FT Weekend Magazine - May 28, 2022

44 Pages·2022·14 MB·English

MAY28/292022
FOOD &
DRINK
SPECIAL

May28/292022
FEATURES
18.
Superiorsardines
Adefinitiveguidetothetasteof
summer.ByBeeWilson
26.
Thesaladcreammanifesto
It’stimetoreclaimthisnational
culinarytreasure.ByTimHayward
30.
Lager’snewlook
Meetthebrewersgivinglager
amakeover.ByAliceLascelles
34.
▶ Strawberryfieldsforever
RavinderBhogal’ssumptuousode
totheultimatesummertimefruit
38.
Platinumplatters
RecipestocelebratetheQueen’s
jubilee.ByMargotHenderson
INTELLECT APPETITES WIT&WISDOM
9 TimHarford 14 SimonKuper 41 JancisRobinson 44 RobertShrimsley
Thegiftofgiving Whatmakesmadridismo? Thebestwinesat…Tesco Don’tgorabidoverthejubilee
10 CristinaCriddle 16 GillianTett 43 FantasyDinner 45 Games
Workingfroma WhyElSalvadorstillbelieves ByOliaHercules 46 TheQuestionnaire
subtropicalparadise incrypto SkyeGyngell,chefand
12 Gallery restaurateur
TimHaywardonthegreat
Britishpicnic
Issuenumber973•Onlineft.com/magazine•FTWeekendMagazineisprintedbytheWalsteadGroupintheUKand ONTHECOVER
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Marginaliaby
PPurobdliuschtiniogn::DDaapnhnnyeMKaocvkalcins,,ahdevaedrtoisfiandgvperrotidsiuncgt,ioFnT–Wdeaenkieenl.dmMacakglianz@infet.–codmapohrnme.akgosvcaocps@[email protected] NadineRedlich @FTMag
FT.COM/MAGAZINE MAY28/292022 5
Letters
Editor’snote aLabourgovernmentwouldpay Postingthis(first)commentis
Thankstoahelpfulletterfroma forpeopletobetreatedbyprivate probablyasignofarelapse:-(
magazinereaderinCarnforth,wehave healthproviders. WilliamviaFT.com
alteredtheplacementofthecrossword Thisiswhy,asStreeting
(seepage45).Fromnowon,itshouldbe accuratelyobserves,theNHS Findingfinewineinparadiseisn’t
slightlyeasiertofoldthemagazinein needsreform.It’snotsoobvious aseasyasimagined
ordertocompletethepuzzleonthego itneedsgreaterinvestment,just byJancisRobinson
withpenorpencil. thattheinvestmentshouldn’tend Aneco-resortthatpeople
upintheBritishVirginIslandsor havebeenflyingtoeveryyear
Insidethemindofapig inotherprivateaccounts.Noris for20years,andhasspecial
byHenryMance itobviousthatheisthepersonto refrigerationforwineflownin
Thankyouforafascinatingarticle overseethereform. fromallovertheworld…I’mall
onpigsascomplex,intelligent, JudithMartin,Winchester forpeoplegoingonholiday,but
sentientbeings.Itwasfullof itdoesnotsoundlikethereis
interestinginformationandraised Blairhadhisfaultsand,while anything“eco”abouttheplace.
importantethicalissues.So,itwas gettinglotsofthingsright,it’s Burrow01viaFT.com
perhapsalittletonedeaftoinclude truethathealsomadeafewawful
aporkrecipeinthesameissue. decisions.Butinthe48yearssince ▶ MAY21/22 Why‘womaninthewindow’issuch
TeresaGuerreiro,London the1974election,onlyoneLabour Insidethemindofapig anenduringthemeinart
leaderhaswonageneralelection. byTracyChevalier
Ienjoyedthearticle.I’vekept Onlyone.Onein48years. Whyisthewindowalmostalwaysat
pigsforover40years.Theyare Thepoliticalleftoftenseems theleftofapicture?
outdoorGloucestershireOld tovalueadherencetoideological ThoughtfulinLondonviaFT.com
Spots.Inthevillageshopavillager purityoverelectoralsuccess,but
said,“Stilllookingafterpigs?You iftheyevertireofbeingperennial I’mnotanexpertbutIonce
mustlovethem.” loserstheymayfindalittlemore readthatinwesternartwe
“Ido,”Ireplied.Theladyatthe “Blairism”couldhelpLabourwin tendto“read”picturesleft
countersaidshecouldn’tasshe anotherelection...NowIdon’t torightandtoptobottom
wouldnotbeabletotakethemto knowwhetherMrStreetingwould becauseofhowwewrite.This
slaughter.Isaid,“WhenIunload makeagoodpartyleader,let roughconventionisusedin
mybeautiful,welllookedafterpigs aloneagoodprimeminister,but filmstooformotion.Inthe
forslaughter,Iamproudofthe Lordknowsthecountryneedsan Vermeerpainting,forinstance,
goodjobI’vedone.” electableopposition. itisdefinitelythemost
WhenIhelpedoutatthevillage HarryLimeviaFT.com interestingdirectiontoread
primaryschoolsomeyearsago,the thepainting.
headteacheraskedme,“Whatdo IsittimetoleaveTwitter LimeflatviaFT.com
youthinkofmyclass[offour-and forMastodon?
five-year-olds]?”. byElaineMoore Nice.However,for“art”inthetitle
“Theyarejustlikeapenofpigs,” I’vemanagedtoavoidtweeting read“westernart”.
Isaid.Shewasoffended…She anythingatallforaboutfouryears BonyJoeviaFT.com
doesn’tknowpigs. now.IdidbrieflytryMastodon
NickAlexander,Bacton,Norfolk butitjustmademefeellonelier. PedantsAnon
Keepingajournaldefinitelyhelps– ReadinganarticleinWeekend
ManinthemiddleWesStreeting yougetwhateveryouneedtogetoff FT,Iwasdelightedtoseethe
byGeorgeParkerandJimPickard yourmindwithouthavingtoedit word“soon”notprecededby
TOCONTRIBUTE
It’sobviouslygoodnewsthatWes it,worryingwhatanyoneelsewill thesuperfluousword“anytime”.
Streeting’scancerwasquicklyand thinkornoticinghowlittlereaction Youcancommentonourarticlesonline Ilookforwardtothedaywhen
[email protected].
successfullytreatedontheNHS. it’sgetting.Andifitturnsoutto “ever”isnotprecededbythe
Pleaseincludeadaytimetelephone
TheauthorswritethatStreetinghas beanygood,youcanalwaysputit oxymoronword“never”.
numberandfulladdress(notfor
brokenatabooontheleftbysaying onyourblog. publication).Lettersmaybeedited. AdrianDanson,Lewes
DidyouknowFTWeekendhasapodcast?Weexploretoday’s ”eniloraCteewS“=sacuLeniloraC+teewSehT
culture,bigideas,nuancedquestionsandwhatitmeansto ziuqerutciP
tseraeDeimmoM.01
liveagoodlife.Joinusforinspiringconversations,in-depth anaN.9sgelgnolyddaD.8leafdaCrehtorB.7
ecitsuJ4srehtaF.6tcAretsiS.5 asereTrehtoM.4
storytelling,abitofescapismandalotoffun.Search‘FT ”nisuoCtcefrePyM“.3airanaCnarG.2aynaVelcnU.1
Weekend’whereyoulisten,orft.com/ftweekendpodcast sevitalersawknilehT
srewsnaziuQ
6 FT.COM/MAGAZINE MAY28/292022

IInside:‘nDad’sneverinthepicture,attleastnotsoyoucaensee’p12 llect
UndercoverEconomist
TIMHARFORD
Pleaseconsidergiving
“Itisnotfromthebenevolenceofthebutcher,thebrewer,
orthebakerthatweexpectourdinner,”wroteAdamSmith,
famously,inTheWealthofNations,“butfromtheirregardtotheir
owninterest.Weaddressourselves,nottotheirhumanitybutto
theirself-love.”
Trueenough.Andyetmyrecentexperienceisthatthereis
muchtobesaidforaddressingourselvesnottopeople’sself-love
buttotheirhumanity.
IrecentlypostedaTwitterthreadtellingpeoplewhatwason
mymind.IexplainedthatmyfatherAdrianhaddied.Iposted
photographsanddescribedhislife:hiscuriosity,hisintelligence,
hisshymodesty.Itoldhowmyfatherhaddevotedhimselftothe
careofmydyingmotherinthe1990s,andhadsomehowheld
downhisjob,kepthischildrenattendingschoolandmadesure
therewasfoodonthetable.AndIdescribedthesensitivecare
myfatherandmotherhadbothreceivedattheFlorenceNightin-
galehospiceinAylesbury.And,finally,Iaskedpeopletoconsider
givingmoneytothehospice.
Peoplearekind,soIwasn’tsurprisedtogetawarmresponse.
WhatIdidnotexpectwastoreceiveanonymousdonationsof
threeorevenfourfigures.Itseemedalotofmoneytogiveincog-
nitotoalocalcharityinaplaceyoumightnevervisit,inmemory
ofamanyouprobablynevermet.▶
FT.COM/MAGAZINE MAY28/292022 ILLUSTRATIONBYGUILLEMCASASÚS 99
Intellect
◀Economists have a number of theories to explain why NotesfromtheCuttingEdge
anyonegivestoacharitablecause.Themostcynical–truesome- CRISTINA
times,clearlyfalseinthiscase–isthatpeopleareostentatiously
demonstratingtheirgenerosityandtheirriches. CRIDDLE
Attheotherendofthespectrumis“purealtruism”.Justas
Programmers
rationalconsumersmaximisetheirgainsassavvyshoppers,
pickingupthebestproductsatthecheapestpossibleprice,pure inparadise
altruistsalsoseekthebiggestimpactfortheirspending.Thedif-
ferenceismerelythatpurealtruistsareaimingtomaximisethe
utilityofotherpeople.
Thatdoesn’tquiteseemtocoveriteither.Thereisacommu-
nityof“effectivealtruists”outthere,buttheytendtopreferhard
evidence,notmemorialthreadsonTwitter. “Whatlanguagesdoyouhave?” me.“Forcomputerdorks,workisthe
TheeconomistsDeanKarlanandDanielWoodhaveshown the German asks the Dutchman. onlysocialisationtheyhave.”
thereisatensionbetweenevidenceandemotion.Theytestedout “Python,” he replies. Looking up The co-working space offers
fundraisingmailshotswithatear-jerkingstoryaboutanamed from my keyboard, I realise they tablesindoorsandout,butIsoon
beneficiary:“She’sknownnothingbutabjectpovertyherentire meancomputercode,unfortunately discoverthatworkinginthesunis
life.”Othersgotthesameemotivetalealongsideaparagraph notsomethingI’mfluentin. impractical:thechairsaren’tergo-
attestingtothe“rigorousscientificmethodologies”thatdemon- Ihavetemporarilyjoinedaco- nomic,lightreflectsoffscreensand
stratedthecharity’simpact. working,co-livingspacepopulated devicesoverheat.Insideisn’tmuch
KarlanandWoodfoundthatsomepeoplewho’dpreviously almost exclusively by software better,astheset-upisuncomforta-
givenbigdonationscamebackandgaveevenmore,impressed engineers,programmersanddevel- ble,moreloungethanoffice.
bytheevidenceofeffectiveness.Butsmallerdonorsgaveless. opers.BothBigTechandsmallhave “Doesanyonegetanyworkdone
PApparently,thescientificevidenceturnedthemoff. embraced remote culture, with here?” wonders Terri Tiemann, a
GoogleandAirbnbannouncingthey techrecruiter.She’saveterandigital
erhapstheyweregivingbecauseofwhattheecon- willallowemployeestoworkfrom nomad,havinghadnofixedaddress
omistJamesAndreonicallsthe“warmglow”,and anywhere.Inthesmallprint,most foryears.“Theonlygoodthingto
JohnList,anothereconomist,terms“impurealtru- companiesspecifyaperiodofunder comeoutofCovid…iscompanies
ism”.Warm-glowgivingismotivatedbyaltruism a month, as working abroad for havetoletpeopleworkremotely,”
ofafuzzierkind.Ratherthancalculatingthemost longercanhavetaximplications. Tiemannsays.WorkersIspeakto
effectivetargetforourdonations,insteadwegive Thetrendhasledtoaflockofstart- saytheychoseOutsiteasshort-term
becauseitfeelsgoodtobelievewe’redoinggood. upsofferingcommunalofficesand rentals such as Airbnbwerefully
Becausewarm-glowgivingisemotionalratherthanrational,it accommodation.SantaCruz-based booked,tooexpensiveortooremote.
raisesthequestionofhowtopersuadepeopletogetthemselvesin Outsite, which launched in 2015, Flexibility can boost employee
themoodtodonate.NobodywasbetteratthisgamethanCharles hasopened25newsitesinthepast wellbeing,withonesurveyofnearly
SumnerWard,whointhelate19thandearly20thcenturieswent twoyears.OneisonthePortuguese 12,500 global respondents find-
onahotstreakraisingmoneyfortheYMCA,theBoyScouts, island of Madeira. ingremoteworkers
MasonicTemplesandotheremployersofhisformidabletalents. ThevillageofPonta were 20 per cent
Atyogabythesea,I
Warddeployedtacticsthatnowseemverymodern,including do Sol rebranded happier. Academic
thinkaboutthetime
artificialdeadlines,largedonorswhopledgedfundsonlyifthey itselfasadestination studies on produc-
werematchedbysmallerdonations,publicitystunts,acampaign for“digitalnomads” Iwasteinmyworking tivityaremixed,but
clockshowingprogresstowardsanoften-arbitrarygoalandlittle lastyear,hopingto daythatcouldbe onesmallstudyfrom
wearableflagsthatdonorscoulddisplay.Someoftheseideasare attractworkersafter spentexploring Cambridge found
nowproventoincreasedonations,butsocialscientistscontinue tourismcollapsedin thatremoteworkers
toaskwhatmakespeoplegive. thepandemic. spent more time in
CynthiaCryderandGeorgeLoewensteinhavefoundthattan- IflyoutoneThursdaymorning “lowquality”meetings,translating
gibilitymatters.Peoplegivemoregenerouslyiftheyhavefirst fromGatwickandgetataxifromthe intolessproductivity.
beenaskedtopickacharityfromalistthanifthey’reshownthe airport.AtOutsite,Iletmyselfinto “I don’t even have to tell work
listandaskedfirsttochooseadonationamount,thentopickthe myroom–whitewalls,adeskand whereIam,”saysLucieZajíčková,
charitytoreceivethatdonation.Theyalsodonatemoreifgiven abalcony–thenfindmywaytothe who works for a European tech
specificexamplesofprojectsthecharitydoes,ratherthanamore co-workinglounge.BeforeI’veeven company.Shefillshersparetime
genericdescription.Beingabletoclearlypicturehowthemoney openedmylaptop,Iammetwith trekking,surfingandvolunteering.I
wouldbespentinducedpeopletoopentheirwallets. introductionsfromfellowworkers. joinherforyogabytheseaandthink
Perhapsthisexplainswhypeopleweresogenerous.Iwasvery Shane Sibley, a Canadian who aboutthetimeeachworkingdaythat
specificaboutmyfather’slife,myparents’deathsandtheway worksatatravelagencythattakes couldbespentexploring.
thisparticularhospicehadhelpedthem.Ratherthandonating bookings in crypto, arrived two While I lie in corpse pose, my
toanabstractideal,peopleweregivingmoneytosomethingthey weeksagobuthasbeentravelling alarmbuzzes:myteam’smorning
couldpictureclearly. foralmostayear.“Iwentonvacation meeting.Mycolleaguesarejealous
DeanKarlanpromptedmetoconsideroneotherthing:that andnevercameback.” ofmysunnybackdrop.Iassurethem
peoplewhoregularlyreadmycolumnorlistentomypodcast Thepeoplearefriendly,remote- I’mworkinghard,butI’mnotsure
havearelationshipwithme,andmythreadonTwittercreated workevangelists,buttheyarealmost theybuyit.Intruth,Imisstheface-
anopportunityforthemtomarkthatrelationshipwithcompas- allyoung,unattachedortravelling to-face exchanges, the routine
sionandgenerosity.Whateverthereason,Iamgrateful.Andif withapartner.ASlackchannelrun andseparationofhomeandoffice.
thiscolumnpromptsawarmglow,indulgeyourself.Findachar- bythelocalgovernmentadvertises Emailspileupasmyproductivity
itythatmeanssomethingtoyou,andgivesomethinginmemory yoga,whalewatchingandlifecoach- flatlines.Afterfourdays,I’mrelieved
ofsomeonewhomatteredtoyou.Thealtruismmaybe“impure”, ing.ButIamnotconvincedeveryone toflyhome.
buttodogoodfeelsgood. couldthrivehere.“Techbrosdon’t
dowellontheirown,”ahacker,who CristinaCriddleisatechnology
TimHarford’slatestbookis“HowtoMaketheWorldAddUp” preferstoremainanonymous,tells reporterattheFT
10 FT.COM/MAGAZINE MAY28/292022