Frommer's Beijing

252 Pages·2003·7.439 MB·English

by  Graeme Smith, Josh Chin, Peter Neville-Hadley

Bêij∫ng
3rd Edition
by Graeme Smith, Josh Chin &
Peter Neville-Hadley
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
Published by:
Wiley Publishing,Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys-
tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo-
copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107
or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written
permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate
per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers,
MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax [phone]. Requests to the Publisher for permis-
sion should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475
Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax [phone],
E-Mail: [email protected].
Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered
trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-3873-X
ISSN 1520-5568
Editor: Lisa Torrance Duffy
Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston
Cartographer: John Decamillis, Nicholas Trotter
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,
please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974,
outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax [phone].
Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that
appears in print may not be available in electronic formats.
Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Bêij∫ng 1
by Peter Neville-Hadley, Josh Chin, and Graeme Smith
1 The Best of Bêij∫ng 4
by Peter Neville-Hadley, Josh Chin, and Graeme Smith
1 Frommer’s Favorite 2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Bêij∫ng Experiences . . . . . . . . . . .4 3 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . .10
2 Planning Your Trip to Bêij∫ng 13
by Peter Neville-Hadley
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .13 8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .25
2 Entry Requirements 9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . .25
& Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . .26
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
What Things Cost in Bêij∫ng . . . .18 Flying for Less: Tips for
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Getting the Best Airfare . . . . . . .28
Bêij∫ng Calendar of Events . . . . .19 11 Packages for the
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Independent Traveler . . . . . . . . .29
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 12 Escorted General-
Interest Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .23
13 Recommended Books . . . . . . . .33
3 Getting to Know Bêij∫ng 35
by Peter Neville-Hadley
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Ten Tips for Taking
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .45 Taxis Around Town . . . . . . . . . .48
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Fast Facts: Bêij∫ng . . . . . . . . . . .52
4 Where to Stay 60
by Josh Chin, Graeme Smith, and Peter Neville-Hadley
1 Bêij∫ngCity Center,Around 4 Bêij∫ngSouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
Wángfûjîng Dàji√ . . . . . . . . . . .63 In the Red Lantern District . . . . .74
2 Back Lakes & D∂ng Chéng . . . . .67 5 Bêij∫ngWest & Hâidiàn . . . . . . .76
3 Cháoyáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Airport Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
iv CONTENTS
5 Where to Dine 78
by Josh Chin
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . .79 Chinese on the Cheap . . . . . . . .95
The Cuisines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Where to Buy Picnic Supplies . . .97
2 Bêij∫ngCity Center,Around Night Market Nosh . . . . . . . . . .99
Wángfûjîng Dàji√ . . . . . . . . . . .82 5 Bêij∫ngSouth . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
3 Back Lakes & D∂ng Chéng . . . . .85 6 Bêij∫ngWest & Hâidiàn . . . . . .101
4 Cháoyáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
6 Exploring Bêij∫ng 103
by Graeme Smith
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .118 6 Parks & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . .136
1 Ti≈n’≈n Mén Square 7 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
(Ti≈n’≈n Mén Guângchâng) . . .118
8 Former Residences &
2 Forbidden City (Gù G∂ng) . . . .121 Other Curiosities . . . . . . . . . . .140
Lucky Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . .125 9 Hútòng & Sìhéyuàn (Lanes
3 Temple of Heaven & Courtyard Compounds) . . . . .144
(Ti≈n Tán G∂ngyuán) . . . . . . . .126 10 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .145
4 Summer Palace (Yíhé Yuán) . . .128 11 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .146
5 Temples,Mosques 12 Staying Active . . . . . . . . . . . . .147
& Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131
7 Bêij∫ngStrolls 150
by Graeme Smith
Walking Tour 1: Walking Tour 3:
Liúlichâng & Dà Zhàlán . . . . . .150 Wángfûjîng Shopping Circle . . .158
Walking Tour 2:
Back Lakes Ramble . . . . . . . . .154
8 Shopping 163
by Graeme Smith
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .163 3 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .167
2 Markets & Bazaars . . . . . . . . .164 All the Tea in China . . . . . . . . .177
CONTENTS v
9 Bêij∫ngAfter Dark 179
by Josh Chin
1 Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . .179 5 Clubs & Discos . . . . . . . . . . . .185
2 Teahouse Theater . . . . . . . . . .182 Karaoke: Down that Drink
3 Cinemas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182 and Pop in Those Ear Plugs,
Ma, It’s Time to Sing . . . . . . . .186
4 Live Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182
6 Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186
Rainbow Sexuality
Under the Red Flag . . . . . . . . .183 7 Cafes & Other Drinks Spots . . .189
10 The Great Wall & Other Side Trips from Bêij∫ng 191
by Graeme Smith
1 The Great Wall (Wànlî 3 Eastern Q∫ng Tombs
Chángchéng) . . . . . . . . . . . . .191 (Q∫ng D∂ng Líng) . . . . . . . . . . .200
On the Wild Wall . . . . . . . . . .196 4 Western Q∫ng Tombs
J∫n Sh≈n Lîng to S∫mâtái . . . . . .198 (Q∫ng X∫Líng) . . . . . . . . . . . . .201
2 Míng Tombs (Shís≈n Líng) . . . .199 5 Tánzhè Sì & Jiètái Sì . . . . . . . .203
6 Chu≈n DîXià . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
Appendix A:Bêij∫ng in Depth 206
by Peter Neville-Hadley and Josh Chin
1 Bêij∫ngToday . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 3 Film & Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 4 The Bêij∫ng Menu . . . . . . . . . .220
2 Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213
Appendix B:The Chinese Language 225
by Peter Neville-Hadley
1 A Guide to P∫ny∫n 2 Mandarin Bare Essentials . . . . .228
Pronunciation . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
Index 234
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .234 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .242
Accommodations Index . . . . . .241
List of Maps
China 6 Temple of Heaven 127
Bêij∫ng 36 Summer Palace 129
Bêij∫ng Orientation 43 Walking Tour 1: Liúlichâng and
Bêij∫ng Metro 47 Dà Zhàlán 151
Bêij∫ng City Center 104 Walking Tour 2: Back Lakes
Ramble 155
Bêij∫ng South 108
Walking Tour 3: Wángfûjîng
Bêij∫ng West & Hâidiàn 112
Shopping Circle 159
Cháoyáng 115
Side Trips from Bêij∫ng 192
Ti≈n’≈n Mén Square 119
About the Authors
Graeme Smithspent 2 years pacing the corridors of Peking and Tsinghua universities in
search of enlightenment. He was lured away from the comforts of academic life to con-
tribute to Frommer’s China,1st Edition, and then wrote most of what is a brand-new
Frommer’s Beij∫ng, 3rd Edition, from his base in a traditional courtyard house. This was
bulldozed in mid-production, giving him first-hand experience of Bêij∫ng’s rapid redevel-
opment. He sat out SARS, waiting for the city to reopen so this book could be completed,
and has now taken up a research position at the Contemporary China Centre of the Aus-
tralian National University.
Josh Chinhas just left Bêij∫ng after 21⁄2years spent as a freelance journalist and travel writer,
and as copyeditor for the government-run China Daily, having earlier studied Mandarin at
Peking University. He contributed the Bêij∫ng and Northeast chapters to Frommer’s China,
1st Edition. Time otherwise ill-spent in bars, clubs, music venues, and cinemas, has led to
a particularly well-researched After Dark chapter for Frommer’s Beij∫ng,3rd Edition, as well
as appendix entries on film and music, and substantial contributions to the dining and
accommodations chapters. He can be contacted through www.chinfamous.com.
Peter Neville-Hadley,development editor of Frommer’s China,1st Edition, also supervised
this book, wrote the practical chapters, half the appendix entries, the language section, and
contributed to most of the other chapters. A former resident of Bêij∫ng, he’s the author of
Cadogan Guides’ China: The Silk Routesand Beij∫ng,and has written on China for Time,
The Sunday Times (U.K.), the National Post (Canada), and many others. He’s now work-
ing on an account of travel around China’s treaty ports for publication in 2005. He mod-
erates The Oriental-List, an Internet discussion list dealing with travel in China (see
www.neville-hadley.com) and can be reached at [email protected].
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Beij∫ng, 3rd Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s China
Frommer’s China: The 50 Most Memorable Trips
Frommer’s Hong Kong, Beijing & Shanghai
Frommer’s Hong Kong
Frommer’s Shanghai
Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions