P O R T A B L E Hong Kong 2nd Edition by Beth Reiber A New Star-Rating System & Other Exciting News from Frommer’s! In our continuing effort to publish the savviest, most up-to-date, and most appealing travel guides available, we’ve added some great new features. Frommer’s guides now include a new star-rating system.Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction is rated from 0 to 3 stars to help you set priorities and organize your time. We’ve also added seven brand-new featuresthat point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that sepa- rate travelers from tourists. Throughout the guide, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids—advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—some great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers P O R T A B L E Hong Kong 2nd Edition by Beth Reiber Published by: WILEYPUBLISHING,INC. 909 Third Ave. New York, NY 10022 Copyright © 2003 Wiley Publishing, Inc., New York, New York. 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Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-6749-7 ISSN 1532-9933 Editor: Kendra L. Falkenstein Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: John Decamillis Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some con- tent that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 Contents List of Maps vii 1 Planning Your Trip to Hong Kong 1 1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Hong Kong Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 5 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 6 Tips for Travelers with Special Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 7 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 2 Getting to Know Hong Kong 20 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Fast Facts: Hong Kong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 3 Where to Stay 39 Choosing a Place to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 1 Very Expensive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 2 Expensive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 3 Moderate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 4 Inexpensive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 5 Rock-Bottom Accommodations (Guesthouses & Youth Hostels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 4 Where to Dine 74 1 Kowloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 2 Central District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87 3 Causeway Bay & Wan Chai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 4 Around Hong Kong Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 5 Exploring Hong Kong 106 1 Hong Kong’s Top Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 2 Museums & Galleries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 3 Temples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117 Life on the Water in Aberdeen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 4 Parks & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 5 An Amusement Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 6 Organized Tours & Cultural Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 7 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 9 Lantau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131 6 Shopping 135 1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135 A Shopping Warning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136 2 Great Shopping Areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 3 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 7 Hong KongAfter Dark 158 1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161 3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 4 Only in Hong Kong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170 Index 172 General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176 List of Maps Hong Kong Orientation 21 Causeway Bay & Wan Chai Kowloon Accommodations Dining 99 45 Kowloon Attractions 111 Central District Central District Attractions Accommodations 47 115 Causeway Bay &Wan Chai Attractions Elsewhere on Accommodations 51 Hong Kong Island 123 Kowloon Dining 77 Shopping in Tsim Sha Tsui Central District Dining 89 139 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I would like to thank some fine and very special people who graciously extended their help in the preparation of this book: Lillibeth Bishop, Diana Budiman, Elven Ho, and Mandy Lo of the Hong Kong Tourist Association; and Teresa Costa Gomes of the Macau Government Tourist Office. A special thanks goes to my sons, Matthias and Johannes, for putting up with my long absences ever since they can remember.