Frommer's London from 90 a Day

321 Pages·2003·8.028 MB·English

by  Donald Olson

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London
from $90 a Day
9th Edition
by Donald Olson
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
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“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
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About the Author
Donald Olson is a novelist, playwright, and travel writer. His sixth novel, My
Three Husbands (written under the nom de plume Swan Adamson), was published
in 2003. Oregon Ghosts,his play based on Oregon’s legendary spirits, premiered in
Portland in 2003. His plays have also been produced in London, New York, Ams-
terdam, and Rotterdam. Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New
York Times, Travel & Leisure, Sunset,National Geographic guides, and many other
national publications. He is the author of London For Dummies, Germany For
Dummies,and England For Dummies,which won the 2002 Lowell Thomas Travel
Writing Award for “Best Guidebook”.
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Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in London 1
1 The Best of London from $90 a Day 5
1 Frommer’s Favorite 2 Best Hotel Bets on a Budget . . . .9
London Moments . . . . . . . . . . . .5 3 Best Dining Bets on a Budget . . .10
2 Planning an Affordable Trip to London 12
1 The $90-a-Day Premise . . . . . . .12 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .29
2 Fifty Money-Saving Tips . . . . . . .13 9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .32
3 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .19 Frommers.com: The Complete
4 Entry Requirements & Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . .34
5 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 11 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
The British Pound & the Make the Airline Pricing
U.S. Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 System Work for You . . . . . . . . .37
What Things Cost in London . . .23 12 Money-Saving Package Deals . . . .43
6 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 E-Package Deals . . . . . . . . . . . .44
London Calendar of Events . . . .24 13 Recommended Books & Films . . .44
7 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .28
3 Getting to Know London 47
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Fast Facts: London . . . . . . . . . .63
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .49 Telephone Dialing Info
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
Tube Tales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
4 Accommodations You Can Afford 69
1 How to Save on Sleeping . . . . . .70 8 Bloomsbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
2 Kensington & Chelsea . . . . . . . .71 9 Covent Garden,the Strand
3 Earl’s Court . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 & Holborn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
4 Notting Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 The Bargain Business . . . . . . . .101
5 Paddington & Bayswater . . . . . .84 10 Victoria & Westminster . . . . . . .103
6 Marylebone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 11 Just South of the River . . . . . . .107
7 Soho & Oxford Circus . . . . . . . .91 12 Near the Airport . . . . . . . . . . .108
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iv CONTENTS
5 Great Deals on Dining 110
1 How to Eat Without Sinful Soho: Dens of
Losing £s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 Delicious Iniquity . . . . . . . . . . .134
2 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . .111 10 Mayfair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136
3 Knightsbridge . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 11 Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia . . . . . .140
Moveable Feasts . . . . . . . . . . .117 Surf ’n’ Slurp @ the Best
4 Kensington & Chelsea . . . . . . .120 Internet Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
5 Earl’s Court . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 12 Covent Garden & the Strand . . .143
6 Notting Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 13 Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147
7 Paddington & Bayswater . . . . .127 14 The City & Clerkenwell . . . . . . .148
8 Marylebone . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 15 Just South of the River . . . . . . .150
Good Old-fashioned Pub 16 Farther Afield . . . . . . . . . . . . .152
Grub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 17 Best of the Budget Chains . . . .153
9 Soho & Chinatown . . . . . . . . .130 18 Afternoon Tea . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
6 Exploring London 156
1 How to Spend Less and See Backstage Tours . . . . . . . . . . .189
More . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157 6 Maritime & Waterfront Sights . . .190
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .157 7 At Home with History’s A-List . . .195
2 London’s Top Attractions . . . . .161 8 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .198
3 Churches,Cathedrals & 9 Parks & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . .200
a Cemetery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174
10 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .203
4 Memorials & Monuments . . . . .177
11 Staying Active . . . . . . . . . . . . .205
5 Lots More Sights to See . . . . . .180
12 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .206
See British Justice Done . . .
Allegedly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181
7 Shopping 210
1 Top Tips for Bargain Hounds . . .210 2 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .212
London’s Best Buys . . . . . . . . .212 3 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .213
8 London After Dark 229
1 Entertainment on a 5 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .242
Shoestring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230 6 Gay & Lesbian London . . . . . . .246
2 London’s Theater Scene . . . . . .232 7 The Drinking Game:Pubs &
3 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . .236 Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249
Performers in the Park . . . . . . .238 London’s Best Cocktails . . . . . .250
4 Major Arts Venues . . . . . . . . . .239
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CONTENTS v
9 Easy Excursions from London 252
1 How to Save on Day-Trippin’ . . .252 2 Windsor & Eton . . . . . . . . . . . .255
Calendar of Events for 3 Cambridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257
London Excursions . . . . . . . . . .253 4 Oxford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262
The Train Ticket Dictionary . . . .254
Appendix A:London in Depth 268
1 London Today . . . . . . . . . . . . .268 Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .270
2 A Look at the Past . . . . . . . . . .270 What’d Ya Say? . . . . . . . . . . .281
Appendix B:London’s Art & Architecture 284
1 Art 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284 2 Architecture 101 . . . . . . . . . . .287
Appendix C:Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 294
Index 296
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .296 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .306
Accommodations Index . . . . . .305
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List of Maps
Central London 6 Where to Dine in Soho &
Index of London Hotel Maps 72 Chinatown 131
Where to Stay from Knightsbridge to Where to Dine in the West End
Earl’s Court 74 138
Where to Stay from Marylebone to Where to Dine in the City & on the
Notting Hill 82 South Bank 149
Where to Stay in the West End 92 Central London Sights 158
Where to Stay in Victoria & Sights from Knightsbridge to Earl’s
Westminster 105 Court 163
Index of London Restaurant Maps Sights North of Hyde Park 179
112 Central London Theaters 233
Where to Dine from Knightsbridge Cambridge 259
to Earl’s Court 118
Oxford 263
Where to Dine from Marylebone to
Notting Hill 124
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s London from $90 a Day, 9th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s England from $75 a Day
Frommer’s London
Frommer’s Portable London
Frommer’s England
England For Dummies
London For Dummies
Best Day Trips from London
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
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What’s New in London
L
ondon continues to amaze, enchant, So go go go, because we’re here to
and provoke—which is why you tell you that London has never been
should get out of that boring stay-at- better. It’s in the midst of an urban
home mindset and visit the pulsating renaissance that has made it more liv-
capital of the U.K. as soon as possible. able and visitor-friendly than ever.
The pluses far outweigh any minuses, Londoners are as proud of their city
and the minuses can be turned to your as ever. And they have reason to be.
advantage. Ever since 1997, when Tony Blair’s
We’re saying all this because Ameri- New Labour party put an end to the
can tourists have been staying away Tories’ Thatcherite policies, people
from London, and for all the wrong everywhere have been hailing Britain’s
reasons. First it was the foot-and- capital as thehappening place. Call it
mouth scare. Then, after the Septem- a multi-ethnic semi-European cultural
ber 11, 2001 terrorist attacks, nobody epicenter. It’s got the hottest fashion
wanted to fly anywhere. Just when designers; the most mouthwateringly
tourism was picking up, America and inventive dining scene; the most excit-
Britain went to war with Iraq. Euro- ing theater, music, and dance; the
peans kept coming to London during greatest museums; an increasingly vis-
that period, but the city was devoid of ible art world; fabulous shopping; and
American accents. since it’s a Royal and celebrity hang-
So why should you break the stay- out, it’s a hotbed of gossip and scan-
at-home spell and visit London now? dal, all of which you can read about
Because on a purely practical level, every day in one of London’s many
there’s more breathing room, more newspapers and sleazy tabloids (for a
space, less hassle. London will always lowdown on some of the more recent
be a crowded city, but with fewer Royal scandals, see the appendix).
tourists you can now walk into any Below we’ve summarized some of
museum and get into even the most the newer events and experiences that
popular attractions without standing await you in London.
in long lines. Restaurants that once PLANNING YOUR TRIP One
required reservations weeks in advance new development that you might
now require only 1 or 2 days. Getting want to take note of is that the U.K.’s
a ticket for your favorite West End national tourism agency has changed
show is almost guaranteed. And hotels its name from the stern and rather for-
are practically begging for business: bidding British Tourist Authority to
many have lowered their rates and the snazzier and more forthright Vis-
offer amazingly cheap (for London) itBritain (www.visitbritain.com).
promotions. Airline fares are super- Not only that, it’s closed its walk-in
cheap, too, if you know how to shop offices in Chicago and Canada, so in
around (see “Getting There” in chap- North America everything now gets
ter 2 for more details). filtered through the New York office