Frommer's Philadelphia & the Amish Country

292 Pages·2009·4.78 MB·English

by  Lauren McCutcheon

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Philadelphia
& the Amish Country
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Frommer’s. The best trips start here. &

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Experience a place the way the locals do.
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Enjoy the best it has to offer.

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■ Insider tips on Philadelphia dining, shopping, sightseeing, and m
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■ Outspoken opinions on what’s worth your time and what’s not. h
■ Exact prices, so you can plan the perfect trip whatever your budget. C
■ O ff-the-beaten-path experiences and undiscovered gems, plus new o
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US $16.99/ CAN $19.99/ UK £11.99 15th Edition
Front cover photo ©M. Timothy O'Keefe/Alamy Images
ISBN 978-0-470-43513-7
Back cover photo ©Bob Rowan/Progressive Image/Corbis
15th Edition
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Philadelphia & the
Amish Country
15th Edition
by Lauren McCutcheon & Lenora Dannelke
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ISBN 978-0-470-43513-7
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5 4 3 2 1
C O N T E N T S
LIST OF MAPS vi
WHAT’S NEW IN PHILADELPHIA 1
1 THE BEST OF PHILADELPHIA 4
1 Frommer’s Favorite Philadelphia 3 The Best Restaurant Bets. . . . . . . . . .10
Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
2 The Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
2 PHILADELPHIA IN DEPTH 14
1 Philadelphia Today. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 3 Public Art & Architecture. . . . . . . . . .21
How to Speak Like a Philadelphian: Public Displays of Art. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Ten Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 4 Philadelphia in Popular Culture. . . .23
2 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 5 Philadelphia Eats. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
A Curse Broken, A Curse Uttered. . . . .20
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO PHILADELPHIA 29
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 5 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Philadelphia Predeparture What Things Cost in Philadelphia. . .44
Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 6 Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
2 Entry Requirements. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .44
3 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 8 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Philadelphia Calendar of Events . . . .33 9 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
4 Getting There & Getting Around. . . .37 10 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
4 SUGGESTED PHILADELPHIA ITINERARIES 53
1 The Best of Philadelphia in 1 Day. . .53 3 The Best of Philadelphia in 3 Days. . .58
2 The Best of Philadelphia in 2 Days. . . .57 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . .59
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5 WHERE TO STAY 64
1 East of Broad Street (Old City & 3 University City
Convention Center Area). . . . . . . . . .65 (West Philadelphia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
2 West of Broad Street . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 4 Near the Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
The Four Seasons’ Favorite Spots. . . .73 5 City Line & Northeast . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
Best-Kept Secret of a B&B. . . . . . . . . . . .78 6 Hostels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
6 WHERE TO DINE 84
1 Center City: East of Broad . . . . . . . . .84 4 University City
Business Lunch: Meet & Eat or (West Philadelphia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
A Grab & Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 Bring Your Own . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
HI
P 2 Center City: West of Broad . . . . . . . .94 5 Chinatown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
L
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D A Taste of Ethnic Philly: Reading 6 Northern Liberties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
A
L Terminal Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 7 Manayunk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
HI
P Simple Pretheater Choices . . . . . . . . .102 8 Local Favorites: Cheesesteaks,
Family-Friendly Restaurants. . . . . . . .103 Roast Pork & Hoagies . . . . . . . . . . . 113
3 South Street & South The Ultimate Cheesesteak
S Philadelphia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Taste Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114
T
N Indie Coffee Shops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
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O
C 7 EXPLORING PHILADELPHIA 118
1 Independence National Historical 4 Parks, the Parkway &
Park: America’s Most Historic Penn’s Landing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Square Mile. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
5 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
2 The Top Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 6 Organized Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
3 More Attractions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 7 Outdoor Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
Mural, Mural, on the Wall . . . . . . . . . .131
8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Philadelphia’s Oddball Museums . . .140
8 CITY STROLLS 159
Walking Tour 1: Historic Society Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164
Highlights & Society Hill. . . . . . . . . . . .159 Walking Tour 2: Old City . . . . . . . . . . .165
Architectural ABCs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162
9 SHOPPING 169
1 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 2 Shopping Centers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
v
1 0 PHILADELPHIA AFTER DARK 187
1 The Performing Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene. . . . . . . . 208
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . 194 Dive Bars. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209
3 The Bar Scene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 5 Other Nighttime
Late-Night Eats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
1 1 SIDE TRIPS FROM PHILADELPHIA 213
1 Bucks County & Nearby 2 Exploring the Brandywine
New Jersey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Where Washington Crossed
the Delaware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 P
H
IL
1 2 LANCASTER COUNTY: THE AMISH COUNTRY 229 AD
E
L
1 Introducing the Pennsylvania 4 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 PH
Dutch Country. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 5 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 IA
2 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 6 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
A Note on Etiquette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235 7 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
3 Exploring Amish Country. . . . . . . . 235 The Underground Railroad. . . . . . . . .250 CO
N
Suggested Itineraries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 The Arts Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252 T
E
The Bridges of Lancaster County . . .238 NT
S
APPENDIX: FAST FACTS, TOLL-FREE NUMBERS &
WEBSITES 254
1 Fast Facts: Philadelphia. . . . . . . . . . 254 2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites . . 261
INDEX 265
General Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Restaurant Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
Accommodations Index. . . . . . . . . 274
L I S T O F M A P S
The Best of Philadelphia in Walking Tour: Old City . . . . . . . . . . .167
1, 2 & 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Philadelphia Shopping . . . . . . . . . .176
Philadelphia Neighborhoods . . . . . 60 Philadelphia Bars, Clubs &
Philadelphia Accommodations . . . . 66 Lounges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196
Philadelphia Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Bucks County . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215
Philadelphia Attractions . . . . . . . . .120 The Brandywine Valley . . . . . . . . . .223
Fairmount Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147 Lancaster & the Pennsylvania
Dutch Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231
Walking Tour: Historic Highlights &
Society Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Lauren McCutcheon was born in, grew up outside of, and currently lives in Philadelphia. She
loves it here. She is the author of A Virgin’s Guide to Everything (Warner Books, 2005) and The
Right Way (David & Charles, 2006). S he’s also an editor-at-large at Philadelphia magazine,
former restaurant critic for Philadelphia Weekly, and former editor for the Philadelphia site of
www.citysearch.com. She also scouts and styles homes for Better Homes and Gardens magazine,
contributes to Every Day with Rachael Ray, volunteers for The Parkinson Council, and laments
the prospect of casinos infecting her beloved city.
Lenora Dannelke was raised in the rural Pennsylvania Dutch community of Kutztown and
has eaten her fair share of shoofly pie, funnel cakes, and scrapple. She currently lives with her
husband, daughter, mother-in-law, and 20,000 books in the H istoric District of Allentown.
The family is owned by a 90-pound adopted boxer. As a food and travel writer, she’s a regular
contributor to Backpacker, Women’s Health, Chile Pepper, Visit Florida, Pennsylvania Wine-
Spirits Quarterly, and many other magazines.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Thanks to the Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corporation (GPTMC), especially
Donna Schorr, Caroline Bean, and Cathy McVey. Thanks, too, to all—Mickey, Nanny, Sisters,
Knitters, and Sally—who put up with my deadline-strapped self (not a pr etty or gentle per-
son). Most of all, thanks to William Penn, who did a bang-up job of planning a city for
brothers, sisters, and more to love.
—Lauren McCutcheon
Thanks to the helpful, hospitable staff of the Chester County Conference and Visitors Bureau
in West Chester, especially Nina Kelly. At the Pennsylvania Dutch Convention and Visitors
Bureau in Lancaster, I’d think to thank Joel Cliff in particular for his friendly, patient assis-
tance and expert guidance.
—Lenora Dannelke
AN INVITATION TO THE READER
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops,
and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the informa-
tion with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recom-
mendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Philadelphia & the Amish Country, 15th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
AN ADDITIONAL NOTE
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is espe-
cially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when
making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for
the experiences of r eaders while traveling. Your safety is impor tant to us, ho wever, so we
encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
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