Frommer's China

855 Pages·2003·26.437 MB·English

by  Peter Neville-Hadley, J. D. Brown, Josh Chin, Sharon Owyang, Beth Reiber, Michelle Sans, Graeme Smith

China
1st Edition
by Peter Neville-Hadley
and J. D. Brown, Josh Chin,
Sharon Owyang, Beth Reiber,
Michelle Sans and Graeme Smith
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ISBN 0-7645-6755-1
Editors: Peter Neville-Hadley, Lorraine Festa
With special thanks to Ann Feng
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5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Maps viii
1 The Best of China 1
compiled and edited by Peter Neville-Hadley
1 The Best China Experiences . . . . .1 8 The Best Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . .9
2 The Best Small Towns . . . . . . . . .3 9 The Best Up-and-Coming
3 The Best Countryside Trips . . . . .3 Destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
4 The Best Mansions & Palaces . . .5 10 The Best Local
Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . .10
5 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . .6
11 The Best Buys . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
6 The Best Temples . . . . . . . . . . . .7
12 The Best Chinese
7 The Best Markets . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
2 Planning Your Trip to China 14
by Peter Neville-Hadley
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .14 11 Packages for the Independent
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .17 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
3 Entry Requirements & 12 Escorted General-Interest
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 13 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . .48
China Calendar of Events . . . . .27 14 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .49
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Ten Rules for Taking Taxis
AroundTown . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .32
15 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .54
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .35
16 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .36
17 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .58
9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .37
18 Recommended Reading . . . . . .59
Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .38
Fast Facts: China . . . . . . . . . . .61
10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
3 Bêij∫ng,with Ti≈nj∫n & Hébêi 67
by Josh Chin and Peter Neville-Hadley
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .72 5 Exploring Bêij∫ng . . . . . . . . . . .97
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .73 The Big Makeover . . . . . . . . .101
Fast Facts: Bêij∫ng . . . . . . . . . .74 Walking Tour: The Back
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Airport Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 6 Side Trips from Bêij∫ng . . . . . .113
iv CONTENTS
On the Wild Wall . . . . . . . . . .114 10 Sh≈nhâigu≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121 11 Shíji≈zhu≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
8 Bêij∫ng After Dark . . . . . . . . . .124 Walking Tour: The Pagodas
9 Chéngdé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 ofZhèngdìng . . . . . . . . . . . .139
4 The Northeast 146
by Josh Chin
1 Shênyáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 4 Chángch∆n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167
Minorities & the Manchu 5 Jílín City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172
Myth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151 Wild China: Yánbi≈n . . . . . . . .174
Model Citizens? . . . . . . . . . . .155 6 Chángbái Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . .178
2 D≈nd∂ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156 7 Harbin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181
Border Crossing: North Korea 8 WûDà Liánchí . . . . . . . . . . . .190
& Russia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
9 Mânzh∂ulî . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191
3 Dàlián & Lhshùn . . . . . . . . . . .159
5 Along the Yellow River 195
by Michelle Sans
1 Dàtóng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 4 Yán’≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .217
2 Hohhot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202 5 Píngyáo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220
Walking Tour: Hohhot: Temple 6 Tàiyuán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224
toTemple . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
7 Wûtái Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228
3 Yínchu≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211
The (Nearly) Lost Dynasty
of the X∫Xià . . . . . . . . . . . . .212
6 The Silk Routes 234
by Graeme Smith
1 X∫’≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237 9 Ji≈yùgu≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
2 Huá Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .255 10 D∆nhuáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276
3 Ti≈nshuî . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257 11 Turpan (Tûlûf≈n) . . . . . . . . . . .282
4 Lánzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260 12 Ürümqi (W∆lûmùqí) . . . . . . . .288
5 Línxià . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .265 13 Kuqa (Kùch√) . . . . . . . . . . . . .294
6 Hézuò . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266 14 Kashgar (K≈shí) . . . . . . . . . . .298
7 Xiàhé (Labrang) . . . . . . . . . . .266 15 Tashkurgan (Tâshíkùêrg≈n) . . .306
8 Lángmù Sì (Taktsang 16 Khotan (Hétián) . . . . . . . . . . .307
Lhamo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269 Wild China: Y∫níng (Gulja) . . .310
CONTENTS v
7 Eastern Central China 313
by Sharon Owyang
1 Zhèngzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . .314 The Tàipíng Heavenly
Kingdom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .364
2 D√ngf√ng & S∂ng Sh≈n . . . . . .320
The Nánj∫ng Massacre . . . . . .368
3 Luòyáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .324
10 Yángzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .373
4 K≈if√ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .329
The Grand Canal . . . . . . . . . .374
K≈if√ng’s Jews . . . . . . . . . . . .332
Huáiyáng Cuisine . . . . . . . . . .378
5 Jì’nán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .334
11 Wúx∫,Tài Hú & Yíx∫ng . . . . . . .379
6 Tài Sh≈n & Tài’≈n . . . . . . . . . .337
Wild China: The Water Village
The Great Mountain . . . . . . . .338
ofTónglî . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .383
7 Q∆fû . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .343
Wild China: Xúzh∂u . . . . . . . .384
Confucius Says . . . . . . . . . . . .344
12 Héféi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .386
8 Q∫ngdâo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350
13 Huáng Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .388
Wild China: The Funeral Pits
14 Túnx∫ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .393
of Z∫bó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .358
Hu∫zh∂u Architecture . . . . . . .396
9 Nánj∫ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360
8 Shànghâi 399
by J. D. Brown
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .400 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .417
Neighborhoods 5 Exploring Shànghâi . . . . . . . . .423
in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .432
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .403 7 Shànghâi After Dark . . . . . . . .434
Fast Facts: Shànghâi . . . . . . . .404 8 S∆zh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .435
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .406 9 Hángzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .438
9 The Southeast 442
by Peter Neville-Hadley
1 Shàox∫ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .443 6 Wûyí Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .476
The Straight Story . . . . . . . . . .447 7 Quánzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .480
Honk if You Like 8 Xiàmén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .486
Calligraphy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .449 Wild China: The Earth Houses
Walking Tour: ∑nch≈ng ofYôngdìng . . . . . . . . . . . . . .496
GûZhèn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .450 9 Jîngdézhèn . . . . . . . . . . . . . .498
2 Níngb∂ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .455 10 Jiûji≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .502
3 Pûtuó Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .459 11 Guângzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . .505
4 W√nzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .463 12 Sh√nzhèn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .520
5 Fúzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .473
vi CONTENTS
10 Hong Kong 525
by Beth Reiber
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .525 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . .543
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .532 5 Exploring Hong Kong . . . . . . .550
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .533 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .556
Fast Facts: Hong Kong . . . . . .534 7 Hong Kong After Dark . . . . . . .560
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .536 8 A Side Trip to Macau . . . . . . .563
11 The Southwest:Mountains & Minorities 573
by Sharon Owyang
1 Nánníng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .576 The Burma Road . . . . . . . . . .630
2 Guìlín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .581 The Bái . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .632
3 Yángshuò . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .588 11 Lìji≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636
4 Lóngshèng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .595 The Nàx∫ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .640
5 S≈nji≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .597 12 Xi≈nggélîl≈(Zh∂ngdiàn) . . . . .648
6 Bêihâi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .598 The Search for Shangri-La? . . .649
7 Guìyáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .601 13 Bâosh≈n & Téngch∂ng . . . . . .652
8 Kâilî& the Miáo & Dòng Crossing into Myanmar . . . . . .658
Autonomous Prefecture . . . . .607 14 Jînghóng &
The Miáo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .608 X∫shu≈ngbânnà . . . . . . . . . . .658
The Dòng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .612 The Dâi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .659
9 K∆nmíng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .615 15 Jiànshuî . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .664
China’s Columbus . . . . . . . . .626 16 Hâinán Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .668
10 Dàlî . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .628
12 Yángzî& Beyond 673
by Michelle Sans
1 Chéngd∆ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .673 8 Dàzú (Dàzú Buddhist
Grottoes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .708
The Ways of Tea . . . . . . . . . .687
9 Middle Reaches of the
2 Éméi Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .688
Cháng Ji≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . .711
A Proper Visit to Éméi Sh≈n . . .689
10 Wûhàn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .716
3 Lè Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .691
11 Wûd≈ng Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . .723
4 Q∫ngchéng Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . .693
12 Chángsh≈ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .724
5 Wòlóng Nature Reserve
Máo’s Roots . . . . . . . . . . . . .728
(WòlóngZìrán Bâohù Q∆) . . . .695
13 Nán Yuè Héng Sh≈n . . . . . . . .730
6 Jiûzhài G∂u (Valley of Nine
Villages) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .697 14 Wûlíngyuán/Zh≈ngji≈Jiè . . . . .732
7 Chóngqìng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .700
CONTENTS vii
13 The Tibetan World 737
by Graeme Smith
1 X∫níng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .738 7 Shigatse (Rììk≈zé) . . . . . . . . . .767
Tsongkapa: Tibet’s First Where Is the Panchen
Catholic? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .743 Lama? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .768
2 Tóngrén (Repkong) . . . . . . . . .745 8 Gyantse (Ji≈ngz∫) . . . . . . . . . .770
3 Yùshù (Jyekundo) . . . . . . . . . .747 9 Sakya (Sàji≈) . . . . . . . . . . . . .772
4 Mâqìn (Dàw∆) . . . . . . . . . . . .750 10 Lhatse (L≈z∫) . . . . . . . . . . . . .773
The Panchen Lama’s Letter . . .751 11 Pelbar (Dìngrì) . . . . . . . . . . . .774
5 Golmud (Gé’êrmù) . . . . . . . . .753 12 Tingri (Lâo Dìngrì) . . . . . . . . . .775
Highway Robbery . . . . . . . . . .754 Everest Trekking . . . . . . . . . . .776
Railway on the Roof 13 Zh≈ngmù (Dram) . . . . . . . . . .776
of the World . . . . . . . . . . . . .755 Wild China: Mount Kailash
6 Lhasa (L≈sà) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .755 & Lake Manasarovar . . . . . . . .778
Appendix A:The Chinese Language 780
by Peter Neville-Hadley
1 A Guide to P∫ny∫n 3 Selected Destinations
Pronunciation . . . . . . . . . . . .782 by City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .788
2 Mandarin Bare Essentials . . . .783
Appendix B:The Chinese Menu 803
Index 818
List of Maps
Bêij∫ng, Ti≈nj∫n & Hébêi 69 Shànghâi Accommodations &
Bêij∫ng Accommodations, Dining Dining 408
&Nightlife 78 Shànghâi Attractions 424
Bêij∫ng Attractions 98 The Southeast 443
Walking Tour— Shàox∫ng 445
The Back Lakes 111 Pûtuó Sh≈n 461
Chéngdé 129 Tàishùn County 469
D∂ngbêi 147 Quánzh∂u 481
Shênyáng 148 Xiàmén 487
D≈nd∂ng 157 Guângzh∂u 506
Dàlián 161 K≈ipíng 515
Chángch∆n 168 Hong Kong 526
Jílín City 173 Kowloon 537
Harbin 183 Central Hong Kong 541
The Yellow River Region 197 Macau 565
Dàtóng 199 The Southwest Region 575
Hohhot 203 Nánníng 577
Yínchu≈n 213 Guìlín 583
Tàiyuán 225 Yángshuò 589
The Silk Routes 235 Guìyáng 603
X∫’≈n 238 K∆nmíng 616
Lánzh∂u 261 Dàlî 629
Ji≈yùgu≈n 273 πr H≈i Hú 636
D∆nhuáng 277 Lìji≈ng 637
Turpan 283 Téngch∂ng 655
Ürümqi 289 Jiànshuî 665
Kashgar 299 The YángzîRegion 674
Eastern Central China 315 Chéngd∆ 676
Zhèngzh∂u 317 Chóngqìng 701
K≈if√ng 331 Wûhàn 717
Tài Sh≈n 339 Chángsh≈ 725
Q∫ngdâo 351 Tibet 739
Nánj∫ng 361 X∫níng 741
Yángzh∂u 375 Lhasa 756
Huáng Sh≈n 389
About the Authors
Peter Neville-Hadley(development editor) is the author of the Cadogan Guides’ China:
The Silk Routes and Beijing and has also updated and edited various China titles for
Odyssey Guides. A Mandarin speaker and former resident of Beijing who has been to
almost every corner of China, he has written on the country for Time, The Sunday Times
(U.K.), the National Post (Canada), and numerous other magazines and newspapers in
Asia and North America. He moderates The Oriental-List, an Internet discussion list
dealing with travel in China, and can be reached at [email protected].
J. D. Brownhas lived and worked in China and has written about China as a literary
traveler, a travel writer, and a guidebook author. His work has appeared in such diverse
publications as the New York Times, the Washington Post, the Michigan Quarterly Review,
Islands, and National Geographic Traveler. He is also the author of Frommer’s Shanghai and
Frommer’s China: The 50 Most Memorable Trips. When he is not traveling in the Far East,
he lives in Eugene, Oregon.
Josh Chinlived in Beijing for 21⁄2years, during which time he worked as a freelance jour-
nalist and travel writer, and served as copy editor for the government-run China Daily.He
first visited China in 1991, and studied Mandarin at Peking University in 1998. He has
also lived in Utah, Maine, and Hong Kong. This is his first book for Frommer’s. He
would like to thank Susan and Yang Jingdong in Changchun, and Feng Hua, Corrie
Dosh, and Katie Benner in Beijing for their various forms of help.
Sharon Owyang,born in Singapore and a graduate of Harvard University, divides her
time between film and television projects in the U.S. and China, and freelance travel writ-
ing. She has written about Shanghai, China, Vietnam, and San Diego for Insight Guides,
Compact Guides, the Los Angeles Times,and several websites. When she’s not traveling,
she pays her dues in Los Angeles, California.
Beth Reiberworked for several years in Germany as a freelance travel writer writing for
major U.S. newspapers and in Tokyo as editor of the Far East Traveler. Now a freelance
travel writer residing in Lawrence, Kansas, with her two sons, she’s the author of several
Frommer’s guides including Frommer’s Japanand Frommer’s Tokyo, and is a contributor to
Frommer’s Europe from $70 a Dayand Frommer’s USA.
For the past 15 years, Michelle Sanshas studied, taught, and directed academic tours in
China. She speaks and reads Mandarin and holds a master’s degree in Chinese language
and classical literature.
Graeme Smithhas traveled through most of China’s backwaters over the last 15 years.
After almost selling his girlfriend to a truck driver for ¥20 ($2.50) he realized it was time
to learn the language properly, and spent 2 years pacing the corridors of Peking and
Tsinghua universities in search of enlightenment. He was lured away from the comforts
of academic life and a substantial contract with the South Coogee Wanderers Football
Club to join our team.