P O R T A B L E Amsterdam 2nd Edition by George McDonald A New Star-Rating System & Other Exciting News from Frommer’s! In our continuing effort to publish the savviest, most up-to-date, and most appealing travel guides available, we’ve added some great new features. Frommer’s guides now include a new star-rating system.Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction is rated from 0 to 3 stars to help you set priorities and organize your time. We’ve also added seven brand-new featuresthat point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that sepa- rate travelers from tourists. Throughout the guide, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids—advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—some great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers P O R T A B L E Amsterdam 2nd Edition by George McDonald Published by: WILEYPUBLISHING,INC. 909 Third Ave. New York, NY 10022 Copyright © 2003 Wiley Publishing, Inc., New York, New York. 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Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-6748-9 ISSN 1531-7595 Editor: John Vorwald Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some con- tent that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 Contents List of Maps vii 1 Planning Your Trip to Amsterdam 1 1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Amsterdam on the Web . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Destination: Amsterdam—Red Alert Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . .4 3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Amsterdam Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 5 Tips for Travelers with Special Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 6 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 2 Getting to Know Amsterdam 23 1 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Your Passport to Amsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Biking in Amsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Fast Facts: Amsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 3 Where to Stay 47 1 In the Old Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 2 Along the Canal Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 3 Around Leidseplein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 4 Around Rembrandtplein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 5 In the Jordaan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 6 Around Museumplein & Vondelpark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 7 In Amsterdam East . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 8 In Amsterdam South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 4 Where to Dine 76 Secrets of the Rijsttafel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 1 In the Old Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 In Search of Gezelligheid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 2 Along the Canal Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 3 Around Leidseplein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 4 Around Rembrandtplein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 5 In the Jordaan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 6 Around Museumplein & Vondelpark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 7 In Amsterdam East . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 8 In Amsterdam South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 9 In Amsterdam West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 10 In Amsterdam North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 5 Exploring Amsterdam 106 1 The Big Four . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 2 More Museums & Galleries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 A New Museumplein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 3 Historic Buildings & Monuments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 4 More Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 5 Green Amsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127 6 Offbeat & Alternative Amsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 7 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131 6 Shopping 134 1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 7 Amsterdam After Dark 152 1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153 2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156 3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159 Great Dutch Drinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162 Smoking Coffeeshops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 4 The Red Light District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166 Index 168 General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176 List of Maps Amsterdam Neighborhoods Central Amsterdam 30 Attractions 108 Central Amsterdam Museumplein Area & Accommodations 52 Amsterdam South Central Amsterdam Dining Attractions 112 80 To Ken Wilkie, Amsterdammer by inclination and enthusiast–editor, who first gave me the chance toliveandwork“below sea level.” ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I’d like to thank Terri J. Kester, whose knowledge of Amsterdam’s eating places is copious—and whose taste is pretty good, too. Also, Els Wamstecker, Press and Public Relations Officer from the always helpful Amsterdam Tourist Board.
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