Frommer's Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks

188 Pages·2004·2.216 MB·English

by  Barbara Laine, Don Laine

01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page i
Zion &
Bryce Canyon
National
Parks
4th Edition
by Don & Barbara Laine
Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price
ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page ii
Published by:
WILEYPUBLISHING,INC.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as per-
mitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright
Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or
authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the
Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923,
978/750-8400, fax [phone]. Requests to the Publisher for permis-
sion should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc.,
10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax
317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected].
Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trade-
marks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a
trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license.
All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley
Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in
this book.
ISBN 0-7645-4287-7
Editor: Liz Albertson
Production Editor: Donna Wright
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical
support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at
800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax [phone].
Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some con-
tent that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats.
Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page iii
Contents
List of Maps vi
1 Introducing Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks 1
1 Butch Cassidy Slept Here . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
The Best of Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks . . . . . . . . . . .4
2 A Look at Zion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
3 A Look at Bryce Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Planning Your Trip to Zion & Bryce Canyon
2 National Parks 18
1 Getting Started:Information & Reservations . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
2 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
A British Invasion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
3 What Should I Take? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Permits You Can Obtain in Advance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
4 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
5 Exploring the Parks by RV or “Car-Camping” . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Renting an RV for Your National Park Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
6 Package & Adventure Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
7 Tips for Travelers with Disabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
8 Tips for Travelers with Pets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
9 Tips for Travelers with Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
10 Protecting Your Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
11 Protecting the Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
3 Exploring Zion National Park 36
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Where to Find Restrooms in Zion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Fast Facts: Zion National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
2 Tips from a Park Ranger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
3 The Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Wildlife Viewing & Bird Watching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page iv
4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
5 Seeing the Park by Car & Shuttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
6 Historic & Man-Made Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
7 Ranger & Educational Programs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
8 Guided Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
9 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion
4 National Park 54
1 Day Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
2 Exploring the Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
The Narrows: Safety First . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
3 Biking & Mountain Biking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
4 Other Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
5 Where to Stay,Camp & Eat in Zion 75
1 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
3 Amenities for Each Campground, Zion National Park . . . . . . .84
Where to Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85
6 Exploring Bryce Canyon National Park 89
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
Fast Facts: Bryce Canyon National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92
2 Tips from a Park Ranger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93
Wildlife Viewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
3 The Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
Restrooms at Bryce Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
5 Seeing the Park by Car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
6 Seeing the Park by Shuttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
7 Historic & Man-Made Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
8 Ranger Programs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
9 Guided Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
10 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102
01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page v
Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Bryce
7 Canyon National Park 103
1 Day Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
Hoodoo Photography: The “Light” Stuff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
2 Exploring the Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
3 Other Summer Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
4 Winter Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
8 Where to Stay,Camp & Eat in Bryce Canyon 115
1 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115
2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
Amenities for Each Campground Near & In Bryce
Canyon National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
3 Where to Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
9 Nearby Things to See & Do 127
1 Gateway Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127
How’s This for Gun Control? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
2 Dixie National Forest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129
3 Cedar Breaks National Monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
4 Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument . . . . . . . . .135
5 Kodachrome Basin State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141
6 Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
7 Escalante State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144
Rock or Wood—What Is This Stuff? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
8 Snow Canyon State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
A Nature Guide to Zion & Bryce Canyon
10 National Parks 149
1 Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks Today . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
2 The Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
How Nature Paints the Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152
3 The Flora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153
4 The Fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
5 The Ecosystem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175
01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page vi
Index 174
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
List of Maps
Southwestern Utah 3 Bryce Canyon National Park
Southern Utah Driving Times 90
& Distances 27 Central Canyon 105
Zion National Park 38 Southern Canyon 107
Zion Canyon 56 Gateways to Zion & Bryce
Kolob Canyons Area 59 Canyon 117
Kolob Plateau Area 67 Grand Staircase–Escalante
National Monument 137
Gateways to Zion & Bryce
Canyon 77
01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page vii
ABOUTTHEAUTHORS
Residents of northern New Mexico for more than 30 years, Don and Bar-
bara Lainehave traveled extensively throughout the Rocky Mountains and
the Southwest. They are the authors of Frommer’s Colorado,Frommer’s Rocky
Mountain National Park, Frommer’s Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon
National Parks, and Frommer’s Utah; are the lead authors of Frommer’s
National Parks of the American West;and have contributed to Frommer’s Texas
and Frommer’s USA.The Laines have also written Little-Known Southwest
and New Mexico & Arizona State Parks(both for The Mountaineers Books).
ANINVITATIONTOTHEREADER
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,
restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us
about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in
upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d
love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks, 4th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
ANADDITIONALNOTE
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—
and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call
ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors,
and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while
traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page viii
FROMMER’SSTARRATINGS,ICONS& ABBREVIATIONS
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked
for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating
system.In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions
to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly.
Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are
rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars
(must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat
point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that
separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their
trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids—advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are
made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—some great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
FROMMERS.COM
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at
www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destina-
tions. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most
current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also
find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and
you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
•Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
•Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
•Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
•Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 1
1
Introducing Zion &
Bryce Canyon National Parks
T
here aren’t many places in the world where the forces of nature
have come together with such dramatic results as in Zion and Bryce
Canyon National Parks. From arid desert and desolate canyons to
pine-covered peaks and awe-inspiring rock formations, these two
parks—located about 85 miles apart in colorful southern Utah—
offer some of the American West’s most beautiful scenery, along
with almost unlimited opportunities for hiking, camping, and other
outdoor experiences.
Zion and Bryce Canyon sit on the vast, high Colorado Plateau.
They share this plateau with Utah’s three other national parks
(Arches, Canyonlands, and Capitol Reef), as well as with Grand
Canyon National Park in Arizona, Mesa Verde National Park in
Colorado, Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico,
a number of national monuments and state parks, the Hopi Indian
reservation, and the vast Navajo Nation, home of America’s largest
Indian tribe.
The Colorado Plateau developed millions of years ago when
forces deep within the earth forced the crust to rise, exposing many
strata of rocks. Over several million more years, the power of ero-
sion and weathering sculpted spectacular rock formations, colored
with an iron-rich palette of reds, oranges, pinks, and browns.
Both Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks are known for their
stunning rock formations—Zion for its massive sandstone mono-
liths, and Bryce for its more delicate limestone sculptures. But the
wondrous natural architecture isn’t the sole reason for visiting these
parks. You will also find shimmering pools of deep green water, a
sometimes-roaring river, forests of pine and fir, broad panoramic
views, a vast array of plants and animals, and even a bit of human
history, all of which are discussed in the following pages.
One thing that makes both parks so inviting is that they can be
experienced in a variety of ways. Adventurers can savor challenging
02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 2
2 CHAPTER 1 . INTRODUCING ZION & BRYCE CANYON
hiking trails and backcountry routes, while the curious can examine
millions of years of geologic history and have the chance to see rare
plants and animals. Meanwhile, those with an artistic bent can sim-
ply lose themselves in the beauty of the parks.
In searching for the essence of these natural worlds, you’ll find well-
developed and maintained trail systems, overlooks offering panoramic
vistas, interpretative displays, museum programs, and knowledgeable
park rangers ready to help you make the most of your visit. You can’t
possibly see everything there is to be seen here, and you shouldn’t try.
Zion and Bryce Canyon are not to be visited as if they were amuse-
ment parks, racing from ride to ride; these natural wonders are to be
savored, embraced, and explored, and the best way to do that is to
slow down. Take time to ponder the sunrise, sit quietly at the edge of
a meadow and wait for a deer to emerge from the woods, and even,
as the cliché goes, stop and smell the roses.
Bryce Amphitheater is enormous, filled with countless delightfully
shaped and colored formations and groups of formations, with telling
names such as Wall Street, Fairyland Canyon, and Queen’s Garden.
Meanwhile, the rugged stone monuments at Zion, such as the Watch-
man and the West Temple, are overpowering and tend to highlight
the insignificance of mankind in the total scheme of things. Among
America’s western parks, these are two of the easiest to explore—to
feel that you’ve gotten to know their very being. In large part, this is
because their extensive trail and road systems enable visitors to explore
these parks in fairly small, easily digestible bites, sampling one aspect,
letting it settle, and then moving along for another taste.
Bryce Canyon National Park is a bit more user-friendly than Zion,
while Zion offers a greater variety of features to explore, from river
canyons with colorful gardens to rocky windswept ridges. Bryce also
has several fairly easy trails that lead right into the middle of some of
its best scenery. This isn’t to say that Zion is hard to get into, but
because of the greater variety of terrain it takes a bit more time and
effort to achieve that same feeling that you knowthe park.
One interesting difference between the parks is that at Zion you
arrive at the bottom of the canyon, and in most cases look and hike
up toward the rock formations. At Bryce Canyon you arrive at the
top, along the rim, and look and then hike down into the amphithe-
aters. Foot-power is the best way to explore both parks, although
those without the physical ability or desire to hike find that there is
still quite a bit for them to see. Zion has the greater variety of hik-
ing trails—more than double the number at Bryce—as well as more