Frommer's Vietnam, Including Angkor Wat

504 Pages·2006·5.8 MB·English

by  Charles Agar

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What’s New in Vietnam
I
n 2005, Vietnamese Prime Minister Vietnam and Cambodia were completely
Phan Van Khai met with U.S. President unaffected. The avian influenza, or “bird
George W. Bush in Washington, D.C., to flu,” is still a concern, but the disease is dif-
commemorate the 30th anniversary of ficult to contract and, since December
the end of hostilities between their 2003 there have been just 90 cases in Viet-
respective countries and to discuss the nam, resulting in 40 deaths, hardly a pan-
future. The last 10 years since these two demic (but do keep an eye on the Centers
countries reestablished diplomatic ties for Disease Control and Prevention web-
have seen major changes: the lifting of site, www.cdc.gov, for the most up-to-date
embargo, reconciliation over U.S. POWs, information). Vietnam’s paranoid authori-
diplomatic missions including a visit by tarian government may seem a burden, but
President Bill Clinton, U.S. war ships there are absolutely no fears about terror-
docking in Vietnamese ports, and an ism under the watchful eye of Big Brother.
increase in trade, investment, and cooper- In travel news, and thanks to a com-
ation. Despite a continued record of prehensive international airline treaty
human rights offenses, Vietnam is trudg- between the U.S. and Vietnam, you can
ing into the modern world with its head now connect with Vietnam directly from
held high. As an important Asian trading the United States (from the West Coast,
player, it currently awaits imminent entry anyway) on United (www.united.com)
to the World Trade Organization. flights. Great new options for touring
About a quarter of a million Americans include upscale boats on Ha Long Bay,
visited Vietnam in 2004, second only to and lots of cool new city hotels and bou-
Chinese visitors, and the country has tique resorts. Also check out the new
become a hot destination for travelers all boat connection between Can Tho or
over the world, whether in search of off- My Tho in the Mekong Delta and the
the-track adventures or the luxuries of old port area nearest Angkor Watwith Pan-
Indochina. Some of the most recent hap- daw Cruises (www.pandaw.com).
penings in Vietnam’s tourism include the The number of ATM machines in
following: Vietnam has increased significantly,
While safety is on the mind of every meaning greater convenience for the
traveler these days, and despite the public- international traveler.
relations disaster of the SARS crisis, avian
NORTH VIETNAM
influenza, and the recent tsunami in the
The biggest news in the capital city,
Indian Ocean, a well-informed traveler can
Hanoi, is the proliferation of affordable
enjoy a trouble-free trip with manageable
Chinese motorbikes. Streets, once lined
adventures in Vietnam. The Christmas
with quiet bicycle traffic, now roar with
tsunami of 2004 was on the westward-fac-
scooters and cars. But despite development,
ing part of Indochina, which means that
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2 WHAT’S NEW
busy Hanoi retains all of its charms: the outskirts of town. Opened in August
chaos of the busy Old Quarter, the 2005, the La Residence Hue (& 054/
meandering alleys of the French Quarter, 837-475; www.la-residence-hue.com) is
and tranquil Hoan Kiem Lake at the a chic, convenient address, with some
very heart of the city. Accommodations in 122 rooms overlooking the Perfume
the Vietnam capital are many, and the River from near the train station. The
new Sheraton Hanoi Hotel(&04/719- UNESCO heritage town of Hoi An has
9000; www.sheraton.com) is finally up seen a rise in tourists, and has some fine
and running after a prolonged stall high-end hotels and resorts to accommo-
caused by economic collapse in the late date them. The best addition near the
1990s. In the midrange, new “boutique town center is the tidy Life Resort
minihotels” have appeared on the scene, (&0510/914-555;www.life-resorts.com),
best exemplified by the Zephyr Hotel with a unique semiluxe campus a short
(&04/934-1256) and the Church Hotel walk from the old town proper.
(&04/928-8118). Cua Dai Beach—once a large area for
On the budget end, Hong Ngoc desperate hordes leaving the shores of
Hotels (& 04/826-7566) are an ever- Vietnam in search of a better future,
expanding local chain of tidy minihotels, many of whom met terrible fates at the
all with good locations in the heart of the hands of pirates—is now one of the
Old Quarter (there’s now a total of four hottest development sites in Vietnam. In
properties). Hanoi’s first International addition to the few good resorts there
Youth Hostel, called Hanoi Backpack- now (the Victoriaand the Hoi An Beach
ers’ Hostel, recently opened at 48 Ngo Resort, and the Hoi An Riverside
Huyen St. (north of Nha Tho, the city’s Resort on the road out to the beach),
Catholic cathedral) in the Old Quarter you’ll find a number of new choices: The
(& 04/828-5372), and other hostelling Golden Sand (& 0510/927-560; www.
sites are slated to open in 2005–2006 swiss-belhotel.com) is a luxurious campus
throughout Vietnam. with a large ocean-side pool and a good
New luxury options abound for popu- standard of rooms; and the Palm Garden
lar tours to picturesque Ha Long Bay, Resort (& 0510/927-927) is geared to
just 4 hours from Hanoi. The Emeraude the domestic market but offers great sea-
(www.emeraude-cruises.com), a copy of side villas. Also, keep an eye out for the
an early-20th-century French steamer, opening of the Nam Hai Resort (see
trolls the bay in style, and Buffalo Tours www.ghmhotels.com), a collection of
(www.buffalotours.com/jewel) runs over- ultraluxurious pool villas now under con-
night trips on their luxury Jewel of the struction on a more remote stretch of
Bay(the best of many similar junkets), as Cua Dai Beach.
do the folks at Handspan (www.handspan. Dining in Hoi Anis on fire, and the
com) with the Dragon’s Pearl. popular standbys of the Cargo Club and
Tam-Tam Café are always busy, but don’t
CENTRAL VIETNAM
miss Mr. Duc and his raucous storefront
The hotel scene in the colonial capital of
fusion bistro, the Mango Rooms (on
Hue,once rather grim, gets a good goose
Nguyen Thai Hoc next to Cargo Club
from the new high-end rooms at the old and across from Tam-Tam; &0510/910-
Hotel Saigon Morin (& 054/823-526;
839), for a bit of California-inspired
www.morinhotel.com.vn), the first inter-
Vietnamese cuisine, heavy on delicious
national standard in town, as well as the
grilled items. Also try little Bale Well
new Pilgrimage Village (& 054/885- (& 0510/864-443) for authentic local
461; www.pilgrimagevillage.com) on the
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WHAT’S NEW 3
food. Take a cooking class at Nhu Y Resort (& 062/847-542; www.sinhcafe
(The Mermaid), Cargo Club, or Hai’s vn.com).
Scout Café.
SOUTH VIETNAM
In coastal Nha Trang, Vietnam’s
In busy Ho Chi Minh City, you can’t
Ocean City, the finest resort is still the
Ana Mandara (& 058/829-829), but miss the city’s latest addition: The 23-
floor Sheraton Saigon(&08/827-2828;
the same developers, Six Senses, have just
www.sheraton.com/saigon) is a top busi-
finished Evason Hideaway Ana Mandara
(& 058/728-222; www.sixsenses.com), a ness standard looming over longtime
favorite the Caravelle(&08/823-4999;
superluxe resort of pool villas reachable
www.caravellehotel.com). And the Park
only by boat. New Sofitel VinPearl
Resort (& 058/598-188; www.vinpearl Hyatt Saigon (2 Lam Son Square, Dis-
trict 1 & 08/824-1234; fax: 08/823-
resort.com) is notable for its size (over
7569; www.hyatt.com) recently opened
500 rooms) and unique location on an
in the heart of District One, just behind
island just offshore (reached only by
the old Opera House in Lam Son Square.
boat). In town the new Sunrise Beach
Resort (& 058/920-999; www.sunrise Some 259 luxury rooms start at US$160.
Dining choices are many in the big
nhatrang.com) brings high-end luxury to
city, and it’s sad to report that Kentucky
the main Nha Trang strip. New miniho-
Fried Chicken has its talons set on the
tels abound.
land of the ascending dragon. There are
Dalat is an escape from the lowland
two outlets in Ho Chi Minh City—one
heat if traveling along the coast, already
just east of central Lam Son Square and
host to the likes of the fine Sofitel Dalat
another adjacent to the large Hyatt hotel.
Palace and comfortable Novotel. It will
Where the “Quiet American” once sipped
soon also host a new property sponsored
tea and looked out over the square, he
by Ana Mandara (see the section on Nha
now might risk high cholesterol eating
Trang, above) and set it in a revamped
processed chicken served in a bucket.
colonial home. Rural Route 14 is the
For authentic Vietnamese, the best in
now-paved length of what was once the
the country, try Ngon Restaurant (&08/
Ho Chi Minh Trail and runs the length of
829-9449), near the Reunification Palace
the Annamese Cordillera, through the
(they also have two new outlets in town).
heart of the Central Highlands in towns
Also try Skewers (& 08/822-4798),
like Buon Ma Thuot, Pleiku, and Kon-
with fine Mediterranean and barbecue
tum, all the way up to the central coast at
served from their new location. The new
Danang and Hue. Take a ride with an
Sheraton Hotel’sTop of 23(&08/827-
Easy Rider (p. 264) motorcycle guide or
2828) is a cool new live music venue, and
hire a jeep for exploring this rugged region.
Saxn’art (&08/822-8472;www.saxnart.
Phan Thiet,a beachside resort close to
com.) is a great place to hear some real
Ho Chi Minh, is crowded with good
jazz, Vietnam-style.
accommodations, but newest to the scene
is the Pandanus Beach Resort(&062/ Con Dao Island lies just off the coast
of Vung Tao near Ho Chi Minh, and was
849-849;www.pandanusresort.com) in a
once the colonial prison island. Con Dao
newly developed area near the Red Dunes
has but a few midrange accommodations,
(quite far from town). Also noteworthy is
but more and more tourists are making
the latest venture by Sinh Café (www.sinh
the jump out to this remote rock.
cafevn.com)—one of Vietnam’s conven-
Take a tour on the Mekong Delta
ient budget travel agents—a low-end resort
with any operator based in Saigon, and be
popular with backpackers called Mui Ne
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4 WHAT’S NEW
sure to book at the luxurious Victoria Many travelers make the Mekong
properties in Can Tho and Chau Doc Delta their last port of call and carry on
(www.victoriahotels-asia.com). Phu Quoc overland to Cambodia. Unique are the
Island,just off the coast of the delta town new cruises with Pandaw Cruises (www.
of Rach Gia, is accessible from Saigon by pandaw.com), with boats leaving from
daily flights, and is a fun, burgeoning Saigon or Can Tho for weeklong adven-
tour destination; get there before the big ture trips as far as Angkor Wat. For infor-
package tours and crowds of regional vis- mation about the many options for
itors. The best going, for now, is the high-end accommodations, fine dining,
Saigon Phu Quoc Resort (&077/846- and touring Cambodia and the temples
999; www.sgphuquocresort.com.vn), but of Angkor Wat,see chapter 13.
plans are underway (also road cuts) for a
number of new, high-end hotels and
resorts.
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1
The Best of Vietnam
V
ietnam offers adventures and curiosities around every corner. Be ready for a wild
ride in a colorful and chaotic land—along the way, you’ll discover tranquil places and
opportunities to connect with local people. Below are the best Vietnam has to offer,
from fine dining to off-the-beaten-track oddities.
1 The Best Vietnam Experiences
•Eat on the Street:“Real” Vietnamese minorities. Ethnic hilltribe people
food is best at street side or in small still practice their own brands of ani-
market areas, and, though it might be mistic religion and wear colorful tra-
a little grungy or off-putting to some, ditional clothing. Travelers among
dining alfresco in old Indochina them in places like Sapa and Bac Ha
offers the most authentic and deli- in the far north, or near Buon Ma
cious meals. Prepare yourself for Thuot or Kontum in the Central
some adventurous dining, or in Ho Highlands, can even experience a
Chi Minh City, try Ngon Restaurant “homestay” in some villages through
(p. 348) for a safe overview of Viet- certain ecotours and trekking compa-
namese fare. See “Where to Dine” nies. See chapters 5 and 9.
sections in following chapters. •See the Water Puppets of Hanoi:
•Get Lost in the Markets: In Viet- Okay, this is one for the tour buses,
nam the market—spelled Cho and but the Thang Long Water Puppet
pronounced like the beginning of the Theater (p. 147) in Hanoi is magical.
word “could”—is the epicenter of Intricate puppets emerge from the
culture and commerce. The best mar- surface of a small watery stage as if by
ket for tourists is Ben Thanh Market magic, telling tales of old Vietnam.
(p. 351) in Saigon, which caters to Don’t miss it.
foreign visitors with low-cost T-shirts, •Take a Wild Ride:Whether through
souvenirs, and local treats, but every Hanoi’s narrow alleyways and maze-
town has a market: Dalat’s market, like neighborhoods or on the broad
with its delicious strawberry pre- boulevards of busy Ho Chi Minh, the
serves; Hoi An’s busy riverside fish traffic in Vietnam is a trip. Darwin-
market and wholesale silk market; ian road rules mean that any ride by
Hanoi’s sprawling Dong Xuan Mar- motorcycle, car, or bus is a test of
ket (p. 146); and the hilltribe markets faith, as drivers swerve and angle
of Sapa and Bac Ha in the far north. through some of the world’s craziest
•Visit Hilltribe Groups: Vietnam’s traffic. In Vietnam, “getting there” is
remote mountain regions, the Cen- an adventure in itself. See “Getting
tral Highlands and the far north, are There” sections in following chapters
home to a patchwork of ethnic for more information.
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6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIETNAM
•Celebrate the Tet Holiday: This year, the greatest gift you could get is
Lunar New Year celebration (p. 22) an invite to a family’s Tet celebration.
in early February is the most impor- Bring a little something to eat as a
tant event on the calendar. Should contribution, and enjoy some of the
you be in Vietnam at this time of most unique hospitality in the world.
2 The Best Sites (According to UNESCO)
•Halong Bay: Just a short few hours Japanese tradesmen made and sold
from Hanoi, the bay at Halong, with their designer wares. Many shops are
its craggy limestone towers dotting still operational wood, stone, and
the wide open bay all the way to the ceramic workshops, but now among
horizon, has long inspired Viet- them are fine-dining outlets, funky
namese poets and philosophers. A little hotels (as well as new resorts on
ride on the bay these days is a rather the outlying beach area of Cua Dai),
busy, crowded affair, but some luxury and lots of bespoke tailors. Shoppers
tours and a few ecotour operators can swoon. See chapter 8.
take you to the back of beyond, •My Son Sanctuary:The Cham peo-
exploring little-known caves by ple, an Indonesian group who arrived
kayak. See chapter 4. by ship from the Malay Peninsula, held
•Phong Nha—Ke Bang National sway over most of central Vietnam and
Park: These massive caves (more or built arching hilltop towers. My Son is
less an off-the-track site popular with the finest example.See chapter 8.
backpackers) are about halfway •Hue Monuments: The Nguyen
between Hue and Vinh. You have to Kings—the last and perhaps the most
arrange your own transport or go glorious (or grandiose) of Vietnam’s
with a tour. See chapter 7. dynastic rulers—built grand monu-
•Hoi An: Tourism has exploded on ments to themselves in and around
the ancient streets of Hoi An. A hub the massive Hue Citadel. Hue’s
of international craft and commerce sights, particularly the elaborate
since the 14th century, this is where kings’ tombs, make for a very inter-
Vietnamese, Chinese, and even esting visit. See chapter 8.
3 The Best Temples & Archaeological Sites
•The Cao Dai Holy See: The spiri- •The Tunnels of Vinh Moc and Cu
tual home base of the Cao Dai reli- Chi:Faced with devastating air raids,
gion, a unique contemporary faith, both of these sites supported large
the Holy See (p. 236) is a fantasyland groups of soldiers and civilians who
of colored mosaics and elaborate used the tunnels as supply lines,
painting. Followers are dressed in escape routes, and as bases for waging
white turbans during the picturesque a devastating guerilla campaign
daily procession. against U.S. forces. Day trips to
•Tomb of Khai Dinh:The egotistical, either site are memorable. See p. 227
eccentric emperor Khai Dinh left and p. 358.
behind a tomb that is a gaudy mix of •Hoa Lo Prison (aka Hanoi Hilton):
Gothic, baroque, and classical Chi- Home to U.S. pilots—including
nese architecture. Quite unique. See John McCain—who were shot down
p. 222. during the Vietnamese war with the
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THE BEST OF THE OUTDOORS 7
U.S., Hoa Lo Prison (p. 134) is now •Reunification Palace:In 1975 tanks
a small museum (most of it was rolled over the gates of the prime
demolished for a high-rise). A good minister’s palace, signaling an end to
glimpse into Vietnam’s grisly past. the Vietnam War. You can see the
actual tanks on-site. See p. 353.
4 The Best Museums
•War RemnantsMuseum:Formerly world. Many of the 300-plus Hindu-
called the Museum of American inspired carvings are captivating. See
War Crimes, this ever-evolving col- p. 236.
lection is the face of Vietnam’s war •Vietnam National Museum of Fine
past. Exhibits are insightful and cer- Arts: This large colonial structure
tainly rife with rhetoric, but a houses a fine collection of new works,
unique glimpse at propaganda from historical lacquer and silk paintings,
“the other side,” and a yin to the woodblocks, and folk and expressive
heavy yang of Western reporting works in oil. See p. 132.
and documentation of the war •Ho Chi Minh Museum (in Hanoi):
years. A unique perspective and a Like the War Remnants Museum, the
must-see in Ho Chi Minh City. See Ho Chi Minh Museum is a battle-
p. 355. ground of ideology. Located adjacent
•The Cham Museum: This open-air to his very tomb, the museum tells the
colonial structure houses the largest tale of the evolutionary from cradle to
collection of Cham sculpture in the grave, the best of the country’s many
(every town has one). See p. 132.
5 The Best Beaches
•Nha Trang:Vietnam’s Ocean City is Nick Faldo, the seafood is good, and
very crowded in the summertime there are some great day trips to
with domestic tourists, but it’s a great remote sand dunes and smaller fish-
escape. The city has a few worthy ing villages. See p. 314.
sights—otherwise a cluttered market •Phu Quoc Island:Phu Quoc boasts
town—but there are some great new vast tracts of interior forestland and
resorts and the best seafood going. far-flung beaches great for exploring
See p. 296. by motorbike. For now there’s just a
•Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet: Just a small clutch of mid- to low-end
few hours from Saigon, Phan Thiet is resorts, but the times they are a-
the latest getaway for Saigon expats. changin’ and development is on the
There’s a golf course designed by way. Get here fast. See p. 390.
6 The Best of the Outdoors
•Kayaking in Halong Bay: Often in overhead and crawl with monkeys,
conjunction with luxury cruises, snakes, and rare animals. Kayaks are
kayaking in Halong Bay means going the only way to get up close. See
through low caves at low tide to get to chapter 4.
the collapsed center of huge limestone •Multisports in the Central High-
and volcanic rings, where walls of jun- lands: Opportunities abound for
gle vegetation tower hundreds of feet trekking, climbing, and mountain
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8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIETNAM
biking. Just contact one of the many hearty, but the views afforded and the
small outfitters in Dalat (all are a experience itself is amazing. There are
copy of Phat Tire, a Vietnam pio- lots of outfitters in the popular
neer). See chapter 9. tourist town of Sapa, and you can
•Cycling the Mekong Delta: The arrange any number of treks to ethnic
best part about cycling in Vietnam is hilltribe villages, even overnights and
that, with some exceptions, the homestays. See chapter 5.
routes are quite flat. Adventure-tour •Sail or Kite-Surf on the South
outfitters out of both Ho Chi Minh China Sea: Opportunities for water-
City (p. 326) and Hanoi (p. 88) can sports and sailing are many as you
make any arrangements for a tour of travel along Vietnam’s coast. Most
any length, even providing a support resorts have boats for rent, and Nha
van, and going by bike gives you a Trang is a good bet, as is the area off
close-up view of it all. See chapter 12. Mui Ne Beach near Phan Thiet, which
•The Central Highlands or the Far is becoming a very popular wind- and
North by Motorbike: The rural kite-surfing spot. See chapter 10.
roads of Vietnam beg to be explored, •Cuc Phuong National Park:A great
and going by motorbike, though little overnight from Hanoi for
dangerous, is a great way to do it. nature lovers, Cuc Phuong (p. 152)
From Dalat in the Central High- hosts a unique primate-research cen-
lands, arrange a ride with an Easy ter, has good basic accommodations,
Rider (p. 264), motorcycle guides and offers lots of hiking trails. Good
who can take you up the Ho Chi guides are on hand to assist or hire for
Minh Trail (now a highway) and as the day.
far as Danang and Hoi An. In the far •Cat Tien National Park: Bird-
north, the Russian Minsk motorbike watcher heaven, little Cat Tien is
is the workhorse of the hills, and you halfway between Saigon and Dalat
can rent your own bike or go with a and an overnight stay includes night
guide out of Hanoi and visit some spotting, rustic accommodations,
incredible terrain. See chapter 9. and a morning hike. The place is
•Taking On Fansipan or Trekking crawling with jungle animals, birds,
the Far North:The very top of Viet- and lots of naturalists and ornitholo-
nam, Mount Fansipan (p. 154) is a gists chasing after them with binocu-
multiday adventure and only for the lars. See p. 378.
7 The Best Luxury Accommodations
•Caravelle (& 08/823-4999; www. the top of the business and high-end
caravellehotel.com): The best loca- tour market in the city. Great dining
tion and the best standard right at the choices and excellent amenities. See
vortex of Ho Chi Minh, on Dong p. 334.
Khoi at Lam Son Square. The town’s •Sheraton Saigon (& 08/827-2828;
top business address. See p. 332. www.sheraton.com/saigon): New and
•New World Hotel(&08/822-8888; chic, the Sheraton pits itself against
www.newworldvietnam.com): The the likes of the Caravelle and New
first and still the largest, the New World for the title of Saigon’s top
World Hotel stacks up with the likes dog. It’s quite a race, and the Shera-
of Caravelle and Sheraton, and with ton is the newest and most glitzy. See
recent upgrades, it stands stalwart at p. 335.
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THE BEST MIDRANGE ACCOMMODATIONS 9
•Sofitel Dalat Palace(&063/825-444; the beach, a spectacular central pool,
www.accorhotels.com/asia): There’s and even its own in-house elephant
nothing like it anywhere really, this who gives basket rides along the
converted palace of the last emperor beach. See p. 245.
of Vietnam, Bao Dai. Giant rooms •Ana Mandara Resort (& 058/829-
are done in a cool retro-style with 829; www.sixsenses.com): By far the
fireplaces and diva beds, claw-foot best beachside resort going in Viet-
tubs, and great original artworks. nam: a high standard of style, com-
Great fine dining and a high standard fort, and very warm and genuine
of service are offered. One of those service. See p. 299.
special finds in the world. See p. 266. •Evason Hideaway Resort (& 058/
•Hanoi Daewoo (& 04/831-5000; 728-222; www.sixsenses.com): This
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com): For is the Ana Mandara done to perfec-
acreage alone, the Daewoo tips the tion but set on a far-flung beach with
scales, a behemoth of luxury and style the country’s most high-end pool vil-
if far from the city center. See p. 98. las. Raises the bar. See p. 300.
•Sofitel Metropole Hanoi (& 04/ •Furama Resort (& 0511/847-333;
826-6919; [email protected]): www.furamavietnam.com): One of
The best hotel in Vietnam for luxury, the most “kid-friendly” resorts in
service, style, and a connection to the Vietnam, this place has lots of out-
history of Hanoi. See p. 102. door activities and watersports, as well
•Victoria Hoi An Resort (& 0510/ as luxury spa facilities. See p. 234.
927-041; www.victoriahotels-asia.
com): This place has great views of
8 The Best Midrange Accommodations
•Victoria Sapa(&020/871-522): In for renovated budget minihotels, the
the hills above Sapa, this one’s the best “boutique mini.” And the location is
in town. Arrive by the hotel’s luxury great, right on Church Street. See
train, and enjoy a ski-lodge kind of p. 105.
ease and hospitality. See p. 161. •Bong Sen Hotel Annex (&08/823-
•Victoria Chau Doc and Can Tho: 5818): Basic, affordable, and in the
These two riverside classics are worth heart of downtown, a good bet in
the trip. Chau Doc is a renovated old Saigon. See p. 338.
administration building, and Can Tho •Coco Beach Resort(&62/847-111):
is a new but retrofitted grande dame. The first, and still the best, on the
Take great day trips and enjoy slow, long stretch of white-sand Mui Ne
riverside living. See p. 389 and p. 386. Beach. Rustic but comfortable wooden
•Zephyr Hotel (& 04/934-1256): A bungalows on stilts overlook the sea
very cozy new hotel in the center of from a peaceful garden area. Great
Hanoi, just south of Hoan Kiem, dining, too. See p. 316.
with a compact set-up but a high •Life Resort Hoi An and Quy Nhon:
standard. An affordable boutique Whether at the more isolated beachside
downtown. See p. 104. resort in Quy Nhon or at the fine, in-
•Church Hotel (& 04/928-8118): town resort in Hoi An (the very closest
On the low end of this category, the resort to town), Life Resort is a fine new
new Church Hotel sets a new standard standard. See p. 239 and p. 291.
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10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIETNAM
9 The Best Dining
•Emperor(&04/826-8801): Set in a unique dish of white fish flash-fried
luxurious, candlelit courtyard of an in lots of peanut oil with dill and
old-style timber-frame home, Emperor turmeric. See p. 112.
sets the standard for Vietnamese fine •Mango Rooms(&0510/910-839):
dining. See p. 111. The atmosphere is fast and furious as
•Vine (& 04/719-8001): This chic hip young owner Duc slings a unique
little bistro north of central Hanoi brand of Asian-fusion fare, heavy on
(on West Lake) is a find. The atmos- grilled items and delicious light
phere is hip San Francisco–style, and ingredients. See p. 248.
the food is a cunning assortment of •Le Rabelais(&063/825-444): Fine
the familiar, from good pizzas to great French cuisine served with real
fusion. See p. 114. panache at one of Vietnam’s most
•Restaurant Bobby Chin (& 04/ luxurious rural hotels. See p. 269.
934-8577): Atmosphere and loca- •Ngon Restaurant(&08/829-9449):
tion—like a performance-art space Its popularity has spawned a number
on the south end of central Hoan of small offshoots, including a spe-
Kiem Lake—Bobby’s is the place to cialty restaurant focused on northern
see and be seen in Hanoi. See p. 117. rice dishes and another new outlet for
•Cha Ca La Vong(&04/825-3929): buffet dinners, but the original
A Vietnamese institution and a restaurant near the Reunification
tourist right of passage, really. A meal Palace is the best. A virtual survey
here is a memorable, do-it-yourself course of authentic Vietnamese cui-
affair on the beat-up second floor of a sine from every region of the country,
restaurant as old as the hills (and it this restaurant is the town’s most
looks like it has neverbeen painted). atmospheric, friendly, and busy. See
The food does all the talking: a p. 348.
10 The Best Shopping
•Ben Thanh Market: Ben Thanh •Dong Khoi Street: Once the cultural
(p. 351) is a city landmark and a great heart of colonial Cochin China, and
place to pick up cheap, ready-made later the busy R&R street of war-
clothing, souvenirs, and an authentic weary U.S. troops, Dong Khoi is still
Vietnamese lunch. the cultural pulse of urban Vietnam
•Hoi An:This is Vietnam’s shopping but now pays homage to style. Trendy
mecca. Get clothes made to order for boutiques, chic cafes, and fine dining
peanuts—some travelers even bring line the busy road.See p. 321.
their own patterns—or browse gal- •Hoan Kiem Area: Throw a rock and
leries and chic little boutiques. The chances are you’ll hit a gallery or shop
town is an ancient mercantile center, in the busy city center of Hanoi.
and community collectives still prac- Shopping is chockablock and prices
tice wood and stone carving. See are as good as you can haggle them
p. 237. down to. See p. 134.