Frommer's Toronto

282 Pages·2003·2.809 MB·English

by  Hilary Davidson

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Toronto
2004
by Hilary Davidson
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Comprehensive and includes information about the many festivals—from beer
to literature—that Toronto hosts each year.”
—The Washington Post
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About the Author
Toronto native Hilary Davidsonnow calls New York City home, thanks to her per-
suasive Manhattan-born husband, Daniel. She is a contributing editor at Chatelaine
magazine and writes for Martha Stewart Weddings, Executive Traveler, Wedding Bells,
Glow, Discover, and Pages.She is also a contributor to Frommer’s Canada.She can
be reached at [email protected].
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any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-4060-2
ISSN 1047-7853
Editor: Myka Carroll
Production Editor: Bethany André
Cartographer: John Decamillis
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: A view of Toronto’s skyline and harbor
Back cover photo: Hockey Hall of Fame statue
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5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Toronto 1
1 The Best of Toronto 3
1 Frommer’s Favorite Toronto 3 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 The Best of Toronto Online . . . . .9
2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
2 Planning Your Trip to Toronto 12
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .12 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .25
2 Entry Requirements & Wedded Bliss for Gay &
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Lesbian Couples . . . . . . . . . . . .27
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .28
The Canadian Dollar, the U.S. Dollar 9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .30
& the British Pound . . . . . . . . .15 Frommers.com: The Complete
What Things Cost in Toronto . . .17 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .30
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .32
Toronto Calendar of Events . . . .18 10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Jump Up! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 11 Packages for the Independent
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
6 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 12 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .38
The SARS Story . . . . . . . . . . . .25 13 Recommended Reading . . . . . .39
3 Getting to Know Toronto 40
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Underground Toronto . . . . . . . .44 Fast Facts: Toronto . . . . . . . . . .50
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .44
4 Where to Stay 54
1 Downtown West . . . . . . . . . . .55 4 Uptown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
2 Downtown East . . . . . . . . . . . .65 5 The East End . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .66 6 At the Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
3 Midtown West . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
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iv CONTENTS
5 Where to Dine 75
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . .80 5 The East End . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
2 Downtown West . . . . . . . . . . .84 Sleepless in Toronto: What to Do
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . .93 When the Midnight Munchies
Attack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
3 Downtown East . . . . . . . . . . . .96
6 Uptown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Savory Surfing . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
Vegetarian Delights . . . . . . . .114
4 Midtown West . . . . . . . . . . . .100
7 North of the City . . . . . . . . . .115
Great Greasy Spoons . . . . . . .107
6 What to See & Do 117
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . .117 5 Historic Buildings . . . . . . . . . .138
1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . .118 6 For Sports Fans . . . . . . . . . . .140
Great Toronto Vistas . . . . . . . .126 7 Markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141
Where to Eat When You’re 8 Parks,Gardens &
Going to . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Cemeteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141
2 More Museums . . . . . . . . . . .131 9 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .142
Pssst . . . Want in 10 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .144
on a Secret? . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
11 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .146
3 Exploring the Spas & the City . . . . . . . . . . .148
Neighborhoods . . . . . . . . . . .133
12 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .151
4 Architectural Highlights . . . . . .135
7 City Strolls 153
Walking Tour 1: Chinatown Walking Tour 3: The Financial
& Kensington Market . . . . . . . .153 District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
Walking Tour 2: Walking Tour 4: St. Lawrence
Harbourfront . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 & Downtown East . . . . . . . . .166
8 Shopping 171
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .171 The Best Bargains . . . . . . . . .180
2 Great Shopping Areas . . . . . . .171 Same Time Next Year . . . . . . .191
3 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .172
9 Toronto After Dark 196
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . .196 4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene . . . .214
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .206 5 Cinemas & Movie Houses . . . .215
3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .210 6 Coffeehouses . . . . . . . . . . . . .215
Cueing Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210 Sweet Treats: Toronto’s
Hotel Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213 Dessert Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . .216
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CONTENTS v
10 Side Trips from Toronto 218
1 Stratford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218 Niagara Parkway Commission
2 Niagara-on-the-Lake & Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240
Niagara Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 3 The Muskoka Lakes . . . . . . . .240
Touring Niagara-on-the-Lake Rest, Relax, Recharge . . . . . . .247
Wineries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228 4 Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
A Family Adventure . . . . . . . . .238
Appendix:Toronto in Depth 252
1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252 2 Toronto Today . . . . . . . . . . . .260
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252
Index 261
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .271
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List of Maps
Metropolitan Toronto 4 Walking Tour 2: Harbourfront 160
Underground Toronto 42 Walking Tour 3: The Financial
The TTC Subway System 47 District 163
Where to Stay in Downtown Walking Tour 4: St. Lawrence &
West 57 Downtown East 167
Where to Stay in Downtown Midtown Shopping: Bloor/
East 59 Yorkville 173
Where to Stay in Midtown & Downtown Shopping: Queen Street
Uptown 60 West & West Queen West 174
Where to Dine in Downtown 76 Downtown After Dark 198
Where to Dine in Midtown West & After Dark from Chinatown to
Uptown 78 Bloor Street 201
Where to Dine from Chinatown to Side Trips from Toronto 219
Bloor Street 81 Stratford 221
What to See & Do in Niagara-on-the-Lake 229
Downtown 120
Niagara Falls 239
What to See & Do in
The Muskoka Lakes Region 241
Midtown 122
Hamilton 249
Walking Tour 1: Chinatown &
Kensington Market 155
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Acknowledgments
Many, many thanks to my editor, Myka Carroll, whose talent, wit, and good sense made
working on this book a pleasure. Thanks are also owed to the rest of the Frommer’s team,
who worked their usual magic in transforming a manuscript into a book. I am also grate-
ful to my mother, Sheila Davidson, who is always ready to help and yet never makes me
feel guilty for taking advantage of her highly skilled—yet unpaid—labor. Finally, I owe a
heartfelt thanks to my husband, Dan, whose sense of humor and tireless enthusiasm car-
ried me throughout this project.
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Toronto 2004
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Canada
Frommer’s Montréal & Quebec City
Frommer’s Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island
Frommer’s Ottawa with Kids
Frommer’s Toronto with Kids
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
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What’s New in Toronto
T
oronto—or “Hollywood North,” as feat). The Hôtel Le Germain, 30
some wags would have it—is brim- Mercer St. (&866/345-9501), is the
ming with energy these days. Here’s a chic and glamorous offering from the
quick look at what’s happening now. Québec-based Groupe Germain. Both
offer top-notch service that will make
PLANNING YOUR TRIP While
you want to come back again and
there are some new discount airlines
again. See chapter 4 for full reviews.
flying into Toronto, such as WestJet
And good news for spa-lovers:
(www.westjet.ca) and JetsGo (www.
Some of the very best spas in the city
jetsgo.net), Air Canada (www.air
are located in hotels, such as the Vic-
canada.ca) is still the major player. It’s
toria Spa at the Crowne Plaza, the
Canada’s only national airline, and it
Stillwater Spaat the Park Hyatt, and
operates direct daily flights from most
the Elizabeth Milan Hotel Day Spa
major U.S. cities and from many
at the Fairmont Royal York. See “Spas
smaller ones. Air Canada’s response to
& the City” in chapter 6 for details.
the discount competition has been to
launch a new division called Tango WHERE TO DINE Foodies, take
(www.flytango.com). It’s a cheaper, note: 2003 was a banner year for
no-frills service that operates from restaurant openings in Toronto. My
Toronto’s Pearson International Air- personal favorite is Brassaii,461 King
port, but it only flies to Canadian St. W. (& 416/598-4730), a bistro
cities. that blends excellent food with fine
Speaking of the airport, there are service and a stunning setting—and
major changes afoot: The grand new its prices are quite reasonable.
terminal is almost complete, and Other new notables include
when it opens for business in late Xacutti, 503 College St. (& 416/
2003, it will replace the gloomy Ter- 323-3957), which is adding a dash of
minals 1 and 2. In the meantime, try Indian spice in Little Italy; Blowfish
to ignore the messy rerouting of traffic Restaurant & Sake Bar,668 King St.
at the airport. See “Orientation” in W. (&416/860-0606), for top-notch
chapter 3 for complete details on sushi; Wish,3 Charles St. E. (&416/
transportation from the airport to 935-0240), an inspiring little gem of
downtown Toronto. a bistro; the Colony Kitchen, 157
Bloor St. W. (& 416/591-9997), an
WHERE TO STAY Toronto’s fine
Asian-inspired restaurant located in—
selection of hotels has just gotten bet-
you won’t believe it—the basement
ter: Two gorgeous new boutique hotels
of Club Monaco’s flagship store;
opened for business in 2003. The
and Lolo, 619 Mount Pleasant Rd.
SoHo Metropolitan Hotel, 318
Wellington St. W. (& 800/668- (& 416/483-8933) a down-to-earth
bistro with heavenly food. See chapter
6600), is a serene spot that blends
5 for full reviews.
elegance and technology (not an easy