Frommer's Budapest day by day

194 Pages·2012·62.798 MB·English

by  Smyth, Robert

Fold Fold
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Budapest
day day
®
BY
2nd Edition
by Robert Smyth
Contents
15 Favorite Moments 1
1 The Best Full-Day Tours 5
The Best in One Day 6
The Best in Two Days 12
The Best in Three Days 16
2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 21
The Best Art Nouveau 22
The Best Baths 26
Turkish Traces 30
The Best Coffeehouses 34
Budapest with Kids 38
Revolutionary Budapest 40
Behind the Iron Curtain 44
3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 49
Belváros 50
The Jewish Quarter 54
The Watertown (Víziváros) 58
The Castle District 60
4 The Best Shopping 65
Shopping Best Bets 66
Budapest Shopping A to Z 71
5 The Best of the Outdoors 81
City Park 82
Buda Hills 86
Margitsziget (Margaret Island) 88
6 The Best Dining 91
Dining Best Bets 92
Budapest Dining A to Z 98
7 The Best Nightlife 109
Nightlife Best Bets 110
Budapest Nightlife A to Z 116
8 The Best Arts & Entertainment 125
Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 126
Arts & Entertainment A to Z 130
9 The Best Lodging 135
Lodging Best Bets 136
Budapest Lodging A to Z 140
10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 147
The Danube Bend 148
A Wine Country Detour 152
Lake Balaton 156
Pécs 158
Eger 160
The Savvy Traveler 163
Before You Go 164
Getting There 167
Getting Around 167
Fast Facts 168
Budapest: A Brief History 172
Useful Phrases & Menu Terms 173
Index 177
Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons Inc, The Atrium, Southern Gate,
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5 4 3 2 1
A Note from the Editorial Director
Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.
Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then
expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are
different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then
they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient
way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by
time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with
a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.
Hoping to tour the best in Budapest’s vibrant coffee and bath
house culture, engage with its eclectic architecture, burgeoning
restaurant scene and dynamic bar culture, or step back behind the
iron curtain. Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days
give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to
the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you
access those special moments that locals get to experience—
those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers.
The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one
complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and res-
taurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wild-
est nightlife—it’s all here.
Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors person-
ally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot
who say what they think and would never include places they
wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to
suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please
send your comments our way at [email protected], and
we’ll pass them on.
Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion
you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.
Warm regards,
Kelly Regan, Editorial Director
Frommer’s Travel Guides
vi
About the Author
Robert Smyth is a Budapest-based travel/wine writer who hails from the
faded seaside resort of New Brighton, directly across the River Mersey from
Liverpool, England. He has been living in Budapest for almost 18 years dur-
ing which time he’s seen certain aspects of the city change beyond recogni-
tion, but can still find enough old world and quirky charm to keep him there.
He holds a degree in Economics from the U.K., which he followed up with
an MBA at Budapest’s former Karl Marx University only to find that writing
holds more appeal than the world of business. He has written print and
online guides respectively for the Blue Guides and Whatsonwhen.com; he
also writes articles on wine tasting. He also still sometimes puts his qualifi-
cations to use in covering Hungary’s hairaising economic woes.
Acknowledgments
For my partner Ágnes Molnár, our son Alex, my mother Sylvia and late
father Robert James Smyth.
I’d like to give a big thanks to the people and city of Budapest for welcom-
ing me to my adopted home and sharing with me the Garden of Budapest
whose charms and appeal are growing by the year despite some tough
times economically.
It was a pleasure to work once again with the team at Frommers.
Many thanks to all of you who have accompanied me on the great adven-
ture that has been Budapest over the last two decades. From drinking in
dive bars or Kocsma to devouring fois grois in the finest restaurants, you’re
too many to mention but you know who you are.
Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked
for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating
system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated
on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to th=ree stars (exceptional). In addi-
tion to the star-rating system, we also use a icon to point out the best
bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restau-
rants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded
box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet P.
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
vii
Travel Resources at Frommers.com
Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website,
www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destina-
tions. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current
trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bar-
gains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com
members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read
blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.
Advisory & Disclaimer
Travel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we strongly
advise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, including
information on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommoda-
tions, shopping, and eating out. We also encourage you to stay alert while
traveling and to remain aware of your surroundings. Avoid civil disturbances,
and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets, and other valuables.
While we have endeavored to ensure that the information contained within
this guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, we make no
representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness
of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including
without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. We accept
no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for
any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs or expenses of any nature whatso-
ever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of any advice or information
contained in this guide.
The inclusion of a company, organization or website in this guide as a service
provider and/or potential source of further information does not mean that
we endorse them or the information they provide. Be aware that information
provided through some websites may be unreliable and can change without
notice. Neither the publisher or author shall be liable for any damages arising
herefrom.
How to Contact Us
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,
restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us
about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in
upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d
love to know that, too. Please e-mail: [email protected] or write to:
Frommer’s Budapest Day by Day, 2nd Edition
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774