Frommer's Seattle 2004

257 Pages·2004·6.164 MB·English

by  Karl Samson

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Seattle
2004
by Karl Samson
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
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About the Author
Karl Samsonmakes his home in the Northwest. He also covers the rest of Wash-
ington for Frommer’s. In addition, Karl is the author of Frommer’s Arizona.
Published by:
Wiley Publishing,Inc.
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Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
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trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-4127-7
ISSN 1045-9308
Editor: Christina Summers
Production Editor: Ian Skinnari
Cartographer: John Decamillis
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
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Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Seattle 1
1 The Best of Seattle 3
1 Frommer’s Favorite Seattle 2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 3 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
2 Planning Your Trip to Seattle 10
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .10 Frommers.com: The Complete
2 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .20
3 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 7 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . .21
Seattle Calendar of Events . . . . .12 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . .22
4 Travel Insurance, 8 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 9 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . .27
5 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .16 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . .27
6 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .19
3 For International Visitors 29
1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . . .29 Fast Facts: For the
2 Getting to the U.S. . . . . . . . . . .35 International Traveler . . . . . . . . .37
3 Getting Around the
United States . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
4 Getting to Know Seattle 42
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Driving a Bargain in Seattle . . . .52
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .45 Fast Facts: Seattle . . . . . . . . . . .53
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
5 Where to Stay in Seattle 56
1 The Waterfront . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 7 Lake Union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
2 Downtown & First Hill . . . . . . . .60 8 Capitol Hill & East Seattle . . . . .73
3 Belltown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .74
4 Pike Place Market . . . . . . . . . . .67 9 North Seattle (The University
5 Pioneer Square & the District) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
International District . . . . . . . . .68 10 Near Sea-Tac Airport . . . . . . . . .76
6 Queen Anne & Seattle Center . . .68 11 The Eastside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
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iv CONTENTS
6 Where to Dine in Seattle 79
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . .80 9 Capitol Hill & East Seattle . . . .102
2 The Waterfront . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 10 North Seattle (Including
3 Downtown & First Hill . . . . . . . .83 Fremont,Wallingford & the
University District) . . . . . . . . . .103
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . .87
11 West Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105
4 Belltown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
12 The Eastside (Including
5 Pike Place Market . . . . . . . . . . .92
Bellevue & Kirkland) . . . . . . . .106
6 Pioneer Square & the
13 Coffee,Tea,Bakeries &
International District . . . . . . . . .95
Pastry Shops . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106
7 Queen Anne & Seattle Center . . .96
14 Quick Bites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
8 Lake Union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
7 Exploring Seattle 111
1 On the Waterfront . . . . . . . . . .111 Fish Gotta Swim . . . . . . . . . . .129
2 Pike Place Market to 6 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .130
Pioneer Square . . . . . . . . . . . .114 7 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .131
Good Times in Bad Taste . . . . .115 Won’t You Let Me Take
3 Seattle Center & Lake You on a Sea Cruise? . . . . . . .134
Union Attractions . . . . . . . . . .117 8 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . .136
Space Needle Alternatives . . . .120 9 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .140
4 The Neighborhoods . . . . . . . . .122 10 Day Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
5 Parks & Public Gardens . . . . . .127
8 Strolling Around Seattle 143
Walking Tour 1: Pike Walking Tour 3: Fun,
Place Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143 Funky Fremont . . . . . . . . . . . .151
Walking Tour 2: The
Pioneer Square Area . . . . . . . .147
9 Seattle Shopping 154
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .154 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .155
10 Seattle After Dark 166
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . .166 3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . .174
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .171 4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene . . . . .176
So Who Needs Cirque 5 More Entertainment . . . . . . . .177
du Soleil, Anyway? . . . . . . . . .173 6 Only in Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . .177
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CONTENTS v
11 Side Trips from Seattle 179
1 The San Juan Islands . . . . . . . .179 7 The Woodinville
2 Port Townsend:A Restored Wine Country . . . . . . . . . . . . .216
Victorian Seaport . . . . . . . . . . .194 8 Kirkland:Art Galleries on
3 Olympic National Park Lake Washington . . . . . . . . . . .218
& Environs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199 9 Snohomish:Antiques
4 Mount Rainier . . . . . . . . . . . . .209 Capital of the Northwest . . . . .218
5 Ferry Excursions from Seattle . . .211 10 Tacoma’s New Museums . . . . .219
6 Snoqualmie Falls & 11 Mount St.Helens National
the Snoqualmie Valley . . . . . . .214 Volcanic Monument . . . . . . . . .220
Appendix A:Seattle in Depth 223
1 Seattle Past & Present . . . . . . .223 Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223
Appendix B:Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 227
Index 230
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .230 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .239
Accommodations Index . . . . . .238
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List of Maps
Greater Seattle Orientation 47 North: Queen Anne, Seattle Center,
Accommodations: The Waterfront, Capitol Hill, East Seattle &
Downtown, First Hill, Belltown, North Seattle 118
Pike Place Market, Pioneer Square Seattle Center 121
& the International District 58
Walking Tour: Pike Place Market
Accommodations: Seattle Center, 145
Lake Union, Capitol Hill & the
Walking Tour: Pioneer Square 149
“U” District 70
Walking Tour: Fremont 153
Dining: The Waterfront, Downtown,
Seattle Excursions 181
First Hill, Belltown, Pike Place
Market, Pioneer Square & the The San Juan Islands 183
International District 84 Mount Rainier National Park 211
Dining: Queen Anne/Seattle Center, Mount St. Helens National Volcanic
Lake Union, Capitol Hill & North Monument 221
Seattle 98
The Waterfront, Downtown,
First Hill, Belltown, Pike Place
Market, Pioneer Square &
the International District 113
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Seattle 2004
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Washington State
Seattle & Portland For Dummies
Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
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What’s New in Seattle
T
he only thing constant in the world DINING With the slow economic
of travel is change, and Seattle is no times, 25 of Seattle’s high-end restau-
exception. Despite slow economic rants have been joining together for a
times brought on by the dot-com month in the spring and again in the
crash, Seattle continues to be a vibrant fall to offer three-course prix fixe din-
vacation destination. Highlighted ners for $25. This “25 for $25” pro-
below are some of the most significant gram has been very popular, but
developments in the city this past year. unfortunately is not offered during the
ORIENTATION If you’re flying into busy summer months. However, if you
Sea-Tac International Airport (www. happen to be in town during the spring
seatac.org/seatac), expect to encounter or fall, check local papers for advertise-
construction. The central terminal is in ments for this program.
the midst of a major expansion that is If you have a weakness for pastries
expected to be completed sometime in and happen to find yourself in the Fre-
2005. Concourse A is being completely mont neighborhood, be sure to search
rebuilt and is scheduled to reopen in out The Essential Baking Company,
mid-2004. So, leave lots of time for 1604 N. 34th St. (&206/545-3804),
getting around the airport. Of course, a rustic bread bakery and pastry shop.
you were already planning on extra In the International District, don’t
time in the airport due to security miss the atmospheric Panama Hotel
measures, right? Oh yes, and if you’re Tea & Coffee House,607 S. Main St.
looking for a shuttle van or taxi, be sure (&206/515-4000), which is filled with
to head to the third floor of the park- historic photos and offers a fascinating
ing garage. If you’re looking for a glimpse into the neighborhood’s past.
Metro bus, you’ll find them outside the SIGHTSEEING The Seattle Aquar-
baggage claim area. ium, Pier 59, 1483 Alaskan Way
ACCOMMODATIONS The big (& 206/386-4300; www.seattle
news on the Seattle hotel scene is the aquarium.org), has added a new exhibit
opening of the new Seattle Marriott called Life of a Drifter,which focuses on
Waterfront, 2100 Alaskan Way jellyfish. The pulsing, diaphanous
(&800/228-9290 or 206/443-5000; moon jellies are fascinating to watch.
www.marriott.com), a luxury hotel There are also new tanks for the aquar-
right across the street from where ium’s giant octopus and its hideous
cruise ships bound for Alaska dock. wolf eels.
The WestCoast Vance Hotel, 620 Fans of contemporary art won’t want
Stewart St. (&800/325-4000or 206/ to miss the new James Turrell Skyspace
441-4200; www.westcoasthotels.com/ at the Henry Art Gallery, University of
vance), has long been one of our Washington, 15th Avenue NE and 41st
favorite budget downtown hotels. Street NE (& 206/543-2280; www.
However, an upcoming major renova- henryart.org). The little sky-viewing
tion will likely cause room rates to rise. room is a tranquil and mesmerizing