Frommer's New Zealand

508 Pages·2004·4.853 MB·English

by  Adrienne Rewi

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New Zealand
3rd Edition
by Adrienne Rewi
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
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About the Author
Adrienne Rewiis a Christchurch-based freelance photojournalist who writes regu-
larly for more than 25 New Zealand and overseas publications, covering most sub-
ject areas. She is the author of three nonfiction book titles: Architects at Home: 30
New Zealand Architects in Their Own Homes; Fine Cheese: Gourmet Cheesemaking in
New Zealand; andPrivate Views: Interviews with 20 New Zealand Gardeners. Adri-
enne has also worked as a photojournalist in several Asian countries and is currently
working on a selection of short stories.
Published by:
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ISBN 0-7645-4292-3
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Contents
List of Maps vii
What’s New in New Zealand 1
1 The Best of New Zealand 4
1 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . .5 9 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . .11
2 The Best Active Vacations . . . . . . .6 10 The Best Maori Experiences . . . .12
3 The Best of Natural New 11 The Best B&Bs . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Zealand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
12 The Best Luxury
4 The Best Tramps . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . .13
5 The Best Offbeat Travel 13 The Best Moderately
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Priced Accommodations . . . . . . .14
6 The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 14 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . .15
7 The Best Drives . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 15 The Best Shopping . . . . . . . . . .16
8 The Best Gardens . . . . . . . . . . .10
2 Planning Your Trip to New Zealand 17
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .17 Frommers.com: The Complete
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .22 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
3 Entry Requirements & 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . .38
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . .40
4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 11 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
The New Zealand Dollar, Coping with Jet Lag . . . . . . . . .45
the U.S. Dollar & the 12 Package Deals & Escorted
British Pound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
13 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
New Zealand Calendar
14 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . .53
of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Start Packing! . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .30
15 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
16 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . .58
8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .33
17 Recommended Books & Films . . .61
9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .36
Fast Facts: New Zealand . . . . . .61
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iv CONTENTS
3 The Active Vacation Planner 65
1 Tramping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 5 Skiing & Snowboarding . . . . . . .78
Safety in the Great Outdoors . . .66 Sloping Off to Ski School . . . . . .79
2 Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 6 Bicycling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
3 Boating & Other Watersports . . .76 7 Other Guided Tours,
4 Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 Outfitters & Package Deals . . . . .82
4 Auckland 84
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 5 Exploring Auckland . . . . . . . . .115
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .90 6 Outdoor Activities &
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .125
Fast Facts:Auckland . . . . . . . . .93 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . .94 The Markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 8 Auckland After Dark . . . . . . . .130
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Placing Your Bets: A Night
at the Casino . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
A Cheap Feed at the
Food Halls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109 9 A Side Trip to Waiheke Island . . .133
5 Northland & Coromandel 139
1 Bay of Islands & the 2 Whangarei & Beyond . . . . . . . .153
Far North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139 Into the Deep Blue Sea . . . . . .155
Backpacker Paradise . . . . . . . .148 3 The Coromandel Peninsula . . . .157
6 Waikato & Bay of Plenty 167
1 Hamilton & the Waikato . . . . . .167 2 Tauranga & Bay of Plenty . . . . .174
Underworld Adventures . . . . . .171
7 Rotorua,Taupo & Tongariro National Park 180
1 Rotorua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180 2 Taupo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .183 3 Tongariro National Park . . . . . .211
Bubble, Bubble, Toil & Trouble:
The Geothermal Attractions . . .190
8 Gisborne & Hawkes Bay 217
1 Gisborne & the East Cape . . . .217 A Taste of the Wineries . . . . . .230
2 Hawkes Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .234
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CONTENTS v
9 Taranaki & Wanganui 240
1 New Plymouth:Gateway Dawson Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . .244
to Egmont National Park . . . . .240 2 Wanganui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247
10 Wellington 253
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .253 Wellington for Free . . . . . . . . .275
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . .258 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .277
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .259 6 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . .278
Fast Facts:Wellington . . . . . . .260 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .261 Shopping for Souvenirs . . . . . .281
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .266 8 Wellington After Dark . . . . . . .282
5 Exploring Wellington . . . . . . . .272 9 A Side Trip to Wairarapa . . . . . .284
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .272 For Antiques Hounds . . . . . . . .287
11 Marlborough & Nelson 291
1 Picton & Blenheim . . . . . . . . . .291 3 Abel Tasman National Park
Sleeping Among the Grapes . . .295 & Golden Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . .314
2 Nelson,Richmond &
Motueka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299
12 Christchurch & Canterbury 319
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .319 6 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . .346
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . .323 Taking to the Slopes . . . . . . . .349
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .324 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350
Fast Facts:Christchurch . . . . . .325 8 Christchurch After Dark . . . . . .352
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .326 Hedging Your Bets . . . . . . . . .353
Inner City Backpackers . . . . . . .328 9 Side Trips from Christchurch . . .353
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .332 On the Run . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .355
5 Exploring Christchurch . . . . . . .338 Hot & Steamy . . . . . . . . . . . . .358
Wine Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344 Marine Experiences in
An Unforgettable Train Trip . . .346 Kaikoura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .359
13 West Coast & the Glaciers 361
1 Westport & Karamea . . . . . . . .361 4 Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers . . . .377
2 Greymouth & Lake Brunner . . .368 Lake Matheson & Lake
3 Hokitika:Greenstone, Mapourika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380
Glowworms & Gold . . . . . . . . .373
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vi CONTENTS
14 Queenstown & Environs 385
1 Wanaka:Gateway to Mount Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .400
Aspiring National Park . . . . . . .385 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .401
2 Mount Cook . . . . . . . . . . . . . .394 4 Te Anau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .424
3 Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396 5 Milford Sound . . . . . . . . . . . . .431
Fast Facts:Queenstown . . . . . .399
15 Dunedin,Southland & Stewart Island 434
1 Dunedin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .434 2 Invercargill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .457
Fast Facts:Dunedin . . . . . . . . .439 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .460
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .439 3 Stewart Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .465
A Train Trip to Taieri Gorge . . .448 Making a Date with a Kiwi . . . .470
Appendix A:New Zealand in Depth 473
1 The Natural Environment . . . . .473 4 Maori Language & Culture . . . .478
2 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .474 Maori for Beginners . . . . . . . . .479
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .474 5 A Taste of New Zealand . . . . . .480
3 New Zealand Today . . . . . . . . .478 6 Wine,Wine & More Wine . . . . .480
Appendix B:A Glossary of Useful Terms 482
1 Kiwi/Yankee Terms . . . . . . . . . .482 2 Menu Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . .483
Index 485
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List of Maps
New Zealand at a Glance 18 Wellington 254
Greater Auckland 86 Marlborough, Nelson & Beyond
Central Auckland 96 292
Devonport 99 Central Nelson 301
Northland 141 Christchurch 320
Waikato & Bay of Plenty 169 West Coast 363
Rotorua & Environs 181 Central Queenstown 397
Greater Rotorua 185 Te Anau & Fiordland 425
Lake Taupo Region 203 Dunedin 436
Gisborne & Hawkes Bay 219 Southland 459
Taranaki & the River Region 241
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s New Zealand, 3rd Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Australia & New Zealand
Frommer’s Australia
Frommer’s Portable Australia’s Great Barrier Reef
Frommer’s Southeast Asia
Frommer’s South Pacific
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions