Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair: The Dermatologist's Perspective

155 Pages·2017·11.875 MB·English

by  Crystal Aguh, Ginette A. Okoye (eds.)

Crystal Aguh · Ginette A. Okoye Editors
Fundamentals
of Ethnic Hair
The Dermatologist’s Perspective
123
Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair
Crystal Aguh (cid:129) Ginette A. Okoye
Editors
Fundamentals of Ethnic
Hair
The Dermatologist’s Perspective
Editors
Crystal Aguh, MD Ginette A. Okoye, MD
Assistant Professor Assistant Professor
Department of Dermatology Director, Ethnic Skin Program
Johns Hopkins University School Department of Dermatology
of Medicine Johns Hopkins University School
Baltimore , MD , USA of Medicine
Baltimore , MD , USA
ISBN 978-3-319-45694-2 ISBN 978-3-319-45695-9 (eBook)
DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-45695-9
Library of Congress Control Number: 2016955803
© Springer International Publishing Switzerland 2017
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Foreword
When Drs. Aguh and Okoye fi rst told me of their plans to publish a book about
“ethnic hair,” I was enthusiastic in my support. There is a real need to educate all
physicians about ethnic hair practices so that we can better evaluate and counsel our
patients. As a white, male dermatologist from a small town, I can remember my
sense of ignorance when I was fi rst confronted with scalp and hair problems in
patients of other ethnicities. My self-education was pieced together over many years
and is certainly not yet complete.
W e need not feel ignorant any longer, because Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair: The
Dermatologist’s Perspective provides “one-stop shopping” for our self-education.
The book has many strengths including a very broad scope of topics and extremely
helpful images. Although the text is intended for a medically savvy audience, a
professional beautician would benefi t from exposure to the basic science of ethnic
hair care and to the hair loss conditions that their clients might experience. Our
patients who wish to self-treat or self-educate might also fi nd this book to be a use-
ful resource. The dermatologist will be gratifi ed to fi nd an explanation of the most
distinctive hairstyles as well as the many “this is what it looks like” illustrations.
Exhibiting some “cultural awareness” engenders trust in our patients, which trans-
lates to improved compliance with treatment.
The authors are to be applauded both for tackling this important subject and also
for creating a very readable and “user-friendly” book. Just looking at the illustra-
tions is an education in itself.
Leonard Sperling, MD, Col, MC, USA (Retd.)
v
Pref ace
M any of our patients present with complaints of hair breakage or hair loss. This is
not unusual, as studies have shown that alopecia (hair loss) is among the top fi ve
complaints in patients with ethnic skin. For a majority of these patients, developing
a healthy hair care regimen is a critical part of the treatment plan. This requires an
intimate understanding of the unique properties of ethnic hair as well as the most
common hair care practices among different racial and ethnic groups.
In this book, the reader will learn about the biological differences in hair struc-
ture among different races as well as fi nd a detailed discussion about hairstyling
practices and their potentially damaging effects on the hair. Additionally, we pro-
vide practical management recommendations from a dermatologist’s perspective.
We believe this book will be helpful not only to dermatologists but also to cosme-
tologists, hair professionals, and anyone else who has an interest in hair care. We
truly hope you enjoy our book.
Crystal Aguh, MD
Baltimore, MD, USA Ginette A. Okoye, MD
vii
Acknowle dgments
The editors would like to thank their husbands, Chike Aguh and Stephen Okoye, for
all of their encouragement and guidance during the writing of this book. This would
not have been possible without their unwavering support.
We would also like to thank Alessandra Haskin for her contributions to this book
which extend far beyond the chapters she coauthored.
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Contents
Part I Structure and Function of Hair
1 Chemical and Physical Properties of Hair: Comparisons
Between Asian, Black, and Caucasian Hair.......................................... 3
Alice He and Ginette A. Okoye
Part II Aesthetic Modifi cations of Ethnic Hair
2 Chemical Modifications of Ethnic Hair ................................................ 17
Alessandra Haskin , Ginette A. Okoye , and Crystal Aguh
3 Thermal Modifications of Ethnic Hair ................................................. 31
Alessandra Haskin , Crystal Aguh , and Ginette A. Okoye
4 Ethnic Hairstyling Practices and Hair Prostheses I: Dreadlocks ....... 43
Nashay N. Clemetson
5 Ethnic Hairstyling Practices and Hair Prostheses II:
Wigs, Weaves, and Other Extensions .................................................... 53
Alessandra Haskin and Crystal Aguh
6 Ethnic Hair Care Products ..................................................................... 67
Alessandra Haskin and Crystal Aguh
Part III Ethnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing
a Healthy Hair Care Regimen
7 Developing a Healthy Hair Regimen I:
Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Conditioning Regimen ........ 79
Crystal Aguh
8 Developing a Healthy Hair Regimen II: Transitioning
to Chemical-Free Styling (To Natural Hair) and Prevention
of Hair Trauma ........................................................................................ 91
Rawn E. Bosley , Chelsea Rain St. Claire , and Kayla St. Claire
xi
xii Contents
Part IV Hair and Scalp Disorders Secondary to Hair Care Practices
9 Seborrheic Dermatitis ............................................................................. 105
Jean-Claire Powe Dillon , Cynthia O. Anyanwu , and Katherine Omueti
Ayoade
10 Scarring Alopecias Related to Hairstyling Practices ........................... 111
Alice He , Alessandra Haskin , and Ginette A. Okoye
11 Pseudofolliculitis Barbae and Acne Keloidalis Nuchae ....................... 123
Chika Agi and Rawn E. Bosley
Part V Special Cultural Considerations
12 Ethnic Hair Considerations for People of African, South Asian,
Muslim, and Sikh origins ....................................................................... 137
Crystal Aguh, Mamta Jhaveri, Alice He, Ginette A. Okoye,
Brandon E. Cohen, and Nada Elbuluk
Glossary ........................................................................................................... 151
Index ................................................................................................................. 155
Contributors
Chika Agi , BS University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine , Pittsburgh , PA , USA
Crystal Aguh , MD Department of Dermatology , Johns Hopkins University School
of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA
Cynthia O . Anyanwu , MD Department of Dermatology , University of Texas
Southwestern Medical Center , Dallas , TX , USA
Katherine Omueti Ayoade , MD, PhD Department of Dermatology , University of
Texas Southwestern Medical Center , Dallas , TX , USA
Rawn E. Bosley , MD Doctor’s Approach Dermatology & Surgery , Okemos , MI , USA
Kayla St. Claire , BA U niversity of Illinois at Chicago College of Medicine,
Chicago , IL , USA
Chelsea Rain St. Claire , BS M ichigan State College of Human Medicine, G rand
Rapids , MI , USA
Nashay N. Clemetson , MD Department of Dermatology , The Johns Hopkins
University School of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA
Brandon E. Cohen, BS NYU School of Medicine, NY, New York
Jean-Claire Powe Dillon , BS Department of Dermatology , University of Texas
Southwestern Medical Center , Dallas , TX , USA
Nada Elbuluk , MD Ronald O. Perelman Department of Dermatology , New York
University , New York , NY , USA
Alessandra Haskin , BA Howard University College of Medicine , Washington ,
DC , USA
Alice He , BS Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA
Mamta Jhaveri , MD, MS Department of Dermatology , Johns Hopkins University
School of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA
Ginette A. Okoye, MD Department of Dermatology , Johns Hopkins University
School of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA
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