Frommer's Tahiti & French Polynesia

322 Pages·2008·5.34 MB·English

by  Bill Goodwin

Tahiti & French
Polynesia
2nd Edition
by Bill Goodwin
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KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS

Tahiti & French
Polynesia
2nd Edition
by Bill Goodwin
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
BOOKLIST
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price
ranges.”
GLAMOUR MAGAZINE
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
DES MOINES SUNDAY REGISTER
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel
for a place.”
KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
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Copyright © 2009 Text Copyright, Bill Goodwin.
ISBN 978-0-470-18988-7
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5 4 3 2 1
C O N T E N T S
LIST OF MAPS vii
WHAT’S NEW IN TAHITI & FRENCH POLYNESIA 1
1 THE BEST OF TAHITI & FRENCH POLYNESIA 4
1 The Most Beautiful Islands. . . . . . . . . .4 7 The Best Dining Experiences . . . . . .10
2 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 8 The Best Island Nights. . . . . . . . . . . . .11
3 The Best Honeymoon Resorts. . . . . .6 9 The Best Buys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
4 The Best Family Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . .8 10 The Best Diving & Snorkeling. . . . . .12
5 The Best Historical & 11 The Best Sailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Cultural Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 12 The Best Offbeat Travel
6 The Best of the Old South Seas. . . . .9 Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
2 TAHITI & FRENCH POLYNESIA IN DEPTH 14
1 French Polynesia Today . . . . . . . . . . .14 5 The Tahitian Language. . . . . . . . . . . .30
2 Looking at the Past of Tahiti & Sex & the Single Polynesian . . . . . . . . .31
French Polynesia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 6 Tahiti in Popular Culture:
Dateline. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Books, Film, Music & Dance . . . . . . .32
Sexy Skin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 A Most Indecent Song & Dance . . . . .35
3 The Lay of the Land & the Sea. . . . .26 7 Eating & Drinking in Tahiti &
4 The Islanders. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 French Polynesia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP 39
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 The CFP, the U.S. Dollar &
2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . .41 the British Pound. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
3 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 4 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
What Things Cost in Tahiti & “Tahiti Time” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
French Polynesia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 French Polynesia Calendar
of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
iv 5 Getting to Tahiti & 10 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
French Polynesia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
It’s Easy Being Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
Flying with Film & Video. . . . . . . . . . . . .54
11 Packages for the Independent
6 Getting Around Tahiti & Traveler. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
French Polynesia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57
Frommers.com: The Complete
Air Tahiti Fares & Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
Money-Saving Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57
12 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . .77
7 Seeing the Islands by
A 13 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
ESI Cruise Ship & Yacht . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 14 The Active Traveler. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
N 8 Health & Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
Y 15 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
L
O 9 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .67
P 16 Tips on Accommodations. . . . . . . . .83
H Be Careful in the Water . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
C
N
E
R
F 4 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 87
&
TI
HI 1 The Islands in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87 4 The Leeward Islands in 10 Days . . .93
A
T 2 The Grand Tour in 2 Weeks. . . . . . . .89 5 The Tuamotu & Marquesas
3 Tahiti & Moorea in 1 Week. . . . . . . . .91 Islands in 2 Weeks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
S 5 TAHITI 97
T
N
E
T 1 Arriving & Departing. . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 6 Golf, Hiking & Watersports. . . . . . . 121
N
O
C 2 Getting Around Tahiti . . . . . . . . . . . 100 7 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Fast Facts: Tahiti. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 Buying Your Black Pearl . . . . . . . . . . . .124
3 Tahiti’s Top Attractions . . . . . . . . . . 104 8 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Walking Tour: Papeete . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 9 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
4 The Circle Island Tour . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Dining with a Belle View . . . . . . . . . . .138
The Moon & 21 Million Pounds. . . . .118 Don’t Miss Les Roulottes. . . . . . . . . . . .140
5 Safari Expeditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 10 Island Nights on Tahiti. . . . . . . . . . . 140
Marlon’s Mana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
6 MOOREA 142
1 Getting Around Moorea. . . . . . . . . 142 4 Fishing, Golf, Watersports &
Fast Facts: Moorea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144 Other Outdoor Activities. . . . . . . . 152

2 Exploring Moorea: The Circle 5 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
Island Tour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 6 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
3 Safari Expeditions, The Bali Hai Boys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159
Lagoon Excursions &
7 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Dolphin-Watching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
8 Island Nights on Moorea. . . . . . . . 170
Tiki Theatre Village. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
7 HUAHINE 172 v
1 Getting Around Huahine. . . . . . . . 172 4 Watersports & Other
Fast Facts: Huahine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
2 Exploring Huahine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 5 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
3 Lagoon Excursions & 6 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Safari Expeditions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 7 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
T
8 RAIATEA & TAHAA 184 A
H
IT
1 Getting Around Raiatea & 4 Hiking, Sailing & Watersports. . . . 191 I &
Tahaa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 F
5 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 R
E
Fast Facts: Raiatea & Tahaa . . . . . . . .186 N
6 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 C
H
2 Exploring Raiatea & Tahaa. . . . . . . 187 7 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 P
O
3 Safari Expeditions & Lagoon L
Y
Excursions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 N
E
S
IA
9 BORA BORA 199
1 Arriving & Getting to Your 5 Scuba Diving, Snorkeling &
Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Other Watersports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 CO
N
2 Getting Around Bora Bora. . . . . . . 200 6 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 T
E
N
Fast Facts: Bora Bora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202 7 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 T
S
3 Exploring Bora Bora: 8 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
The Circle Island Tour . . . . . . . . . . . 203
9 Island Nights on Bora Bora . . . . . . 220
4 Safari Expeditions &
Lagoon Excursions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
10 MAUPITI 221
1 Getting Around Maupiti. . . . . . . . . 221 3 Hiking, Lagoon Excursions &
Fast Facts: Maupiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223 Snorkeling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
2 Exploring Maupiti. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 4 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
5 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
11 THE TUAMOTU ARCHIPELAGO 229
1 Rangiroa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 3 Manihi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
Fast Facts: Rangiroa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231 4 Fakarava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
2 Tikehau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239
vi
1 2 THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS 253
1 Introducing the Marquesas 3 Ua Huka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
Islands. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
4 Ua Pou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
Exploring the Marquesas
5 Hiva Oa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273
on the Aranui 3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256
Fast Facts: Hiva Oa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .274
2 Nuku Hiva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
6 Tahuata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
Fast Facts: Nuku Hiva . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260
A 7 Fatu Hiva. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
SI Rose Corser & Marquesan Art . . . . . .265
E
N
Y
L
O
P APPENDIX A: FAST FACTS TAHITI &
H
C FRENCH POLYNESIA 286
N
E
R
F
& APPENDIX B: USEFUL FRENCH TERMS & PHRASES 292
TI
HI
A 1 Basic French Vocabulary & 2 Food/Menu Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
T
Phrases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
INDEX 300
S
T
N
E
T
N
O
C
L I S T O F M A P S
History in Tahiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Huahine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173
French Polynesia & the Raiatea & Tahaa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
South Pacific . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Uturoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189
French Polynesia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Bora Bora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201
The Grand Tour in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . 90 Matira Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205
Tahiti & Moorea in 1 Week . . . . . . . . 92 Maupiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222
The Leeward Islands in 10 Days . . . 94 Northern Tuamotu
The Tuamotu & Marquesas Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231
Islands in 2 Weeks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Rangiroa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233
Tahiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Tikehau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241
Walking Tour: Papeete . . . . . . . . . . .108 Manihi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245
Tahiti Accommodations & Fakarava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247
Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127
The Marquesas Islands . . . . . . . . . .255
Papeete Accommodations &
Nuku Hiva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259
Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
Ua Huka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267
Moorea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147
Ua Pou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
Moorea Accommodations . . . . . . .157
Hiva Oa & Tahuata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .275
Moorea Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
Fatu Hiva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .285
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Bill Goodwin began his writing career as an award-winning newspaper reporter and
then served as legal counsel and speechwriter for two influential U.S. senators—Sam
Nunn of Georgia and the late Sam Ervin of North Carolina. In 1977 he and a friend
said goodbye to office life and sailed a 41-foot yacht from Annapolis, Maryland,
through the Panama Canal to the Marquesas Islands, the Tuamotu Archipelago, and
Tahiti. He left the boat in Papeete and, with girlfriend and backpack, explored Tahiti,
Moorea, and the Society Islands for as long as the local immigration authorities would
allow. He has returned for extended visits many times since, most devoted to research-
ing and writing Frommer’s South Pacific. He is also the author of Frommer’s Fiji and, at
home, Frommer’s Virginia. Find out more at www.billgoodwin.com.
DEDICATION
To my father,
with love and grateful thanks for supporting
my being a writer rather than a lawyer
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I owe a debt of gratitude to many individuals and organizations for their assistance, informa-
tion, and advice without which it would have been impossible to research and write this book.
You will become acquainted with many of them in these pages, and it will be your good for-
tune if you meet them in the islands.
I am particularly grateful to Dany Panero, Céline Teihotaata Vaini Roloux, Al Keahi, Jona-
than Reap, Carmen Estrada, and Leila Laille of Tahiti Tourisme, French Polynesia’s terrific
tourist information bureau.
My deep personal thanks go to Connie Haeder, Anne Simon, Curtis and Judy Moore,
Suzanne McIntosh, Nancy Monseaux, and Max Parrish, who have tended the home front
while I was away in the islands; to Bill and Donna Wilder, who introduced me to the intrica-
cies of Tahiti and who once loaned me their home on Moorea; and to my sister, Jean Goodwin
Santa Maria, who has consistently given much-needed moral support. I am truly blessed to
have these wonderful folks in my life.
—Bill Goodwin