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Frommer's Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks (Park Guides) PDF

194 Pages·2008·21.378 MB·English
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01_184073 ffirs.qxp 1/25/08 12:05 AM Page i Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks 6th Edition by Eric Peterson Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine 01_184073 ffirs.qxp 1/25/08 12:05 AM Page ii Published by: WILEYPUBLISHING,INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2008 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as per- mitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza- tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750- 8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572- 4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trade- marks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trade- mark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publish- ing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-18407-3 Editor: Ian Skinnari Production Editor: Heather Wilcox Cartographer: Tim Lohnes Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some con- tent that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 02_184073 ftoc.qxp 1/25/08 12:06 AM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi Introduction to Yosemite and Sequoia & 1 Kings Canyon National Parks 1 1 History of the Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 2 The Parks Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 3 Best of Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Planning Your Trip to Yosemite and 2 Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks 15 1 Getting Started:Information & Reservations . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 2 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Special Events In Yosemite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Special Events In Sequoia & Kings Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 3 Passes & Permits You Can Get in Advance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 4 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 5 Learning & Adventure Vacations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 6 Tips for Travelers with Disabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 7 Tips for Travelers with Pets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 8 Tips for Travelers with Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 9 Protecting Your Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 10 Protecting the Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 3 Exploring Yosemite 26 1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Fast Facts: Yosemite National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 2 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 3 The Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 5 Seeing the Park by Car & Shuttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 6 Organized Tours & Ranger Programs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 02_184073 ftoc.qxp 1/25/08 12:06 AM Page iv 4 Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Yosemite 43 1 Day Hikes & Scenic Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 2 Exploring the Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Backpacking for Beginners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 3 Other Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 5 Where to Stay & Eat in Yosemite 64 1 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 3 Where to Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 6 Exploring Sequoia & Kings Canyon 92 1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 Fast Facts: Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks . . . . . . . .94 2 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 3 The Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 A Nearby National Monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 4 Go Inside the Earth in Two Caves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 5 How to See the Parks in 1 or 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 6 Seeing the Parks by Car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in 7 Sequoia & Kings Canyon 108 1 Day Hikes & Scenic Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 2 Other Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119 3 Exploring the Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Where to Stay & Eat in Sequoia & 8 Kings Canyon 125 1 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 3 Where to Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 02_184073 ftoc.qxp 1/25/08 12:06 AM Page v A Nature Guide to Yosemite and 9 Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks 141 1 The Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 The Life & Times of John Muir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 2 The Flora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 3 The Fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 4 The Ecosystem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166 Index 168 General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177 02_184073 ftoc.qxp 1/25/08 12:06 AM Page vi List of Maps Yosemite National Park 2 Backcountry Hikes in Yosemite 50 Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks 4 Giant Forest 97 Highway Access to the Grant Grove 99 Parks 21 Cedar Grove 100 Yosemite Valley 30 Hikes near Giant Forest 109 Tuolumne Meadows 33 Hikes near Grant Wawona 35 Grove 113 Mariposa Grove 37 Hiking Trails near Yosemite Valley 44 03_184073 flast.qxp 1/25/08 12:06 AM Page vii ABOUTTHEAUTHOR A Denver-based freelance writer, Eric Petersonhas contributed to numerous Frommer’s guides covering the American West, and has written Frommer’s Montana & Wyoming, Frommer’s Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks, and Ramble: A Field Guide to the U.S.A. (www.speckpress.com). Peterson also writes about travel and other topics for such publications as ColoradoBiz, Delta Sky, and the New York Daily News.In his free time, he’s an avid camper and hiker, a lifelong Broncos fan, and part-time rock star (at least in the eyes of his niece Olivia and nephews Mitch and Sam). ANINVITATIONTOTHEREADER In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcom- ing editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, 6th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 ANADDITIONALNOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. 03_184073 flast.qxp 1/25/08 12:06 AM Page viii FROMMER’SSTARRATINGS,ICONS& ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that sep- arate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard FROMMERS.COM Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our web- site at www.frommers.comfor additional travel information on more than 3,600 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include: •Online updates of our most popular guidebooks •Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways •Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends •Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions 04_184073 ch01.qxp 1/25/08 12:06 AM Page 1 1 Introduction to Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks C alifornia’s Sierra Nevada imposes rugged features on a state that many associate with sandy beaches and palm trees. It’s a mountain range of great beauty, hidden amid harsh wilderness, and nowhere is the terrain more dramatic than in Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks. These truly special places combine moun- tains with meadows, waterfalls with wildflowers, and spectacular geology with awe-inspiring vistas that span, in some cases, nearly the breadth of the state. Together, the parks cover 1.6 million acres (roughly 2,520 sq. miles). They host over four million visitors a year and are home to thousands of species of plants and animals. Yosemite attracts more tourists than Sequoia & Kings Canyon combined, although all three are absolutely delightful parks. Yosemite covers 1,169 square miles—roughly the size of Rhode Island—and 94% is designated wilderness. Here you can enjoy the quiet beauty of a forest or a pristine meadow, observe a sunset from a towering gran- ite cliff, hike a half-mile-high waterfall, enjoy a moonlit night that’s as bright as day, climb a world-famous rock, and eat a gourmet meal before falling asleep—be it under the stars or in the luxurious bed of a top-rated hotel. Yosemite Valley, which attracts 95% of all Yosemite tourists, is just 1% of the park by area, but contains a number of the region’s jaw- dropping features, and is visited by over three million people each year. It’s a place of record-setting statistics, too: The highest waterfall in North America and three of the tallest in the world (Upper Yosemite, Sentinel, and Ribbon falls), as well as the biggest and tallest piece of exposed granite (El Capitan), are here. Wawona, a small community annexed to the park in 1932, is a 45-minute drive south of Yosemite Valley. Mostly a hodgepodge of resort cabins and private homes, Wawona is also home to the stately Wawona Hotel, a 9-hole golf course, and a main attraction—the

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