Frommer's Philadelphia & the Amish Country (2007) (Frommer's Complete)

290 Pages·2007·4.01 MB·English

by  Lenora Dannelke

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Philadelphia &
the Amish
Country
14th Edition
by Lenora Dannelke & Lauren McCutcheon
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers

01_100486 ffirs.qxp 4/20/07 11:48 PM Page i
Philadelphia &
the Amish
Country
14th Edition
by Lenora Dannelke & Lauren McCutcheon
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_100486 ffirs.qxp 4/20/07 11:48 PM Page ii
Published by:
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
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Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2007 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No
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ISBN: 978-0-470-10048-6
Editor: Margot Weiss
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5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Philadelphia 1
1 The Best of Philadelphia 4
1 Frommer’s Favorite Philadelphia 2 The Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 3 The Best Restaurant Bets . . . . . . . . .10
2 Planning Your Trip to Philadelphia 14
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . . .35
Philadelphia Pre-Departure 10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Getting Through the Airport . . . . . . .37
2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .15 11 Packages for the Independent
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
What Things Cost in Philadelphia . . . .18 Ask before You Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 12 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .40
Philadelphia Calendar of Events . . . .19 13 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 14 Getting Around Philadelphia . . . . . . .41
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 15 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .42
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .26 16 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . . .32 Tips for Digital Travel
Frommers.com: The Complete Photography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 17 Recommended Books,
9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . . . . .33 Films & Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
3 Getting to Know Philadelphia 47
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .50
Ten Terms to Know in 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
Philadelphia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Fast Facts: Philadelphia . . . . . . . . . .57
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iv CONTENTS
4 Suggested Philadelphia Itineraries 61
by Lauren McCutcheon
1 The Best of Philadelphia in 1 Day . . . .61 3 The Best of Philadelphia
2 The Best of Philadelphia in 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
in 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
5 Where to Stay 68
by Lauren McCutcheon
1 East of Broad Street (Old City & 3 University City (West
Convention Center Area) . . . . . . . . .69 Philadelphia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
2 West of Broad Street . . . . . . . . . . . .76 4 Near the Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84
The Four Seasons’ Favorite Spots . . . .77 5 City Line & Northeast . . . . . . . . . . . .85
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .81 6 Hostels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
6 Where to Dine 87
by Lauren McCutcheon
1 Center City:East of Broad . . . . . . . .88 Bring Your Own . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Business Lunch: Meet & Eat 5 Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
or Grab & Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 6 Northern Liberties . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
2 Center City:West of Broad . . . . . . . .97 7 Manayunk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114
A Taste of Ethnic Philly: Reading 8 Local Favorites:Cheesesteaks,
Terminal Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 Roast Pork & Hoagies . . . . . . . . . . .115
Simple Pre-Theater Choices . . . . . .104 The Ultimate Cheesesteak
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . .105 Taste Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
3 South Street (South Philadelphia) . . .106 Indie Coffee Shops . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
4 University City (West
Philadelphia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
7 Exploring Philadelphia 121
by Lauren McCutcheon
1 Independence National Historical 3 More Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
Park:America’s Most Historic Mural, Mural, on the Wall . . . . . . .136
Square Mile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
Philadelphia’s Oddball
2 The Top Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
Ben Franklin Lives! An Interview
with Ralph Archbold . . . . . . . . . . . .132
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CONTENTS v
4 Parks,the Parkway & 6 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
Penn’s Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151 7 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
5 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156 8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162
Connect the Docs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
8 City Strolls 165
by Lauren McCutcheon
Walking Tour 1: Historic Highlights Society Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170
& Society Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165 Walking Tour 2: Old City . . . . . . . .172
Architectural ABCs . . . . . . . . . . . . .168
9 Shopping 175
by Lauren McCutcheon
1 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 2 Shopping Centers . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191
10 Philadelphia After Dark 193
by Lauren McCutcheon
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . .193 4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene . . . . . . . .215
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . .201 Dive Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216
3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208 5 Other Nighttime Entertainment . . . .217
Late-Night Eats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214
11 Side Trips from Philadelphia 219
by Lenora Dannelke
1 Bucks County & Nearby Where Washington Crossed
New Jersey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219 the Delaware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220
2 Exploring the Brandywine Valley . . .228
12 Lancaster County:The Amish Country 235
by Lenora Dannelke
1 Introducing the Pennsylvania 3 Exploring Amish Country . . . . . . . .241
Dutch Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . .241
2 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .239 The Bridges of Lancaster
A Note on Etiquette . . . . . . . . . . . .241 County . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244
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vi CONTENTS
4 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . .246 7 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254
5 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248 The Underground Railroad . . . . . . .255
6 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250 The Arts Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256
Appendix:Philadelphia in Depth 259
1 History 101:The Philadelphia A Portrait of the Philadelphians . . .261
Story . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259 2 A Historical Document . . . . . . . . . .263
Index 265
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .265 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .274
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .273
List of Maps
The Eastern Seaboard 7 Walking Tour: Old City 173
Philadelphia Neighborhoods 52 Philadelphia Shopping 182
The Best of Philadelphia in Philadelphia Bars, Clubs &
1, 2 & 3 Days 62 Lounges 202
Philadelphia Accommodations 70 Bucks County 221
Philadelphia Dining 90 The Brandywine Valley 229
Philadelphia Attractions 124 Lancaster & the Pennsylvania Dutch
Fairmount Park 153 Country 237
Walking Tour: Historic Highlights &
Society Hill 167
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About the Authors
Raised in the rural Pennsylvania Dutch community of Kutztown, Lenora Dannelkehas eaten
her fair share of shoofly pie, funnel cakes, and scrapple. She currently lives with her husband,
daughter, mother-in-law, and 20,000 books in the Historic District of Allentown. The family is
owned by a 90-pound adopted boxer. As a food and travel writer, she’s a regular contributor to
Backpacker, Chile Pepper, Visit Florida, Pennsylvania Wine-Spirits Quarterly, Philadelphia maga-
zine’sHome & Garden,Elegant Wedding,and many other magazines. Her Dining Out column
appears each month in Berks County Living.
Lauren McCutcheonwas born in, grew up outside of, and currently lives in Philadelphia. She
loves it here. She is the author of A Virgin’s Guide to Everything(Warner Books, 2005) and The
Right Way(David & Charles, 2006). She’s also an editor-at-large at Philadelphiamagazine, for-
mer restaurant critic for Philadelphia Weekly,and former editor for the Philadelphia site of www.
citysearch.com. In her spare time (ha!), she scouts and styles homes for Betters Homes & Gardens
magazines, contributes to Every Day with Rachael Ray,does yoga, travels, volunteers for The
Parkinson Council, and laments the prospect of casinos infecting her beloved city.
Acknowledgments
Thanks to the helpful, hospitable staff of the Delaware County Brandywine Conference and
Visitors Bureau in Chadds Ford. At the Pennsylvania Dutch Convention and Visitors Bureau in
Lancaster, I’d think to thank Cara O’Donnell in particular for her friendly, patient assistance and
expert guidance.
—Lenora Dannelke
Thanks to the Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corporation (GPTMC), especially
Donna Schorr, Caroline Bean, and Cathy McVey. Thanks, too, to all— Mickey, Nanny, Sisters,
Knitters, and Sally—who put up with my deadline-strapped self (not a pretty or gentle person).
Most of all, thanks to William Penn, who did a bang-up job of planning a city for brothers, sis-
ters, and more to love.
—Lauren McCutcheon
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and
more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information
with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-
tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Philadelphia & the Amish Country, 14th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,
all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s New York State
Great Escapes from New York City without Wheels
Frommer’s Maryland & Delaware
Frommer’s USA
Frommer’s Exploring America by RV