Frommer's Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks

187 Pages·2004·2.249 MB·English

by  Don Laine, Barbara Laine, Eric Peterson

00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page i
Yosemite &
Sequoia/Kings
Canyon
National Parks
4th Edition
by Don & Barbara Laine & Eric Peterson
Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price
ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page ii
Published by:
WILEYPUBLISHING,INC.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as per-
mitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright
Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or
authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the
Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923,
978/750-8400, fax [phone]. Requests to the Publisher for permis-
sion should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc.,
10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax
317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected].
Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trade-
marks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a
trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license.
All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley
Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in
this book.
ISBN 0-7645-4286-9
Editor: Lesley King
Production Editor: Ian Skinnari
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Cartographer: John Decamillis
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical
support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at
800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax [phone].
Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some con-
tent that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats.
Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page iii
Contents
List of Maps vi
Introduction to Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings
1 Canyon National Parks 1
1 History of the Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
2 The Parks Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
3 The Best of Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon . . . . . . . . . . .11
Planning Your Trip to Yosemite &
2 Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks 15
1 Getting Started:Information & Reservations . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
2 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Special Events In Yosemite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Special Events In Sequoia/Kings Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
3 Passes & Permits You Can Get in Advance . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
4 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
5 Learning & Adventure Vacations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
6 Tips for Travelers with Disabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
7 Tips for Travelers with Pets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
8 Tips for Travelers with Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
9 Protecting Your Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
10 Protecting the Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
3 Exploring Yosemite 27
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Fast Facts: Yosemite National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
2 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
3 The Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
5 Seeing the Park by Car & Shuttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
6 Organized Tours & Ranger Programs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page iv
4 Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Yosemite 45
1 Day Hikes & Scenic Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
2 Exploring the Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
Backpacking for Beginners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59
3 Other Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
5 Where to Stay & Eat in Yosemite 65
1 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
Yosemite Campgrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
3 Where to Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83
6 Exploring Sequoia/Kings Canyon 92
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92
Fast Facts:Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks . . . . . . .94
2 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95
3 The Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102
A New National Monument Is Created . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
4 Go Inside the Earth in Two Caves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
5 How to See the Parks in 1 or 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105
6 Seeing the Parks by Car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106
Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in
7 Sequoia/Kings Canyon 108
1 Day Hikes & Scenic Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
2 Other Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119
3 Exploring the Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
8 Where to Stay & Eat in Sequoia/Kings Canyon 125
1 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
Sequoia/Kings Canyon Campgrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
3 Where to Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page v
A Nature Guide to Yosemite &
9 Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks 142
1 The Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
2 The Flora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
3 The Fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
4 The Ecosystem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166
Index 168
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178
Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page vi
List of Maps
Yosemite National Park 2 Hiking Trails Near
Sequoia & Kings Canyon Yosemite Valley 46
National Parks 4 Backcountry Hikes
Highway Access to in Yosemite 52
the Parks 21 Giant Forest 97
Yosemite Valley 32 Grant Grove 99
Tuolumne Meadows 35 Cedar Grove 100
Wawona 37 Hikes Near Giant Forest 109
Mariposa Grove 38 Hikes Near Grant Grove 113
00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page vii
ABOUTTHEAUTHORS
Residents of northern New Mexico since 1970, Donand Barbara Lainehave
written about and traveled extensively throughout the West and Southwest,
spending as much time as possible in the outdoors. They are the authors of
Frommer’s Utah, Frommer’s Colorado, Frommer’s Rocky Mountain National
Park, and Frommer’s Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks. They are the lead
authors of Frommer’s National Parks of the American West, and are contributors
toFrommer’s USA.
Eric Petersonis a Denver-based freelance writer who has authored Frommer’s
Montana & Wyomingand Frommer’s Yellowstone & the Grand Tetons National
Parks. He has contributed to Frommer’s National Parks of the American West
and Frommer’s Colorado. He also writes for several Colorado-based business
and entertainment periodicals, makes a mean chicken chili, and takes as many
weekend treks into the Rockies as possible.
ANINVITATIONTOTHEREADER
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,
restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us
about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in
upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d
love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon
National Parks, 4th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
ANADDITIONALNOTE
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—
and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call
ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors,
and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while
traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page viii
FROMMER’SSTARRATINGS,ICONS& ABBREVIATIONS
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked
for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating
system.In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions
to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly.
Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are
rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars
(must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat
point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that
separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their
trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
FROMMERS.COM
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.
frommers.comfor travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With
features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-
planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best
prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book
travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll
also find the following:
•Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
•Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
•Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
•Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
01 542869 Ch01.qxd 1/21/04 8:53 AM Page 1
1
Introduction to Yosemite
& Sequoia/Kings Canyon
National Parks
C
alifornia’s Sierra Nevada imposes rugged features on a state that
many associate with sandy beaches and palm trees. It’s a mountain
range of great beauty, hidden amid harsh wilderness, and nowhere
is the terrain more dramatic than in Yosemite and Sequoia/Kings
Canyon national parks. Both combine mountains with meadows,
waterfalls with wildflowers, and spectacular geology with awe-
inspiring vistas that span, in some cases, nearly the breadth of the
state. Together, these parks cover 1.6 million acres (roughly 2,520
sq. miles). They host approximately 6 million visitors a year and are
home to thousands of species of plants and animals.
For some reason, Yosemite attracts more tourists than
Sequoia/Kings Canyon, although all three are absolutely delightful
parks. Yosemite covers 1,169 square miles—roughly the size of
Rhode Island—and 94% is designated wilderness. Here you can
enjoy the quiet beauty of a forest or a pristine meadow, observe a
sunset from a towering granite cliff, hike a half-mile-high waterfall,
enjoy a moonlit night that’s as bright as day, climb a world famous
rock, and eat a gourmet meal, before falling asleep—be it under the
stars or in the luxurious bed of a top-rated hotel.
Yosemite Valley, which attracts 95% of all Yosemite tourists, is
just a sliver of the park, but it holds the bulk of the region’s jaw-
dropping features. An average of 4.1 million people visit here each
year. It is a place of record-setting statistics: the highest waterfall in
North America and three of the tallest in the world (Upper
Yosemite, Sentinel, and Ribbon falls); and the biggest and tallest
piece of exposed granite (El Capitan).
Wawona, a small community annexed to the park in 1932, is a
45-minute drive south of Yosemite Valley. Mostly a hodgepodge of
resort cabins and private homes, Wawona is also home to the stately
01 542869 Ch01.qxd 1/21/04 8:53 AM Page 2
Yosemite National Park
395 Campground High Sierra camp(By reservation only) Ranger Station .dRsekaLainigriV kaeLRyd.dnuLVirginiaMilkkleeLakeseeCrrLundyLundyLakeLake Inyo National Forest 120 TTiiooggaa PPaassssEntranceEntranceTTiiooggaaPassPass
TwinLakes liarNTHOOVEROtsYeNrWILDERNESSCAcCifiDcaLPEIFENLOBBYUNTASCNOYNNACKCRIRREKONHOYRNEATCTAAINMIGNNRIOOVYYNNAACCNSSORREEYGGNDDAOOCRRDLOONNFFOOTTYYHHNNEEAAOCCTTDDUUNNOOAALLRRCUUGGMMNNEERRIITTuuoolluuVVmmEEnneeRRRRGlen AulinGlen AuliniivveeHigh SieHrirga h CSaiemrpra Camprr LLEEMMBBEERRTTWhiteDOMEDOMEWolf TTuuoolluummnneeMeadowsMeadowsMay LakeVViissiittoorr CCeenntteerrTenayaLake YosemiteCreekliarTriuMYosemitenhoVillageJSOEHALFYMIETLETTVDOMEILALL8,836 ft.EY GLACIERPOINT7,214 ft. MariposaGrove
N
O
Y
N
ACNIAM .dRagoiT EMITEALLEY
KC OSV
5 miN5 km keerCyrrehC AJ CChheerrrryy Lake Lake LakeLakeLakeEleanorEleanorHetch HetchyEleanorReservoirYELLAVTrUevAiRNEePnOmOuPlouT MatherMMaatthheerr Camp Camp MatherMatherAASSPPEENNVALLEYVALLEY Big Oak-FlatEntrance Y Arch RockEntrance ElPortalChinquapin
0 0
2