Frommer's Munich and the Bavarian Alps (Frommer's Complete)

260 Pages·2009·6.3 MB·English

by  Darwin Porter

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Munich
& the Bavarian Alps
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Frommer’s. The best trips start here.
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Experience a place the way the locals do.

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Enjoy the best it has to offer.
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■ The inside scoop on the best beer halls, walking tours, mountain
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villages, and Bavarian alpine skiing and hiking trails. r
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■ Outspoken opinions on what’s worth your time and what’s not. a
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■ Exact prices, so you can plan the perfect trip whatever your budget.

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■ O ff-the-beaten-path experiences and undiscovered gems, plus new
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takes on top attractions. p
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Find great deals, the latest travel news, trip ideas,
and more at Frommers.com
7th Edition
Front cover photo ©Mark Daffey/Lonely Planet Images US $16.99/ CAN $19.99/ UK £11.99
Back cover photo ©G. Schwabe/ARCO/AGE Fotostock, Inc. ISBN 978-0-470-39896-8
7th Edition
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Munich & the
Bavarian Alps
7th Edition
by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince
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—DES MOINES SUNDAY REGISTER
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for a place.”
—KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
Published by:
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ISBN 978-0-470-39896-8
Editor: Michael Kelly, with Naomi Kraus
Production Editor: Jonathan Scott
Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Munich Town Hall clock with mechanical figures.
Back cover photo: Hiking the path to the Nebelhorn in the Bavarian Alps.
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5 4 3 2 1
C O N T E N T S
LIST OF MAPS vi
WHAT’S NEW IN MUNICH & THE BAVARIAN ALPS 1
1 THE BEST OF MUNICH & THE BAVARIAN ALPS 4
1 Frommer’s Favorite Munich 6 The Best Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
7 The Most Charming Lake
2 Frommer’s Favorite Resorts & Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Bavarian Alps Experiences. . . . . . . . . .8
8 Best Hotel Bets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
3 The Best Museums. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
9 Best Restaurant Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
4 The Best Castles & Palaces. . . . . . . . . .9
10 The Best Beer Halls & Taverns. . . . . .15
5 The Best Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
2 MUNICH IN DEPTH 16
1 Munich Today. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 5 Munich in Popular Culture:
2 Looking Back at Munich. . . . . . . . . . .18 Books, Films & Music. . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
The Notorious Lola Montez . . . . . . . . .26 6 Eating & Drinking in Munich . . . . . .38
3 Munich Art & Architecture . . . . . . . .30 The Bavarian Brew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
4 The Lay of the Land. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO MUNICH & 42
THE BAVARIAN ALPS
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 5 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
2 Entry Requirements. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Foreign Currencies vs.
3 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 the U.S. Dollar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
Munich Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . .45 What Things Cost in Munich . . . . . . .55
4 Getting There & 6 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
Getting Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 7 Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
Getting Through the Airport . . . . . . . .48 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .57
iv Frommers.com: The Complete 11 Escorted General-Interest Tours. . .62
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59
12 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
9 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59
13 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
It’s Easy Being Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Online Traveler’s Toolbox. . . . . . . . . . . .65
10 Packages for the Independent
14 Tips on Accommodations. . . . . . . . .66
Traveler. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
S
P 4 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 69
L
A
N
A 1 Getting to Know Munich. . . . . . . . . .69 3 The Best of Munich in 2 Days. . . . . .78
RI
A Neighborhoods in Brief. . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 4 The Best of Munich in 3 Days. . . . . .79
V
A 2 The Best of Munich in 1 Day. . . . . . .74 5 The Best of Bavaria in 1 Week . . . . .79
B
E
H
& T 5 WHERE TO STAY IN MUNICH 83
H
NIC 1 Central Munich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 6 Untermenzing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
MU 2 Schwabing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 7 Obermenzing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
3 Olympiapark. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 8 Neuhausen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
4 Haidhausen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 9 Nymphenburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
S 5 Bogenhausen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 10 Near the Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
T
N
E
T 6 WHERE TO DINE IN MUNICH 104
N
O
C
1 Central Munich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 5 Denning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
2 Near the Isar, South 6 Nymphenburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
of the Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 7 Obermenzing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
3 Schwabing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 8 Cafes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
4 Bogenhausen/Prielhof . . . . . . . . . . 120 9 Beer Gardens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
7 EXPLORING MUNICH 126
1 Exploring the City Center . . . . . . . 126 6 The Olympic Grounds. . . . . . . . . . . 143
Saving on Sightseeing . . . . . . . . . . . . .127 7 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
2 Palaces & Major Museums. . . . . . . 127 8 Sightseeing Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
3 The Great Churches. . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 9 Activities & Outdoor Pursuits. . . . 146
4 More Attractions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Munich’s Soccer Craze. . . . . . . . . . . . . .147
5 Parks, Gardens & the Zoo. . . . . . . . 142
v
8 STROLLING IN MUNICH 149
Walking Tour 1: The Historic Walking Tour 3: Schwabing. . . . . . . .156
Center. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
Walking Tour 2: Exploring
West of Marienplatz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153
9 SHOPPING IN MUNICH 160 M
U
N
1 The Shopping Scene. . . . . . . . . . . . 160 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 IC
H
&
T
1 0 MUNICH AFTER DARK 167 H
E
B
1 The Performing Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 3 The Bar & Cafe Scene. . . . . . . . . . . . 171 AV
A
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . 169 4 Beer Halls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 R
IA
Wenches, Knaves & Medieval 5 Gay & Lesbian Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 N
A
Delicacies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171 L
P
S
1 1 SIDE TRIPS FROM MUNICH 176
1 Dachau Concentration Camp . . . 176 3 Tegernsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
C
O
Before Hitler, a Beloved 4 Ammersee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 N
Artists’ Colony. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178 5 Bad Tölz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 TE
N
2 Starnberger See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 6 Freising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 TS
1 2 THE BAVARIAN ALPS 191
1 Outdoors in the Bavarian Alps. . . 191 6 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. . . . . . . . . 209
2 Berchtesgaden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 7 Exploring the Alps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
3 Bad Reichenhall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 8 Oberammergau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
4 Chiemsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 9 Mittenwald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
The Fairy-Tale King . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204 10 Neuschwanstein &
5 Bad Wiessee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Hohenschwangau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
APPENDIX A: FAST FACTS, TOLL-FREE
NUMBERS & WEBSITES 230
1 Fast Facts: Munich. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites. . . 235
vi
APPENDIX B: USEFUL TERMS & PHRASES 237
1 Glossary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 2 Menu Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
INDEX 241
Accommodations Index. . . . . . . . . . . .247 Restaurant Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
S
P
L
A
N
A
RI
A
V
A
B
E
H L I S T O F M A P S
T
&
H
C
NI
U
M
Munich & the Bavarian Alps . . . . . . . . 5 The Residenz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135
Munich Neighborhoods . . . . . . . . . . 70 Nymphenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
S The Best of Munich in Walking Tour 1: The
T
N 1, 2 & 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Historic Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
E
T
N The Best of Bavaria in 1 Week . . . . . 81 Walking Tour 2: West
O
C Central Munich of Marienplatz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155
Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Walking Tour 3: Schwabing . . . . . .157
Central Munich Dining . . . . . . . . . . .106 Munich & Environs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177
Central Munich Attractions . . . . . .128 Garmisch-Partenkirchen . . . . . . . . .211
The Deutsches Museum . . . . . . . . .133 The Alps around Garmisch . . . . . . .217
AN INVITATION TO THE READER
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops,
and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the informa-
tion with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recom-
mendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Munich & the Bavarian Alps, 7th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
AN ADDITIONAL NOTE
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is espe-
cially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when
making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for
the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we
encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
As a team of veteran travel writers, Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince have produced dozens
of previous titles for Frommer’s, including guides to Europe, the Caribbean, Bermuda, the
Bahamas, and parts of America’s Deep South. A film critic, columnist, and radio broadcaster,
Porter is also a noted biographer of Hollywood celebrities, garnering critical acclaim for over-
views of the life and times of, among others, Marlon Brando, Katharine Hepburn, Howard
Hughes, and Michael Jackson. Prince was formerly employed by the Paris bureau of the New
York Times and is today the president of Blood Moon Productions and other media-related
firms. In 2008, Porter and Prince collaborated on the release of their newest book about
Hollywood, sexuality, and sin as filtered through 85 years of celebrity excess, Hollywood
Babylon—It’s Back!
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Germany
Frommer’s Austria
Germany For Dummies
Frommer’s Vienna & the Danube Valley
Frommer’s Germany’s Best-Loved Driving Tours
Frommer’s Europe
Europe For Dummies
FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,
service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and
regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and
budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recom-
mended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are
rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recom-
mended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Facts Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
FROMMERS.COM
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