as people in different AGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES spatialandtemporalsettingsperceiveitdiffer- ently. To fully understand quality agri-food Inthelastfewyears,agri-foodproducts,which products, researchers turned to alternative are differentiated positively on a basis of envi- food networks (AFNs) and short food supply ronmental (e.g. organic products), hygiene chains(SFSCs)(Marsdenetal.2000).1Alterna- (e.g. nutritional, wholesome products) and tive food networks are variously and loosely socio-cultural characteristics (e.g. local, tradi- defined as networks that are in some ways dif- tional products) have been at the forefront ferentfromconventionalones(Ilbery&Maye (Ilbery & Kneafsey 2000). In this context, the 2005a; Sonnino & Marsden 2006). ‘The term focus of many consumers shifts away from AFNs is used as a broad embracing term to price, packaging and appearance and towards cover newly emerging networks of producers, obtaining food products that can be traced to consumers,andotheractorsthatembodyalter- particular people and places (Ilbery & Maye natives to the more standardized industrial 2005b). mode of food supply’ (Renting etal. 2003, p. This turn towards healthy, local, and tradi- 394). Some of the common features of AFNs tionalagri-foodproductshasbeenapproached arethat:(a)theyredistributevaluethroughthe using the notion of quality. Quality, being a foodchainagainstthelogicofbulkcommodity TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie–2011,DOI:10.1111/j.1467-9663.2010.00612.x,Vol.102,No.2,pp.220–235. ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG PublishedbyBlackwellPublishingLtd.,9600GarsingtonRoad,OxfordOX42DQ,UKand350MainStreet,Malden,MA02148,USA ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 221 production;(b)theyreconvene‘trust’between spatially removed from the ‘hot spots’ of pro- foodproducersandconsumers;(c)theyarticu- ductivist farming. According to Murdoch etal. late new forms of political association and (2000),thoseareasthathavelargelyremained market governance (Whatmore etal. 2003; marginal to industrialised agriculture are the DuPuis & Goodman 2005). However, binary very areas where quality production might opposites,suchaslocalfood/globalfood,short thrive. Attempts to record those alternative food supply chains/long food supply chains, geographies include organic farming (Ilbery arenotassimpleandclearcutand,therefore, etal. 1999), local products (Ilbery etal. 2006), the distinctions between conventional and protected designation of origin (PDO) and alternativeagri-foodproductsisblurred(Ilbery protectedgeographicalindication(PGI)prod- &Maye2005a). ucts (Ilbery & Kneafsey 2000; Parrott etal. Thishasledtotheemergenceofshortfood 2002),SFSCs(Rentingetal.2003)andinterna- supply chains (SFSCs) as a more analytic and tional movements, such as fair trade (Renard clear way to describe AFNs, avoiding the 2003). unspecified adjectives ‘new’ and ‘alternative’ The content and extent of these alternative (Renting etal. 2003). ‘The defining character- geographiesdiffersacrossEuropeancountries istic of a SFSC is the ability to engender some with a clear distinction between southern and form of connection between food consumer northern EU countries which is based on dif- andfoodproducer[...]AllSFSCsoperate,in ferent perceptions of quality. In the northern part at least, on the principle that the more EUcountriesmodern‘quality’definitions(e.g. embedded a product becomes, the scarcer it foodsafety,traceabilityandanimalwelfare)are becomesinthemarket’(Marsdenetal.2000,p. used,whileinthesoutherncountries(France, 425).FurtherworkonSFSCs(Wattsetal.2005) Spain, Portugal, Italy, Greece) ‘quality’ is suggests that their defining features are that understoodinamuchwidersensereferringto they form social (e.g. local food) and spatial sensorial characteristics of products, which in (e.g.farmers’markets)alternativestothecon- turn are related to the geographical and ventionalfoodchains.Moreover,SFSCscanbe human environment and their specificity/ alternative economically (e.g. reduction in typicity(Barjolle&Sylvander2000).Addition- foodmiles)andtheycanprovideawiderrange ally, in the northern countries the de- of produce. Ilbery and Maye (2005a) suggest spatialisation and de-socialisation of food was also that one defining feature of the SFSCs is almost complete and the recent turn towards the‘turntoquality’(e.g.specialisedandniche ‘quality’ food, which is characterised by a markets). ‘spatial’ dimension, is considered to be a turn Inreality,agri-foodbusinessesarenoteasily towardsnewagri-foodproducts(Marsdenetal. labelledas‘alternative’or‘conventional’since 2000). However, in the southern countries they‘dipinandout’ofdifferentsupplychains these products have never ceased to be pro- according to the environmental context, the duced and were always linked to particular market forces and the development of their placesandsocieties(Verhaegen&vanHuylen- business(Ilbery&Maye2005b)andtherefore, broeck2001).AccordingtoParrottetal.(2002) SFSCs can be viewed as hybridised (Ilbery & ‘quality’agri-foodproductsareassociatedwith Maye2005a;Winter2005). marginaland/orperipheralregionsintermsof SinceAFNsandSFSCscanbe‘spatiallyalter- their suitability for agriculture because such native’ researchers started to investigate the regionshave,foravarietyofreasons,failedto so-called alternative geographies of food fully engage with the productivist agricultural (Whatmore&Thorne1997;Parrottetal.2002; model. To prove their point the same authors Rentingetal.2003;Sonnino&Marsden2006). acknowledgethat70percentofPDOsandPGIs These geographies revolve around changing in the EU 15 originate in less favoured areas production and consumption relations and (LFAs2). result in new regional and local food com- Onecategoryof‘quality’agri-foodproducts plexes. Such complexes may, at least partially, arethosethatarelinkedtoaterritoryandare develop into what Ilbery & Kneafsey (1998) characterised by a certification as a proof of describe as ‘quality production areas’ that are thatlink.Thesearetheprotecteddesignations ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG 222 THANASISKIZOS&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS oforigin(PDOs3),theprotectedgeographical to some extent to cultural and environmental indications(PGIs)andthequalitywineswhich biodiversity (Berard & Marchenay 1998). areproducedinspecifiedregions(QWPSRs4). Another benefit is the shifting of production These certifications of quality are widely out of the ‘industrial mode’ (Marsden etal. accepted,althoughunevenly,amongEUcoun- 2000) and the potential re-embedding of tries. The number of PDO, PGI products and farmingtowardsmoreenvironmentallysustain- QWPSRwinesisincreasing.Onthe1Septem- able modes of production (Tregear 2003; ber 2004 there were 669 products in the Rentingetal.2003). EU-25 (385 PDOs and 283 PGIs; <http:// Therefore,theassessmentoftheoveralleco- ec.europa.eu/agriculture/agrista/2004/table_ nomicandsocialimpactsofgeographicalindi- en/42491.pdf>accessedon7December2006), cations on their delimited areas needs to whileby26January2009thenumberincreased addressthefollowingissues:(a)theeconomic to 820 (453 PDOs and 367 PGIs; <http://ec. success of the product in the market, usually europa.eu/agriculture/agrista/2008/table_ indicated by a higher market price compared en/42491s1.pdf> accessed on 23 April 2009). tosimilarproducts;(b)thescaleofproduction, From the total number of 820 PDO and PGI as economically successful products produced products, 655 (79.9%) come from the five insmallquantitieshaveonlymarginalimpacts southerncountries.Asfaras‘quality’winesare on their delimited areas, while others may be concerned there are more than 10,000 geo- lesssuccessfulbuthavegreaterimpactsdueto graphic indications (QWPSR and table wines their large production scale which involves with geographic indications) in the various more people in the area; and (c) the distribu- MemberStates(EuropeanCommission2006). tion of value along the supply chain, as some As far as the certified products ‘impact is successful products may have very limited concerned,thereareindicationsthattheycan impactsontheirdelimitedareasifthegreatest improve the farmers’ incomes through the part of this success is yielded by extra local localisation of production (Arfini etal. 2003). actors(e.g.supermarkets).Thehigherpriceof This localisation can potentially be translated a PDO means little for its producers in the intoretainingagreaterpartofthevalueadded delimitedareawhentheirprofitsaresmalland by eliminating intermediaries (Van der Ploeg the largest share of the end-price is reaped by etal. 2000) that typically receive an important thesupermarkets. part of the overall value of a product, or by ThispaperfocusesonthegeographyofPDO, creating rarity and scarcity (remuneration of PGIproductsandQWPSRwinesofGreece.We locked-in resources) that theoretically can willfirstpresentthisgeographyandlinkittoa increasethepriceandagainintheoryprovide number of key characteristics of the products greater value to producers (Banks & Bristow (e.g. area of production, production in LFAs) 1999; and the case of the PDO Roquefort andthenfocusonspecificcasestudiesofprod- cheese,Quetieretal.2005).Inmanycasesthese ucts to understand their importance and products are produced on traditional small- impactontheirdelimitedareasofproduction scalefarmsintraditionalwaysandintraditional (e.g. volume of production, number of busi- landscapes. Therefore, the growing demand nesses that produce them). More specifically, for those products can be used to sustain the wepresentthegeographyofthePDO,PGIand traditional way of life and landscapes of QWPSR products in Greece in the following Europe’s marginal farming areas (Gilg & Bat- section. The third section presents some find- tershill 1998; European Commission 2004). ings from four case studies which are used to Other social benefits include the preservation address their impact and importance in of traditional know-how, cultural (Tregear Greece.Finallysomeconclusionsaredrawnin 2003),aswellasculinarytradition(Committee thelastsection. of the Regions 1996). The continuation of farminginthosemarginalareascanbeconsid- PDOS,PGISANDQWPSRSINGREECE eredanenvironmentalbenefitinitself(Belletti & Marescotti 2003). Moreover, human input On7April2005,therewere61PDOand23PGI intotraditionalproductionsystemscontributes products in Greece. Moreover there were 28 ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 223 QWPSRwines(20DOSQsandeightRDOs).All Prefecture. More examples7 prove that this these products and their delimited areas5 are overlap between delimited areas of similar (if presentedinTable1. notidentical)productsisnotaccidental,buta The size of the delimited areas varies: some resultofdivergingstrategiesandgoalsofdiffer- oftheproductsarecharacterisedbylargeorby ent local actors that fail to realise that these verysmalldelimitedareas(e.g.theareaforFeta productsarecommonresourcesoftheareas. PDO cheese is 114,379Km2, while for San MichaliPDOcheeseis90Km2).Asmanyas11 CASESTUDIES:METHODANDFINDINGS products are produced in just one community (NUTS 56). The olive oil Thrapsano PDO is This general discussion provides an overall characterised by the smallest delimited area framework for the geography of certified (11Km2). As noted elsewhere (Zampounis quality agri-food products in Greece. What 2001), many of these areas, as well as their followsisananalysisoffourcasestudies,which products, are unknown to the average Greek shedmorelightonthedifferencesamongdif- consumer. ferent product types, production practices, Regarding the type of the delimited areas supplychainsandimpactoftheseproductson only three products are not produced in less theirdelimitedareas. favoured areas (LFAs; Syka Vravronas Marko- The first refers to the four PDO olive oils poulou Mesogeion PGI, Fistiki Aeginas PDO, (ArchanesIraklioKritis,ViannosIraklioKritis, Fistiki Megaron PDO). Moreover, 54 products Thrapsano, Peza Iraklio Kritis) and three (48.2%ofthetotal)areproducedexclusivelyin DOSQ wines (Peza Iraklio, Archanes Iraklio, LFAs(Table1).Additionally,33ofthe84PDO DafnesIraklio),whichareproducedinthePre- and PGI products (23 PDOs and 10 PGIs) are fecture of Iraklio, in Crete. We investigate the produced exclusively on island territories, 36 relativesuccessofmanydifferentdesignations (23 PDOs and 13 PGIs) on continental areas inasmallarea.Dataaboutthevolumesofpro- and29(allPDOs)onbothislandandcontinen- ductionandtheenterpriseswhichproducethe tal areas. From the 28 QWPSRs, 14 are pro- productswerecollectedviadirectcommunica- duced exclusively on island territories and 14 tionwiththeDirectorateofRuralDevelopment oncontinentalones.Theresultisthatalthough andFoodofIraklioPrefecturein2006. islandterritoriesrepresentonly18.8percentof The second case study refers to the RDO Greece’sterritory,67.8percentofthecertified wineproducedonSamosIsland,whilethethird ‘quality’ agri-food products are produced case study focuses on the Mastiha PDO resin, there. The delimited areas of 21 products are ontheMastihelaioPDOessentialoilandonthe not continuous geographically (Table1), as Tsikla PDO gum, produced on Chios Island some products are produced on continental (Figure1). Both Mastihelaio PDO and Tsikla areas and islands (e.g. Feta PDO) or on more PDO are products derived from the Mastiha than one island (e.g. Kopanisti PDO in the PDO resin. In both of these cases, only one wholeCycladesPrefecture),orduetothedefi- company produces the products mentioned, nitions in their codes of practice (e.g. Mila but they are very different in terms of the DeliciousPilafaTripoleosPDOisproducedin successoftheirproductsandtheirimpactson all communities of the Prefecture of Arkadia thedelimitedareas,withthecertifiedproducts withanaltitudehigherthan600metres). ofChiosbeinganexampleofbothsuccessand In some cases, the designations are overlap- positiveimpacts,whilethoseofSamosaresuc- ping, raising questions about the effectiveness cessful but with less positive impacts locally. A ofthesedesignationsandtherationalebehind numberofkeyinformantswereinterviewedin them.Astrikingexampleisthecaseoftheolive both cases in order to gain an insight into oils Krokees Lakonias PDO and Petrina Lako- the volumes of production, the number of niasPDO,whichareproducedintwoadjoining employedpersonnelandotherindicatorsthat communities (one product in each commu- deal with the impact of the products on the nity) of the Prefecture of Lakonia. These two areasofproduction.Interviewswereconducted oliveoilscanalsobemarketedasLakoniaPGI duringAugust-October2005.FinallytheCodes olive oil, a product produced throughout the of Practice of all products were examined to ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG 224 THANASISKIZOS&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS Table1. PDOs,PGIsandQWPSsinGreece. Category A/A Product Certification Delimitationarea Territorial %LFA Production denomination continuity area(km2) Cheeses 1 Anevato PDO PrefectureofGrevena,partofthe Yes 94.8 3,306 Pref.ofKozani 2 Galotyri PDO Epirus&ThessalyRegions Yes 76.9 23,212 3 GravieraAgrafon PDO PartofthePrefectureofEvritania Yes 80.6 1,641 4 GravieraKritis PDO CreteIsland Yes 87.5 8,342 5 GravieraNaxou PDO NaxosIsland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 431 ofCyclades) 6 KalathakiLimnou PDO LimnosIsland(partofthe Yes 100.0 478 PrefectureofLesvos) 7 Kasseri PDO Macedonia,ThessalyReg.,Lesvos, No 80.9 52,227 XanthiPref. 8 KatikiDomokou PDO PartofthePrefectureofFthiotida Yes 96.6 583 9 Kefalograviera PDO W.Maced.,EpirusReg.,Aitoloak., Yes 90.2 25,921 EvritaniaPref. 10 Kopanisti PDO PrefectureofCyclades No 100.0 2,600 11 LadotyriMytilinis PDO LesvosIsland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 1,639 ofLesvos) 12 Manouri PDO Thessaly,CentralandWest Yes 79.3 42,682 MacedoniaRegions 13 Metsovone PDO PartofthePrefectureofIoannina Yes 100.0 273 14 Batzos PDO WestandCentralMacedonia Yes 85.2 28,633 Regions 15 XynomyzithraKritis PDO CreteIsland Yes 87.5 8,342 16 PichtogaloChanion PDO PrefectureofChania Yes 97.9 2,377 17 SanMichali PDO SyrosIsland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 84 ofCyclades) 18 Sfela PDO PrefecturesofLakoniaandMessinia Yes 75.8 6,636 19 Feta PDO MainlandGreece,Prefectureof No 79.7 114,379 Lesvos 20 FormaellaArachovas PDO ArachovaMunicipality(partofthe Yes 100.0 138 Parnassou PrefofViotia) Oliveoils 21 ApokoronasHanionKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofChania Yes 93.9 321 22 ArchanesIraklioKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 100.0 31 23 ViannosIraklioKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 100.0 164 24 VoriosMylopotamos PDO PartofthePrefectureofRethymno Yes 100.0 149 RethimnisKritis 25 Thrapsano PDO ThrapsanoCommunity(Prefecture Yes 100.0 11 ofIraklio) 26 Zakynthos PGI ZakynthosPrefecture Yes 100.0 407 27 Thassos PGI Thasosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 385 PrefectureofKavala) 28 Kalamata PDO PartofMessiniaPrefecture Yes 86.8 844 29 Kefalonia PGI PrefectureofKefalonia No 100.0 904 30 KolymvariHanionKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofChania Yes 94.5 214 31 KranidiArgolidas PDO PartofthePrefectureofArgolida Yes 100.0 421 32 KrokeesLakonias PDO KrokeesCommunity(partofthe Yes 100.0 61 PrefofLakonia) 33 Lakonia PGI PrefectureofLakonia Yes 85.3 3,639 34 Lesbos PGI PrefectureofLesvos No 100.0 2,159 35 LygourioAsklipiou PDO PartofthePrefectureofArgolida Yes 100.0 180 36 Olympia PGI PartoftheIleiaandAchaia Yes 69.3 1,714 Prefectures 37 PezaIraklioKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 98.0 127 38 PetrinaLakonias PDO PetrinaCommunity(partofthe Yes 100.0 29 Pref.ofLakonia) 39 Preveza PGI PartofthePrefectureofPreveza Yes 47.0 237 40 Rhodos PGI PrefectureofDodekanisa No 99.2 2,717 41 Samos PGI Samos&Ikariaislands(partofthe No 100.0 734 PrefofSamos) 42 SitiaLasithiKritis PDO PartofthePrefectureofLasithi Yes 100.0 728 43 FinikiLakonias PDO FinikiCommunity(partofthePref. Yes 100.0 14 ofLakonia) 44 HaniaKritis PGI PrefectureofChania Yes 82.9 2,377 45 AgiosMathaiosKerkiras PGI AgiosMathaiosCommunity(partof Yes 100.0 22 KerkiraPref) TableOlives 46 Kalamata PDO PrefectureofMesinia Yes 64.2 2,997 47 KonservoliaAmfissis PDO PartofthePrefectureofFokida Yes 82.1 416 48 KonservoliaArtas PGI PrefectureofArta Yes 73.2 1,609 49 KonservoliaAtalantis PDO PartofthePrefectureofFthiotida Yes 69.5 957 50 KonservoliaPiliouVolou PDO PartofthePrefectureofMagnisia Yes 97.8 573 ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 225 Table1. Continued. Category A/A Product Certification Delimitationarea Territorial %LFA Production denomination continuity area(km2) 51 KonservoliaRovion PDO RoviaCommunity(partofthePref. Yes 100.0 57 ofEvia) 52 KonservoliaStilidas PDO PartofthePrefectureofFthiotida Yes 73.6 520 53 Trumba-Ambadia PDO PartofthePrefectureofRethymno Yes 100.0 181 RethimnoCrete 54 TrumbaThasu PDO Thasosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 385 PrefectureofKavala) 55 TrumbaChios PDO Chiosisland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 844 ofChios) Fruit,vegetables, 56 MeliElatisMenalou PDO PartofthePrefectureofArkadia Yes 100.0 734 cereals,bread, Vanilia pastry,cakes, 57 AktinidioPierias PGI PartofthePrefectureofPieria Yes 26.0 906 confectionery, 58 AktinidioSperchiou PDO PrefectureofFthiotida Yes 73.4 4,440 biscuitsand 59 KelifotoFistikiPhtiotidas PDO PartofthePrefectureofFthiotida No 68.0 3,712 otherbaker’s 60 KerasiaTragana PDO RodochoriCommunity(partofthe Yes 100.0 31 wares,fresh Rodochoriou ImathiaPref.) fish,molluscs, 61 CorinthiakiStafida PDO PartofthePrefectureofAchaia Yes 86.0 536 crustaceansand Vostitsa otherproducts 62 KumquatKerkyras PGI PrefectureofKerkyra No 94.7 640 63 MilaZagoraPiliou PDO PartofthePrefectureofMagnisia Yes 100.0 96 ofanimal 64 MilaDeliciousPilafa PDO PartofthePrefectureofArkadia No 98.6 728 origin Tripoleos 65 MiloKastorias PGI PrefectureofKastoria Yes 98.5 1,724 66 XeraSykaKymis PDO PartofthePrefectureofEvia Yes 86.6 241 67 PatataKatoNevrokopiou PGI PartofthePrefectureofDrama Yes 100.0 872 68 PortokaliaMaleme PDO PartofthePrefectureofChania Yes 48.3 149 HanionKritis 69 RodakinaNaoussas PDO PartofthePrefectureofImathia No 70.5 112 70 SykaVravronas PGI MesogiaCommunity(partofthe Yes 0.0 82 Markopoulou Pref.ofAttica) Mesogion 71 TsakonikiMelintzana PDO LeonidioCommunity(partofthe Yes 100.0 103 Leonidiou PrefofArkadia) 72 FasoliaGigantesElef. PGI PartofthePrefectureofFlorina Yes 100.0 293 PresponFlorinas 73 FasoliaPlakeMegalosp. PGI PartofthePrefectureofFlorina Yes 100.0 293 PresponFlorinas 74 FasoliaGigantesElefantes PGI PartofthePrefectureofKastoria Yes 100.0 995 Kastorias 75 FasoliaGigantesElef. PGI PartofthePrefectureofDrama Yes 100.0 872 KatoNevrokopiou 76 FasoliaKoinaMesosp. PGI PartofthePrefectureofDrama Yes 100.0 872 KatoNevrokopiou 77 FistikiAeginas PDO Aeginaisland(partofthe Yes 0.0 88 PrefectureofAttica) 78 FistikiMegaron PDO PartofthePrefectureofAttica Yes 0.0 330 79 Avgotaracho PDO PartofthePrefectureof Yes 35.0 461 Messolonghiou Aitoloakarnania 80 KritikoPaximadi PGI Creteisland Yes 87.5 8,342 Nonfood 81 MastihaChiou PDO PartofChiosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 323 productsand Pref.ofChios) others 82 TsiklaChiou PDO PartofChiosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 323 Pref.ofChios) 83 MastihelaioChiou PDO PartofChiosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 323 Pref.ofChios) 84 KrokosKozanis PDO PartofthePrefectureofKozani No 94.7 651 Wines 85 Samos RDO PartofSamosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 356 Pref.ofSamos) 86 MuscatofLimnos RDO Limnosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 478 PrefectureofLesvos) 87 MuscatofRhodes RDO PartofRhodesisland(partof No 94.4 348 DodekanisaPref.) 88 MuscatofKefalonia RDO PartofthePrefectureofKefalonia No 100.0 47 89 MuscatofPatras RDO PartofthePrefectureofAchaia No 56.1 390 90 MuscatofRion/Patras RDO PartofthePrefectureofAchaia Yes 54.1 192 91 SitiaKritis DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofLasithi Yes 100.0 412 92 Rhodes DOSQ Rhodesisland(partofthePref.of Yes 98.6 1,408 Dodekanisa) 93 RobolaKefalonias DOSQ PartofKefaloniaisland(partof Yes 100.0 155 KefaloniaPref.) 94 PezaIraklioKritis DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 97.5 97 ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG 226 THANASISKIZOS&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS Table1. Continued. Category A/A Product Certification Delimitationarea Territorial %LFA Production denomination continuity area(km2) 95 ArchanesIraklioKritis DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 52.1 87 96 DafnesIraklioKritis DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofIraklio Yes 76.8 227 97 Santorini DOSQ Thira&Thirasiaislands(partofthe No 100.0 90 CycladesPr.) 98 Paros DOSQ Parosisland(partofthePrefecture Yes 100.0 198 ofCyclades) 99 Limnos DOSQ Limnosisland(partofthe Yes 100.0 478 PrefectureofLesvos) 100 MavrodafniofPatras RDO PartofthePrefectureofAchaia No 70.3 395 101 Patras DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofAchaia No 97.2 443 102 MavrodafniofKefalonias RDO PartofthePrefectureofKefalonia No 100.0 194 103 Naousa DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofImathia Yes 86.4 348 104 Nemea DOSQ PartsofthePrefecturesofCorinthia Yes 85.4 387 andArgolida 105 Rapsani DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofLarisa Yes 80.1 158 106 Mantineia DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofArkadia No 95.9 710 107 Zitsa DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofIoannina Yes 100.0 91 108 Amyntaio DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofFlorina Yes 100.0 392 109 Goumenissa DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofKilkis Yes 100.0 209 110 Angchialos DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofMagnisia No 55.3 107 111 CotesofMelitona DOSQ N.MarmarasCommunity(Pref.of Yes 100.0 119 Chalkidiki) 112 Mesenicola DOSQ PartofthePrefectureofKarditsa Yes 100.0 58 identifypossiblerestrictions,environmentalor end, different data sources are used for each otherwise, in the products’ production tech- product(fordetailsseeTable2). niquesandprocesses. Inthecaseofoliveoils,theproducts’codes Thefourthcasestudyisamoregeneralone of practice (Table3) mostly deal with the andreferstosomecheesePDOproducts:one description of the production process and are of national importance, Feta PDO; one of notsubstantiallydifferentfromonecasetothe regional importance, Ladotyri Mytilinis PDO; other. The only environmental restrictions and one of local importance, Graviera Naxou refertotheprotectionoftheolivetreesbythe PDO(Figure1). olivefly(dacusoleae).Inthecaseofwines,the The indicators that are used initially were codesofpracticearemoredetailedbuttheonly intendedtofollowsuggestionsalreadyexisting environmentalrestrictionsdealwithproductiv- in the literature (e.g. Renting etal. 2003) for ity per hectare and irrigation practices. In the farmers and producers and information on caseofcheeses,theonlyrestrictionsrefertothe consumers and their choices and behaviour. raw material, milk, which must be produced However, the absence of official or secondary from sheep and goats traditionally fed and datamadetheuseoftheseindicatorsnotpos- adapted to the delimited areas of production. sible. Moreover, the quantity and type of data Moreover, the diet of the animals must be over the case studies varies due to either the basedonthefloraofthearea. absence of data and/or the unwillingness of various actors to assist us in collecting the PDO olive oils, DOSQ and RDO wines pro- requireddata(e.g.insomecasestudiessuchas ducedinthePrefectureofIraklio,Crete–Four the Mastiha products, wines of Samos and PDOoliveoils(ArchanesIraklioKritis,Viannos Ladotyrialltheactorsinvolvedintheprocess- Iraklio Kritis, Thrapsano, Peza Iraklio Kritis), ingwereinterviewedastheywerefew,whilein three DOSQs (Peza Iraklio, Archanes Iraklio, otherssuchasFetaonlyafewwerecontactedas DafnesIraklio)andoneRDO(DafnesIraklio) theactorsweremanyandfromthosecontacted winesarefoundinthePrefectureofIraklioon less co-operated). Nevertheless, we attempted theislandofCrete(Figure1). to use for the specific case studies what was Regarding the PDO olive oils, two of them availableorcouldbecollected.Moreinforma- have not been bottled or marketed as PDOs – tion would benefit the analysis greatly. In the upto2005(ViannosIraklioKritis,Thrapsano). ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 227 Figure1. Locationofcasestudyareas. ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG 228 THANASISKIZOS&HRISTOSVAKOUFARIS ndardisedPGI/totaldardised 0000n.a. n.a.n.a.n.a.60.97 14.81n.a.63.91 000000 registeris %staPDO-stan 1 111 ethis %standardised/otalproductionofPDO-PGI 000.4617.54 20202017.95 100100100 100100100 ngcompanies.Sinc edon7July2009) Table2.Potentialproducersandprocessorsofselectedcertifiedproducts,producedandprocessedquantities. +++StandardisedTypeofProductDesignationPotentialProcessorsProcessorsProduction(cid:2)quantityintproductproducersintonnestonnes(years)(years) 5727n.a./02/0650(01)0(02–04)OliveoilThrapsanoPDO4424747n.a./05/11,631(89–91)0(02–04)ViannosIraklioKritisPDO2912727n.a./12/21,800(01)8.3(02–04)ArchanesIraklioKritisPDO1,0404797n.a./211/105,000(05)877.3(02–04)PezaIraklioKritisPDO2,93627784–1,491.9(02–04)298.3(02–04)WinePezaIraklioKritisDOSQ1,32227782–114.5(02–04)22.9(02–04)ArchanesIraklioKritisDOSQ1,03927783–128.7(02–04)25.6(02–04)DafnesIraklioKritisDOSQ/RDO2,26611131–5,788(96–02)1,039(05)SamosRDO2,2372111179520(01–04)520(01–04)CheeseLadotyriMytilinisPDO4,391211101036223981,781(94–03)81,781(94–03)FetaPDO206,3262101037909(88–03)909(88–03)GravieraNaxouPDO988611111115(98–04)115(98–04)MasticMastihaChiouPDO4,850611111186(05)186(05)TsiklaChiouPDO4,8506111110.22(05)0.22(2005)MastihelaioChiouPDO4,850 n.a.:notavailabledata(cid:2):Thisfigurereferstoallproducersthathavethelegalrighttoproducetheproduct.+:Authors’research.Foroliveoilsthefirstvaluereferstotheolivemillsandthesecondvaluetothebottlingcompanies.++:DataoftheregisterofAGROCERT(29/7/2009).Foroliveoils,thefirstvaluereferstotheolivemillsandthesecondvaluetothebottliincomplete,weprovidealsothosedata(processors,column5)thatcameupaspartofourownresearch.1.Vakoufaris(2007).<>2.EstimationbasedondatabytheNationalStatisticalServiceofGreece(2001,Availableatwww.statistics.gr.).3.EstimationbasedondatabytheUnionofViniculturalCo-operativesofSamos(2005).<>4.DOORdatabase(http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/database/index_en.htm).<>5.OfficialJournaloftheEuropeanCommunities,C241/12(29.08.2001).Availableathttp://eur-lex.europa.eu/en/index.htm.6.Vakoufarisetal.(2007).7.VakoufarisandKizos(2008).8.EstimationoftheDirectorateofRuralDevelopmentandFoodofthePrefectureofIraklio(2005).<>9.PASEGES(PanhellenicofUnionsofAgriculturalCo-operatives).Availableathttp://www.paseges.gr/portal/homePage.jsf.<>10.MinistryofRuralDevelopmentandFood(dataavailableathttp://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/database/index_en.htm;access<>11.ELOG(HellenicMilkOrganisation)(2008).Availableathttp://www.elog.gr/. ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG ALTERNATIVEAGRI-FOODGEOGRAPHIES?GEOGRAPHICINDICATIONSINGREECE 229 Table3. Restrictionsinthecodesofpracticeoftheproductsunderinvestigation. Typeof Product Restrictions product Wine PezaIraklioKritis Theannualyieldcannotbemorethan12tonnes/ha.The DOSQ irrigationofthevinesisnotpermitted.Agriculturalpracticesnot traditionallypracticedarenotallowed.OnlytheKatsifaliand Mandilarivarietiesarepermitted. ArchanesIraklioKritis Theannualyieldcannotbemorethan10tonnes/ha.Onlythe DOSQ KatsifaliandMandilarivarietiesarepermitted. DafnesIraklioKritis Theannualyieldcannotbemorethan8tonnes/ha.Onlythe DOSQandRDO Liatikovarietyispermitted. SamosRDO Theannualyieldcannotbemorethan10tonnes/ha(ormore than5.3tonnes/haforthenaturalsweetwine-grandcru).The irrigationofthevinesisnotpermitted.Agriculturalpracticesnot traditionallypracticedarenotallowed.OnlytheMuscatvarietyis permitted. Oliveoil ViannosIraklioKritis Theabatementoftheoliveflyhappensbysprayingthebait/ PDO insecticidemixfromthegroundorbyusingorganicfarming PezaIraklioKritis methodsornoabatementatalltakesplace.Theolivesare PDO collectedbyhittingthetreeswithsticksorwiththeuseof ArchanesIraklio olive-harvestingmachines.OnlytheKoroneikivarietyis KritisPDO permitted.Theoliveoilmustbeextravirgin. ThrapsanoPDO Theabatementoftheoliveflyhappensbysprayingthebait/ insecticidemixfromthegroundorbyusingorganicfarming methodsornoabatementatalltakesplace.Theolivesare collectedbyhittingthetreeswithsticksorwiththeuseof olive-harvestingmachines.OnlytheKoroneikivarietyis permitted.Theoliveoilmustbeextravirgin. Resin MastihaChiouPDO MastihaChiouisproducedfromthePistachiaLentiscusvar.Chia (andTsikla tree.Theabatementofinsectshappensbysprayingfromthe ChiouPDO, groundorbyusingorganicfarmingmethods.Sprayingis MastihelaioChiou prohibitedduringthecollectionofMastiha. PDO) Cheese FetaPDO ThemilkusedfortheproductionofFetamustcomefromsheep andgoatstraditionallyfedandadaptedtothedelimitedareaof production.Theirdietmustbebasedonthefloraofthearea. GravieraNaxouPDO ThemilkusedfortheproductionofGravieraNaxoumustcome fromcows,sheepandgoatstraditionallyfedandadaptedtothe delimitedareaofproduction.Theirdietmustbebasedonthe floraofthearea. LadotyriMytilinis ThemilkusedfortheproductionofLadotyriMytilinismustcome PDO fromsheepandgoatstraditionallyfedandadaptedtothe delimitedareaofproduction.Theirdietmustbebasedonthe floraofthearea. Archanes Iraklio Kritis PDO is bottled by just co-operative(UnionofCo-operativesofPeza– one private enterprise in very small quantities UCP) and one private enterprise. The UCP, a of about ten (2002–2003) to 15 (2004–2005) second degree co-operative of roughly 3,000 tonnes.During2003–2004theproductwasnot members that produces olive oil and wine, is bottled at all. The only PDO olive oil with a comprisedof19firstdegreeco-operativeswith mentionable production is Peza Iraklio Kritis around 6,000 hectares of olive oil trees and a PDO which is bottled by two companies; one totaloliveoilproductionof5,000tonnesannu- ©2010TheAuthors TijdschriftvoorEconomischeenSocialeGeografie©2010RoyalDutchGeographicalSocietyKNAG

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The olive oil Thrapsano PDO is olive oil, a product produced throughout the .. The abatement of the olive fly happens by spraying the bait/.
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