Frommer's Istanbul

292 Pages·2008·8.674 MB·English

by  Lynn A. Levine

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Istanbul
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Frommer’s. The best trips start here.
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Experience a place the way the locals do.
Enjoy the best it has to offer.
■ Insider tips on Istanbul’s hidden architectural wonders, plus
comprehensive coverage of the city’s dining and nightlife scenes.
■ Outspoken opinions on what’s worth your time and what’s not.
■ Exact prices, so you can plan the perfect trip whatever your budget.
■ O ff-the-beaten-path experiences and undiscovered gems, plus new
takes on top attractions.
Find great deals and book your trip at Frommers.com
1st Edition
Front cover photo ©Andrew Gunners/Getty Images US $19.99/ CAN $21.99/ UK £13.99
Back cover photo ©Steve Allen/Getty Images ISBN 978-0-470-25708-1
1st Edition
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MUSEUM Mon Tues Wed Thurs Fri Sat Sun Admission (YTL)
Ayasofya Closed 9am–4:30pm 9am–4:30pm 9am–4:30pm 9am–4:30pm 9am–4:30pm 9am–4:30pm 10; additional 10 for upper gallery
Beylerbeyi Palace 9am–4pm 9am–4pm 9am–4pm 9am–4pm 9am–4pm 9am–4pm 9am–4pm 5
Binbirdirek Sarnıcı 9am–9pm 9am–9pm 9am–9pm 9am–9pm 9am–9pm 9am–9pm 9am–9pm 5
Dolmabahçe Palace Closed 9am–4pm 9am–4pm Closed 9am–4pm 9am–4pm 9am–4pm 10 for8 S ufoltra Hna’sr qemuarters;
Galata Tower Elevator 8:30am–8pm 8:30am–8pm 8:30am–8pm 8:30am–8pm 8:30am–8pm 8:30am–8pm 8:30am–8pm 8
Istanbul Archaeology Museum Closed 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 5
Istanbul Museum of Modern Art Closed 10am–6pm 10am–6pm 10am–8pm 10am–6pm 10am–6pm 10am–6pm 7; free Thursday
Jewish Museum of Turkey 10am–4pm 10am–4pm 10am–4pm 10am–4pm 10am–2pm 10am–2pm 10am–2pm By donation
Military Museum (Mehter Band 3 & 3:30) Closed Closed 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 1.50
Mosaic Museum Closed 9am–6:30pm 9am–6:30pm 9am–6:30pm 9am–6:30pm 9am–6:30pm 9am–6:30pm 5
Museum of the Ancient Orient Closed 9am–1pm 9am–1pm 9am–1pm 9am–1pm 9am–1pm 9am–1pm w/ArchAaedomloisgsyio Mnuseum
Museum of Calligraphy Closed 8:310–a4m:3–0npomon; 8:310–a4m:3–0npomon; 8:310–a4m:3–0npomon; 8:310–a4m:3–0npomon; 8:310–a4m:3–0npomon; Closed 3
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts Closed 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 5
Naval Museum Closed Closed 9am1:–3102–:53p0mpm; 9am1:–3102–:53p0mpm; 9am1:–3102–:53p0mpm; 9am1:–3102–:53p0mpm; 9am1:–3102–:53p0mpm; 3
Pera Museum Closed 10am–7pm 10am–7pm 10am–7pm 10am–7pm 10am–7pm Noon–6pm 7
Rahmi M. Koç Museum Closed 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 10am–7pm 10am–7pm 8; additional 4.50 for submarine
Rumeli Fortress Closed 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 4
Sabancı Museum Closed 10am–6pm 10am–6pm 10am–6pm 10am–6pm 11am–5pm 11am–5pm 10
Sadberk Hanım Museum 10am–5pm 10am–5pm Closed 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 6
St. Savior in Chora 9:30am–6:30pm 9:30am–6:30pm Closed 9:30am–6:30pm 9:30am–6:30pm 9:30am–6:30pm 9:30am–6:30pm 10
Topkapı Palace 9am–5pm Closed 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 9am–5pm 10a;d additdioitnioanl a1l0 1 f0o rf otrre haasruermy;
Vakıflar Halı Müzesi Closed 9a1m––4npomon; 9a1m––4npomon; 9a1m––4npomon; 9a1m––4npomon; 9a1m––4npomon; Closed Free
Yerebatan Cistern 9am–5:30pm 9am–5:30pm 9am–5:30pm 9am–5:30pm 9am–5:30pm 9am–5:30pm 9am–5:30pm 10
Yıldız Palace Closed 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 10am–5pm 4
01_257081-ffirs.qxp 6/17/08 3:43 PM Page i
Istanbul
1st Edition
by Lynn A. Levine
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_257081-ffirs.qxp 6/17/08 3:43 PM Page ii
About the Author
Lynn A. Levineis author of Frommer’s Turkeyand has contributed to a number of other
titles, including Frommer’s Italy from $90 a Dayand Frommer’s Southeast Asia.Her work
has appeared in the Boston Globe, Elle, MSNBC/Newsweek Budget Travel, Travel Holiday,
and the UN Chronicle.When not writing about travel, she is a communications consult-
ant for UNICEF, the United Nations Development Program, and the International Fund
for Animal Welfare. She also runs the website www.talkingturkey.com.
Published by:
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Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John
Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark
of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor
mentioned in this book.
ISBN: 978-0-470-25708-1
Editor: Melinda Quintero
Production Editor: Michael Brumitt
Cartographer: Andrew Murphy
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Inside the Blue Mosque.
Back cover photo: The Misir Çar@i@i(Egyptian Spice Market).
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5 4 3 2 1
02_257081-ftoc.qxp 6/17/08 3:42 PM Page iii
Contents
List of Maps vi
1 Best of Istanbul 1
1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 4 The Best One-of-a-Kind
Midnight Express:Fact or Fiction? . . .4 Places to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
2 The Best Museums,Mosques & 5 The Best Food Experiences . . . . . . . . .7
Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 The Best Turkey Websites . . . . . . . . . .8
3 The Best Things to Do for Free 6 The Best Stuff to Bring Home . . . . . . .9
(or Almost) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
2 Planning Your Trip to Istanbul 11
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 8 The Safe Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
2 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 9 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .25
3 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Important Tips for Women
Istanbul Calendar of Events . . . . . . .14 Travelers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Muslim Holy Month of Ramadan . . .15 10 Sustainable Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
4 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Frommers.com: The Complete
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
5 Money & Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
11 Staying Connected . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
What Things Cost in Istanbul . . . . . .21
12 Packages for the Independent
6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
7 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
3 Suggested Istanbul Itineraries 32
1 The Best of Istanbul in 1 Day . . . . . .32 3 The Best of Istanbul in 3 Days . . . . .37
2 The Best of Istanbul in 2 Days . . . . .36
4 Getting to Know Istanbul 39
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Take a Quick Cruise . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Istanbul’s Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .40 Don’t Let Taxi Drivers Take You
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 for a Ride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Transport Made Easy with 3 Etiquette & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
the Akbil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Fast Facts: Istanbul . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
02_257081-ftoc.qxp 6/17/08 3:42 PM Page iv
iv CONTENTS
5 Where to Stay 59
1 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 A Mystery Worthy of Agatha
2 Istanbul Accommodations . . . . . . . . .60 Christie Herself . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
3 Choosing a Neighborhood . . . . . . . .62 6 Where to Stay Along the
Bosphorus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
4 Where to Stay on the Historic
Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 7 Where to Stay on the Asian Side . . . .82
5 Where to Stay in Beyoglu . . . . . . . . .71 8 Where to Stay near the Airport . . . .83
6 Where to Dine 84
1 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 Eating Your Way Through the
2 Turkish Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Streets of Istanbul . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
A Restaurant Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . .87 5 Where to Dine in Beyoglu . . . . . . . . .98
3 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . .88 6 Where to Dine on the
Asian Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
4 Where to Dine on the Historic
Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90
7 Exploring Istanbul 111
1 Sights & Attractions by 6 Palaces of the Sultans . . . . . . . . . .148
Neighborhood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 Swift Boated Through the
2 The Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 Symplegades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
The Imperial Ottoman Mosque . . . .122 7 One If by Land;Two If by Sea:
3 Byzantine Sights (or Byzantium Constantinople’s Defensive Walls . . .152
Wasn’t Built in a Day) . . . . . . . . . .135 8 Istanbul’s Contemporary
700 Years of Turkish Jews . . . . . . .138 Art Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155
Sultanahmet’s Streets Paved 9 Eminönü . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
with Gold: The Great Palace . . . . . .139 10 Beyoglu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
4 Historic Hamams(Turkish Baths) . . . .141 11 The Asian Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172
Steam Heat: Taking the Hamam . . . .142 12 Special-Interest Sights . . . . . . . . . .174
5 Monumental Mosques & Tombs . . .144
8 Istanbul Strolls 176
Walking Tour 1: Galata . . . . . . . . .176 Walking Tour 3: From the Land
Walking Tour 2: Istanbul Walls to Balat & Fener . . . . . . . . . .186
Underground . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182
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CONTENTS v
9 Shopping 194
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .194 Deconstructing the Turkish
Caveat Emptor!Carpet-Buying Carpet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200
Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196 Tax-Free Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . .206
2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197
10 Istanbul After Dark 207
1 Taking in Turkish Nightlife . . . . . . . .207 2 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . .210
The Rhythm of the Night . . . . . . . .208 3 The Local Bar & Club Scene . . . . . .212
11 Side Trips from Istanbul 216
1 Bursa:Gateway to an Empire . . . . .216 2 Iznik & Nicaea:A Pilgrimage &
They Died with a Smile (or, That Some Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226
Joke’s a Killer) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223 3 The Princes’ Islands . . . . . . . . . . . .227
Water, Water Everywhere: 4 Polonezköy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
Turkey’s Mineral Springs . . . . . . . . .225
Appendix A:Istanbul in Depth 231
1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231 2 Architecture,Art,Music &
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252
Süleyman the Magnificent: 3 An Overview of Islam . . . . . . . . . . .257
Pragmatic Statesman . . . . . . . . . . .238 4 Recommended Books & Films . . . . .258
Roman & Byzantine Emperors . . . . .242
Appendix B:Useful Turkish Terms & Phrases 262
1 Pronunciation Guide . . . . . . . . . . . .261 3 Glossary of Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . .263
2 Basic Vocabulary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261 4 Menu Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266
Index 270
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .270 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .279
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List of Maps
Turkey 3 Exploring Istanbul 116
Istanbul in 1, 2 & 3 Days 34 Exploring the Historic Peninsula 119
Istanbul at a Glance 41 Grand Bazaar 121
Istanbul 42 TopkapiPalace 128
Where to Stay on the Historic Walking Tour 1: Galata 179
Peninsula 65 Walking Tour 2: Istanbul
Where to Stay in Beyoglu 73 Underground 183
Where to Dine on the Historic Walking Tour 3: From the Land Walls to
Peninsula 91 Balat & Fener 187
Where to Dine in Beyoglu 99 Bursa 217
Ayasofya 115 Byzantine Constantinople 233
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Acknowledgments
Special thanks are in order for a handful of incredibly wonderful and supportive individuals.
Thanks to Sirma, Sila, Aydin, Suha, Süleyman, and Hakan for their professional assistance and
personal friendship. Each has been instrumental in supporting me in my work on this guide and
in introducing me to the soul of Turkey. Warm thanks also go out to the people and the coun-
try of Turkey for exposing me to countless true friendships made during the course of working
in Turkey. Special thanks are in order for Melinda Quintero, my editor, for her astute edits and
tireless perfectionism, and for making us both look good.
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and
more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information
with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-
tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Istanbul, 1st Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,
all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Turkey, 5th Edition
03_257081-flast.qxp 6/17/08 3:43 PM Page viii
Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,
service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state, and regional
guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your
time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to
the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very
highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
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travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give
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