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FT Weekend Magazine - June 11, 2022 PDF

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JUNE 11/12 2022 Who wants to own a hotel now? June11/122022 FEATURES 18. Checkingin Alittle-known,fast-growing Americanhotelchainaimsto changethefutureoftheindustry. Canit?ByBrookeMasters 24. Americanodyssey WhatphotographerJimDow’sroad epiccapturesabouttheUS 36. ▶ Positivelymedieval Anancientmanuscriptyields delectablesecrets.ByPollyRussell A EL U R Y A B AL INTELLECT APPETITES WIT&WISDOM 9 TimHarford 14 SimonKuper 33 TimHayward 44 RobertShrimsley Learningtothink Sport’smeritocracyvs Discoveriesfromafunkycellar Thekeytohappiness:effective requirestheheart politics’chumocracy 34 Recipe advanceplanning 10 LeoLewis 16 GillianTett Spaghettivongole 45 Games Ourhouseholdis TheTaooftraintravel 41 JancisRobinson 46 TheQuestionnaire hopelesslydeadlocked Cinemasparadiso EdwardCarey,authorandartist 12 Gallery GarethMcConnell’sflowers Issuenumber975•Onlineft.com/magazine•FTWeekendMagazineisprintedbytheWalsteadGroupintheUKand ONTHECOVER publishedbyTheFinancialTimesLtd,BrackenHouse,1FridayStreet,LondonEC4M9BT©TheFinancialTimesLtd2022 IllustrationbyLisaSheehan Nopartofthismagazinemaybereproducedinanyformwithoutthepriorexpresspermissionofthepublisher Marginaliaby PPurobdliuschtiniogn::DDaapnhnnyeMKaocvkalcins,,ahdevaedrtoisfiandgvperrotidsiuncgt,ioFnT–Wdeaenkieenl.dmMacakglianz@infet.–codmapohrnme.akgosvcaocps@[email protected] NadineRedlich @FTMag FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE11/122022 5 Letters Finedining’sreckoning Weallneedtomovemoreand byincreasingtheirelectrification byImogenWest-Knights somehowmimicwhatourancestors withsaferdesignandmanaging IhadwantedtogotoNomafor didtopromotebetterhealth.The congestionthroughpricing.All years.DuringCovidtimes,they chairwasfirstrecordedabout meansoftransporthaveaplace prettymuchfiredtheirentire 3,000BCwhenpeopleweremuch inprovidingmobilityforcertain “family”withlittlenotice.Alotof smallerandlighter,andhadalife purposesattherightplaceandtime. poorlypaidyoungpeoplewithno expectancyofperhaps35years. Increaseofpersonalandfreight savingswhoseidentitywasbuilt Theysatinthemnottowork,more mobilityisaconditionforincreased aroundtheprestigeofNomagot likelytorestbriefly.Yetsomehow prosperity.Spatialmonopolies brokenthatday. thissimpleobjecthasmorphed areonlybrokenbyimproving TheemailIgotaboutitwas intotheaccepteddefaultpostural transport.Ifwereducemobility, suchaloadofPRwafflethatany solutionforthehumanrace. wefallpreytomonopolistic half-intelligentpersoncouldread StevieD123viaFT.com employers,shopkeepersor betweenthelinesandseewhat landlords.Thatwasthecondition theyreallythoughtoftheirstaff. Nitrousoxide,madnessand intheMiddleAgesanditonly I’mnotinterestedingoingthere Roget’sThesaurus improvedwithindustrialisation anymore,especiallyafterreading byThomasWHodgkinson andmoreeffectivetransport. thisarticle. Anexcellentpiecewithasplendid ▶ JUNE4/5 MarcialEchenique, AndyKaufmannviaFT.com cartoontoillustrateHumphry Copenhagen’sculinarydemons UniversityofCambridge Davy’slossof“allconnectionwith Myexperiencesasakitchen externalthings”followinghis Canaugmentedrealitytakeoff seasonalworkerinCornwallyears experimentswithnitrousoxide. whereVRhasfailed? ago–longhours,poororillegal Irecallamasteratschooltelling byTimBradshaw payrates,abusiveconditions– usaboutDavyandtheclerihew: Weliveinaworldoftoomany areencapsulatedbythememory SirHumphreyDavy people,toomuchcarbon.Techsuch ofthewaiterwhoregularly,with Abominatedgravy asvirtualrealitycanhelppeople unanimouskitchenstaffapproval, Helivedintheodium toexperiencethingsthatwould spatontherestaurantowner’s Ofhavingdiscoveredsodium otherwisenotbeaffordable,either eveningmealbeforeservingit. AlastairConan,Coulsdon forthemorfortheplanet. Idoubtmuchhaschanged. Sobringiton,thesesnapglasses RB,Cornwall Evenwhenyoudosucceed, soundcool! sometimesitpaystotryagain SecretLemonadeDrinker Thisisanimportantstory byTimHarford viaFT.com especiallyforallofus“foodie” TimHarford’spiecebroughtto touristsandchampionsofwork mindmusicproducerJimSteinman Saladcreamdays(May28/29) ofchefs. (ofBatOutofHellfame),whoafter byTimHayward @omviaTwitter asuccessfultakewouldsay,“That Iloveyou,TimHayward.Your wasperfect.Let’sdoitagain.” articlesareinformed,dogmatic, Thebestchairforworkmightnot JohnKelly,LittleRaveley fullofpeppyjoiedevivre. betheoneyouthink Myprawncocktail(coldwater byHarrietFitch-Little Thecheap,green,low-tech prawnsonly)hasbeentransformed Sittinginachairisalearnt solutionfortheworld’smegacities accordingtoyourstricturesbythe behaviourandthusprobably bySimonKuper useofhome-madesaladcream unnaturalforhumanbeings. Iagreethatcarspollute,generate madeusingasmallspringywhisk. Thisiswhyyoungerkidswilldo congestionandcauseaccidentsbut Bytheway,Iwasreliablytold TOCONTRIBUTE anythingbutsitinthemproperly. theyincreasepersonalmobility bythelocalpostmanthatMadame Soallchairschallengehuman enormously,whichleadsto Youcancommentonourarticlesonline Cradockcouldnotmakeadecent [email protected]. musculoskeletalbehavioural increasedprosperity.Thesolution cupoftea.Teagown?I’msureyou Pleaseincludeadaytimetelephone norms.Mindyou,sodoesspending isnottoabolishcarsorlorries,but wearitwell. numberandfulladdress(notfor 40+hoursaweekatadesk. tomakethemlesscontaminant publication).Lettersmaybeedited. YvonneBristow,Carnyorth DidyouknowFTWeekendhasapodcast?Weexploretoday’s sregoRynneK=sregoRhtuR+ynneKadnE culture,bigideas,nuancedquestionsandwhatitmeansto ziuqerutciP enaJytimalaC.01 liveagoodlife.Joinusforinspiringconversations,in-depth ainrofilaC,yellaVhtaeD.9 )buD-buD-a-(buR.8 ehcatraeH.7selbuorTehT.6aeSdeR.5enutroFnhoJ.4 storytelling,abitofescapismandalotoffun.Search sworrAdeR.3dniM.2noitseuQrelkniFehT.1 ‘FTWeekend’whereyoulisten,orft.com/ftweekendpodcast yuqolilos”ebottonroeboT“s’telmaHnisnuonsawknilehT srewsnaziuQ 6 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE11/122022 IInside:Wnhatpoliticscanlearnfrometlitefootballp14ellect UndercoverEconomist TIMHARFORD Intellectualvirtuestohelp sharpenyourthinkingskills Whatdoesitmeanto“learnhowtothink”?Isitamatterof learningsomeintellectualskillssuchasfluentreading,logicand clearexpression?Doesitrequirefamiliaritywithsomecanonical textsorhistoricalfacts?Perhapsit’sallaboutcorrectingcertain biasesthatcloudourjudgment? Irecentlyreadathought-provokingessaybythepsychologist BarrySchwartz,bestknownforhisbookTheParadoxofChoice. WritingafewyearsagoinTheChronicleofHigherEducation, Schwartzarguedthatoneofthegoalsofauniversityeducation, especiallyaliberalartseducation,istoteachstudentshowto think.Thetroubleis,saidSchwartz,“nobodyreallyknowswhat thatmeans”. Schwartzproposeshisownideas.Heislessinterestedincogni- tiveskillsthaninintellectualvirtues.“AllthetraitsIwilldiscuss haveafundamentalmoraldimension,”hesays,beforesetting outthecaseforninevirtues:loveoftruth;honestyaboutone’s ownfailings;fair-mindedness;humilityandawillingnesstoseek help;perseverance;courage;goodlistening;perspective-taking andempathy;and,finally,wisdom–thewordSchwartzusesto describenottakinganyoftheseothervirtuestoexcess. OneonlyhastoflipthelisttoseeSchwartz’spoint.Imagine apersonwhoishugelyknowledgeableandbrilliantlyrational, yetwhofallsshortonthesevirtues,beingindifferenttotruth, indenialabouttheirownerrors,prejudiced,arrogant,easily▶ FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE11/122022 ILLUSTRATIONBYGUILLEMCASASÚS 99 Intellect ◀discouraged,cowardly,dismissive,narcissisticandproneto NotesfromtheCuttingEdge everykindofexcess.Couldsuchapersonreallybedescribedas LEOLEWIS knowinghowtothink?Theywouldcertainlynotbethekindof personyou’dwanttoputinchargeofanything. Iregrettoinformyouthat “Mylistwasmeanttostarttheconversation,notendit,” thefamilygamesdebateis Schwartztoldme.SoIsenthislisttosomepeopleIrespect,both inandadjacenttoacademia,toseewhattheymadeofit.Thereac- stillastalemate tionwasmuchthesameasmine:almosteveryonelikedtheidea ofintellectualvirtues,andalmosteveryonehadtheirownideas aboutwhatwasmissing. TheCambridgestatisticianSirDavidSpiegelhalterraisedthe ideaofintellectualvariety,sinceworkingondisparateprojects wasoftenasourceofinsight.HetanShah,chiefexecutiveofthe Attheendofthismonth,house- Japan supplies have thus been BritishAcademy,suggestedthatthisvariety,andinparticularthe hold negotiations over buying a unusuallythinand,sincethestartof abilitytoseetheconnectionbetweendifferentpartsofasystem, PlayStation5willentertheir600th theyear,therehaveonlybeenthree wasthemostimportantintellectualvirtue.Healsoarguedfora dayofdeadlock.Arrivalatthismile- weekswhereSonysoldmorethan senseofhumour:ifwecan’tplaywithideas,evendangerousideas, stonemaywellbringallpartiesback 30,000unitshere.Inoneextraor- Dwearemissingsomething. tothetable,butabreakthroughstill dinaryweekinMay,Sonysoldonly feelsalongwayoff. 2,693PS5sinJapan–anindication, ameFrancesCairncrosshaschairedseveralnota- Part of the delay is that global sayanalysts,thatthesupplycrisis bleacademicinstitutions.Shesuggestedthatif economicforcesareplayinghavoc could actually be getting worse. oneacceptedthepremisethatintellectualvir- withstock,ofcourse.Butthisisby ThoseJapanesegamersdetermined tueswerealsomoralvirtues,agreateronewas nomeansourfirstversionofthe tosecureamachineareleftrelying “humanity…asympathyforthehumancondition argument.Aseachenchantinggen- onstorelotteries,luckorasecond- andarecognitionofhumanweakness”. eration of console (particularly ary market where “as new” used Shealsosuggestedthevirtueof“gettingstuffdone”,notingthe those of Sony and Nintendo) has PS5stradeat70percentabovethe linefromtheBookofCommonPrayer,“wehaveleftundonethose comealong,thequestionofthenew officialretailprice. thingswhichweoughttohavedone.”Trueenough.Whatwould machine’scost-to-justifiabilityratio This absurdity has killed the bethevalueofhavingalltheseintellectualvirtuesifwedidnot blazesaroundseveraltalkingpoints. debateinourhouse.Sinceitslaunch, exercisethem,andinsteadspentourdaysmunchingpopcornand Isitreallythatmuchbetterthan the PS5 has sailed through two watchingTV? theoneyou’vealreadygot?(Abso- Christmases and multiple Lewis TomChatfield,authorofHowToThink,mentionedpersua- lutely, yes, the existing model is familybirthdaysbothhotlydesired siveness.Whatisthepointofthinkingclearlyifyoucannothelp nowdecade-oldtechandjustlook anddefiantlyunpurchased. anyoneelsetodolikewise?Thisisfair,althoughpersuasiveness atgameX.)OK,butisitworth$500 ItmaybethatSonyhasaninterest isperhapstheintellectualvirtuethatmosttemptsusintothe whenthegamesalsocost$60?(Well, inkeepingitsJapansaleslow.Calcu- vicesofarrogance,partisanshipandanunbalancedtreatment yes.Seepreviousanswer.)Really? latedglobally,itmakeslittlemoney ofthefacts. Andyetyouwhinge on the hardware Almosteveryoneraisedtheomissionthatwasmuchonmy aboutthecostofthe sales of PS5 units – InoneweekinMay, mind:curiosity.CuriositywasnotonSchwartz’slist,exceptper- kids’trainers.(Yes, no problem, given Sonysoldonly2,693 hapsbyimplication.Butcuriosityisoneofthecentralintellectual but that’s totally thattherealmoney virtues.Curiosityimpliessomehumility,sinceitisanacknowl- different.) And so unitsinJapan–asign ismadeonthesoft- edgmentthatthereissomethingonedoesn’tyetunderstand. on. The support, thatthesupplycrisis ware.InJapan,says Curiosityimpliesopen-mindednessandaquesttoenlargeoneself. thistime,ofanaggy couldbegettingworse oneanalystwhohas Itisprotectiveagainstpartisanship.Ifwearecurious,manyother 12-year-old in my covered the com- intellectualproblemstakecareofthemselves.AsOrsonWellesput lobbying effort has panyfordecades,it itaboutthefilm-goingaudience:“Oncetheyareinterested,they beenuseful,thoughnotdecisive. isprobablymakingalossofabout understandanythingintheworld.” Butthecoredifferencebetween ¥2,000oneverymachinesold. Very good. Range, systemic thinking, humanity, humour, thisandpreviousiterationsofthe Pelham Smithers, another vet- gettingthingsdone,persuasiveness,curiosity.Otherplausible argumenthasbeenthePS5itself.In eran Sony-watcher, suspects the virtuesweresuggested,too;alas,thiscolumnistmustalsodisplay Japan,Sony’shometurf,itsgames spewofredinkcouldbeevenmore thevirtueofbrevity.Butoneofmycorrespondentshadasharply machinehasbeenverydifficultto severe,withmaterialcostsrisingsig- differentresponsetoSchwartz’semphasisonexplicitlymoral buyfromamainstreamretailer.Nor- nificantlyamidglobalinflationand intellectualvirtues–tellingly,theonemostactivelyinvolvedin mally,thereisaninitialpost-launch highenergyprices,andwiththeyen teaching.MarionTurner,professorofEnglishliteratureatOxford stampede and ensuing shortages plungedtoa20-yearlow.Thatcom- university,putitfrankly:“I’mnottrainedtoteachstudentshowto thatallformpartofthehype(and bination,saysSmithers,couldmean begoodpeople,andthat’snotmyjob.” fun). Within a year, though, the thatSonyislosingabout¥15,000 It’safairpoint.Itisverypleasanttomakealistofintellectual casualbuyercangenerallyfindone oneveryPS5itsellsinJapan.That virtues,butwhyshouldwebelievethatacademicscanteachstu- withouttoobruisingaquest. couldbeanincentiveforittoensure dentscourage,humilityoranyothervirtue?Yetifnotacademics, Not so with the latest PlaySta- thatstoresandonlineretailersare thenwho?Parents?Primaryschoolteachers?Newspapercolumn- tion.LaunchedinNovember2020, notfloodedwithmachines.Sony’s ists?Perhapsweshouldjusthopethatpeopleacquirethesevirtues despitethewell-knownheadwinds gamingchiefdidrecentlyannounce forthemselves?Iamreallynotsure. ofaglobalsemiconductorshortage, “asignificantramp-up”inPS5pro- BarrySchwartzisontosomething,thatisclear.Facts,logic, ithasbeenbuffetedbysupplychain ductionthisyear,butfornow,I’ll quantitativetoolsandanalyticalclarityareallverywell,butthe difficulties.Sony,whichhasareal havetomakedowithourPS4–itself artofthinkingwellrequiresvirtuesaswellasskills.Andifwe battleonitshandsagainstMicro- theresultofasuccessfulroundof don’tknowwhowillteachthosevirtues,orhowtoteachthem, soft’sXbox,hasbeenfunnellingits householdnegotiation. thatexplainsalotabouttheworldinwhichwenowlive. machines to particular markets, principallytheUS,whereitbelieves LeoLewisistheFT’sAsia TimHarford’slatestbookis“HowtoMaketheWorldAddUp” victorywillbedecided. businesseditor 10 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE11/122022

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