Frommer's irreverent guide to Chicago PDF
Preview Frommer's irreverent guide to Chicago
o g g u i d e t o c a i h C 5 t h E d i t i o n By Elizabeth Canning Blackwell other titles in the IRREVERENT GUIDE series Irreverent Amsterdam Irreverent Boston Irreverent Las Vegas Irreverent London Irreverent Los Angeles Irreverent Manhattan Irreverent New Orleans Irreverent Paris Irreverent San Francisco Irreverent Seattle & Portland Irreverent Vancouver Irreverent Walt Disney World® Irreverent Washington, D.C. Published by: Wiley Publishing,Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken,NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing,Inc.,Hoboken,New Jersey.All rights reserved.No part of this publication may be reproduced,stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recording,scanning or otherwise,except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act,without either the prior written permission of the Publisher,or autho- rization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center,222 Rosewood Drive,Danvers,MA 01923,978/750-8400,fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing,Inc.,10475 Crosspoint Blvd.,Indianapolis,IN 46256,317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355,E-Mail:[email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons,Inc.and/or its affiliates.Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trade- mark of Arthur Frommer.Used under license.All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.Wiley Publishing,Inc.is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-7304-7 Interior design contributed to by Marie Kristine Parial-Leonardo Editor:Kendra L.Falkenstein Production Editor:Ian Skinnari Cartographer:Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor:Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S.at 800/762-2974,outside the U.S.at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats.Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 Thanks to Lisa Lebowicz—I couldn’t have done this without you. About the Author Elizabeth Canning Blackwellbegan life on the East Coast,but 4 years at Northwestern University transformed her into a Midwesterner.She has worked as a writer and editor at Encyclopedia Britannica,Northwestern University Medical School,the Chicago Tribune,and North Shore,a lifestyle magazine for the Chicago suburbs.She also has written for national magazines on everything from planning the perfect wedding to fighting a duel.She lives just outside the city with her husband,daughter,and an extensive collection of long underwear. A Disclaimer Prices fluctuate in the course of time,and travel information changes under the impact of the varied and volatile factors that influence the travel industry.We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans.Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information throughout this book and the contents of this publication are believed correct at the time of printing.Nevertheless, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or for changes in details given in this guide or for the consequences of any reliance on the information provided by the same.Assessments of attractions and so forth are based upon the author’s own experience and therefore,descriptions given in this guide necessarily con- tain an element of opinion,which may not reflect the publisher’s opinion or dictate a reader’s own experience on another occasion.Readers are invited to write to the pub- lisher with ideas,comments,and suggestions for future editions. Your safety is important to us,however,so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.Keep a close eye on cameras,purses,and wallets,all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. C O N T E N T S INTRODUCTION 1 Maps Map 1 Chicago & Neighborhoods 6 YOU PROBABLY DIDN’T KNOW 7 Why do they call Chicago the Second City? (7) • Why do they call it the Windy City? (7) • What is “the Loop”? (8) • So why does the Loop seem so empty in the winter? (8) • What’s so magnificent about the Magnificent Mile? (8) • Does size really matter? (9) • Chicago in the movies,part 1—downtown (9)• Does Chicago really have more Polish people than anywhere save Warsaw? (9) • How can I sound like a real Chicagoan? (10) • Is Michael Jordan still a Chicago icon? (10) • Well, I brought my car—now where am I going to park it? (10) • Where can I hear music for free? (10) • Can I go to the opera and the symphony when I’m in town? (11) • What ifI gotta go? (11) 1 ACCOMMODATIONS 12 Basic Stuff 16 Winning the Reservations Game 17 Is There a Right Address? 18 The Lowdown 18 Big bucks de luxe (18) • Chicago classics (19) • A home away from home (20) • Best views (20) • Chicago in the movies,part 2—the neighborhoods (21)• Gold Coasters (21) • New kids on the block (22) • Ifeveryone else stays on Michigan Avenue,I don’t want to (22) • Style and substance (23) • Lobbies to die for (23) • Familyvalues (24) • For lovers and those who want to be (24) • Suite deals (25) • Mega-hotels for conventioneers (25) • Taking care ofbusiness (26) • Gym dandies (27) • Cheap sleeps (27) • Oh so near O’Hare (28) Maps Map 2 Chicago Accommodations 14 Map 3 Magnificent Mile & River North Accommodations 29 Map 4 The Loop Accommodations 30 The Index 31 An A to Z list ofplaces to stay,with vital statistics 2 DINING 44 Basic Stuff 48 Getting the Right Table 48 The Lowdown 48 Institutions (48) • See-and-be-scenes (49) • A Spot ofTea (50) • Deals on meals (under $25) (51) • Steak your life on it (51) • Discovering What’s New (52)• Decor to die for (52) • Ethnic eating (53) • Ifal fresco’s your style (54) • We never close—well,almost never (54) • Pizza Classics (55) • Chicago’s Pizza (55)• The Italian battal- ion (56) • French toast (56) • 6 Days aWeek (57)• Isn’t it romantic? (57) • Eating solo (58) • Noshing between galleries (58) • Near MagMile shopping (58) • Hot Dogs (59)• Morning glories (59) • Absolutely fabulous (60) • Kitchens Up Close (61)• Neighborhood favorites (61) • Offthe eaten track (61) • Chicago Treats (62)• The children’s hour (62) • Healthful eating (63) • Near the theaters (63) Maps Map 5 Chicago Dining 46 Map 6 Magnificent Mile & River North Dining 64 Map 7 The Loop Dining 65 The Index 66 An A to Z list ofplaces to dine,with vital statistics 3 DIVERSIONS 84 Basic Stuff 88 Getting your Bearings 88 The Lowdown 89 Must-sees (89) • Special moments (90) • Only in Chicago (90) • Get yer cheap art here! (91)• Prowling the Gold Coast (91) • Oprah in Person (92)• Museumscapes (92) • Museum Free Days (93)• Ethnic museums (94) • The City’s Architecture (95)• The wonders ofscience (95) • Talk is cheap (97) • Kid-pleasers (97) • Art al fresco (98) • Cruising the zoos (98) • Strolling around Old Town (99) • Insider Tips for Touring the Art Institute (100)• Gallery hopping (100) • T.G.I.F.in River North (101) • Mayhem on the trading floors (102) • One good read deserves another (102) • Cool views (103) • Photo Op (104)• Tried-and-true views (104) • Architectural masterpieces (104) • Master Builders:Sullivan,Wright & Mies (105)• Six buildings that scream “Chicago” (106) • Architecturally significant andthey scream “Chicago” (106) • The Wright stuff (107) • Home sweet historic home (108) • Blasts from the past (109) • Lincoln Parking (109) • Sky Train:Chicago’s El (110) • It’s a small world (110) • Up-and-comers (111) • You bowl me over (112) • School daze (113) • The best views in Lake View (114) • Rock Around the World (115)• Overhyped experiences (115) • Tour time (116) • Offthe beaten track (117) Maps Map 8 Chicago Diversions 86 Map 9 Magnificent Mile Diversions 118 Map 10 The Loop Diversions 119 Map 11 Hyde Park Diversions 120 The Index 121 An A to Z list ofdiversions,with vital statistics 4 GETTING OUTSIDE 130 The Lowdown 132 Parks (132) • A Few Good Men in Lincoln Park (134) • Mittless soft- ball (134) • Playing pick-up (134) • Hitting the beaches (135) • Ahoy there (136) • Can you canoe? (136) • Sightseeing afloat (136) • Pedal pushers (137) • Out on a swim (138) • Par for the course (138) • The tennis racket (139) • Rollerblade runner (139) • What’s nice on ice (139) • Run for your life (140) • The wind’s beneath my wings (140) • You sleigh me! (140) • Read all about it (141) 5 SHOPPING 142 Basic Stuff 146 Target Zones 146 Vertical Malls 147 Money Matters 148 Lunch on the Mag Mile 149 Hours ofBusiness 149 Sales Tax 149 The Lowdown 149 Landmarks (149) • For pampered service (150) • Accessorize (150) • Auction Action (151)• Shopping scenes (151) • For foot fetishists (151) • For men with Cary Grant complexes (152) • For men who would rather resemble Lou Reed (152) • Shopping bags to show off (152) • Fashion forward (153) • Key notes (153) • Kid stuff,part one (154) • Kid stuff,part two (154) • Book nooks (154) • Used but not abused books (154) • For decorating divas (155) • Furnishing touches (155) • The sporting life (155) • The vintage vantage point (156) • Damen Avenue—the other Michigan Avenue (156) • Why go to New York? (156) • Labels for less (157) • When you need a sugar fix (157) • Help for wanderlust (157) Maps Map 12 Chicago Shopping 144 Map 13 Magnificent Mile Shopping 158 Map 14 The Loop Shopping 159 The Index 160 An A to Z list ofplaces to shop,with vital statistics 6 NIGHTLIFE 172 Basic Stuff 176 Sources 176 Liquor Laws and Drinking Hours 177 The Lowdown 177 Where grown-ups can be grown-ups (177) • Calling all slackers (177) • Dance fever (178) • Where not to hear the blues (179) • Places to hear live rock (179) • Places to hear live blues (180) • Places to hear live jazz (180) • Sports and suds (181) • Where the boys (and girls) are (181) • Hotel hotspots in the Loop (182) • Neighborhood spots down- town and near North Side (182) • Neighborhood spots in Lincoln Park/Old Town (183) • Neighborhood spots in Lake View/Wrigleyville (183) • Neighborhood spots on the South Side (184) • For something a bit different (184) • For people who wouldn’t be caught dead drinking a Bud (184) Maps Map 15 Chicago Nightlife 174 Map 16 Magnificent Mile & River North Nightlife 185 Map 17 The Loop Nightlife 186 The Index 187 An A to Z list ofnightspots,with vital statistics 7 ENTERTAINMENT 196 Basic Stuff 200 Sources 200 Getting Tickets 201 The Lowdown 202 The theater establishment (202) • The new generation (203) • On thefringes (204) • Classical sounds (205) • Chicago in the movies, part3—The Suburbs (206)• What’s opera,doc? (206) • Men in tights (206) • In concert (207) • Comedy tonight (209) • The spoken word (209) • Da sports (210) Maps Map 18 Chicago Entertainment 198 Map 19 The Loop Entertainment 212 The Index 213 An A to Z list ofvenues,with vital statistics HOTLINES & OTHER BASICS 222 Airports (223) • Airport transport to downtown (223) • Babysitters (224) • Buses (224) • Business Hours (225) • Car rental (225) • Chicago Office ofTourism (225) • The Best Chicago Websites (226) • Chicago Park District (226) • Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) (226) • Children’s Emergency Services (226) • Convention centers (226) •Dentists (226) • Doctors (227) • El (227) • Emergencies (227) •Events hotlines (227) • Festivals and special events (227) • Finding an address (229) • Gay guys and lesbians (230) • Hearing-impaired services (231) • Hospitals (231) • Internet Access (231) • Laundry (231) • Liquor laws and drinking hours (231) • Newspapers and mag- azines (232) • Parking (232) • Museums for Less (233) • Pharmacies (233) • Post Office (233) • Pro sports (233) • Radio stations (234) •Restrooms (234) • Safety (234) • Subways (235) • Taxes (235) •Ticket to Ride (235) • Taxis (236) • Time Zone (236) • Trains (236) • Travelers with disabilities (236) • TV stations (236) • Visitor information (237) • Weather (237) •Chicago’s Average Temperatures & Precipitation (237) GENERAL INDEX 238 Accommodations Index 243 Restaurant Index 243
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