Fruitful: Four Seasons of Fresh Fruit Recipes

321 Pages·2008·28.53 MB·English

by  Nicholson

COOKING/ Seasonal F
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FRESH THE ORCHARD
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F ruitful is a trip to the local orchard, overfl owing with ripe, seasonal produce—and it’s not just desserts! From C
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sweet to savory, including fresh juices, every chapter is devoted to the produce of the moment: rhubarb, straw- O
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berries, apples, plums, apricots, peaches, quinces, pears, and more. This delectable cookbook showcases the S
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bounty from New York’s favorite orchard, illustrated with gorgeous full-color photography throughout—but all N

of the fruit can be found wherever you live. And twenty-fi ve recipes will come from fruit-loving chefs who count d
themselves among Red Jacket’s devoted customers: a few of the contributors include Dan Barber, Melissa Clark,
Karen DeMasco, and Jody Williams.
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Pies and cobblers are only the beginning of four seasons of recipes celebrating fruit: C
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STRAWBERRY-BLACK PEPPER GRANITA (cid:129) SPICY ROAST CHICKEN WITH RHUBARB CHUTNEY (cid:129) SCALLOP AND BLUEBERRY
CEVICHE (cid:129) GRILLED PEACH, SHRIMP, AND PROSCIUTTO SKEWERS (cid:129) RUSTIC APRICOT AND RASPBERRY CROSTADA
Whether it’s a bushel of peaches or a bundle of rhubarb, you’ll fi nd plenty to dish up here.
ISBN 978-0-7624-4565-3
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FRUITFUL
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Fruitful
FOUR SEASONS OF FRESH FRUIT RECIPES
BRIAN NICHOLSON SARAH HUCK
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THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO OUR FIRST AND
FOURTH GENERATIONS OF OUR RED JACKET FARMING FAMILY.
IN LOVING MEMORY OF EMILY NICHOLSON AND JOE NICHOLSON SR.
FOR LEADING US DOWN AN AGRARIAN PATH, WITH COMMITMENT
AND INTEGRITY—AND TO OUR CHILDREN
WHO FILL US WITH ENDLESS STRENGTH AND
HOPE FOR THE FUTURE.
Copyright © 2014 by Brian Nicholson and Sarah Huck
ISBN 978-0-7624- 4565-3
Photography © 2014 by Steve Legato except where noted
Library of Congress Control Number: 2013943524
Published by Running Press,
A Member of the Perseus Books Group E-book ISBN 978-0-7624- 5175-3
All rights reserved under the Pan-American and 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
International Copyright Conventions Digit on the right indicates the number of this printing
Printed in China Designed by Frances J. Soo Ping Chow
Edited by Kristen Green Wiewora
This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in any form or by
Food Stylist: Emma Feigenbaum
any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording,
Prop Stylist: Mariellen Melker
or by any information storage and retrieval system now known or
Typography: Abraham Lincoln, Centaur MT, Janda Stylish Script,
hereafter invented, without written permission from the publisher.
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TABLE CONTENTS
Acknowledgments . . . 6
Foreword . . . 8
Daniel Humm, Eleven Madison Park
Preface . . . 10
The Red Jacket Story from Joe Nicholson
Introduction . . . 13
A Word from Brian Nicholson
Spring and Early Summer . . . 15
Rhubarb and Spring Berries
High Summer . . . 85
Raspberries and Stone Fruits
Autumn . . . 163
Apples, Pears, Concord grapes, and Quince
Putting Up for Winter . . . 231
Index . . . 311
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Acknowledgments
I
WANT TO THANK THE MANY PEOPLE WHO CONTRIBUTED TO THIS BEAUTIFUL CULMINATION OF LIVING HISTORY
AND CULINARY ART. THE BOOK WOULD NOT HAVE HAPPENED WITHOUT AN IDEA HATCHED LONG AGO BY MY
CO-AUTHOR SARAH HUCK AND OUR FRIENDS RICH ROSSMASSLER AND JUSTONE BOSSERT, SO I THANK THE THREE
OF YOU IMMENSELY. SARAH, YOU BELIEVED IN, COAXED, STIRRED, AND CAJOLED MY FAMILY TO EXPRESS THE DEEP
LOVE OF OUR CRAFT. YOUR TALENT AND PASSION FULFILL THIS BOOK.
Sarah and I both extend a warm and heartfelt We would also like to thank all of the remarkable
thanks to the following: our superb agent, Jenni Fer- chefs, fellow farmers, and food professionals who gen-
rari-Adler for having faith in this project and patiently erously shared some of their favorite recipes, including
seeing it through the years; our editor, Kristen Green Dan Barber, Jeff and Adina Bialas, Daniel Boulud and
Wiewora and everyone at Running Press for your out- DBGB’s pastry chef Mymi Eberhardt, Melissa Clark,
standing professionalism and care in helping us craft Mary Cleaver, Karen DeMasco, Melissa and Emily
something so near to our hearts; talented book designer Elsen, Sara Kate Gillingham-Ryan, Rune and Giulietta
Frances Soo Ping Chow; photographer Steve Legato and Hilt, Molly Killeen, Agatha Kulaga and Erin Patinkin,
food stylist Emma Feigenbaum for bringing our fruit to Kari and Tyler Morris, Jessica Quon and Sabrina Valle,
life; recipe tester extraordinaire Arielle Cooper; Allon, Chris Ronis, June Russell, Sarah Sanneh, Adam Shep-
Daniella, Noa, and Amelia Azulai for their infi nite and ard, Francine Stephens and Andrew Feinberg, Andrew
steadfast wonderfulness. Tarlow and the Marlow & Sons pastry chef Ashley
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Whitmore, Julie Tarras Wallach, Bill Telepan, Molly brought our relationship with the city’s culinary scene
Wessel, and Jody Williams. We particularly express our to a new level. To my “better half since the egg split”
deep gratitude to Chef Daniel Humm, for your elo- twin brother, Mark, with your love of politics, plow,
quent and kind foreword. family, and now sales, taking every step with you keeps
Red Jacket would not be a success without the me sane and makes the whole thing that much more fun.
dedicated individuals who work here every day—grow- To my father, Joe, whose deep passion and endless
ing, packing, juicing, trucking, retailing and administer- pursuit of superior fl avors informs our every decision.
ing—to help us make the best-tasting product in the You took the raw potential of a small orchard and willed
world. Your tireless commitment is an everlasting inspi- it into a generational business that is our Red Jacket
ration: thank you! today. Your vision, contrarian nature, and absolute intol-
It’s essential to recognize my family. First, of erance of obstacles has lead us to a better place—and
course, Mom: you are the glue that keeps this whole thing created a wonderful ride for all involved.
together (you and your jam). You persevered in raising Finally, to my wife and kids, Kirstin, Emily, Colin,
a farm family, with humor and your patented “Irish and Anna: You inspire me daily as I watch the beauty
Ways”; because of that, we now have a fourth generation of life unfolding around me. Your patience and love
waiting in the wings. To my eldest brother JJ, with pas- empower this journey and fi ll me with pride.
sion in your heart and no fear, you led us to the streets And most importantly, to our many dedicated
of New York City and its Greenmarkets. Red Jacket customers, it’s not enough to say thank you. Without
Orchards would be very different without your love of your priorities taking shape for better food and a better
that space. To my sister, Amy May, of equal passion and planet, none of this is possible. As I like to say, “You
creativity, you labored in the New York City streets and keep eating, we’ll keep growing!”
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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Foreword
I
GREW UP IN A SMALL TOWN IN SWITZERLAND, A TOWN WHERE THE ONLY PLACE TO SHOP FOR PRODUCE, MEAT,
AND DAIRY WAS THE LOCAL FARMERS’ MARKET. I HAVE VIVID CHILDHOOD MEMORIES OF STROLLING THROUGH
THE MARKET WITH MY MOTHER ON ALMOST A DAILY BASIS. WE’D SELECT WHAT LOOKED BEST, ALWAYS CHATTING
WITH THE PURVEYORS, WHETHER IT WAS ABOUT THE TOWN GOSSIP OR NEW FRUIT THEY WERE GROWING, AND
THEN HAUL HOME OUR FINDS TO BE WASHED, PEELED, AND SHUCKED. THESE EARLY EXPERIENCES AT THE MARKET
TAUGHT ME A LOT. THEY TAUGHT ME ABOUT THE DELICIOUS INGREDIENTS AT MY FINGERTIPS AND THE COMMIT-
MENT THAT FARMERS HAVE TO THEIR PRODUCTS. THEY GREATLY INFLUENCED MY PHILOSOPHY AS A CHEF AND MY
APPROACH TO FOOD IN GENERAL. AND THOSE EARLY EXPERIENCES ARE WHAT LED ME INTO THIS PROFESSION IN THE
FIRST PLACE. WHEN I EVENTUALLY MOVED TO AMERICA I WAS WORRIED I WOULD LOSE SOME OF THIS CONNECTION
TO THE FOOD, TO THE FARMERS. I WAS CONCERNED THAT THIS CULTURE WOULDN’T EXIST.
But when I fi rst moved here my concerns were put in Switzerland. The Nicholsons were so proud of their
to rest. And once I came to New York City I found Red product, their land, and their farmers. They just wanted
Jacket Orchards at the Union Square Greenmarket and to tell you all the great stories from the orchards. And
fell in love. I could tell that it had a personal connection, there was such a clear respect for their craft, which led
both to the earth and to the customers coming to buy to really amazing products. At their stand you could
goods. It was great to see this and it reminded me so always overhear the sharing of recipes for seasonal pies
much of home and my early memories of the markets and jams and tips on how to tell when a fruit was ripe.
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Joe Nicholson, the second-generation owner, Over the years I’ve truly loved watching Red Jacket
has perfected so many fruits. The farms’ apricots, blossom. What started as a small farm stand has grown
peaches, and plums are delicious and inspirational. He’s into a remarkable business, and somehow Red Jacket
passed along decades of knowledge to his family and has managed to keep that vibe. It maintains that human
to his staff, and all while, the level of quality remains element, with face-to-face connections and real passion
unmatched. Their vast experience and quality product for produce. This cookbook is a true extension of the
have made Red Jacket Orchards a household name in business. It brings the same personal touch and dedi-
New York City, while paving the way for many other cation to quality into the home. And having a piece of
local farms and farmers with its unique sense of hos- Red Jacket Orchards permanently in my home gives me,
pitality at the market. And the Nicholsons have been as a client, a sense of ownership. It enhances the sense
building meaningful connections with their clients, of community that the Nicholson family has always
from the home cook to the restaurant chef, since they embodied since the day they bought those fi rst acres of
fi rst started their company. Everyone walking away from farmland, decades ago.
their stand does so with only the best products, always
at the peak of their seasonality and ripeness. They look by Daniel Humm
forward to coming back the following week to get their Chef/Owner,
hands on a new batch of delicious ingredients. Eleven Madison Park and The NoMad
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