Table Of Content

GARDE MA NGER garde manger the art and craft of the cold kitchen the culinary institute of america fourth edition JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. The Culinary Institute of America PRESIDENT Dr. Tim Ryan ’77, CMC, AAC EDITORIAL PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Lahey ’00 VICE-PRESIDENT, DEAN OF CULINARY EDUCATION Mark Erickson ’77, CMC EDITORIAL PROJECT MANAGER Margaret Wheeler ’00 SENIOR DIRECTOR, EDUCATIONAL ENTERPRISES Susan Cussen EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Shelly Malgee ’08 DIRECTOR OF PUBLISHING Nathalie Fischer Erin Jeanne McDowell ’08 Faculty Team Chef Mark Ainsworth ’86, PC III, CEC, CHE Chef Lynne Gigliotti ’88, CHE Chef Kathy Polenz ’73, CHE Chef Clemens Averbeck, CEC, CHE Chef Jim Heywood Chef Henry Rapp Chef Brad Barnes ’87, CMC, CCA, AAC Chef Tom Kief ’78, CHE Chef Charles Rascoll Chef Corky Clark ’71, CCE, CWE, CHE Chef John Kowalski ’77, CHE Chef John Reilly ’88, CCC, CHE Chef Gerard Coyac, CHE Chef Pierre LeBlanc, CHE Chef Michael Skibitcky, PC III, CCC, CHE Chef John DeShetler ’68, PC II, CCC, CHE Chef Hubert Martini, CEC, CCE, AAC Chef Jonathon Zearfoss ’80 CEC, CCE, CCP, Chef Michael Garnero, CHE Chef Bruce Mattel ’80, CHE CHE Chef Michael Pardus ’81, CHE Chef Greg Zifchak, CEC, CCE, CCP Finally, for their tireless efforts during every stage of the production of this book, we would especially like to thank Chef Clemens Averbeck, Chef Corky Clark, Lauren Fury, Chef Michael Garnero, Chef Lynne Gigliotti, Jamie Hall, Robert Kristof, Chef John Kowalski, Eleanor Martin, Chef Hubert Martini, Chef Michael Pardus, Chef Henry Rapp, Chef John Reilly, Chef Michael Skibitcky, Taliaferro Organic Farms, and Brent Wasser. This book would not have been possible without their keen insight, vast knowledge, and continuous devotion. ∞ This book is printed on acid-free paper. Copyright © 2012 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved Photographs © 2012 by Ben Fink Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600, or on the web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifi cally disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fi tness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of profi t or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. Wiley publishes in a variety of print and electronic formats and by print-on-demand. Some material included with standard print versions of this book may not be included in e-books or in print-on-demand. If this book refers to media such as a CD or DVD that is not included in the version you purchased, you may download this material at http://booksupport.wiley.com. For more information about Wiley products, visit www.wiley.com. Design by Vertigo Design NYC library of congress cataloging-in-publication data: Garde manger : the art and craft of the cold kitchen / the Culinary Institute of America. -- 4th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-470-58780-5 (cloth) 1. Cold dishes (Cooking) 2. Quantity cooking. I. Culinary Institute of America. TX830.G37 2012 641.7'9--dc23 2011021015 Printed in China 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 CONTENTS preface xii 1 the professional garde manger 1 2 cold sauces and cold soups 15 3 salads 85 4 sandwiches 159 5 cured and smoked foods 201 6 sausage 251 7 terrines, pâtés, galantines, and roulades 299 8 cheese 365 9 appetizers and hors d’oeuvre 443 10 condiments, crackers, and pickles 573 11 buffet presentation 611 12 basic recipes 637 glossary 667 bibliography and recommended reading 680 resources 684 recipe index 685 subject index 700 RECIPE CONTENTS 2 cold sauces and cold soups coulis, purées, and other sauces Artichoke Caponata 48 vinaigrettes Eggplant Caponata 49 Basic Red Wine Vinaigrette 27 Peperonato 50 Balsamic Vinaigrette 27 Piperrada 51 Truffl e Vinaigrette 28 Sofrito 51 Vinaigrette Gourmande 28 Pesto 52 Lemon Parsley Vinaigrette 29 Mint Pesto Sauce 52 Apple Cider Vinaigrette 29 Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto 53 Curry Vinaigrette 30 Cocktail Sauce 53 Mustard-Walnut Vinaigrette 30 Asian-Style Dipping Sauce 54 Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette 31 Cumberland Sauce 54 Roasted Shallot Vinaigrette 32 Peanut Sauce 55 Cherry Tomato Vinaigrette 32 Guacamole 56 Tomato Vinaigrette 33 Baba Ghanoush 57 Beet Vinaigrette 33 Cervelle de Canut 59 Tangerine-Pineapple Vinaigrette 34 Hummus 60 Guava-Curry Vinaigrette 34 Tapenade 60 Almond-Fig Vinaigrette 35 Muhammara 62 Grapefruit Emulsion 35 Hazelnut Romesco Sauce 63 dairy-based and egg-based dressings Garlic and Parsley Compound Butter 63 Basic Mayonnaise 36 Red Pepper Coulis 64 Aïoli 36 Huckleberry Sauce 64 Rémoulade Sauce 37 Apricot-Ancho Barbecue Sauce 65 Russian Dressing 37 Southwestern Barbecue Sauce 66 Green Goddess Dressing 38 Aspic 67 Creole Honey-Mustard Sauce 38 Chaud-Froid Sauce 67 Creamy Black Pepper Dressing 39 soups Roquefort Dressing 39 Gazpacho Andalusia 68 Ranch Dressing (Reduced-Fat) 40 Chilled Cucumber Soup with Dill, Leeks, Maytag Blue Cheese Dressing (Reduced-Fat) 40 and Shrimp 69 Yogurt Cucumber Sauce 41 Faux Caviar 70 Tahini Sauce 41 Cold Roasted Tomato and Basil Soup 72 salsas Cold Carrot Soup 73 Vichyssoise 75 Salsa Verde 42 Chilled Edamame Soup 76 Mango-Lime Salsa 43 Fresh Spring Pea Purée with Mint 78 Papaya and Black Bean Salsa 43 Chilled Cantaloupe and Champagne Soup 79 Salsa Fresca 45 Chilled Morello Cherry Soup 80 Chipotle Pico de Gallo 45 Caribbean Coconut and Pineapple Bisque 81 Pickled Ginger Salsa 46 Chilled Clear Borscht 82 Grapefruit Salsa 46 Smoked Poblano Salsa 47 vi garde manger 3 salads Lobster Salad with Grapefruit Emulsion and Tarragon Oil 152 green salads Peekytoe Crab Salad with Yuzu Gelée 154 Parson’s Garden Salad 107 Warm Salad of Hearty Greens, Blood Oranges, and Spring Herb Salad 108 Tangerine-Pineapple Vinaigrette 155 Apple-Endive Salad Wrapped in Prosciutto 109 Smoked Duck and Malfatti Salad 156 Georgia Peanut Salad 110 Southern Fried Chicken Salad 157 Baby Spinach, Avocado, and Grapefruit Salad 111 4 sandwiches Greek Salad with Feta Cheese and Whole Wheat Pita 113 hot sandwiches Caesar Salad 114 Mini Bacon-Crusted Scallop Burgers 164 vegetable salads Mini Hamburgers 165 Lobster and Mâche with Potato Salad and Vegetable Mini Mushroom Burgers with Caramelized Juice 116 Onions 166 Roasted Beet Salad 118 Croque Monsieur 167 Roasted Potato and Shaved Fennel Salad 119 Soft-Shell Crab Sandwich 168 Marinated Roasted Pepper Salad 120 Eggplant and Prosciutto Panini 171 Hearts of Artichoke Salad 121 Marinated Eggplant Filling 172 Haricots Verts with Prosciutto and Gruyère 122 Reuben Sandwich 173 Shaved Fennel Salad 123 Braised Sauerkraut 173 Roasted Corn and Tomato Salad 125 Falafel in Pita Pockets 175 Coleslaw 126 Duck Confi t with Apples and Brie on a Marinated Tomato Salad 127 Baguette 176 Lentil-Barley Mini Burgers with Fiery Fruit potato salads; pasta, grain, and Salsa 178 legume salads; and fruit salads Grilled Chicken Sandwich with Pancetta and Arugula Mediterranean Potato Salad 128 on Focaccia 180 German Potato Salad 130 Turkey Club Sandwich 181 Tabbouleh Salad 131 New England Lobster Roll 182 Lentil and Walnut Salad 131 Pan Bagnat 185 Israeli Couscous and Heirloom Grains 132 cold sandwiches Corona Bean Salad with Basil 133 Bahn Saigon (Saigon Subs) 186 Mixed Bean and Grain Salad 134 Muffuletta 188 Fattoush 135 Mediterranean Salad Sandwich 189 Fall Panzanella Salad 136 Curried Chicken Salad Open-Faced Sandwich 189 Soba Noodle Salad 139 Couscous and Curried Vegetable Salad 140 tea sandwiches and crostini Black Bean Salad 142 Bruschetta with Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Fontina 190 Thai-Style Green Papaya Salad 143 Fig and Walnut Bruschetta 191 composed salads and warm salads Egg Salad Tea Sandwich 192 Crème Fraîche Chicken Salad 143 Smoked Salmon Tea Sandwich 192 Salad of Crab and Avocado 144 Roquefort Butter and Red Pear Baked Goat Cheese with Garden Lettuces, Roasted Tea Sandwiches 193 Figs, Pears, and Toasted Almonds 147 Watercress Tea Sandwich 194 Avocado, Tomato, and Corn Salad 148 Cucumber Tea Sandwich 194 Buffalo Chicken Salad 149 Marinated Salmon with Fennel, Capers, and Crème Corona Bean and Grilled Baby Octopus Salad 150 Fraîche on Pumpernickel Bread 196 recipe contents vii Roast Beef, Brie, and Caramelized Onion Bacon and Grape Confi t 248 Sandwiches 197 Pork Rillettes 249 Avocado, Brie, Sprouts, and Country Bacon on Croissant 198 6 sausage Cucumber, Watercress, and Brie with Apricot Chutney on Walnut Bread 199 basic grind sausages Breakfast Sausage 268 5 cured and smoked foods Green Chile Sausage 269 cured foods Venison Sausage 270 Sweet Italian Sausage 271 Basic Poultry Brine 214 German Bratwurst 272 Basic Meat Brine (Beef and Pork) 214 Merguez 273 Basic Seafood Brine 214 Szechwan-Style Sausage 274 Basic Fish Brine 215 Gravlax 215 cold-smoked and hot-smoked sausages Norwegian Beet and Horseradish Cure 216 Kassler Liverwurst 275 Pastrami-Cured Salmon 218 Spicy Lamb Sausage 276 cold-smoked foods Summer Sausage 277 Landjäger 278 Smoked Shrimp 219 Smoked Duck Sausage 280 Smoked Salmon 220 Cajun Andouille Sausage 281 Fennel-Cured Salmon 222 Colombian Chorizo 282 Southwest-Style Smoked Salmon 223 Frankfurter 283 Beef Jerky 224 Bologna 284 Chile-Rubbed Tenderloin 226 Kielbasa Krakowska 285 hot-smoked foods poached sausages Citrus-Scented Hot-Smoked Sturgeon 227 French Garlic Sausage 286 Hot-Smoked Rainbow Trout 228 Fine Swiss Bratwurst 287 Smoked Turkey Breast 230 Mortadella 288 Smoked Duck 231 Chicken and Vegetable Sausage 290 Asian-Style Tea-Smoked Moulard Duck Breasts 232 Braunschweiger 291 Smoked Ham Hocks 233 Seafood Sausage 293 Basic Bacon 234 Apple and Blood Sausage 294 Smoked Pork Loin 235 Duck and Foie Gras Sausage 295 Tasso (Cajun-Style Smoked Pork) 236 Garlic Sausage 296 Smoked Whole Ham 237 dried sausages and fermented sausages Smoke-Roasted Sirloin of Beef 238 Dried Chorizo 297 Carolina Barbecued Pork Butt 239 7 terrines, pâtés, galantines, dried foods and foods preserved in fat Pancetta 240 and roulades Roman-Style Air-Dried Beef 241 terrines Cured Sardines 242 Pâté Grand-Mère 320 Duck Confi t 244 Pâté de Campagne 321 Pecan-Crusted Duck Confi t with Bread Pudding and Baby Spinach Salad with Shallot-Garlic Chicken Liver Pâté 322 Vinaigrette 246 Smørrebrød Leverpostej 323 viii garde manger