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Frommer's Seville, Granada & the Best of Andalusia PDF

387 Pages·2005·6.518 MB·English
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01_57793x ffirs.qxd 3/30/05 11:53 PM Page i Seville, Granada & the Best of Andalusia 1st Edition by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_57793x ffirs.qxd 3/30/05 11:53 PM Page i 01_57793x ffirs.qxd 3/30/05 11:53 PM Page i Seville, Granada & the Best of Andalusia 1st Edition by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_57793x ffirs.qxd 3/30/05 11:53 PM Page ii About the Authors As a team of veteran travel writers, Darwin Porterand Danforth Princehave pro- duced numerous titles for Frommers, including bestselling guides to Italy, France, the Caribbean, England, and Germany. Porter, a former bureau chief of The Miami Herald,is also a Hollywood biographer; his most recent releases are Katharine the Great,a close-up of the private life of the late Katharine Hepburn, and Howard Hughes: Hell’s Angel.Prince was formerly employed by the Paris bureau of the New York Times,and today is president of Blood Moon Productions and other media- related firms. Published by: Wiley Publishing,Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per- mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-7793-2 ISBN-10: 0-7645-7793-X Editor: Margot Weiss Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson Cartographer: Nick Trotter Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Arched window at the Alhambra Back cover photo: Women in costume traveling by scooter to Seville’s Feria de Abril For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 02_57793x ftoc.qxd 3/30/05 11:49 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi 1 The Best of Seville,Granada & Andalusia 1 1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 5 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6 The Most Charming Towns . . . . .7 2 The Best Luxury Hotels . . . . . . . .2 7 The Best Architecture . . . . . . . . .8 3 The Best Paradors . . . . . . . . . . .4 8 The Best Gifts & Souvenirs . . . . .9 4 The Best Dining Experiences . . . .5 A Traveler’s Guide to Southern Spain’s Art 2 & Architecture 11 1 Art 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 2 Architecture 101 . . . . . . . . . . .14 3 Planning Your Trip to Southern Spain 20 1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .20 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Visitor Information & Entry Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .39 3 Entry Requirements & 11 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 12 Packages for the Independent 4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 The Euro, the U.S. Dollar, 13 Escorted General-Interest the British Pound& Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 the Canadian Dollar . . . . . . . . .27 14 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . .48 5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 15 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .30 Riding the Rails in Style . . . . . .54 6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .32 16 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .55 7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .33 17 Recommended Books . . . . . . . .56 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . .35 Fast Facts: Spain . . . . . . . . . . .57 9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .37 4 Settling into Seville 62 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .64 Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .71 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .64 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Fast Facts: Seville . . . . . . . . . . .66 02_57793x ftoc.qxd 3/30/05 11:49 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 5 What to See & Do in Seville 91 1 Sightseeing Suggestions for the 3 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .103 First-Timer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 4 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .104 2 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . .92 5 Staying Active . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Discovering Murillo: The Great 6 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .105 Painter of Sentiment . . . . . . . . .95 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 Hanging with Carmen in 8 Seville After Dark . . . . . . . . . .112 Old Seville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 9 Side Trips from Seville . . . . . . .118 Walking Tour: The Old City . . . .99 6 Córdoba 122 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 A Stately Pleasure Dome: Fast Facts: Córdoba . . . . . . . .125 The Moorish Versailles . . . . . .143 2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .126 5 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144 3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .133 6 Córdoba After Dark . . . . . . . .146 4 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .138 7 On the Way to Granada: Jaén,Baeza & Ubeda . . . . . . .148 7 Granada 165 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166 5 Exploring Granada . . . . . . . . .188 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .167 The Alhambra: Saving Time Fast Facts: Granada . . . . . . . .168 & Hassles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .169 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 Royal Burials, Royal Ironies . . .174 Shopping for Spanish Guitars . . .201 Cave Living near the 7 Granada After Dark . . . . . . . .202 Alhambra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177 The Gypsy Caves of 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .179 Sacromonte . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204 Tea, Chocolate-Dipped 8 Side Trips from Granada . . . . .207 Doughnuts & More . . . . . . . . .183 8 Ronda & the Pueblos Blancos/Sherry Triangle 214 1 Ronda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214 4 A Driving Tour of the Pueblos Fast Facts: Ronda . . . . . . . . . .216 Blancos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 Prehistoric Cave Paintings . . . .219 5 Jerez de la Frontera . . . . . . . .245 2 Mijas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226 6 El Puerto de Santa María . . . .254 3 Antequera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229 7 Sanlúcar del Barrameda . . . . .257 Fast Facts:Antequera . . . . . . .230 02_57793x ftoc.qxd 3/30/05 11:49 PM Page v CONTENTS v 9 Cádiz & the Costa de la Luz 260 1 Cádiz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260 2 Tarifa & Costa de la Luz . . . . .278 Fast Facts: Cádiz . . . . . . . . . .263 3 Huelva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .283 A Working-Class Restaurant 4 Side Trips from Huelva . . . . . .289 Row in Old Cádiz . . . . . . . . . .276 10 The Costa del Sol 294 1 Algeciras . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294 4 Puerto Banús . . . . . . . . . . . . .312 Teeing Off: A Golden Triangle 5 Marbella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .314 of Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .297 A Marbella Tasca Crawl . . . . .326 Beaches: The Good, the Bad 6 Fuengirola & Los Boliches . . . .327 & the Nude . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298 Highway of Death . . . . . . . . .328 2 Gibraltar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299 The Costa: An Ode to Cultural Conflicts in a British Lost Virginity . . . . . . . . . . . . .331 Colony . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302 7 Torremolinos . . . . . . . . . . . . .332 Fast Facts: Gibraltar . . . . . . . .302 8 Málaga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342 3 Estepona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308 9 Nerja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .351 Appendix:Southern Spain in Depth 356 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .356 Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .356 Index 361 General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .361 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .371 Accommodations Index . . . . . .368 02_57793x ftoc.qxd 3/30/05 11:49 PM Page vi List of Maps Andalusia 3 Side Trips from Granada 209 Seville Accommodations 68 Ronda 215 Seville Dining 82 Driving Tour: The Pueblos Seville Attractions 93 Blancos 235 Walking Tour: The Old City 101 Jerez de la Frontera 247 Seville Environs 119 Cádiz 261 Córdoba 128 Playa Victoria 263 Jaén 149 Huelva 285 Ubeda 159 The Costa del Sol 295 Granada Accommodations Gibraltar 301 & Dining 170 Marbella 315 Granada Attractions 190 Torremolinos 333 The Alhambra 193 Málaga 343 03_57793x flast.qxd 3/30/05 11:53 PM Page vii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Seville, Granada & the Best of Andalusia, 1st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Spain Frommer’s Barcelona, Madrid & Seville Frommer’s Spain’s Best-Loved Driving Tours Frommer’s Europe Frommer’s Road Atlas Europe 03_57793x flast.qxd 3/30/05 11:53 PM Page viii Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

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