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541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page i Washington, D.C. from $80 a Day 12th Edition by Elise Hartman Ford Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page ii About the Author Elise Hartman Fordhas been a freelance writer in the Washington, D.C., area since 1985. Her writing has appeared in theWashington Post;Washingtonianmaga- zine; the London-based Bradman’s North America Guide; The Essential Guide to Business Travel;Ladies’ Home Journal;and other national, regional, and trade publi- cations. In addition to this guide, she is the author of Frommer’s Washington, D.C.; Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Washington, D.C.;and Unique Meeting, Wedding, and Party Places in Greater Washington. Published by: Wiley Publishing,Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per- mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4128-5 Editor: Jennifer Moore Production Editor: Donna Wright Cartographer: John Decamillis Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Capitol Building, evening Back cover photo: White House For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Washington,D.C. 1 1 The Best of Washington,D.C.,on a Budget 3 1 Frommer’s Favorite Free & Site Seeing: The Best Affordable Washington Washington Websites . . . . . . . . .8 Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 3 Frommer’s Best Dining Bets 2 Frommer’s Best Budget on a Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 2 Planning an Affordable Trip to Washington,D.C. 12 1 The Washington from 6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .31 $80 a Day Premise . . . . . . . . . .12 7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 2 72 Money-Saving Tips . . . . . . . .13 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .33 3 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .21 9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .38 Destination: Washington, Frommers.com: The D.C.—Red Alert Checklist . . . . .22 Complete Travel Resource . . . . .40 4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . .40 5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 11 Getting Here . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Washington Calendar 12 Recommended Reading . . . . . . .51 of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 3 For International Visitors 53 1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . . .53 3 Getting Around the 2 Getting to the United States . . . .59 United States . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Fast Facts: For the International Traveler . . . . . . . . .61 4 Getting to Know Washington,D.C. 66 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .73 Fast Facts: Washington, D.C. . . .81 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 5 Accommodations You Can Afford 84 1 Capitol Hill/The Mall . . . . . . . . .85 6 Dupont Circle . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .87 7 Foggy Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 2 South of the Mall . . . . . . . . . . .90 8 Georgetown/Glover Park . . . . .106 3 Downtown,East of 9 Woodley Park & 16th Street NW . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 Points North . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 4 Downtown,16th Street 10 Suburban Maryland . . . . . . . . .109 NW & West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 11 Suburban Virginia . . . . . . . . . .111 5 Adams-Morgan/North 12 Long-Term Stays . . . . . . . . . . .111 Dupont Circle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 6 Great Deals on Dining 114 1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . .115 5 U Street Corridor . . . . . . . . . . .134 2 Capitol Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117 6 Adams-Morgan . . . . . . . . . . . .135 Dining at Sightseeing Great Places to Picnic . . . . . . .138 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 7 Dupont Circle . . . . . . . . . . . . .140 3 Downtown,East of 8 Foggy Bottom/West End . . . . . .146 16th Street NW . . . . . . . . . . . .120 9 Georgetown . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 Vegetarian Times . . . . . . . . . .128 10 Glover Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . .130 11 Woodley Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .156 4 Downtown,16th Street NW & West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131 7 Exploring Washington,D.C. 158 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .159 Museums of Special Interest . . .200 Call Ahead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 7 Other Attractions . . . . . . . . . . .204 1 The Three Houses of Walking Tour: Historic Government . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 Homes Near the White 2 The Major Memorials . . . . . . . .171 House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208 8 Just Across the Potomac: 3 The Smithsonian Museums . . . .178 Arlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213 Museum Exhibits Scheduled for 2004 . . . . . . . . .184 9 Parks & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . .215 4 Elsewhere on the Mall . . . . . . .190 10 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .219 5 Other Government Agencies . . .193 11 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .220 6 More Museums . . . . . . . . . . . .195 12 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .223 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page v CONTENTS v 8 Shopping 225 1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .225 3 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .227 2 Great Shopping Areas . . . . . . .226 Museum Shopping . . . . . . . . .242 9 Washington,D.C.,After Dark 244 1 Free & Almost-Free Late-Night Bites . . . . . . . . . . .262 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . .245 4 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . .264 2 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . .251 Cheap Eats: Happy Hours Washington Celebrates to Write Home About . . . . . . .266 Tennessee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254 Arlington Row . . . . . . . . . . . . .268 3 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .257 10 Side Trips from Washington,D.C. 271 1 Mount Vernon . . . . . . . . . . . . .271 Biking to Old Town 2 Alexandria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .274 Alexandria & Mount Vernon . . .279 Appendix A:Washington,D.C.,in Depth 287 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288 Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288 Appendix B:Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 296 Index 298 General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .298 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .306 Accommodations Index . . . . . .306 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page vi List of Maps Washington, D.C., Metropolitan Georgetown Dining 151 Area 43 Washington, D.C., Attractions 160 Washington, D.C., at a Glance 70 Capitol Hill 165 Major Metro Stops 76 The White House Area 169 Washington, D.C., The Mall 173 Accommodations 88 Walking Tour: Historic Homes Near Adams-Morgan, Dupont Circle & the White House 209 West End Accommodations 97 Washington, D.C., After Dark 246 Capitol Hill, Downtown & Foggy Old Town Alexandria 275 Bottom Dining 122 Adams-Morgan & Dupont Circle Dining 137 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page vii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Washington, D.C. from $80 a day, 12th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Washington, D.C. Frommer’s Washington, D.C. Frommer’s Portable Washington, D.C. The Unofficial Guide to Washington, D.C. 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page viii Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions 541285 WhatsNew.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page 1 What’s New in Washington, D.C. Washington, D.C., in the year subsidiary, Song (& 800/359-7664; 2004, continues to grapple with secu- www.flysong.com). Song started up rity issues as the city meanwhile carries service to Dulles Airport in late 2003, on as a busy business and tourist des- with flights to only a handful of cities, tination. You may encounter road including some in the northeast and blocks, concrete barriers, and police Florida. Check it out. officers directing you around town, as GETTING AROUND In mid-2003, well as metal detectors and more the Washington Metropolitan Area intense scrutiny at most sightseeing Transit Authority (WMATA) length- attractions. ened Metrorail’s hours of operation on You will also notice that the capital weekends, so that now Metro trains is a city under construction. This is a start running at 7am on Saturday and good thing, since it augurs prosperity, Sunday and stop running at 3am Satur- though it can be unsightly and some- day and Sunday. To fund this expanded times inconvenient. Major museums, service, WMATA increased base fares such as the Phillips Collection, are in (for the first time in 8 years) for bus and the midst of an expansion, and others, rail service by 10¢, to $1.20, with like the Corcoran Gallery of Art, are $3.60 the maximum you would pay for about to embark on a significant travel to the furthest destination. expansion. An underground visitors The District and federal govern- center is nearing completion at the ments, and downtown businesses are U.S. Capitol, and, by the time you discussing the creation of a “Circula- read this, the same may be underway tor” shuttle bus system, whose buses on the grounds of the Washington would run every 5 minutes along two Monument. Two large hotels are being east-west routes between Union Sta- built in neighborhoods, the waterfront tion and Georgetown and two north- and the Mount Vernon/Shaw area, south routes between the D.C. that only recently would have been Convention Center and the water- unlikely choices; these days, D.C. is front in southwest D.C. Similar in developing all over the place. service and purpose to the successful GETTING HERE If you are hoping Georgetown Shuttle, the Circulator is to book a flight to D.C. on a discount intended to ease the city’s congested airline, you probably know about streets while providing quick, easy, Southwest Airlines, which flies into and cheap (50¢ one-way) access to Baltimore-Washington International well-traveled spots around town. Pro- Airport, and you may know about the ponents of the system expect resi- relatively new, low-fare airline, JetBlue, dents, tourists, and federal workers to which flies into Washington-Dulles use the buses, which will supplement International Airport. But you may not Metro’s rail and bus transportation. If have heard of the latest discount air- approved, some Circulator buses will line on the scene: the Delta Airlines have started circulating in 2004.

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