Frommer's Cuba

290 Pages·2004·6.225 MB·English

by  Eliot Greenspan, Neil E. Schlecht

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Cuba
2nd Edition
by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
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About the Authors
Eliot Greenspanis a poet, journalist, and travel writer who took his backpack and type-
writer the length of Mesoamerica before settling in Costa Rica in 1992. Since then, he has
worked steadily for the Tico Timesand other local media. He is also the author of Frommer’s
Costa Rica and Frommer’s Belize, as well as the chapter on Venezuela in Frommer’s South
America.
Neil E. Schlechtis the author and co-author of a dozen travel guides (including Spain
For Dummies, Frommer’s South America, andFrommer’s Peru), as well as articles on art and
culture and art catalogue essays, and is also a photographer. He now resides in north-
western Connecticut.
Published by:
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ISBN 0-7645-7433-7
Editor: Myka Carroll Del Barrio
Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson
Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: A bass player in Trinidad
Back cover photo: A family holiday at Varadero
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5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Cuba 1
1 The Best of Cuba 3
by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht
1 The Best Cuban 7 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Travel Experiences . . . . . . . . . . .3 8 The Best Casas Particulares . . . .10
2 The Best Historical Sights . . . . . .4 9 The Best Restaurants
3 The Best of Natural Cuba . . . . . .5 & Paladares . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
4 The Best Outdoor Adventures . . .6 10 The Best of Cuban Nightlife . . .12
5 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . .7 11 The Best of Cuba Online . . . . . .13
6 The Best Resort Hotels . . . . . . . .8
2 Planning Your Trip to Cuba 14
by Eliot Greenspan
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .14 9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .33
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .17 Frommers.com: The Complete
3 Entry Requirements Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .34
& Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Gifts & Other Assistance . . . . . .21 11 Escorted Tours,Package Deals
4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 & Special-Interest Vacations . . .36
5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 12 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .25 13 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .41
6 Insurance,Health & Safety . . . .27 14 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .30 15 The Active Vacation Planner . . .43
Race Relations in Cuba . . . . . . .31 16 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .45
8 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .32 17 Recommended Reading . . . . . .46
Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .33 Fast Facts:Cuba . . . . . . . . . . .47
3 Havana 52
by Eliot Greenspan
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
TheNeighborhoods in Brief . . . .55 5 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . .83
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .83
Fast Facts:Havana . . . . . . . . . .61 A Quick Key to Havana’s
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Parks & Plazas . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
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iv CONTENTS
Frommer’s Favorite Havana 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 8 Havana After Dark . . . . . . . . . .98
6 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . .92 9 Side Trips from Havana . . . . . .102
4 Viñales & Western Cuba 103
by Eliot Greenspan
1 Pinar del Río . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 4 Cayo Levisa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
Smoke ’Em If You Got ’Em . . .105 5 María la Gorda . . . . . . . . . . .118
2 Viñales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 6 Isla de la Juventud . . . . . . . . .119
3 Sierra del Rosario Biosphere 7 Cayo Largo del Sur . . . . . . . . .123
Reserve & San Diego
de los Baños . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
5 Varadero & Matanzas Province 126
by Eliot Greenspan
1 Matanzas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 3 The Zapata Peninsula &
2 Varadero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Playa Girón . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
The Bay of Pigs . . . . . . . . . . .144
6 Trinidad & Central Cuba 146
by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht
1 Santa Clara . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Beny Moré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
Che Guevara . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 3 Trinidad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
2 Cienfuegos . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153 4 Sancti Spíritus . . . . . . . . . . . .172
7 Camagüey & the Northeastern Coast 178
by Neil E. Schlecht
1 Cayo Coco & Cayo Papa & the Cayos . . . . . . . . . .181
Guillermo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178 A Stopover in Morón . . . . . . .183
A Bridge So Far . . . . . . . . . . .180 2 Camagüey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187
8 El Oriente 199
by Neil E. Schlecht
1 Guardalavaca . . . . . . . . . . . . .199 Dear Granma . . . . . . . . . . . . .215
2 Bayamo & the Sierra Goin’ (or Not) to Gitmo . . . . .219
Maestra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210 3 Baracoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220
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CONTENTS v
9 Santiago de Cuba 228
by Neil E. Schlecht
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229 5 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . .240
Santiago, City of Struggle & 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245
Rebellion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232 7 Santiago de Cuba
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .233 After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .246
Fast Facts:Santiago Carnival & Other Santiago
de Cuba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234 Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .235 8 Side Trips from Santiago
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .238 de Cuba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249
Appendix A:Cuba in Depth 253
by Neil E. Schlecht
1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .253 3 Cuban Culture . . . . . . . . . . . .262
2 Cuba Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258
Appendix B:Useful Spanish Terms & Phrases 266
1 Basic Words & Phrases . . . . . .266 3 Some Typically Cuban Words
2 More Useful Phrases . . . . . . . .267 & Phrases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268
Index 270
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List of Maps
The Regions in Brief 16 Cienfuegos 155
Havana at a Glance 53 Trinidad 161
La Habana Vieja & Centro Sancti Spíritus 173
Habana 56
Cayo Coco & Cayo Guillermo 179
Vedado 57
Camagüey 189
Playa 59
El Oriente 201
The Viñales Valley 109
Bayamo 213
Varadero 130
Baracoa 221
Santa Clara 147
Santiago de Cuba 230
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Acknowledgments
Eliot Greenspan would like to tip his hat and extend his thanks to Myka Carroll Del Barrio.
He’d also like to thank Emilie Walker for her dedicated and diligent help, and her overall
delightful demeanor.
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Cuba, 2nd Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Belize
Frommer’s Caribbean
Frommer’s Costa Rica
Frommer’s Mexico
Frommer’s Portable Dominican Republic
Frommer’s South America
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available.
At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions